Ascensioni in The Black Bay che possiede Informazioni sui passaggi

Hard slopey crux. Not climbable in winter.

Bloody hard and terrifying. It needs a good clean. Pulling through those roofs is super difficult... if you make it that far. Maybe you do need a month of sundays to climb this thing.

Urmagawd... Why did I jump on this again. I hate it.

The low crux feels very hit and miss, hopefully I can find a more static way to get through it. And then there's that filthy sloping ledge below the anchors, which will need some work. Other than that, it's just really pumpy. Providing you hit the dyno. At least it's fun.

Had a super low psych morning for me. Felt weak and not in the game. Headed to RF instead for some training.

Managed to dog up it this morning. That first big move still feels 1 in 20 to me, but everyone else seems to cruise it! Top moves to anchor feel pretty fine now, just need to be able to get in a good rest before the roof.

Some progress on the low crux, but it's still far from a sure thing. I also found a way past the slopers at the top, though conserving energy is going to be key for putting it all together.

No joy on that bottom hold. The rest is okay.

Have decided to quit on the static approach and to work on sticking the dyno instead.

Yeah I got on it too [3]

Sent. Fun, well protected climb with some big moves and a tricky finish that feels scary, but is pretty safe really.

First look. Didn't get too far. Sure is crimpy.

So stoked to get the send on this today, on my fourth visit. Such a fun route with a few really cool moves. Especially great to get it after the first move was such a heartbreaker for me for so long.

Now ahead of schedule for ten 5.12's in 2016! Two down, eight to go!

sent it first go but fell clipping the anchor, so I did it a second time just to convince the critics. Perhaps soft.

This is a great climb! Get on it before the sun turns it into a hotplate though.

Dunno if making the third clip counts as "working". Worked out one move, though. Will be a good sequence.

Second look. Got a bit further. Good crimps and bad crimps and not much else so far.

Crimpy/balance moves, got to the 3rd bolt on lead

Horrible toprope/aid/dog effort to get to the top, truly lamentable climbing. This is certainly doable, but not the way I was climbing tonight.

More practise. More like, "Fingers Weak", this one

Happy to snag this beauty. It's a fight!

Just for giggles (I actually nearly go it too!)

Need to get stronger...

Haven't been on this for ages, but I took up pretty much exactly where I left off last time, i.e., sucking badly. Short, but tough.

I can do pretty much all the individual moves on this, while fresh. The trouble is stringing them all together.

you definitely work for the grate. Nice dino there though...

stylish moves on little crimps, very nice...

Starting to come together. If all goes well, in a session or two I might get the dog. Might as well aim high.

First try today... send will have to be for another day though.

Closing in on the dog. Things are looking up.

Gotta get some strength and endurance, heavy pull throughs with some good holds.

Got the dog, so that's progress. It should happen sometime.

Another dog. Happy to blame the temperature, humidity, recent rainfall and phase of the moon for not getting the tick this time. I mean, who can climb in these conditions?

Deja vu

Deja vu

2 more dogs, incrementally better than those that have gone before. Doesn't feel far off.

Yeah, I could send this any time I want, I just really like dogging it for some reason.

Got to crux and fell. Hopefully get the red point

That dyno is really cool, but there is a lot of work for me to do in the move after the second bolt, before I even get to the dyno on a clean attempt...

I don't want to talk about it.

You'd think I would know better. But you would be wrong.

Be taaaaaaaaal

Should go next session! Clipping requires faith...

Didn't dyno to the jug just below the overhang like example videos on youtube, instead just treat it like a slab problem if you have some length. Also there is a nice knee bar that can help relieve some tension before you go to the nasty sloper before the final bolts.

A few delicate hand/foot placements in the middle then need to be brave for the final moves over the roof

Real tough, super sustained, i wish clipping the anchors felt safer. Would be good to get this but i probably wont get back before the bay get wet.

Probably my new favourite line in the Black Bay. Crimps galore! The crux is probably the 3 move sequence around 3rd which can be a bit reachy but I found it went pretty quickly. Sadly the state of my fingertips going into it wasn't quite good enough to link it this time but I'm excited for the next time I can get on it.