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Carrière de Durnal Guide

  • Contesto grado: FR
  • Foto: 4
  • Ascensioni: 784
  • Aka: Chansin

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Danny van Bruggen Support theCrag Kasper Jef Van Alsenoy Quentin Voisey Romain Longueville Koen Verhoeven Vincent

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Table of contents

1. Carrière de Durnal

Summary:

Lat / Long: 50.325948, 4.974272

sommario

Falaise idéale pour l’initiation. Rochers instables en partie gauche. Grande zone dégagée devant la falaise.

descrizione

Corde de 70m suffisante. Majorité des voies 20-25m maximum. A l’ombre à partir de 17h en été. Visité régulièrement par les écoles d’escalade. Fourth to sixth grade routes in a 100m wide former hard sandstone quarry, slightly 'hidden' surrounded by forest and trees. The official 2014 topo guide is available from most webshops. Routes that are not straight-up are drawn here on thecrag. Route names in large (rather unfortunate) blue capitals.

limitazioni per l'accesso

ereditato da Belgium

avvicinamento

(50.325218, 4.975757) Parking by car is only allowed on a flattened area outside the last 180° bend before reaching the hamlet Chansin on the road from Dorinne to Durnal. The crag is reached by following the road downhill, then a gravel track to the left when level with the train station. Cross a small bridge over the stream, then go up a few wooden steps on the right 50m before the tunnel.

Sluipweg Durnal afgesloten:
https://www.klimenbergsportfederatie.be/nieuws/sluipweg-durnal-afgesloten?fbclid=IwAR0HwGYFbaVn2Z9hMunbcmhEw5C3x8FSUglFEbgNZB0km2BMDLQbQh4m5Vk

dove alloggiare

Camping du Bocq, Purnode

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 't Is de mijnen 3c Sportiva 30m, 6
2 Bocq 4a Sportiva 30m, 6
3 Yourte 4a Sportiva 30m, 6
4 Rage 2 with the machine 3b Sportiva 30m, 5
5 Wietman 5a+ Sportiva 35m, 6
6 Xena 5a Sportiva 35m, 6
7 2 bis 5a Sportiva
8 Rage 1 with the machine

Tracciata: Stef Laevaert

4a+ Sportiva 35m, 5
9 Whiskey Berber 4c Sportiva 35m, 9
10 Rupsknoop 4b Sportiva 30m
11 Biefstuk en Scampi's 4b Sportiva 25m, 6
12 Gecko 4a Sportiva 20m, 7
13 Gandalf 3c Sportiva 35m, 6
14 Aragorn

https://youtu.be/jidMYTysY2s

4a+ Sportiva 35m, 8
15 Kiley Rules 4b Sportiva 35m, 8
16 I have no idea 3c Sportiva 35m, 8
17 I have no idea - linker variant 3c Sportiva 35m, 8
18 Kindervreugd

Avvertimento Accesso: You need 10 clips

4a Sportiva 35m, 10
19 Blue Eyes 4a Sportiva 35m, 8
20 Hippo Campus 4b Sportiva 35m, 8
21 Jipke 4a+ Sportiva 35m, 8
22 Pepijn 4c Sportiva 18m, 5
23 Merijn 4c Sportiva 18m, 6
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
24 Sam

https://youtu.be/8Pcu8DRibGg

5a Sportiva 18m, 8
25 Frodo 5b Sportiva 18m, 6
26 Smeagol 5b Sportiva 18m, 7
27 Smeagol, variante gauche

Zonder behaking. Pas équipé.

6a Sportiva 18m
28 Kriek

https://youtu.be/OEbK9O4SWVE

4b Sportiva 25m, 7
29 Palm 4c Sportiva 25m, 8
30 Double palm 4c Sportiva 25m
31 Jupiler

4c jusqu’en 2013 (éboulement du départ)

6a+ Sportiva 30m, 8
32 Chimay

5a jusqu’en 2013 (éboulement du départ).

6b Sportiva 30m, 9
33 Rochefort

5a jusqu’en 2013 (éboulement du départ).

6b Sportiva 30m, 9
34 Hoegie

5b+ jusqu’en 2013 (éboulement du départ).

6a+ Sportiva 30m, 10
35 Orval 5c Sportiva 30m, 9
36 Ciney

Tracciata: Koen Hauchecorne

5c+ Sportiva 30m, 9
37 Duvel

30m de pur plaisir. Incontournable.

5b Sportiva 30m, 8
38 Le bloc coincé 5b Sportiva 30m, 9
39 La prise taillée

Morpho à la prise taillée (<1,65m = jeté nécessaire). Deux sorties équipées : sortie vers la droite (vers relais Bloc Coincé = 5b/5c), vers la gauche (sortie directe = 5c/5c+).

5c Sportiva 25m, 9
40 La Prise Taillée - sortie directe

Variante de sortie gauche (directe)

5c Sportiva 25m, 9
41 Le trou foré

Tracciata: Koen Hauchecorne

5c Sportiva 25m, 7
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
42 Le surplomb malaisé

One of the more vertical and even parts of the Durnal wall, one 5c move at about 5 meters altitude and a fishy part near the end.

Tracciata: Koen Hauchecorne

5c Sportiva 25m, 7
43 Le dièdre caché

Morpho. Prise taillée trop haut à la sortie (pas infaisable pour les petites tailles).

Tracciata: Koen Hauchecorne

5a+ Sportiva 25m, 8
44 Elisa 5a+ Sportiva 25m, 7
45 Noeni 5a+ Sportiva 35m, 8
46 Motorhead 4c Sportiva 35m, 7
47 Golden Brown 4c Sportiva 35m, 7
48 Grimsel 4c Sportiva 35m, 6
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
49 Hé-Hé 4b Sportiva 35m, 7
50 't is woawa da je zegt 5a Sportiva 35m, 8
51 Koncordia / Konkordia

Voie sur blocs instables. A faire avec un bon karma (le vrai karma).

5a+ Sportiva 27m, 7
52 Ode a min moaten

Dernière protection et relais commun avec Atomic.

5a Sportiva 27m, 8
53 Atomic

Dernière protection et relais commun avec Ode a min moaten.

https://youtu.be/UcG7mxVvRcI

5a Sportiva 27m, 9
54 't Promilleke

Tracciata: Jan Willems & François Collin

5a Sportiva 30m, 8
55 Art-choque

https://youtu.be/A7vLdJTUJLc

Tracciata: Jan Willems & François Collin

5b+ Sportiva 30m, 8
56 't Schoon verdiep

Sortie directe plus logique que le crochet à gauche au-dessus de Pilou.

5a Sportiva 30m, 8
57 Pilou 5a Sportiva 30m, 9
58 Traversette

https://youtu.be/u2CU2Old0_8

5b+ Sportiva 30m, 10
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
59 Napjaar / Nabjaar 4c Sportiva 30m, 10
60 Pata Negra / Patta Negra

https://youtu.be/YQSr1c7ybbM

Tracciata: Jan Willems & François Collin

5a Sportiva 30m, 9
61 Oladiladilo 5a Sportiva 30m, 8
62 Nietzsche of Welles?

The route starts off with a really cool 6a move to pass the small roof structure. The move requires an extensive reach, after that it's really easy and most certainly not 6a material.

6a+ Sportiva 30m, 7
63 Cinq pitons pour mon ami 6b Sportiva 35m, 5
64 Pierre 5b Sportiva 30m, 7
65 Kafka of Kaka ? 5a+ Sportiva 35m, 6
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
66 't Simultaantje

Tracciata: Géza Toth

3c Sportiva 35m, 8
67 Beaufort 4c Sportiva 35m, 8
68 Het Bruin Wolfken 4b Sportiva 35m, 6
69 De Stinkenden Das

https://youtu.be/S5y3DsD3hDM

4c Sportiva 18m, 6
70 The Cosy Corner

Pas exposé à la 4ème broche (risque de chute sur plateforme).

5b Sportiva 30m, 8
71 The Corner 5b Sportiva 30m, 8
72 The real corner 6a Sportiva 25m, 8
73 Jip / J.I.P.

Tracciata: Istace & David Vierbergen

5b Sportiva 35m, 7
74 Janneke

Tracciata: David Vierbergen & Marc Michem

5b Sportiva 35m, 8
75 2 Jannen

#unknown

4a Sportiva

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
3b Rage 2 with the machine Sportiva 30m, 5
3c 't Is de mijnen Sportiva 30m, 6
't Simultaantje Sportiva 35m, 8
Gandalf Sportiva 35m, 6
I have no idea Sportiva 35m, 8
I have no idea - linker variant Sportiva 35m, 8
4a 2 Jannen Sportiva
Blue Eyes Sportiva 35m, 8
Bocq Sportiva 30m, 6
Gecko Sportiva 20m, 7
Kindervreugd Sportiva 35m, 10
Yourte Sportiva 30m, 6
4a+ Aragorn Sportiva 35m, 8
Jipke Sportiva 35m, 8
Rage 1 with the machine Sportiva 35m, 5
4b Biefstuk en Scampi's Sportiva 25m, 6
Het Bruin Wolfken Sportiva 35m, 6
Hippo Campus Sportiva 35m, 8
Hé-Hé Sportiva 35m, 7
Kiley Rules Sportiva 35m, 8
Kriek Sportiva 25m, 7
Rupsknoop Sportiva 30m
4c Beaufort Sportiva 35m, 8
De Stinkenden Das Sportiva 18m, 6
Double palm Sportiva 25m
Golden Brown Sportiva 35m, 7
Grimsel Sportiva 35m, 6
Merijn Sportiva 18m, 6
Motorhead Sportiva 35m, 7
Napjaar Sportiva 30m, 10
Palm Sportiva 25m, 8
Pepijn Sportiva 18m, 5
Whiskey Berber Sportiva 35m, 9
5a 't Promilleke Sportiva 30m, 8
't Schoon verdiep Sportiva 30m, 8
't is woawa da je zegt Sportiva 35m, 8
2 bis Sportiva
Atomic Sportiva 27m, 9
Ode a min moaten Sportiva 27m, 8
Oladiladilo Sportiva 30m, 8
Pata Negra Sportiva 30m, 9
Pilou Sportiva 30m, 9
Sam Sportiva 18m, 8
Xena Sportiva 35m, 6
5a+ Elisa Sportiva 25m, 7
Kafka of Kaka ? Sportiva 35m, 6
Koncordia Sportiva 27m, 7
Le dièdre caché Sportiva 25m, 8
Noeni Sportiva 35m, 8
Wietman Sportiva 35m, 6
5b Duvel Sportiva 30m, 8
Frodo Sportiva 18m, 6
Janneke Sportiva 35m, 8
Jip Sportiva 35m, 7
Le bloc coincé Sportiva 30m, 9
Pierre Sportiva 30m, 7
Smeagol Sportiva 18m, 7
The Corner Sportiva 30m, 8
The Cosy Corner Sportiva 30m, 8
5b+ Art-choque Sportiva 30m, 8
Traversette Sportiva 30m, 10
5c La Prise Taillée - sortie directe Sportiva 25m, 9
La prise taillée Sportiva 25m, 9
Le surplomb malaisé Sportiva 25m, 7
Le trou foré Sportiva 25m, 7
Orval Sportiva 30m, 9
5c+ Ciney Sportiva 30m, 9
6a Smeagol, variante gauche Sportiva 18m
The real corner Sportiva 25m, 8
6a+ Hoegie Sportiva 30m, 10
Jupiler Sportiva 30m, 8
Nietzsche of Welles? Sportiva 30m, 7
6b Chimay Sportiva 30m, 9
Cinq pitons pour mon ami Sportiva 35m, 5
Rochefort Sportiva 30m, 9
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