Ascensioni in Bulgaria come Hang dog

You need good core, very strong fingers, and high friction for this one. The feet are polished and bad almost the entire route. A consistent V5 boulder problem from bottom to top. 3rd clip felt impossible to get without burning too much energy. Straight up brutal power endurance.

Had to hang at the crux to find the sequence. Not what I thought it was going to be! I think I made up my own tall-person beta 😂. That being said I can’t really justify 11c for this…11b at most since the entire grade is in that sequence. Sick route that deserves more attention.

Did not really enjoy it at all. Stupid crux on polished nothing holds and bad feet, to a massive rest on a hollow flake full of bats. Last move is really hard just like 2 routes to the left, and the anchor clip is a major pain in the ass. Not consistent at all grade-wise. No interest in losing any more skin on this one.

Hung draws and gave one burn after, high point was falling on the last RH pinch at the crux, when moving right foot high. Unlocked crucial beta for the 1st half to reduce pump

Had to hang at the crux to figure it out. I can’t tell if the giant flake ripped off before, or after it was FA’d. If it broke after then it makes sense why the crux is harder than 6b.

Once my partner and I both pulled the moves we agreed the crux felt 6c+ but the rest of the climb was quite a bit easier, apart from the final move that demands some power and commitment. 6c/+ but kind of short-lived difficulty compared to the left route.

If this route were any sicker you’d need to call an ambulance. Holy tits what a cool line. Relentlessly pumpy, core-intensive moves and no true rest besides a few shit kneebars if you’re lucky. Stoked to come back for this one and lose some more skin. Consistently more difficult moves than Triagalnikat and without any of the good rests

Really psyched on this route until I got to the upper crux moves and it’s so fucking hard and stupid. Like 4-star climbing turns into 1-star climbing. Best beta I found was 12c, followed by a massive runout that felt a bit unnecessary since there’s a ton of good rock for an extra bolt. Lost all my psych since it’s probably a dangerous close-to-ground fall if you happen to slip or lose balance on the ledge going to the next bolt.

Spicy V4 compression boulder. Took me a second to figure out the and and foot sequence. Biceps!!!

Really chill entry section followed by a balls-hard final crux move on thin and greasy slopers and weird edges. Once I found the foot beta it went and it was over but man that was quite a puzzle. Not worth doing again since the entire grade is just that one move.

Saw some locals trying it anf gave a flash try. Sometimes is better to trust your initial thoughts cause i saw them trying to do the crux from the right side that is a very hard beta and definitely not 6b+. Instead my thoughts where to stay on the direct to left side.

Colorful route 👌

I tried again on top rope but ran out of steam to make the crux clean.

First pitch

First pitch

Quite hard for the grade. I still could not get it clean on top rope.

Nice roof with stalactites to reach the top

On my 1st attempt I reached the top but fell off before clipping