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West Face Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Warning

Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Mark Gamble Richard Pattison Jake Forker Nick Laurence Terry Svingen Dirk Nouvel

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. West Face 4 routes in Area

Summary:
G
F
M
A
M
G
L
A
S
O
N
D

Stagionalità

Tutti Arrampicata trad

Lat / Long: -26.927359, 152.945189

limitazioni per l'accesso

Most 'Glasshouse Mountains' climbing is within the Glass House Mountains National Park. Please respect the environment and other people's enjoyment of it. Access to climbing here is a privilege, not a right.

The 2019 Ngungun track expansion & fortification work is now complete, and the mountain is once again fully open.

ereditato da Glasshouse Mountains

etica

Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.

Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!

New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.

ereditato da Glasshouse Mountains
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Felp 10 Trad 200m
2 Felp II

FA: 2004

13 Trad 300m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
3 West Track (Tourist Track)

Tourist Track. Slippery and well worn. From the carpark, follow the NP signage:

up the increasingly steep track, to the intimidating start (colloquially called "Chicken Rock", because many day-trippers choose to turn back at this point). In the V groove, top left corner, the steep start is about a grade 5 or 6 and access here is slightly overhanging:

but an easier start can be found down right, about 15m right of a large tree:

up the sloping face, on good holds, about grade 3. Once this hurdle has been overcome, the remainder of the climbing then becomes an easy scramble at about grade 0-2, to the summit.

3 Trad 340m
4 Microtome

The first known technical route on the south west corner of Tibro. This corner is bisected by a scrubby ramp that traverses diagonally up from right to left, starting under a vertical section of the cliff on the south face proper. Below this ramp, a buttress comprised of relatively clean and smooth slabs can be found, and this route takes a direct line up those slabs to end on the scrubby ramp. To find the start of the route, take the usual access track to Slider gully and bushbash around the base of the mountain. Alternatively, it is fairly easy to follow the Trachyte Circuit around the mountain until a low point on the trail with an abundance of ferns. The buttress can vaguely be seen through the shrubbery, so make a beeline through moderately dense bush to the base of the wall.

  1. Up an easy, low-angled slab with abundant lichen but no gear. Tree belay.

  2. Up steeper, cleaner terrain with quite decent protection. Belay from a large horizontal crack.

  3. Terrain continues to steepen and gear becomes poor and sparse when it matters most. A small overlap is surmounted near the top of the pitch, after which some loose rock must be navigated to reach the ramp above.

Descent: One can scramble down to the right, although it is quite vegetated. A faint path also leads up and left, eventually connecting with the Tourist Track and a short descent to ground level.

FA: 1973

14 Trad 100m, 3

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
3 West Track (Tourist Track) Trad 340m
10 Felp Trad 200m
13 Felp II Trad 300m
14 Microtome Trad 100m, 3
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