Medicine Slab Tutte Alpinismo 1 via in area

Longest multi pitch in Jasper. Beautiful views, steep exposed climbing on variable rock. Generally, when the climbing gets hard, the rock quality improves. Marked alpine for the rock quality, length, and descent.

Northern Exposure guidebook has a good topo and approach beta. I am just adding some updates. Route finding was pretty easy with the descriptions provided.

All stations are now bolted (with the exception of the final pitch)

Pitch 7: 45M, 5.7R: Clip the first piton as you traverse along the horizontal break to the right. Up in the blocky, broken ground, there is a 2nd Piton hiding which substantially reduces the ground fall potential. A cam placement between the 2nd piton and the bolt should be sufficient to protect this pitch.

Pitch 10: Traverse left, placing gear (if required) until you see a bolt. Extend the bolt and begin climbing flakes, cracks and blocks on the right of the buttress. Ignore the old pitons in the middle of the face. Continue up to a big ledge and a belay station. This pitch had us simul-climbing for about 5 meters on a 70m rope.

Descent Beta: The descent is long and manageable. I had a hard time understanding the description in the guidebook. Essentially we traversed the knife-edge ridgeline to the west. Some simul-climbing, micro pitching and scrambling until we reached the far end of the ridge (approximatly 500m in length) There was some rap tat around a chossy block we used to rappel down onto the scree field on the north side of the gully. If you can get down earlier or easier than this, then I suspect it is not a problem; It just depends if you wish to traverse a ridge or scree.

Once on the scree field, pick your way down ~100m below the small, broken cliff line. At this point continue traversing right, below the cliff and above the large gullies. At some point you will reach a large scree field that you can follow the lower treeline (continuing right) to a smaller gully that will take you to join the hiking path. Walk back to the car. If in doubt, continue heading right.