Vie come trad in Red Rock Area

Bridge trench to steep finish.

Start: Scramble into belay niche behind pinnacle.

Easy crack left of "Bulldozer In The Background".

Move onto bollard, arrange gear and up to FH. Straight up diagonal seams. Start: Start as for "Heavy Milk, Light Beer"

Crack in left wall of chimney until crack ends. Chimney, or face climb arête, then exit onto left wall, finishing steeply under branch of gum tree.

Start: Start at chimney left of buttress left of "Queen of Der".

Watch out for skating cams and feet on the slick rock.

Major crack system around left of "Grand Oral Disseminator", behind boulder.

Off-width corner/crack 5m L of "Private Parts". Take several #5 cams

Stick clip first FH, and up it, as for "Bury Me Standing". Up and left to horizontal seam and wire placement. Up past FH to vertical crack and easy ground.

Start: Start as for "Bury Me Standing"

Stick clip first FH, bridge to first holds, stepping right into base of right-leading seam. Up over bulges (2 FHs) to stance at base of rotten crack. Arrange gear, step left and up jugs to top.

Start: Start at far end of an orange wall / semi-detached pinnacle just uphill from Mad Cow.

Pretty exciting stuff. Traverse left past 3 FH on flake, then pull over onto slab. Rap off slings. A worthwhile extended finish has been done by continuing up and L into 2nd runnel, finishing about 5m higher. Start: Start as for "Crazy Like A Fox"

Interesting alternate finish to "Mad Cow". At the 2nd FH, make a move R onto slab, then up this to slings.

Reachy moves up unlikely, pocketed face. Short people might want to add a grade or so.

Start: Start at right-leading ramp.

Sustained laybacks on perfect finger locks and edges. Take medium wires and cams. Starts at hanging crack 20m downhill from Mad Cow.

Blocky Line up left of "Gypsy Swing" with a fiery second pitch.

1. 18m (18) Climb the blocky line. Step left onto arête and go up to belay at base of headwall.

2. 18m (19) Start up middle of steep wall, then move back right at top of orange streak to finish at notch a few metres left of right arête.

Step up and left onto wall following diagonal (small wires) to easier finish. Rap Chain.

Start: Start as for "Gypsy Swing".

Unsercut arete left of "Band Of Thieves" swinging in from the left on a diagonal. Rap Chain.

Obvious clean-cut corner-handcrack, easing up after the first several metres. Trend L at the top to rap chain above Gypsy Swing. Might have been done earlier as there was a little white square already in-situ.

Grit-style arete first climbed ground-up and retro-bolted to make it sane. R and downhill from Band of Thieves.

A tasty excursion. Start: Start as for "Eloquence Of Speech".

Climb wall behind small pinnacle to horizontal break, then small edges past FH to easier ground, finishing steeply at juggy break.

Steep bucket-pulling with some brittle chicken-heads.

Start: Start at toe of semi-detached pinnacle.

Grassy corner on left end of semi-detached pinnacle.

Steep, right-facing corner left of "Blogger".

Climb corners to the top, with a rest on the big flake forming first corner.

Start: Start as for "Transylvanian Trad".

Go up and right to diagonal crack and follow this and cracks to easy wall. Don't rap from bollard or you'll end up in the trees: continue to top

Start: Start at wall left of orange undercut.

Mixed climbing with a short crux. The gully L of "Nice Knobs" is blocked by a black slab.

Climb the right side of the recessed ramp and wall up left of the chasm.

Enjoyable face with good gear.

Go diagonally right up the juggy grassland to slightly awkward exit up right-leading crack.

Diagonally right up the grassland as for"In A Dark Wood Wandering" to the right-R leading crack. Step across to west-facing headwall of undercut pinnacle and horizontal breaks. Step left and up. Take slings for abseil.

Start: Start as for "In A Dark Wood Wandering".

From chock-stone climb directly up to FH. Pull onto ramp and climb juggy orange headwall to top.

Go up seams then traverse delicately right to below orange bulges (wires). Rock onto bulge and step right to second bulge and cams. Crank up and over right to left-leading exit crack.

Start: Start on the left between some pines.

Diagonal cracks in black streak right of "Johnny Depp" to bolt. Step left and follow left-hand line through bulges. Go right a bit and straight up.

Take diagonal seams on nose to left side of bulge in orange headwall.

Start: On the uphill side of semi-detached pinnacle is a corner. Start at nose left of this corner.

Flake crack at left end of wall.

Blunt orange arete with large horn right of Kilogram etc. Two useless FHs which are positioned in impossible to clip situations. Ignore them and place good trad instead. Rap off bollard or continue up another 20m of rubbish juggy rock. The start is much harder than grade 14.

Not very appetising and hopelessly contrived. 'Flake' (2 FHs), at right end of west wall.

Ron would be ashamed of this effort. left orange streak on wall right of 'Bottom Juice', then wall above to rap station.

Orange streak on right, then to Kauk Is My Hero's rap station.

Needs bolts. Orange face and thin flake.

On the South East face of the pinnacle is a bottomless wide crack. Up crack (crux) on good gear then head left up rampy corner. Finish up vertical crack on jugs. Rap from bolt anchors above Je Ne Parle Pas Francais.

Short intense fun on great quality rock. Starts 3m left of 'Ich Spreche Nicht Deutsches', just left of small tree.

Short steep crack. On the north side of the pillar are two right leading lines. This one climbs the right one. When the crack runs out reach up to horizontal, then step right and up juggy groove to top. Rap off anchors above Je Ne Parle Pas Francais.

Not on Espanol Pinnacle itself, but nearby. Right facing flake crack in gully 100m below the North Pinnacle.

Prominent leftwards leaning line on west facing wall 30m south of the Vertebrae Pinnacle. Bulgy 'Arapiles' style rock. Awkward slabby closed corner to start then pumpy traversing to finish. Good gear but needs a bit of a clean.

Long gentle wall left of 'Womble'. First move off the ground is the crux. John Taylor and Mark Sewell did an un-recorded climb in this vicinity during Easter 1978. Start in the gap between the North & South Pinnacles. Pull onto the wall then follow intermittent seams up the grey wall, trending gradually rightwards. If the first move is problematic, you can bridge between the two pinnacles.

Easy juggy face on wall opposite I Just Called etc. Start on the right side just left of the arete. Rock is fragile and protection is a little sparse. This is the easiest way to the summit.

Skanky. The arete with two RBs just right of 'Womble', via the undercut direct start. 'Missing' a third bolt. Stickclip first bolt, and step across from small block oposite to gain rock. Up very fragile mega jugs onto arete. Scamper up the left side (trying to avoid Womble). Place some marginal wires in fragile rock then go up and clip third FH of 'Dislocation' (with difficulty). Finish up the arete past another FH to lower-off.

On the north west corner of the pinnacle is an easy angled left facing orange corner (about 10m right of Struck Twice). Up this to meet with top of pine tree. Peer around the corner to find horizontal rising crack with occasional tufts of grass. Traverse desperately along this with nigh all footholds to end up perched on sharp rest flake. Finish up easy jugs to top.

4m Left of Grey Matter. Straight up to the top. First move is the crux. The rest of the climb is grade 12 up fragile featured wall. Pull over the right side of the red overhang.

A fairly good climb, taking the L arete of the main face. Start from a ledge gained by scrambling up the boulder choked gully. Climb a short crack from the R side of the ledge then move back left to the arete and up and slightly right to more cracks leading up to the arete again. Move around left of the arete and up to a ledge (belay possible) to finish up the final, steeply overhanging arete. Double ropes a

must. Steve Monks, Louise Shepherd, Peter Riddy March 89

A continuous pitch up the centre of the face, gradually steepening as it goes. Desperate friction moves (mossy) 5m left of 'Redback' lead past a FH to a slim groove. Up left past 2no of FH to gain a thin crack which leads to the prominent diagonal. Continue more easily up the left leading diagonal crack to a thin vertical crack. When the crack ends, lurch left to gain another overhanging crack, which leads to the top & lower off anchor. First pitch is clean as a whistle.

A fine face pitch leads to wild swings through the top overhang. 1) 25m (24) Climb tenuously past a FH 10m L of the R arete and continue R-ward past 2no of FH. Up and R to good slots and continue diagonally R to gain short groove and the ledge on SW arete. Possible to head point / top rope from dang's anchor. 2) 30m (25) Up to gain the prominent undercut 'jug' on the arete (2 RB's). Heave over the roof and up to a rest. Now straight up arete, it gets easier to the top. Lower off anchor in small cave.

One for the peak baggers. The easiest route on the southern pinnacle. Scramble up the S face to a ledge on the SW arete. Traverse right above red overhang with poor pro then climb directly to the top on juggy grey rock.

Starts 3m right of 'Red Ragging' on south face of southern pinnacle. Up and left on orange rock with no gear to left leading small crack through bulge at 5m. Stem through bulge and swing out left to meet up with 'Red Ragging'. Follow it for a few metres then head diagonally right aiming for the prominent left leaning orange corner. Up corner using jugs on big hollow sounding block to finish with bouldery left traverse to ledge.

One of the best routes here but requires trad and bolt plates so not hugely popular. Varied climbing! Starts 5m right of 'Fat Fingered Freak'. Stick clip RB from block. Jump for jug and mantle onto ledge. Clip BR and step right then trend back left along sloping orange edge (BR) to under cracked bulge. Pull through this strenuously protected by wires to jug at base of small corner. Clip BR; stem into corner for a few moves then reach out left to escape hold that leads to jugs and top. Single u-bolt lower-off WARNING - single clip and go anchor could be unsafe - please thread direct through Ubolt rather than using the biner. Single set of wires and a finger size cam is the only trad gear required.

Starts 7m right of One Ring To Bind Them. Right leading ramp leads to bulge, then left past protruding knob and up. Watch for the perched block of doom. Leader slung knob for aid.

Directly opposite 'Strike the First Blow', is a juggy wall. Start a few metres right and climb the grey face which gets easier the higher you get. At the small red cave climb out the overhung right side and up easily to ledge. There is a mystery bolted rap anchor in the cave.

Another worthless addition. Starts about 3m right of 'Wimbleton' at smooth part of grey wall. Up a few moves then right 2m. Follow easing seam, trending slightly left, to break overhang just right of the small red cave on 'Wimbleton'.

Face with three BRs (then natural protection) opposite Fat Fingered Freak. There is a large chain fixed around chicken heads for belay/lower off

Start 15 metres right of The Height of Darkness and follow grassy middle crackline left until it runs out. Finish up 1 metre right of The Height Of Darkness. Belay off chicken heads.

Starts 3m right of 'Bikini Bootcamp'. Climb easy-angled grey rib for about 7m, step left then steeply to top of pinnacle. Descent can be accomplished over the next pinnacle or off the rap anchors on 'Bikini Bootcamp'.

A tricky crux on sensational turtle shell rock. The route begins at the left hand end of the Trench. Follow three FH to a chain anchor. A #2 Rock will protect the start, or stick-clip the first bolt.

Steep pumpy jug hauling on orange rock. Located on upper wall deep inside chasm. Two RB's to start then medium gear to DRB lower off.

Wide overhung trench 4m right of 'Used Platypus Condom'. No wide trad gear required. Surprisingly steep and interesting. Walk off descent.

A pumpy rising traverse on gritty rock with a nails hard start. Starts 5m right of 'Over And Out' at right edge of undercut grey wall. Boulder past FH to gain horizontals. 'Monkey' leftwards across these (medium SLCD's) to a flake forming an arête. Up this arete (FH) to finish. Walk off descent.

A thin direct finish to 'Raver Girl'. Climb past first FH to horizontals. Arrange pro (medium SLCD's) and head rightwards on thin crimpers past FH to good holds. Up juggy wall past 3rd FH to top. Walk off descent.

The shrubbery isn't as bad as it looks! On the left side of the entrance to the Marianas Trench there is a wide crack. From the ground, scramble up on jumbled blocks for 5 meters to gain the base of the crack. A couple of layback moves take you to a grassy ledge. Climb the slab on the left of the crack to avoid some vegetation before stepping back into the line and on to the top. A big cam (4 Camalot or similar) is useful.

Good, delicate and well protected slab climbing. The slab and shallow cracks 5 meters left of Aelutian Crack. Climb short grassy crack onto the slab then follow the cracks to the base of the compact red/orange corner. Move left and finish up 'Cindy'.

A direct finish up the compact red/orange corner and the arete above has been top roped in the low 20's (depending upon reach), however, both rock and protection are poor.

Two meters left of 'Cindy' is a broken chimney which splits the slab in half. Start 1-2m left of this chimney (5m left of Cindy) and follow the cracks in the slab before weaving through the tufts of grass above. A tricky start with minimal gear quickly gives way to very easily protected if occasionally mossy climbing.

Well protected moderate slab climbing with an entertaining finish. The short chimney crack to a dog leg crack three meters left of Pike. Take the ramp up right to the base of the shallow orange corner at the apex of the wall which is passed on the right.

Diagonal cracks in black streak right of "Johnny Depp" to carrot bolt. Step left and follow left-hand line through bulges. Go right a bit and straight up.

Go up seams then traverse delicately right to below orange bulges (wires). Rock onto bulge and step right to second bulge and cams. Crank up and over right to left-leading exit crack.

Start: Start on the left between some pines.

Slippery finger-jamming in the striking diagonal line followed by easier but loose climbing to a dramatic finish.

Start: Start from a cave passing right through the pinnacles.

The improbable-looking left-leaning crack on the far left-hand side of Crag X, behind a huge free-standing pinnacle.

1. 20m (19) Gain the muddy corner from the right and go up to recline on the ledge.

2. 25m (22) Up the diagonal and then launch out over the sickening void on buckets. Double U bolt belay has been added to top.

Climbs the wall to the right of the huge cave. Great rock and pro. To access, traverse carefully across the slabby rock at the right hand end of the cave (easy but exposed) to the base of the wall and double bolt belay. Climb straight up to the ledge (where the Misty Wall routes start) then straight up wall above to double bolt anchors.

An exciting spacey route with great climbing. Start on the steep arete. An exposed traverse past RB leads to a run out and delicate face with natural gear. Climb past a 2nd RB to join Misty Variant, arrange gear and top out. A yellow and green alien are useful to protect the top shallow break.

Starting on the ledge, climb the right hand wall (on the detached block). Clip the RB on the main wall and make an exciting traverse left to gain the vertical seam. Arrange good wires and commit to a tough run out crux sequence. Place a green and yellow alien before reaching jugs as crack widens to the top. Rap from double bolts.

A classic face climb. Start as for Misty Variant. From the first RB head straight up wall past a 2nd RB, some good natural gear (small to medium wires) and a 3rd RB which protects the crux. A powerful, run out crux sequence leads to jugs and good gear.

Start: Start at the left end of the main wall

1. 12m (24) Boulder past bolt, then left into scoop and rest. Exit right and up and belay on ledge.

2. 38m (25) Crux past bolt then sustained past fixed RP to horizontal break with big jugs. Diagonally right for 2 metres to finish up steep but easier crack.

The only slab for miles.

Start on a detached flake 8 metres left of an arête on the large free standing block below the right end of the main cliff.

The left arete of the huge block leaning against the cliff about 50 metres left of "Don't Count Your X Before They Hatch"

1. 25m (26) Past pin and desperately past bolt then slightly easier to belay. Scramble to top of block.

2. 30m (26) From the apex of the block, climb up into scoop, left to runners (#1 cam, big nut in a hole). Left and up flake, lurch right past bolt onto flakes, right and on to top.

Instead of exiting right at the top, launch out left along a superb hand traverse. There are two lines; one under the roof, and one two metres below, so who knows which one to take. They both look juggy albeit with a touch of loose rock and no pro, so make sure you're second isn't you...

The big corner at the far right-hand side of the cliff. An unheralded classic in the climb-a-line-to-the-top-of-the-cliff-adventure vein. To descend, first follow your nose up the fragile chicken heads to the top, walk back from the edge, and follow an easy gully to the right. Scramble up the easy ramp to the base of the corner to start.

1. 25m (12) Mossy face into awesome orange cave, followed by a mossy chimney to belay on a mossy chockstone. Strangely enjoyable.

2. 35m (18) The original description: delightful bridging up the corner on clean orange rock. The reality: awesome unlikely climbing to gain the corner proper, wish you had a dust mask past the poo cave, then brilliant orange rock to the top without a bridge in sight. Traverse off right when the corner blanks out.

Enjoyable, easy ramble. To get off - back climb down and right to step onto huge rock (which forms the right hand side of the aforementioned tunnel/cave). *Tricky Bouldering to get off this on the south side, or very exposed nth side (not recommended).

Start: Starts just right of "Counting Your X Before They Hatch", just left of small cave/tunnel at detached block leaning onto face.

Obvious natural crack on the east face. Tricky, pumpy start to slabby top out.

Climb the left arête to chains. Can be climbed sport, or with an optional medium cam to eliminate the runout to the last bolt.

The orange face has 2 bolts and a rusty pin. It looks desperate, but leads into a great looking hanging corner.

Start: Starts at the west side of the pinnacle immediately right of the 'Picasso Block'.

The cliff splitting crack provides great climbing and equally great gear. When it ends, continue straight up to a scenic belay.