A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
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Table of contents
- 1.
The Spit
84 in Area
- 1.1. Sandy Bay 43 in Crag
-
1.2.
Pearl Bay 35 in Crag
- 1.2.1. The Overhanging Boulder 2 in Boulder
- 1.2.2. The Pearl Bay Quarry 27 in Boulder
- 1.2.3. Pearl Bay Climbing 6 in Cliff
-
1.3.
Castle Rock Beach 4 in Crag
- 1.3.1. Castle Rock 1 in Boulder
- 1.3.2. Oyster inlet 3 in Area
-
1.4.
Parriwi Road Mosman 2 in Crag
- 1.4.1. The Slab 1 in Area
- 1.4.2. Top Side Boulders 1 in Area
- 2. Index by grade
1. The Spit 84 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Per lo più Bouldering
Lat / Long: -33.807328, 151.248664
limitazioni per l'accesso
If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/
etica
Respecting the enviroment and keeping crags clean will maintain a healthy and important relationship between the climbing community, local councils and National Parks. Carry out what you take in and enjoy what the North Shore has to offer.
If you come across an area that is being developed or you think could be under development, please show all due respect to the developers and do not climb the projects listed on thecrag.com.
1.1. Sandy Bay 43 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Tutti Bouldering
Lat / Long: -33.803665, 151.252721
sommario
Numerous historical problems here in good quality sandstone; however the region requires documentation on thecrag.com
descrizione
Climbs described right to left
avvicinamento
Drive into Sandy Bay Road from Peronne Avenue/Amiens Road, continue past the marina until the roundabout. Park anywhere near the roundabout, boulders line the eastern side of the road approximately 100m either side of the roundabout.
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Behind the carsThe first routes are located just before the roundabout hidden behind the parking spots. Many of the landings have been affected by 'beautification' by the council. If you are going to attempt any of these routes be sure you do not trample any of the plants (and if that's not possible, move on and try something else). | ||||||||
| 2 |
★ Dude, Where's My Car?
Sit start, then up and right of the arete via a big pocket and an obvious flake. | V3 | ||||||
| 3 |
No Stopping
From the left arete, move 2m right and up for a fun time and desperate top. | V4 | ||||||
| 4 | 1 | V2 | ||||||
| 5 | The White Line | V3 | ||||||
| 6 | 3 | V4 | ||||||
| 7 | 4 | V0 | ||||||
| 8 | ★★ 5 | V2 | ||||||
| 9 | 6 | V2 | ||||||
| 10 | 7 | V3 | ||||||
| 11 | ★ 8 | V3 | ||||||
The RoundaboutThe two blocks hiding behind the roundabout. | ||||||||
| 13 | ★★ 9 | V4 | ||||||
| 14 | 10 | V2 | ||||||
| 15 | 11 | V1 | ||||||
| 16 | ★ 12 Direct | V2 | ||||||
 /57/11/57114047a13e5db9e1f565730bebd554fcaa2678)  |
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 17 | ★★ 12 | V4 | 6m | |||||
| 18 |
★★★ 13
Several juggy moves directly in the centre of the wall from a standing start leading into some small overhung crimps and a long reach to the ledge. Topout over the second section or crawl around the gap to the right. | V6 | 7m | |||||
| 19 |
★★ 14
Start just right of the arête in the juggy pockets. A long move to the top out through the cave | V3 | 6m | |||||
| 20 |
★ Gladys / Glad
The route starts on "The Sandy bay roof" V6. Follow the line that is going right until you reach the end of the good hand holes then jump on the big jug of the v4 "Roadkill" (jug just above Roadkill's start). Then follow the Roadkill line. This is a link-up. It is an "endurance boulder" with a decent rest in the middle. FA: Clement Bouchet, 1 Ott 2021 | V4 | 6m | |||||
The CaveFun steep jugging located just down from the roundabout on the bend. The routes are listed from left to right. | ||||||||
| 22 |
★★ Deep Diver / 21
Slide deep into the back of the cave to start on an undercling. Move out to buttress via powerful moves (and yes, it's super low-ball roof). FA: Unknown | V4 | ||||||
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 23 |
Wave Rider / 20
Same start hold as 'The Sandy Traverse' then head straight up the flakey arete FA: Unknown | V0 | 3m | |||||
| 24 |
★★ The Sandy Traverse
Work the entire length of the lip starting on the far left side with two hands on the obvious ledge. FA: Unknown | V3 | 10m | |||||
| 25 |
★ Clear Sailing
Start as for 'The Sandy Traverse' but stay with hands on the upper rail topping out as for '18' by mantling onto the ledge in the middle of the cave. FA: Unknown Tracciata: Phillip Booth, 2020 | V1 | 3m | |||||
| 26 |
★★★ The Sandy Bay Roof
Start on the obvious triangle jug towards the back of the roof near the middle of the cave and move to the right side via the lowest chalked rail to the far right side lip. Turn the lip and move directly up the remaining slab to top out. FA: Unknown | V6 | 6m | |||||
| 27 |
★★ Man Overboard / 18
Start on triangle jug as for 'The Sandy Bay Roof'. Head straight out towards the road and finish by mantling onto the shelf in the middle of the cave. FA: Unknown | V3 | 4m | |||||
| 28 |
★★ Roaring Forties / 17
Start on triangle jug as for 'The Sandy Bay Roof'. Make a big move straight out towards the road and then head right to finish up the juggy arete. FA: Unknown | V3 | 3m | |||||
/9f/32/9f32cc4f2a484eec794a63a95c10b1379a159d61)  |
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 29 |
★ Roadkill
Start both hands on the juggy hold under the lip. Climb directly outwards towards the road around the most overhung section of rock. Continue over the ledge to standing, and finish by topping out directly above. | V4 | 4m | |||||
| 30 |
★ Free Willy / 15
Short wall just right of the cave. Sit start on chunky juggy side-pulls and head up via smaller holds to tricky top out. FA: Unknown | V2 | 3m | |||||
| 31 |
★ Summer Daze
Sit start then climb the arete to a tricky mantle. | V6 | ||||||
The PebbleLittle rock opposite the cave, NSEW dictated as perpendicular and parallel to the road. All routes are sit start centred on the referenced side. Any hands/feet you can reach. | ||||||||
| 33 | The Pebble West side | V0 | ||||||
| 34 | The Pebble North side | V2 | ||||||
| 35 | The Pebble South Side | V3 | ||||||
| 36 | The Pebble East side | V4 | ||||||
Left-hand SideThe next bunch of routes are located further left between the cave and the stairs. | ||||||||
| 38 | 22 | V1 | ||||||
| 39 | 23 | V2 | ||||||
| 40 | 24 | V4 | ||||||
| 41 | ★★ 25 | V3 | ||||||
| 42 | ★ 26 | V4 | ||||||
| 43 | ★★ 27 | V5 | 4m | |||||
| 44 | 28 | V1 | ||||||
| 45 | 30 | |||||||
| 46 | 29 | 4m | ||||||
| 47 | 31 | |||||||
| 48 |
Jessie
Direct. FA: James Alexander, 2004 | V10 | ||||||
1.2. Pearl Bay 35 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Per lo più Bouldering
Lat / Long: -33.809885, 151.243981
descrizione
Pearl Bay is made up of three areas. Two areas offering some excellent bouldering and one area offering climbing on rusted out protection.
The main bouldering site, The Pearl Bay Quarry, is a quarry from the 1800's offering quite a few interesting vertical problems of both the slab and face variety. The Pearl Bay Quarry offers soft flat grassy landings, is protected from the wind and faces north east so gets the sun from morning til early/mid afternoon.
The second bouldering area is a 5 minute walk along the path past the boat houses heading towards the rowing club. This big boulder offers a good, juggy overhang problem with potential for variants.
Caution: Local council have erected a permanent sign stating that climbing is not permitted on the Overhanging Boulder. As tempting as it may be please respect this sign and keep the climbing community in good light with the local council.
The climbing area ranges along the base of the cliff starting from The Overhanging Boulder to the pedestrian path connecting to Pearl Bay Avenue.
avvicinamento
Drive north bound along the Spit Road and you'll come to the S bend preceding the down hill approach to the Spit Bridge. Set yourself up in the far left hand lane no later than after the S bend. Very soon after the S bend you'll see a bus shelter. Turn left here into Pearl Bay Avenue and park at the bottom of the hill near number 30. If you miss Pearl Bay Avenue you can take the next left at the bottom of the hill and park at the rowing club but this'll cost you money. Feed the meters and avoid a hefty parking fine. It'll be more convenient if you make your way back up past the S bend and start your approach to Pearl Bay Avenue again.
If you're quick enough to get the Pearl Bay Avenue turn off, park opposite number 30 where you'll see Fig Tree Walk, the pedestrian access for Pearl Bay. Following this path you'll come to the beach that the amazing quarried bouldering overlooks. Turn left into the park at the beach and you'll discover the main wall hidden behind the large Fig tree.
For The Overhanging Boulder continue walking along the path past the house boats and it'll be on your right.
For the rope climbing crag in Pearl Bay, turn right at the beach and follow the trail following the base of the cliff line below all the houses. Look VERY hard to see the limited, yet rusted protection. The protection is not safe to use! This climbing area has seen better days.
storia
Original problem beta derived from the 2011 Sydney Bouldering Guide written by Peter Balint.
1.2.1. The Overhanging Boulder 2 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Tutti Bouldering
Lat / Long: -33.809489, 151.244873
descrizione
This isolated boulder contains the crag classic The Block Arête. There is potential for some variants.
Caution: Local council have erected a permanent sign stating that climbing is not permitted on the Overhanging Boulder. As tempting as it may be please respect this sign and keep the climbing community in good light with the local council.
avvicinamento
Once you reach the beach of Pearl Bay turn right and follow the path past the boat houses and you'll find The Overhanging Boulder with chalked up juggy holds on your right.
 |
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★★★ The Block Arete
Avvertimento Accesso: Do not climb Awesome jug hauling up the stunning overhanging prow leads to a crimpy, 'easy yet somehow desperate', exit. Start low and stay true to the prow. A picturesque must-do classic. Variant: Use a few higher jugs on the left and take a couple of grades off - still fun. FFA: Unknown | V4 | 4m | |||||
| 2 |
★★ The Block Arete RHV
From the first hold make big moves out under the right arete and up on cool pinches avoids all the huge jugs of the left face. | V8 | ||||||
1.2.2. The Pearl Bay Quarry 27 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Tutti Bouldering
Lat / Long: -33.809443, 151.242767
descrizione
An amazing piece of harbour side quarried rock offering some slightly overhanging problems, face problems and some solid slabby goodness worthy of the visit.
avvicinamento
Take the Pearl Bay Avenue turn off, park opposite number 30 where you'll see Fig Tree Walk, the pedestrian access for Pearl Bay. Follow this path and you'll come to the beach that The Pearl Bay Quarry looks over. Turn left into the park at the beach and you'll discover the main wall hidden behind the very large Fig tree.
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
1
From the ledge with the yellow survey mark, go right to the little arête and up. (If you're feeling awesome try the full traverse on the wall with its enormous span). FA: Unknown | V2 | ||||||
| 2 |
★ 2
Awesome, funky, but easy bouldering. Mould yourself into the low scoop, then make a series of fun and interesting moves up left of the large Angiphora. FA: Unknown | V0 | 2m | |||||
| 3 |
★ Jump and Mantle
The name says it all. Loads of fun and pretty tough too. FA: Unknown | V1 | 2m | |||||
| 4 |
★★ Pearl
Start low with your hands on the big reverse layaway, then slap up the overhanging arête to finish on Jump and Mantle (the big sandy foot ledge is on). | V4 | 3m | |||||
| 5 |
★ Cripple Club Mantle
Start as for pearl, left hand up to the crimp on the arête and push out the mantle on the blank face FFA: Mattias FA: Probably lots of people | V3 | 3m | |||||
| 6 |
★ 5
An interesting short cute slab (can add a low start). FA: Unknown | V2 | 3m | |||||
| 7 |
6
Commonly used as a decent. | V0- | 4m | |||||
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 8 |
★ It's Not Cheating!
Facing the rock, start at the left hand arête of the big scoop. Use the tree when topping out. "It's Not Cheating" to use the tree, it's the only safe way to top out and exit! Keep the overhang to your left. Minus points if you use the overhang or any hold beneath or above it. Arête and right hand face only. FA: Brendon Flanagan, 2012 | V1 | 3m | |||||
| 9 |
Eucalyptus
Up the face to the break before a big lock off to a slope below the eucalypt. Clean the top hold before attempt. Controversially, use the tree to top out. | V6 | ||||||
| 10 |
Adrift
Start as for 7 then traverse left before climbing up via the big pocket. | V4 | ||||||
| 11 |
★★ 7 / The Breaks
a highly unusual problem - it's actually easier if you face away from the rock! Park your bum on the left side of the slopey ledge and reach up for the break. Very Cool, though I'm not sure if the Fonz would agree. FA: Unknown | V3 | 4m | |||||
| 12 |
★★ 8
Climb up the wall, then traverse leftwards all the way to the little scoop with the rooflet. Very good. Start under the little overhang, rounding the arete and traversing via the obvious horizontal line of holds. FA: Unknown | V1 | 6m | |||||
| 13 |
★★ 9
Start as for problem #8, but walk the ledge rightwards and finish on the jug on the arête (or higher up if you wish). Stretchy, balancey, and good fun. FA: Unknown | V4 | 4m | |||||
| 14 |
★★ 10
Up the crimpy wall right of the arête, traditionally finishing on thejugs. Worthwhile. FA: Unknown | V2 | 3m | |||||
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 15 |
★ 11
Off the ledge go up to the drill hole, then traverse the break rightwards (the historical plaque makes an ideal foothold, and is a great use of tax payers funds), ending on the big jug on the faint arête. | V1 | 4m | |||||
| 16 |
★ 12 / The Plaque Arete
Off the sandy underclings, take on the arête to the jug. | V0 | 4m | |||||
| 17 |
★ 13 / Cast Away
Just right of the arête is a pleasant slab/wall with some very nice crimps, head slightly left. Very good climbing. | V0 | 4m | |||||
| 18 |
★ A Pearl In The Hand Is Worth A Fig At The Bay
A testing piece of slab highball for those willing to tackle it. Solid holds all the way. | V1 | 4m | |||||
| 19 |
★★ 14 / Yacht Club
Another good crimpy little (or not so little) problem. Either finish at the break, continue up past the obvious feature, or join problem #13. FA: Unknown | V1 | 4m | |||||
| 20 |
★ 15
Start up the centre of the wall and traverse the breaks leftwards to finish on the arête. FA: Unknown | V0 | 4m | |||||
| 21 |
Petros Problem
Starting to the left of the dirty streak make your way straight up to the broken rock. The broken rock has a bit of movement in it so use caution. FA: Petro Semeniuk, 2012 | V1 | 4m | |||||
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 22 |
20
Just to the right of the yellow streak. | V0- | 4m | |||||
| 23 |
Stick Your Foot In.
Start at the corner crack to the right of problem titled 15. Start with a foot jam and head on up. Can be topped out. Tracciata: GChris, 2013 FA: GChris, 2013 | V1 | 4m | |||||
| 24 |
Black Pearls
In the middle of the boulder to the left of Three storey Rock, go up the right tending flake, then leave the flake to go left passing two slopey crimpers and top out as for Stick Your Foot In. FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 25 Apr 2016 | V4 | 4m | |||||
| 25 |
23
As for Black Pearls but when the flake runs out follow the horizontal seam to the right and finish up Three Storey Rock | V0- | 4m | |||||
| 26 |
Three Storey Rock
Up the breaks then the sharp arête. Fun. FA: Unknown | V0 | 3m | |||||
 |
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 27 |
★ Training For Pipe Dreams
Walk past Three Storey Rock and step over a dead tree to find this 10m long traverse on various jugs. Start about 3 m right of the drain pipe that is on top of the boulder and keep moving left until the rock runs out. Rock looks crumbly but all the grey parts are pretty solid. FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 25 Apr 2016 | V2 | 2m | |||||
1.2.3. Pearl Bay Climbing 6 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Per lo più Arrampicata sportiva
Lat / Long: -33.810011, 151.244134
descrizione
This cliff line has seen better days. The protection has rusted away to blobs of steel which wouldn't hold a bolt plate let alone a fall.
Walking along the base of the cliff, and with eagle eyes on the look out, you can spot the few remaining rusted bolts that are still hanging from the rock. The best advice is to keep on walking and enjoy the bouldering.
avvicinamento
Making your way down Fig Tree Walk you'll come across a wooden bridge on your right hand side just before the beach. Follow this path along the base of the cliff line to discover (if you can) The Pearl Bay Climbs. You can descend from this path from above The Overhanging Boulder. Good luck identifying which rusted bolts belong to which climbs.
/20/16/2016042e4dd73c60867ea6386e0ba33193ed082f)  |
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Chubberoo
Behind the dinghies in the jungle. Up gritty, grey rock, BR, BB. FA: Julian McGee, Alex McGee & early 1990s | 18 | 5m | |||||
| 2 |
Lemon Fresh
Initialled, further down track. Up past BR on orange rock. FA: Julian McGee, Alex McGee & Early 1990s | 24 | 5m | |||||
| 3 |
A
Left of LF is a hard overhanging seam with 2 BRs, as yet unclimbed (1991). | 5m | ||||||
|
The next 3 routes are on a wall above a paint-splattered slab near the end of the track. | ||||||||
| 5 |
★★ Hulio's Intrepid Exploits
Initialled. R at BR, up past another BRand bulge to tree belay. FA: Julian McGee, Alex Hill & Early 1990s | 20 | 10m | |||||
| 6 |
★★ Convulsive Eggplant
Initialled start, L of HIE. Up and dyno to BR with fixed hanger. Mantle, move left then up and right (2 BRs one with fixed hanger) to tree. FA: Julian McGee & Early 1990s | 26 | 10m | |||||
| 7 |
★ Rumpole
Juggy wall (2 BRs). FA: Julian McGee, Alex McGee & Early 1990s | 17 | 9m | |||||
1.3. Castle Rock Beach 4 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Deep Water Soloing e Bouldering
Lat / Long: -33.812655, 151.259721
1.3.1. Castle Rock 1 route in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Tutti Bouldering
Lat / Long: -33.811698, 151.259016
descrizione
The huge freestanding boulder on the beach
 |
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★ Battlement traverse | V1 | 4m | |||||
1.3.2. Oyster inlet 3 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Tutti Deep Water Soloing
Lat / Long: -33.814025, 151.260240
descrizione
An amazing little series of overhanging/vertical deep water solo routes. Crystal clear water and superb sandy seafloor landings also make this spot a moderately popular jump rock. Come at peak high tide, else risk falling into knee-deep water or straight onto sand
avvicinamento
Parking on Cutler Rd: Swim from the beach featured on the index (about 100m) or walk along the rocks.
Parking at the end of Barabrooka St: Follow the Barabrooka Track until you hit the intersection for the Lighthouse Track. Turn right towards Castle Rock Beach. Keep an eye out on your left for a rough trail leading down to the water - this will take you to the marked climbs.
 |
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★★ Paradiso
On the obvious high vertical wall. Head straight up via the huge pocket cut into the wall. Helps if you're tall! Best done shoeless | 18 | 6m | |||||
| 2 |
★ Oyster arete
Don't cheat the top out! go straight over the left side of the most overhanging point of the arete. Watch out for choss | 15 | 5m | |||||
| 3 |
★ Hook and beachedwhale
The overhanging rock on the far left side of the inlet (facing into the shore) just before landings start getting dicey | 17 | 5m | |||||
1.4. Parriwi Road Mosman 2 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Tutti Arrampicata trad
Lat / Long: -33.808991, 151.247587
sommario
A couple of small pieces of rock with a couple of extinct routes.
avvicinamento
Turn onto Parriwi Road, Mosman, and park anywhere along the straight section with a steep drop on one side and cutting on the other.
1.4.1. The Slab 1 route in Area
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -33.809717, 151.247187
sommario
Slab below the road.
descrizione
A broken slab of sandstone about ten metres wide, buried in lantana, vines and thick trees.
The bush below and to the sides of the slab is steep and carpeted in garbage - apparently Parriwi Road is the place to come if you don't want to pay tipping fees.
The slab itself is mossy and overgrown. The one route described has disappeared in the forest.
avvicinamento
The slab is difficult to spot from the road. At one point on the downhill side of the road, the handrail is interrupted to allow a rock to poke through. This is the top of the slab. Walking downhill on the road from this point, a high fence is on your right for about 10 m. At the end of this fence, hop over the handrail and follow an indistinct track directly under the rock heading back towards the slab. Pick your way through the garbage to the bottom of the slab.
The slab can also be accessed from the beach below, if you can find a way down there.
/e8/ba/e8ba0230c9945e59aa35fac0d4aa3b1d66cc6534)  |
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★ Rebirth of the Cool
Route on the right hand side of the slab. Broken slab with nice holds on the head wall. Most of this climb has been engulfed in vines and tree foliage. A rotting fixed line at the base of the slab (on the climber's right) presumably marks the original start of this climb. An ancient carrot in the centre of the head wall shows previous unrecorded climbing activity. FA: Nick Reese, 2008 | 15 | 25m | |||||
1.4.2. Top Side Boulders 1 route in Area
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -33.808159, 151.247992
sommario
A collection of short, broken, slabby rocks directly above the road.
avvicinamento
The boulders can be accessed by scrambling up from the road, but it is sketchy and a fall will land you in the traffic on a blind corner.
A better way to get to them is from the walking track at the top. This begins up the hill, right before the houses begin. Follow it back down the hill on top of the cliffs, past the scout hall, to the top of the boulders.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Captains Crack
One of the cracks in the boulders, who knows which? FA: Nick Reese | 16 | 8m | |||
