Ascensioni in Portogallo come Hang dog

Balancy route with pinches on tiny crystals.

Very dirty with moss, although now a bit cleaner

First go to clip the draws and remove a lot of herbs that were on the route's jugs as the route probably has not been climbing since last winter. I also messed up the sequence and end up going to much to the right on the middle section.

Apenas a falhar o crux que tive de passar à frente, e outro move no qual já não restava forças. Toda a gente que vejo a fazer diz que no minimo esta via é um 6b ou 6b+ de grau.

6a in our guidebook. Bad warmup, both 6bs i did felt easier

Not a good cool down

Might be misunderstanding the route but direct accent is very hard

Amazing route! First part is easy but can get you pumped if not done perfectly since they are some big moves. After the 3rd draw the crux starts, the sequence for me was high left foot, cross left hand to pocket, switch feet and get a tiny right foot, and reach the ear like hold with the right hand, then raise right foot again to a small crack to bump the right hand to the hold right above which is a jug, and clip the draw there. Then there is another easier crux, going with left hand to a small and hidden but deep two finger pocket, and then a few more moves to reach the top. On my both attempts from the ground I feel on the left hand cross move.

Rainy day so not a lot of routes to choose from. Intense moves on bad holds. Good footholds though.

waiting for my time to lead

Incredible route with unique moves, worth a visit to Penha just for this route and Varanda dos Namorados in another sector. Sandbagged 6a or I must have missed something. Probably a 6a if you have the technique dialled in