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Vie come trad in Band Of Gypsies

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Tutti 37 vie visualizzati.

Grado Via Stile equipaggiamento Popolarità
13 Over The Top

Bridge trench to steep finish.

Start: Scramble into belay niche behind pinnacle.

FA: . Michael Hampton & Geoff Butcher, 2005

Trad 25m
13 Heavy Milk, Light Beer

Easy crack left of "Bulldozer In The Background".

FA: Geoff Butcher & Michael Hampton, 2005

Trad 17m
17 The Upside of Anger

Move onto bollard, arrange gear and up to FH. Straight up diagonal seams. Start: Start as for "Heavy Milk, Light Beer"

FA: Geoff Butcher & Michael Hampton, 2005

Trad mista 18m, 1
10 Bulldozer In The Background

Crack in left wall of chimney until crack ends. Chimney, or face climb arête, then exit onto left wall, finishing steeply under branch of gum tree.

Start: Start at chimney left of buttress left of "Queen of Der".

FA: Geoff Butcher & Michael Hampton, 2005

Trad 20m
27 Grand Oral Disseminator

Watch out for skating cams and feet on the slick rock.

FA: Malcolm Matheson & Adam Demmert, 2005

Trad mista 25m, 1
21 Private Parts

Major crack system around left of "Grand Oral Disseminator", behind boulder.

FA: Michael Hampton & Geoff Butcher, 2005

Trad 26m
21 Squeezed Out

Off-width corner/crack 5m L of "Private Parts". Take several #5 cams

FA: Pfrunder & Malcolm Matheson

FA: Neil Monteith, Adam Demmert, James Pfrunder & Malcolm Matheson, 2005

Trad mista 13m, 2
22 Gypsy, Sun And Rainbow

Stick clip first FH, and up it, as for "Bury Me Standing". Up and left to horizontal seam and wire placement. Up past FH to vertical crack and easy ground.

Start: Start as for "Bury Me Standing"

FA: Nick Kiraly & Steve Holloway, 2005

Trad mista 18m, 2
21 Bury Me Standing

Stick clip first FH, bridge to first holds, stepping right into base of right-leading seam. Up over bulges (2 FHs) to stance at base of rotten crack. Arrange gear, step left and up jugs to top.

Start: Start at far end of an orange wall / semi-detached pinnacle just uphill from Mad Cow.

FA: Steve Holloway & Nick Kiraly, 2005

Trad 18m
20 Mad Cow

Pretty exciting stuff. Traverse left past 3 FH on flake, then pull over onto slab. Rap off slings. A worthwhile extended finish has been done by continuing up and L into 2nd runnel, finishing about 5m higher. Start: Start as for "Crazy Like A Fox"

FA: Michael Hampton & Geoff Butcher, 2005

Trad mista 22m, 3
20 Bovine Spongiform Encephalopathy (BSE)

Interesting alternate finish to "Mad Cow". At the 2nd FH, make a move R onto slab, then up this to slings.

FA: Michael O'Reilly, Steve Chapman & Ross Timms, 2006

Trad 25m
19 Crazy Like a Fox

Reachy moves up unlikely, pocketed face. Short people might want to add a grade or so.

Start: Start at right-leading ramp.

FA: Michael Hampton & Geoff Butcher, 2005

Trad 22m
20 Steve Holloway Route

FA: Steve Holloway, 2005

Trad 15m
22 Nick Route

FA: 2005

Trad 15m
20 Slow Burn

FA: Mick Hampton & Geoff Butcher

Trad 20m
24 Arrested

Sustained laybacks on perfect finger locks and edges. Take medium wires and cams. Starts at hanging crack 20m downhill from Mad Cow.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2005

Trad 15m
19 Flashing Eyes

Blocky Line up left of "Gypsy Swing" with a fiery second pitch.

  1. 18m (18) Climb the blocky line. Step left onto arête and go up to belay at base of headwall.

  2. 18m (19) Start up middle of steep wall, then move back right at top of orange streak to finish at notch a few metres left of right arête.

FA: Micahel Hampton & Sharyn George (alt), 2005

Trad 36m, 2
20 Steal My Fingers

Step up and left onto wall following diagonal (small wires) to easier finish. Rap Chain.

Start: Start as for "Gypsy Swing".

FA: Nic Kiraly & Steve Holloway, 2005

Trad 18m
17 Gypsy Swing

Unsercut arete left of "Band Of Thieves" swinging in from the left on a diagonal. Rap Chain.

FA: Geoff Butcher & Michael Hampton, 2005

Trad 18m
19 Band Of Thieves

Obvious clean-cut corner-handcrack, easing up after the first several metres. Trend L at the top to rap chain above Gypsy Swing. Might have been done earlier as there was a little white square already in-situ.

FA: FRA Tim Marsh, 2003

Trad 23m
20 Over Committed

Grit-style arete first climbed ground-up and retro-bolted to make it sane. R and downhill from Band of Thieves.

FA: Neil Monteith & Mick Hampton, 2005

Trad mista 20m, 2
21 Queen Of Der

A tasty excursion. Start: Start as for "Eloquence Of Speech".

FA: Geoff Butcher & Michael Hampton, 2006

Trad mista 26m, 2
21 Eloquence Of Speech

Climb wall behind small pinnacle to horizontal break, then small edges past FH to easier ground, finishing steeply at juggy break.

FA: Steve Holloway & Nic Kiraly, 2005

Trad 20m
11 Rag And Bone

Steep bucket-pulling with some brittle chicken-heads.

Start: Start at toe of semi-detached pinnacle.

FA: Michael Hampton & Geoff Butcher, 2005

Trad 40m
14 Reading Palms

Grassy corner on left end of semi-detached pinnacle.

FA: Steve Holloway & Peter Mills, 2005

Trad 18m
20 Dutch Courage

Steep, right-facing corner left of "Blogger".

FA: Mark Gould & Boudewijn Docter, 2005

Trad 18m
15 Blogger

Climb corners to the top, with a rest on the big flake forming first corner.

Start: Start as for "Transylvanian Trad".

FA: Geoff Butcher & Michael Hampton, 2005

Trad 20m
20 Transylvanian Trad

Go up and right to diagonal crack and follow this and cracks to easy wall. Don't rap from bollard or you'll end up in the trees: continue to top

Start: Start at wall left of orange undercut.

FA: Michael Hampton & Geoff Butcher, 2005

Trad 20m
16 Bohemian Ridge

Mixed climbing with a short crux. The gully L of "Nice Knobs" is blocked by a black slab.

FA: Michael Hampton & Sharyn George, 2005

Trad 45m
12 Nice Knobs

Climb the right side of the recessed ramp and wall up left of the chasm.

FA: Sharyn George & Michael Hampton, 2005

Trad 40m
18 Read Rover

Enjoyable face with good gear.

FA: Michael Hampton & Sharyn George, 2005

Trad 25m
12 In A Dark Wood Wandering

Go diagonally right up the juggy grassland to slightly awkward exit up right-leading crack.

FA: Michael Hampton & Sharyn George, 2005

Trad 18m
13 A Fortune Teller

Diagonally right up the grassland as for"In A Dark Wood Wandering" to the right-R leading crack. Step across to west-facing headwall of undercut pinnacle and horizontal breaks. Step left and up. Take slings for abseil.

Start: Start as for "In A Dark Wood Wandering".

FA: Sharyn George & Michael Hampton, 2005

Trad 25m
16 Dead Horses

From chock-stone climb directly up to FH. Pull onto ramp and climb juggy orange headwall to top.

FA: Geoff Butcher & Michael Hampton, 2005

Trad mista 27m, 1
20 Johnny Depp

Go up seams then traverse delicately right to below orange bulges (wires). Rock onto bulge and step right to second bulge and cams. Crank up and over right to left-leading exit crack.

Start: Start on the left between some pines.

FA: Michael Hampton & Sharyn George, 2005

Trad 23m
18 Errol Flynn

Diagonal cracks in black streak right of "Johnny Depp" to bolt. Step left and follow left-hand line through bulges. Go right a bit and straight up.

FA: Geoff Butcher, Michael Hampton & Sharyn George, 2005

Trad mista 20m, 1
20 Steptoe And Scum

Take diagonal seams on nose to left side of bulge in orange headwall.

Start: On the uphill side of semi-detached pinnacle is a corner. Start at nose left of this corner.

FA: Geoff Butcher & Michael Hampton, 2005

Trad 18m

Tutti 37 vie visualizzati.

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