1 - 100 di 213 ascensioni.
Grado | Via | Stile equipaggiamento | Qualità | Arrampicatore | Data | |||
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Wilder Kaiser Prügelwand Westwand | ||||||||
7b 7a+/b | High Street | Dom 8 Mag 2022 | ||||||
Bolting, cleaning, and ascending, all in one day.
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Wilder Kaiser Saubichl Kaffeeplatte | ||||||||
7b | ★★★ Mad Max | 18m | ★★★ Mega Classica | Mer 28 Giu 2017 | ||||
Am Saubiche sind die Tourn einfach der Obahammer
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Wilder Kaiser Saubichl Gach Truckn | ||||||||
6a | ★★ Littl Pumpriss - con Jakob | 15m | ★★ Molto buona | Gio 29 Dic 2022 | ||||
Kräftiger Einstieg
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6c ~6c+ | ★★★ Rass 7.en — 2 tentativi - con Jakob | 15m | ★★★ Classica | Gio 29 Dic 2022 | ||||
Rass!
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7a | ★★★ Un Cappucino | 18m | Dom 19 Giu 2016 | |||||
7a | ★★★ Un Cappucino | 18m | Dom 19 Giu 2016 | |||||
7b+ | ★★★ Zwischen Tür und Angel | 15m | Mar 20 Giu 2017 | |||||
7b+ | ★★★ Zwischen Tür und Angel | 15m | Mar 20 Giu 2017 | |||||
6c+ | Schnudli Wudli Eichi Ins Futli | 20m | Sab 20 Mag 2017 | |||||
#2go Der Name ist das Beste an der Tour 🤮
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6c+ | ★★★ Stamina Maxima | 15m | ★★★ Classica | Lun 15 Mag 2017 | ||||
6a+ | Secrets of tantra | 15m | Media | Lun 15 Mag 2017 | ||||
6a+ | ★ Like a Rolling Stone rechts | 15m | Lun 15 Mag 2017 | |||||
Top Fit im 3.Go bezwungen 😛
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Wilder Kaiser Saubichl Alter Garten | ||||||||
6b | ★★★ Luftikus | 20m | ★★★ Mega Classica | Lun 9 Apr 2018 | ||||
#2go Vom Stand 'Diskus' (ca.40m) nach rechts unten abseilen bis zum Einstieg (2 Klebehaken)
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6c | ★★★ Kleiner Überhang Ausstiegsvariante | 35m | ★★★ Mega Classica | Dom 8 Apr 2018 | ||||
#2go Mega irre geile Linie 😍
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6c+ | ★★★ Nudlaug | 32m | ★★★ Mega Classica | Sab 7 Apr 2018 | ||||
#2go Vorm 'Kleinen Überhang' nach links oben bis zum ersten Stand
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Wilder Kaiser Schleierwasserfall D - rechter Sektor | ||||||||
7a | ★ Henkel trocken | 30m | Media | Ven 4 Set 2020 | ||||
climbing on nice big pockets. Very dirty and a little chossy at times
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Wilder Kaiser Schleierwasserfall Hauptsektor | ||||||||
6b | ★★ Evergreen | 25m | ★★ Molto buona | Sab 19 Mar 2016 | ||||
6b on the guide... for sure it's more 6c for people under 2 tall.. #hard
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8b+ | ★★★ Happy Biceps to you (Happy Bizeps to you) | 30m | ★★★ Classica | Dom 27 Giu 2010 | ||||
The BEST!
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8c 8b+ | ★★★ Happy Biceps to you (Happy Bizeps To You) | 30m | ★★★ Classica | Mer 4 Giu 1997 | ||||
ohne kneebar am ersten schüttler auf jeden fall 8c coco
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8b+ | ★★★ Happy Biceps to you (Happy Bizeps To You) | 30m | ★★★ Mega Classica | Sab 30 Mag 2020 | ||||
Ahh I just love this place. So many 5 star lines! This is just one among them! What a beauty! Glad to get it done in 3 tries. So I get to try the next kingline sooner!
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8c+ | ★★★ Gambit | 35m | ★★★ Classica | Dom 17 Mag 2020 | ||||
Such a good one! 3rd Go.
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8a+ | ★★★ Damengambit | 20m | ★★★ Classica | Sab 1 Ott 2005 | ||||
super route with an hard end
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8a+ | ★★★ Damengambit | 20m | ★★★ Mega Classica | Sab 22 Feb 2020 | ||||
My favourite at Schleier so far! Loving this grey sharp rock with its beautiful pockets:) during the 2nd try my hook slip and got caught in the rope which led to a pretty scary fall feet above the head but nothing seriously happened and I could send it half an hour later:)
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8a+ | ★★★ Damengambit | 20m | ★★★ Mega Classica | Dom 10 Gen 2021 | ||||
half onsight, half flash
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7c+ | ★★★ Slippery when wet | 25m | ★★★ Mega Classica | Sab 6 Mar 2021 | ||||
7 sessions, 20 goes. Finally, hardest route to date. Beautiful line. In the end it was an endurance problem. Last week I fell from the last hold. I couldn't believe it. This week I finally managed to keep it together and send. In the end my strategy to avoid getting pumped was to just speed up. I only chalked twice after the rest. I did the entry from (Damen)Gambit it is way nicer this way and not wet all the time.
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7c+ | ★★★ Herzerl | 15m | ★★★ Classica | Lun 2 Nov 2020 | ||||
Basically flash but did the left one before which shares the same end and had been fallen at the very first move once which has been the hardest for little me;)
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7c | ★★ Zwergerlaufstand | 15m | ★★ Molto buona | Sab 24 Ott 2020 | ||||
#2go Better than it looks but the hardest part is clipping the 4th draw which makes it a bit annoying;) super close onsight and grounder...
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7c | ★★ Zwergerlaufstand | 15m | Dom 29 Mag 2022 | |||||
Next warmup/cooldown project done. Figuring out how to clip the 4th draw was the crux. Moves are really good, way better than it looks.
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7b | ★★★ Black Jack | 20m | ★★ Molto buona | Mer 16 Dic 2020 | ||||
Took me 3 sessions. Always fell on the upper part with the pockets. The lower part felt quite easy (but draining). Entrance boulder is probably easier when you are tall. Approx. 8 goes.
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7b | ★★★ Black Jack | 20m | ★★★ Mega Classica | Sab 8 Feb 2020 | ||||
Richtig guade kletterei an schenen löchern!
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7c | ★★★ Tequilla Sunrise (Tequila sunrise) | 20m | Lun 17 Ago 2015 | |||||
7c | ★★★ Tequilla Sunrise (Tequila sunrise) | 20m | ★★★ Mega Classica | Dom 23 Feb 2020 | ||||
Always wanted to climb this one but the first few meters looked so hard that I've never overcane myself to try it... super proud to hace onsighted this classic in the end!
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7c | ★★★ Tequilla Sunrise | 20m | Ven 6 Mag 2022 | |||||
No preclip. Nice shoulder moves
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7a+ | ★★ Gulag | 20m | ★★★ Mega Classica | Sab 8 Feb 2020 | ||||
#2go Alz flash; letztes Jahr scho mol probiert und ned übern 4. Haken kemma und jetzt mit Stirnlampe iwie drübergrettet;)
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9a+ | FA Open Air | 25m | 1996 | |||||
FFA.
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8c+ 9a | ★★★ Black Power | 25m | ★★★ Classica | Gio 3 Nov 2022 | ||||
8c+/9a
Such a good one, very cool boulder problem at the lip!
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7c+ | ★★★ Ziag oder Fliag | Ven 10 Giu 2022 | ||||||
WTF. 3rd go first 7c+ in one session (I knew the start already). WHAT A FIGHT. Felt like falling at every move. I had to shake at every hold thinking to myself - one more move and then I can let go.
I used the knee bar. Probably a far reach/hard move if you lack the height - so quite morpho I think. Without pre-clip
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7c+ Dura | ★★★ Ziag oder Fliag | ★★★ Mega Classica | Dom 3 Mar 2024 | |||||
Absoluter Traum ✨
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7c | ★★★ Ziag o | 18m | ★★★ Classica | Dom 4 Apr 2021 | ||||
4/5 sessions. Funky climbing. No-hand kneebar into jam-your-foot-above-your-head into throw to hold from underclings. Really nice. With a spicy middle part and a nice enjoyable easy top part.
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7c | ★★★ Ziag o | 18m | ★★★ Mega Classica | Dom 10 Feb 2019 | ||||
#2go Einfach nur sau geil und steil mit mega coolen bewegungen:)) richtig unerwartet nachm ausbouldern glei gangen aba war knapp wie numml was!
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8a | ★★★ Have fun on top | 18m | Dom 27 Ago 2006 | |||||
7
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8a | ★★★ Have fun on top | 18m | ★★★ Mega Classica | Sab 24 Ott 2020 | ||||
Bouldery polished classic! Took me about 6 tries to find all micro-beta for connecting all the powerful moves from the ground on; the kneebar higher up is still the best part;) fun fact: numero 100 of the grade
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8a+ 8a+/b | ★★ Cool your foot man | 20m | ★★ Molto buona | Dom 30 Mar 2008 | ||||
8a+/8b
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8a+ 8a+/b | ★★ Cool your foot man | 20m | ★★ Molto buona | Dom 28 Lug 2019 | ||||
cool boulder at the start. felt tired after a long day. 2nd go from the start, but had done the top before while doing Terrorist
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8a+ 8a+/b | ★★ La pulce d'aqua | 20m | ★★ Molto buona | Dom 20 Lug 2008 | ||||
messed up at the on sight try
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9a | ★★★ Weiße Rose | 25m | ★★★ Mega Classica | Mar 28 Apr 2020 | ||||
3rd Ascent. Opened by Alex Huber in 1994 (when I was 3 years old). Psyched to climb such a fantastic and legendary route!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KskvEEi-m9s&t=17s
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9a | FA ★★★ Weiße Rose | 25m | 1994 | |||||
FFA.
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8a+ | ★★★ White winds | 20m | ★★★ Classica | Dom 30 Mar 2008 | ||||
need more endurance! was like a onsight
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8a+ | ★★★ White winds | 20m | Dom 30 Lug 2006 | |||||
inner counter is on 3
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8a+ | ★★★ White winds | 20m | ★★★ Mega Classica | Dom 9 Feb 2020 | ||||
Soo hard and polished but the climbing is simply incredibly good! Really happy to have sent this classic within 3 tries:))
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8c | Fight club — 15 tentativi | 18m | Mer 27 Set 2023 | |||||
Finally!
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8a | ★★ Nirwana | 20m | Sab 23 Ott 2021 | |||||
Approximately 4 sessions around 10 goes. Really nice moves, but doesn't look as nice. Feels like 8a to me but it is hard to judge because both the crux and the overall style of the route suites me VERY well (so, could also be 8a+). It's hard to imagine a route which plays to my strengths more than this. Around 7b route to very good rest followed by a morpho boulder pulling from an undercling to a far away hold. The boulder is probably easier the taller you are.
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8a | ★★ Nirwana — 2 tentativi | 20m | ★★ Molto buona | Lun 28 Nov 2022 | ||||
7b | ★★ Überraschung | 20m | ★★★ Mega Classica | Sab 9 Feb 2019 | ||||
#2go Soo.speckig dass ma des gefühl hat glei aus jedem henkel zum rutschen... Aba was gibts geileres als mitten im winter in da sonne nur mit sport bh zum klettern:) und des erste mal dass i zwei mal in ner route gesprungen bin weils dann iwie kraftsparender war;)
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7b | ★★ Überraschung | 20m | Dom 19 Dic 2021 | |||||
3rd go.
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7b | ★★ Überraschung | 20m | ★★★ Classica | Sab 25 Mag 2024 | ||||
Pumpig
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7b+ | ★★★ Kinderüberraschung | 18m | ★★★ Mega Classica | Sab 22 Feb 2020 | ||||
#2go Alz onsight; tried it already last winter but was miles away from doing this dynamic move at the start... massive "kaltpump" to the chains!
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7b | ★★★ Hitchhiker | 18m | ★★★ Mega Classica | Dom 10 Feb 2019 | ||||
#2go Nice powerful boulder at the beginning with a pumpy finish! Nur den start kurz ausgebouldert und dann glei vom anfang an durchklettert:)
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7b+ | ★★★ Karo Bua (Karo pur) | 18m | ★★★ Mega Classica | Dom 10 Feb 2019 | ||||
#2go Pumped as hell!! Tricky and crimpy boulder start:) und danke an timo fürs geduldige sichern und de geile zeit, hoffentlich wirds bald a mal numml was:)
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8b+ | ★★★ Wassermusik | 40m | ★★★ Mega Classica | Mar 19 Mag 2020 | ||||
THE line at Schleier Wasserfall!! definitely a special feeling climbing on such a high exposed wall with the sound of the waterfall just behind your back. Felt too hard for 8b+ to me. actually struggled more than on Mercy Street or Resistance...
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8a+ | ★★ Damenchaos — 3 tentativi | Sab 20 Mag 2023 | ||||||
First day climbing outside after 3 months of injury. Before that only ski-mo and bouldering. Good to be back.
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8a+ 8a+/b | ★★★ Wellenreiter | 25m | ★★ Molto buona | Dom 6 Ott 2019 | ||||
#2go Cool climbing. Even got a perfect hand jam at the start.
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8a+ 8a+/b | ★★★ Wellenreiter | 25m | ★★★ Mega Classica | Dom 23 Feb 2020 | ||||
#2go Dreamroute for undercling-lovers but I rather hate them;) anyway superb powerful line with some biuldery sequences!
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8b | ★★★ Heinzelmännchen | 20m | ★★★ Classica | Dom 20 Lug 2008 | ||||
1st go, but did try another route with same beginning
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8b | ★★★ Heinzelmännchen | 20m | ★★★ Mega Classica | Dom 25 Ott 2020 | ||||
The most unexpected send since quite a while of this rather antistyle (what motivated me even more) kingline finishing in the baththub again:) felt impossible the first try by not even doing the single moves, directly managed a one hang in the late afternoon the following day, felt tired but Kevin encouraged me to give it another try which somehow was the send already! All about the mind once again:) thx Pauli as well for giving me some light with your headlamp from the ground to find the chains
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8c+ | ★★★ Das Erbe der Väter | 30m | ★★★ Classica | Dom 27 Giu 2010 | ||||
Amazing line! 2nd Go this year, 3rd in total...
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6a+ | ★ Quälgeist | 15m | ★★★ Mega Classica | Sab 9 Feb 2019 | ||||
Erste tour an dem wunderscheeenen ort,aba die beliebheit lässt si leida glei am glänzend polierten fels erkennen... Trotzdem sau geile lochkletterei!
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6a+ | ★ Quälgeist - con Klara R | 15m | ★ Buona | Dom 25 Feb 2024 | ||||
Better than Al Capone. Polished, but did somehow not matter too much
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6a+ ~6b | ★ Quälgeist - con Fabian Michel | 15m | ★ Buona | Sab 2 Mar 2024 | ||||
gruselige Stelle am dritten Haken. Weil alles so polished ist, kann man locker 6b dazu sagen oder 6b+.
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7a+ | ★ Permanent Vacation | 18m | Dom 9 Feb 2020 | |||||
Kloana boulda in da mitte der si aba ganz guad auflöst:)
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7a | ★★★ Flower Power | 18m | ★★★ Mega Classica | Dom 9 Feb 2020 | ||||
Soo polished but the moves are nice in the upper part:)
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6b+ | ★ Al Capone | 18m | Media | Dom 19 Lug 2020 | ||||
Al Speckone
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6b+ | ★ Al Capone | 18m | ★★★ Mega Classica | Sab 8 Feb 2020 | ||||
Tricky verschneidung oben und yeaaah endlich wieda kurze hosen wetter:)
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6b+ | ★ Al Capone - con Klara R | 18m | Media | Dom 18 Feb 2024 | ||||
Quite polished, not so good compared to the other routes here. First bolt is a bit high, you can basically only clip it after having done one of the hardest moves of the route.
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6b | ★ Vorbeibanklhupfa | 18m | Pessima | Dom 19 Lug 2020 | ||||
speck!
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6b | ★ Vorbeibanklhupfa | 18m | ★★ Molto buona | Gio 7 Nov 2019 | ||||
Polished but still enjoyed it.
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6b | ★ Vorbeibanklhupfa | 18m | ★★★ Mega Classica | Dom 10 Feb 2019 | ||||
Tricky start in die verschneidung mit genusskletterei obenraus wen ma mal des speckige nicht beachtet...
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6b | ★ Vorbeibanklhupfa - con Fabian Michel | 18m | ★ Buona | Sab 2 Mar 2024 | ||||
Unten die Verschneidung ist schmierig und nicht zu empfehlen. Obenraus besser, aber ich bin kein Fan.
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8a | ★★★ Helpless | ★★★ Classica | Lun 2 Nov 2020 | |||||
Pretty good and not that polished like the neighbouring ones yet:)
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6a+ | ★★ Chocolat (Chocolate) | 18m | ★★★ Mega Classica | Dom 10 Feb 2019 | ||||
Schöne technische risskletterei mit a paar löcher zwischendurch:)
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6b+ | ★★ Art Rock | 18m | ★★★ Mega Classica | Sab 22 Feb 2020 | ||||
Guad bloß ned zum aufwärmen;)
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7b+ | ★★★ Calimero | 30m | ★★★ Mega Classica | Lun 4 Nov 2019 | ||||
Great route!
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7b+ | ★★★ Calimero | 30m | ★★★ Mega Classica | Mer 23 Dic 2020 | ||||
Third session. Maybe around 8 goes. First try in second session felt like i could never do the crux after coming from the ground. But already the try afterwards was surprisingly good. Today it went down thrid go after being not warm enough in the first and not finding the footholds and completely fucking up the second go or to put it in Pawel's words "That was bullshit!". Finally third go was the one although the last moves over the lip felt extremely hard again.
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7b+ | ★★★ Calimero | 30m | ★★★ Mega Classica | Sab 24 Ott 2020 | ||||
Still pretty wet which gave the final commiting move some extra spice;)
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7c | ★★ La Reina de las Putas | 20m | ★★ Molto buona | Gio 31 Dic 2020 | ||||
First 7c. Definitely on the soft side. 6 goes (incl. checking out the moves) 2 full sessions. I found the lower part not as easy as others seem to find it. Did the two finger pocket into far move. Rested long at the resting spot. The left toe hook is really important and I am tall enough to keep it in until i get both hands on the crimps. Then I simultaneously let go of the toe hook (left) and jump (with hands and right foot) to jug. The undercling move over the lip is not so easy if you are tall (I think). In total a very nice route with an interesting crux sequence.
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7a | ★★ El Gringo | 20m | ★★★ Mega Classica | Sab 24 Ott 2020 | ||||
Finally back at the most besutiful place on earth!!!
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9a | ★★ Fugu | 25m | ★★ Molto buona | Ven 9 Ott 2020 | ||||
3rd ascent of this cool line in the upper sector. Took me 4 tries to send it. Thanks for the good times Guido!
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8b 8c+ | ★★ Orca | 25m | ★★ Molto buona | Lun 2 Nov 2020 | ||||
Originally the route was graded 8c+ by first ascentionist Alex Huber but the right hand hold he used on the crux move is basically gone and Adam Ondra found a new beta using a left hand tiny crimp to do the second ascent. I found a way better solution using a good side pull just left of Adam‘s crimp which lets me go directly to the finishing jug. Since this route is pretty much easy except this only move, the whole thing is much easier with my beta now, probably around 8b 😅
It climbs very nicely this way though so I definitely recommend it to people (>170cm) 😉
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6c+ | ★★★ Herbstzeitlose | 20m | ★★★ Mega Classica | Dom 23 Feb 2020 | ||||
I glaub der wind fand dass i heid zu dreckig war und hat mia den wasserfall öfter genauso hingweht dass i a komplette dusche kriag;)
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Wilder Kaiser Schleierwasserfall Graue Wand | ||||||||
7c+ | ★★★ Buffalo Soldier | 20m | ★★★ Classica | Dom 4 Ott 2020 | ||||
great route! actually wanted to do Buffalo Bill but I missed the left exit... didn`t regret it though!
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7c+ | ★★★ Buffalo Soldier | 20m | ★★★ Mega Classica | Dom 17 Lug 2022 | ||||
If you happen to be here when this route is dry (which is almost never the case), you must try it. It is amazing! Did it with kneepad and nohand kneebar in the middle. Nevertheless, I got sooooo pumped in the easy top out on the best jugs you could think of.
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8c 8c to 8c+ | ★★★ Resistance (Least Resistance) | 30m | ★★★ Classica | Sab 5 Lug 2008 | ||||
super nice
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8c 8c to 8c+ | ★★★ Resistance | 30m | ★★★ Mega Classica | Gio 7 Nov 2019 | ||||
Great route! Burly intro Boulder into powerful resistance climbing. Fell so stupidly on one of the last harder moves on my second go. And when we got back three days after, the boulder was quite wet. But I somhow made it work
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8c | ★★★ Mercy Street | 25m | ★★ Molto buona | Mar 28 Apr 2020 | ||||
'Retro Flash' which means I briefly tried it a few years ago and climbed it 1st go now (not remembering anything). Thanks for the beta Misha! Fun route!!
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8c | ★★★ Mercy Street | 25m | ★★★ Mega Classica | Dom 26 Apr 2020 | ||||
Kingline!! Such a great route from Geri!! On to the next
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8c+ | ★★★ Lichtjahre | 25m | Set 2020 | |||||
3rd try, maybe 8c+/9a
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8c+ | ★★★ Lichtjahre | 25m | ★★★ Classica | Dom 4 Ott 2020 | ||||
After a relaxed breakfast at my girlfriend’s parents place, we drove to Schleierwasserfall and I warmed up with a 7c route. My buddy Mischa Piccolruaz tried the route Lichtjahre and so I was able to watch him closely and get a good impression of the route.
I was psyched to give it a go as well and after Mischa convinced me I should even try to flash it, I warmed up at the fingerboard and went through the route mentally before I attempted it. The route went really well, I loved the style and I felt on top of my game so I could flash it pretty solidly. It always takes two, though, to achieve a flash: someone who does the work and checks out the route and then is able to talk you through. It was Mischa who gave me such great support, thanks buddy! Lichtjahre is located in the grey sector of the Schleierwasserfall, where the routes are slightly shorter (about 20m), it's one of the best routes of the crag and I can only recommend it Right next to it there are a couple routes that I already knew, as for example Mercy Street which is pretty similar in style so I knew what to expect. A lot of sharp holds and quite difficult from the start. Some bouldery sections with long and powerful moves but good holds. Closer to the end you need to keep it together as it’s all about endurance. One of the trickier parts was where a big foot hold had broken away a few months ago. Many say the route got a lot harder since then. Even before it was a hard 8c, so it’s absolutely fair for Alex Megos to say it’s an 8c+ now. After flashing something it's always hard to grade it but I think 8c+ could be right, although it didn't feel much harder than Mercy Street for me, so one could argue it's still 8c, we will see what other people will say Due to my biceps tendon injury I had to adapt my training. Rock climbing proved great for my recovery, so I climbed a lot recently, improved my endurance and that’s why I feel super comfortable on the rocks these days. Psyche for more! |
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8c+ | ★★★ Lichtjahre | 25m | ★★★ Classica | Sab 7 Nov 2020 | ||||
What an amazing route! And what an amazing way to climb it.
I got to the crag knowing that it would be too hot to try Fugu again so the plan was to try Lichtjahre as my backup project. On the first try bouldering up trying to get the moves dialed I felt awful. My skin hurt already and I felt week. Nevertheless, I decided to give it a send go next try. Unfortunately, my foot slipped on one of the harder moves, but I started immediately again from a few moves lower and could top it from there. That really surprised me but also gave me a lot of confidence that I could actually send it. However I didn Perfect execution, the perfect moment!! One of those moments I will never forget and that gives me a huge motivation boost! Simply amazing! |
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8a+ | ★★★ Schrei aus Stein | 32m | ★★★ Mega Classica | Lun 4 Nov 2019 | ||||
#2go Felt hard, but probably my solution was not the best. At least the way I did it was pretty cool!
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8a | ★★★ Tanzbär | 25m | ★★★ Mega Classica | Gio 7 Nov 2019 | ||||
For sure a step up from Number "One direct". So either that one is easier or this one harder then 7b+... One of the best!
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