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Mount Cuthbert Slab

Stagionalità

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Sommario

Mount Cuthbert part of the series of monadnocks (exposed granite domes). Perth's premier slab climbing, some say best in WA. The rock is unusually polished. Climbing requires good footwork & technique

Descrizione

With difficulties, from grade 10 to 24 with sport, mixed and traditional climbing. Routes ranging from 15m to 50m high and 100m wide.

Limitazioni per l'accesso

Mt Cuthbert is within the Monadnocks Conservation Park. Care must be taken to protect the beautiful surrounding jarrah forests. Be mindful of hikers as the popular Bibbulmun track leads past the top of the crag.

Avvicinamento

Travel south from Armadale along Albany Highway for 33.7km (or 9km past the Gleneagle picnic site) until a quarantine track (Herold Road, not sign posted), is reached on the left, On the west (right) side of the highway and some 20meters north of Herold Rd, there is a dirt track. Good spot to hide your car.

The walk takes 40minutes. Proceed on foot along Herold Rd heading east, turn left after 8minutes at a T-junction, then after 10minutes you will reach a Y-junction. A distinct foot track heads off right from here. Follow this and after 50metres the scrub things out as the ground rises towards Mt Cuthbert. Follow the foot track east towards the slabs following some cairns & faded tape markers. Use these and odd patch of scrub to gain the northern spur of Mt Cuthbert. Once on top, a large cairn should be visible. This is the very top of the slabs. Continue down to the left, down low angle slab terrain to the base of the crag.

Etica

  • Respect the Monadnocks Conservation Park ethics
  • Always follow 'Leave no trace principals'
  • Be respectful to other climbers, hikers and outdoor recreational activities
  • Please be mindful of Dieback a plant disease that is spread through soil on shoes/car tires etc. Rangers & conversationalists are trying to protect the park from this issue.

Storia

Grafico cronologico delle vie

Development & the first climbs were put up in the 90s. Between July and September the first 8 routes were up. By the end of October 1990 the frenzy was over. It laid dormant until 2010 with a few more finals additions.

Tags

Vie

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Grado Via

An easy slab climb with good pro, suitable for beginners. Start at extreme R of slab, 1.5m L of crack dividing slab from scalloped rock on R. Climb this imaginary line and continue up overlap at top of slab. Belay in crack.

FA: Steve Digwood & Gary Phillips, 1990

On the decent trail there is a large slab of rock about 8m high leaning against the main outcrop. Start 1m R of left-hand end of this slab. Straight up slab to gain main outcrop through a broad horizontal break before climbing steep slab to large broken blocks. Skirt around to R of these. Straight up and over low headwall to finish. Belay as for Cakewalk. Pleasant and a lot better than it looks.

FA: Gary Phillips & Steve Digwood, 1990

Easy slab moves with the odd crack. Start 3m L of 'A Picnic On Mt Cuthbert'. Scramble to top of detached slab, straight up white rock through undercling to vertical crack. Finish on juggy weakness at overlap.

FA: Guy Dizzynski & M Marshall, 1990

Start L of and below cave formed by slab, keep bolts on L. Past 2 bolts and up slab (crux) to clip 3rd bolt before moving up and R. Continue past easy curving 'handrail'. Use lower off anchors of Eagles Lair or (trad option and original accent, Stright up towards triangular block (do not use it, possibly unstable) protruding from overlap). Belay with small to medium cams.

FA: Gary Phillips & Steve Digwood, 1990

Chicken Little 10m ungradable. Start under the massive detached flake right of ‘Morning Glory’ and go up heading for the gap at the top. Squeeze through under a second flake boulder and wriggle your way to the exit at the top on the right. Solo. Jonas Hollingworth – Apr 2014

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/squeeze-problem/

Start 2m L of Morning Glory (shares same bolts). Through broken pockets. Step L at the 3rd bolt and continue up white featureless section (crux). Straight up and finish at Lower offs of Hanger High.

FA: Steve Digwood & Gary Phillips, 1990

Hanger High is L of Eagles Lair. Typical slabby Mt Cuthbert climb. Crux is smooth slab halfway up. A well protected line. Follow 6 FH to bolted belay, lower off.

FA: Ross Weiter & Dena Rao, 2010

A far milder and easier version of Skid Row. A fun sustained climb. Follow the line of 4 FH to the top, shares lower off anchors of Hanger High.

FA: Gary Matier & Andrew Molyneaux, 1998

Start 2m L of The Slow Mo Show, bolts can be shared with SMS. 4 FH to lower off anchors. Original description; Mixed trad- Good head training for confident slab climbers. The face is course-grained but sparsely featured. Up to bolt then to flakes and 2nd bolt. Directly up smooth slab above, avoiding jugs to R. Belay above overlap, to bolted belay.

FA: Ron Master & Malcolm Edgar, 1990

The line of 4 FH L of Skid Row, takes in some easier ground. Finishes at lower off anchor.

FA: Gary Matier & Andrew Molyneaux, 1998

Sustained slab between Skid Row & Slipway past 5 FH to Lower off anchors. Stay L or over the bolts (esp. L of the 3rd bolt). If you stay R there are good footholds and the grade is easier (chicken!). Classic Mt Cuthbert route.

FA: Gordon Brysland & Isabelle Arnaud, 1991

Mixed trad (4 bolts & gear). Start at base of obvious crack/drain. Up crack to 1st bolt FH (8m). Move R approx 2m and up to base of featureless light gray slab to 2nd FH. Straight up from here, keeping bolts to your L before reaching short headwall and lower off anchors. (medium to large cams) One of the classics of Mt Cuthbert.

Up Crack like Slipway then straight up from 1st to 2nd BR rather than out right

FA: Ron Master, 1996

A classic hard slab climb with good face climbing at the start. Start 2m R from the base of The Drain. Climb white rock to the first ledge (3m), clip bolt. Continue up through pockets to start of the slab and second bolt. Step L and climb the slab (crux) to the overlap, keeping bolts on the R. Lower off anchors of Slipway.

FA: Steve Digwood & Gary Phillips, 1990

Mixed trad (gear & 2 FH bolts. The very obvious groove or shallow corner that is used as a reference point, located approximately midway across the crag. Ensure that good small wires/cams are placed before the committing 1st bolt clip-and-crux sequence. Continue up seam to lower off anchor of White Elephant.

Stunning, steep slab climbing. One of the hardest slab routes near Perth, quite possibly climbable only by Master & God. Start 5m L of The Drain on a short dark wall, below bolt. Up to gain sloping ledge, move R and then up again following the bolt (crux). Top bolt shared with Slipstream, to lower off anchors.

FA: Ron Master & Ronald Master, 1990

This climb is desperate crimp-and-smearfest and that's on a good day! Start approx 3m L of On The Slide, on solid, flaky rock just R of the round nose. Option to thread a wire/ thin tape pro on spike, then up to 1st bolt. Slightly L to 2nf bolt where an extreme but short crux leads to 3rd bolt. Up the easier slab past 4th bolt to lower off anchors.

FA: Dave Wagland & Y Mochizuki, 1990

Start 4m L of Slipstream below a small flake at 4m height. Up over flake to 1st then 2nd bolt. Straight up slab (crux) past 3rd & 4th bolts to make a difficult move through the overlap. Across L slightly to anchor above overlap. 45m route An absolute classic slab climb. The runouts between bolts are just enough to make you quiver.

FA: Gary Phillips & Steve Digwood, 1990

Start at lowest end of broken rocks below the L end of the vegetated ledge where Quiver starts. Avoid easy start to R. Up slab to sloping ledge then up juggy face. Pleasant slab climbing leads to the start of the headwall. Up head wall to slab, then straight up to overlap (optional small cam/nut). Interesting move takes you to anchors, as of Quiver.

FA: Steve Digwood & Gary Phillips, 1990

Another nice line, however pro is sparse. Start L of the main slab between Beginners Luck and Spaced Out, below several eroded slots, which offer some natural pro. Mid pitch lower off anchors at 20m. Then up smooth unprotected slab to belay at overlap (cams) or continue to anchors at Quiver. 14R!

FA: Ronald Master, 1990

5M L of Slab Talk. Definitely not for beginners as there in no protection for the first 25m. Start on smooth section of slab near two large grass trees. Solo up easy slab on flakes & shallow pockets to lower off ancho, located near a white water streak. Keep going, the crux is getting past them. Follow the white streak up smooth but lower angled rock, lower off anchor 4m below the overlap. (original option belay with cams at overlap).

FA: Ronald Master, Mark Thornton & W Kay, 1990

Start 5m L of Beginners Luck and just R of tree, then up past 8 bolts. A tricky smear start, then a well featured face to smooth black slab. Lower off anchors mid pitch at 5th bolt. A few crux smears, then easily to top, lower off anchors 4m below overlap (original option belay with cams in overlap).

FA: Dena Rao & Ross Weiter, 2010

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