Vie come trad in Roadside Crag

The slab.

Start: Start about 50 metres up and around left from 'Goldfinger' Wall, towards the back of the crag is a short slab.

The thin crack in the middle of 'Goldfinger' Wall has a problematic layback start leading to energy-sapping jugs.

If you haven't got a bed to get out the wrong side of.

Vague line 2 metres right of Goldilocks.

We have all used the occasional tree for assistance but this climb is half over by the time you're out of it. Climb the curving tree right of Goldilocks until it is possible to step onto the wall beneath a break in the bulge. Climb over the bulge and continue diagonally left.

Enjoyable crack at the right-hand end of "Goldfinger Wall".

Worthless leftover. Down on the main face, at the left side is a black wall just left of an undercut section.

Take the groove on the left side of the black wall, heading slightly left to stay out of the gully continuation.

Wandering, with loose blocks. Start a metre or two right of Vestigial Remnant, 1 metre left of the beginning of the undercut section. Up diagonally right for 10 metres then go left a little to a flake on the right edge of the black rock. Up and right to finish through loose-looking blocks. Scramble off with care.

Some people will do anything to get their name on a crag. A more direct version of "Dead Ignorance". Start 3 metres right of Dead Ignorance and go straight up the buttress right of the black wall. Finish just left of a large prow.

Not quite the offwidth one is expecting; not at all bad. Originally done in two pitches.

Start in much the same place as Collector's Item, a couple of metres right of the left end of the undercut section.

Move up then go right just above the undercut to gain the lowest and leftmost of the diagonals. Steep climbing leads to an exit right into a guano-stained niche (belay on first ascent). Follow the line above with good moves around the bulge.

Good climbing with a fingery start. Start at the pocketed scoop 6 metres right of Rainbow Road. Difficult climbing through the pocketed scoop. Above, move right into the diagonal right of Rainbow Road and follow it.

Serious, contrived crux section can be avoided.

Start: Start at the next clear spot at the base of the cliff, 10 metres right of "Another Roadside Attraction".

1. 20m (-) Up to belay just left of an easy corner system.

2. 18m (23) Go up the thin corner for 2 metres then straight up the wall with shaky protection. It is far easier and more natural to move right and then back left with many runners.

Excellent climbing along the largest of the diagonals.

Start: Start 2 metres right of "Peace, Love And Happiness".

1. 20m (19) Go up until it is possible to start a rising leftward traverse. Surmount the bulge and continue to a stance above loose blocks at the base of the diagonal proper.

2. 20m (19) The diagonal crack. A step right at 15 metres avoids a hard section.

Start: Start 10 metres right of "Making Movies" at the right-hand end of the undercut, 12 metres left of "English Heatwave".

1. 20m (14) Use a tree to gain the face. Continue up, then tend left to join a left-leaning, wide crack. Follow the crack to a recess.

2. 15m (14) Move left for 3 metres and go up the diagonal cracks through the overhanging wall. Immediately travers right and move up a little to a good ledge.

3. 30m (-) The juggy wall leads up right to the top.

Move steeply up the wall to confront the purplish-coloured overhang with a crack through it. Pass the overhang and climb the juggy but tiring wall to a large ledge. Easily to the top.

Start: Start 5 metres right of "Mae West" and 5 metres left of "Pebble Finish"

An airy route taking the left arete of the huge corner.

1. 20m (-) Up the arete and the face on the left to a ledge.

2. 30m (-) Diagonally left and then up to a good ledge.

3. 18m (19) Diagonally right to a weakness in the bulge. Up and over.

The huge corner near the right end of the main face. Some doubtful rock.

1. 20m (16) The blocky chimney leading to the base of the corner.

2. 50m (16) Up the corner, steeply at first then more easily to an overhanging chimney that leads to a ledge.Move left and finish up a short corner.

Portable belays take note.

Start: Start as for "English Heatwave".

1. 20m (-) The blocky chimney of "English Heatwave".

2. 25m (20) Go right and into the alcove. Climb rightward through the bulge and up to belay in a corner on the right below roofs.

3. 10m (20) Go left 3 metres and over the roofs, just left of the widest point.

Start: Find "War Is Hell" and start 3 metres left of it; that is 2 metres right of "English Heatwave".

1. 25m (21) Climb up into the shallow corner and follow it to the left side of the roof. 'Layback' through the roof and up right to belay on the arete.

2. 25m (19) Pull through the bulge on the arete and go diagonally left through the cave roof system. If your forearms are pumped the roofs can be avoided.

So-so. Everything is two grades harder than it looks.

Start: Start 5 metres right of "English Heatwave" ata steep orange face with a roof and corner line.

1. 25m (20) Climb up the right side of the orange roof and up the corner-line to a ledge on the left.

2. 25m (18) Go out left and up a corner-line to a ledge on the left. Or, easier,go right and up the line and easy stuff.

Moss city.

Start: Start 5 metres right of "War Is Hell", 10 metres right of "English Heatwave".

1. 30m (10) Straight up moss to finally belay on small ledge.

2. 20m (-) Move right for 5 metres and continue straight up on jugs to terrace.

Start: Start about 5 metres right of "Peregrination" where a short crack slants up left through steep rock.

1. 20m (12) Up the crack and then left a little to a thin vertical crack which is followed to a good ledge on the right.

2. 20m (12) The weakness diagonally left for 15 metres. Traverse out right to front of buttress, veer up and right to the top.

Start just right of "Cranker's Wamp" just before the rock becomes much smoother. Climb the faint groove, tending right to the top.

Looks reasonable.

Start a few metres right of "Swinging Couples" at a short slab-corner.

Go left and up to the top of the slab, then step right and go up the line.

Two hard sections and some obscure moves.

Start: Start 2 metres right of "Bored Of Discipline", 1-2 mteres left of the next obvious break.

Go up a thin face through an area of weird 45-degree strata and then up a fine line on grey rock with a hard sit-down(!) move. Now easily on.

Apparently Mikl was leaving this for the foxy team. Sadly, they didn't make it and it was left for Terry to claw past their chalk a year later in bitter weather.

Start: Start 2 metres right of 'Dirk Strutter' at a break in the overhang.

Climb the break in the overhang and step right into the left-leaning corner. Climb the corner to easy finish.

Pumpy. Dangerous to second as it parallels the hillside for a time.

Start 2 metres right of "Winter Chills"

Go diagonally right up the corner and around the roof. Layback the delicate flake leading left and up.

Climb diagonally left below the overhangs until you can pull through on jugs. Go up easily to the final bulge where things pep up a bit.

Start: Right of "Dum Dum Daze" and left of the descent chimney, a slab slants up left.

Pretty pumpy. Sort of like 'The Gallery' without the fixed gear. About 80 metres up the hillside is a steep wall.

Start 4 metres left of "Pump It Up". The remains of an old fireplace may still be visible here.

Climb the wall, moving right to within 1 metre of Pump It Up below the final bulge. Pull over the bulge and hand-traverse left to the corner. Now motor out the 3-4 metre roof.

Really steep and good.

Go straight up to the notch at the right-hand end of the roof.

Left of the main corner system is a compact orange wall. Start on nose below an obvious break in the bulge at half-height. Pull up[ right then back left onto pedestal. Tackle wall then continue up and over crack in bulge. Easier climbing leads left and up. (The obvious finish up the break in the arete has atrocious rock and poor protection)

Climb up the weakness in the wall to a ledge. Step right and go up the corner. Traverse 2 metres right just below a loose block and then go up to where you can escape or climb a left-leading flake into the crack above the roof and go up this crack.

Start: Start below and just left of a corner on the right wall of the big corner.

Slope up the wall and climb the bulge. Continue up the wall and finish directly over the top overhang.

Start: Start 4 metres right of 'Lizardry' below a cracked bulge at 4 metres.

Climb steeply past good horizontals to orange turret. Step left then up to finish.

Start: Start on the left side of the south face, just right of orange prow.

Climb the right side of the wall right of 'Sink The Slipper'.

Quite sustained and steeper than it looks.

Start: Start on the next wall right and uphill from Roadside Prow.

Climb seams on left side of wall until an awkward move right gains a finger crack. Up to horizontal, step left and pull up on good edges. Buckets appear soon after.