Aiuto

Mt Pleasant

È vietato arrampicare in questa area.

19

Stagionalità

G
F
M
A
M
G
L
A
S
O
N
D

Descrizione

Low to medium grades, good pro. great for beginners and top ropes.

Limitazioni per l'accesso

This crag was singled out as closed in the draft GGLMP and is within the CV11 (Cultural Values) SPA. Might be best to climb elsewhere.

Avvicinamento

Head S from the Stapylton car park, near rock art site. Until you are just past Mini Castle Crag. Then veer right to grassy creek bed and follow this S for 50m. Then cross the creek bed. Keep going S for another 5 min., in open flat terrain. You will come to Doddery Rock then Mt. Pleasant is another 40m. S.

Alt approach if creek is high - Take right fork of gravel track toward art site, cross creek near the parks vic sign with the photo of firefighters on it. Follow general direction of creek, skirt right around initial denser scrub then back to creek. Obvious outcrops up on your right aren't Mt Pleasant yet, keep going in direction of creek for another 400 or so metres and you should come across Doddery Rock with Mt P up on the hill behind.

Etica ereditato da Grampians

Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.

Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.

===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===

  • Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

  • Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.

  • Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

  • Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

  • Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.

  • Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.

  • Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.

  • Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

  • Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.

  • Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.

  • Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.

For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

Alcuni contenuti sono stati forniti sotto licenza da: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Vie

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Grado Via

Obvious crack line at E./ left end of cliff. Left of scrubby descent gully

FA: Leigh Colless & Cameron Barrett, 2007

Crack/ corner right of scrubby descent gully, left of FH's. Start 1m. left of 2FH's. Bridge between crack & sidewall, exit through V brake at top of crack.

FA: Cameron Barrett & Leigh Colless, 2006

1m. right of Free Hanging. Take shallow cracks right of FH's to pocket, move to orange rock and straight up, finish at shallow V at top. Don't use boulder to start.

FA: Leigh Colless & Cameron Barrett, 2007

3m. right of K. the arête. use boulder to gain arête, move up this to jugs and over top. belay from top of K.

FA: Leigh Colless & Cameron Barrett, 2007

Optimistic. First corner right of Shiela G. Pull up into knobbly corner and work up on good holds. Pull up onto ledge and continue up bridging corner. Some holds are brittle.

First shallow corner right of S.G., Pull up into knobbly corner & work your way up on good holds. Pull up onto ledge & continue up bridging corner, some holds brittle.

FA: Cameron Barrett & Leigh Colless, 2007

Around left of OP&OH is another obvious corner line with an overhang at the top. The juggy cracks in the wall left of the corner then the line up the arete.

About 2m. left of FH. Obvious corner line with over hang. The juggy cracks in the wall left of the corner, then the line up the arête.

FA: Philip Armstrong & Jeremy Maddox, 2001

In memory of my Mother who passed late 2006. Obvious V crack with slight roof left of OP&OH. Start as for H.V., traverse right into crack past bolt plate. Follow crack line into roof, move left under roof following crack to top

FA: Cameron Barrett, Leigh Colless & Chris Tamavic, 2006

The corner starting at the left end of the roof of the cave. From the top of the large block haul into the line and up

FA: Philip Armstrong & Jeremy Maddox, 2001

Start as for OP&OH. Do the crux of that route, then traverse right above the void until able to finish up the next corner.

FA: Stu Dobbie, Jim Kane & Jack Lewis, 2005

Around right of the cave is an overhanging corner. Good jamming.

FA: Jeremy Maddox & Philip Armstrong, 2001

Single FH with red tag.

FA: Cameron ect?, 2000

The easy chimney right of 'Rosehill'.

FA: Jeremy Maddox, 2001

The third route with this name in the Grampians! Next crack in the block after Phillip. Crank up crack and over middle of the bulge. Gear is thin. Originally climbed by bailing right into 'Elizabeth' under the bulge 02-12-2006.

FA: Trevor Wall, Meily Effendy, Leigh Colless & Chris Tamavic, 2007

The wide crack right of Philip. Take a large cam (Camalot 4+).

FA: Jeremy Maddox & Philip Armstrong, 2001

Nice wall climbing up the left leading flake on the wall right of 'Elizabeth' finishing up the short hanging corner. Worth doing.

FA: Philip Armstrong & Jeremy Maddox, 2001

The knobbly cracks up the wall just right of the start of 'Semillon'.

FA: Jeremy Maddox & Philip Armstrong, 2001

Flake crack and shallow corner 3m right of 'Lovedale'. Also written up by C.Barrett as Dadjoe in '06.

FA: Ben Wright, Peter Kello & William Swinson, 2005

Accidently retro-bolted and written up by C.Barrett in '07. 5m right of 'Homebrew', good moves up orange wall. Up through double pock hole past FH to sidepulls, and straight up above horizontal break.

FA: Ben Wright & Peter Kello, 2005

Why was this bolted? 1m right of the previous route. Single FH up very short wall. Better to boulder this one.

FA: Leigh Colless & Cameron Barrett, 2007

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Selected Guidebooks more Nascondi

Autore/i: Steve Toal

Data: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 1 of the Central Grampians guide covers the North and East regions and features over 1400 routes spread over 124 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Autore/i: Steve Toal

Data: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 2 of the Central Grampians guide covers the West and South regions and features over 970 routes spread over 55 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Autore/i: Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons

Data: 2016

ISBN: 9780646955544

"Australia's premier bouldering destination! The new 2016 Edition Grampians Boulder guide authored by Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons. It contains more than 1300 problems which is double the original guide. Heaps of new information on established areas as well as the inclusion of plenty of boulders and crags not published before. It also features update idiot proof layout and expanded history and culture notes. Get one and start cranking!"

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