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Prospect Crag

Stagionalità

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Sommario

Sandstone conglomerate cliff at the south end of Extension Ridge. Named after the Extension Prospect coal mine (operated from 1940-1947), the entrance to which lies just 100 meters south of the crag.

Descrizione

The rock here is highly featured in sections and nearly blank in others. Generally intermediate to advanced climbing. The rock quality is fairly solid by Nanaimo Sandstone Formation standards, with micro-pebble style conglomerate, similar to Sunny Side. Some sections of the ridge are comprised of poorly consolidated conglomerate - these have been left undeveloped. The crag base is situated very close to a popular, well established mountain bike trail so please avoid leaving gear on, or belaying from, the trail itself.

Limitazioni per l'accesso

As with the majority of the south Nanaimo area, this property is private and is owned by TimberWest/Mosaic. Several user groups recreate here - hikers, mountain bikers, professional dog walkers, dirt bikers - and have done so for many years without issue. Like other Mosaic properties that are used extensively by the public, continued access depends on responsible behaviour. Do not litter, leave graffiti, make campfires or cut down trees. Coexist peacefully with other user groups - we are all trespassing and no single group’s activity is any more or less righteous than the others.

Avvicinamento

If coming from Nanaimo, take Extension Road turnoff from the old island highway in Chase River and head south. Turn right onto Extension Road. Then turn right again onto Virostko Road. Stay on Virostko for about 500 meters, drive through a small neighbourhood (please drive slowly - lots of kids, dogs and farm animals) until the road turns to gravel. Drive past the natural gas pipeline easement, then park in the obvious pullout on the left (see map in photo section). Walk up to the parallel logging road above where you parked. Turn right and walk on this for 50 meters to an obvious grassy pullout. Find the steep trail up a black slag pile, follow this for 100 meters until it intersects the mountain bike trail "Creeper". Turn left and walk along Creeper for 100 meters and the first climbs will be immediately on your right.

Etica

Climbers share this area with mountain bikers. Please be respectful and do not leave gear on or belay from a mountain bike trail. They were here first, and have been very accommodating by re routing one of their trails to make room for our belay area.

This is a newly developed crag and there are still several closed/red tagged projects. Please stay off these routes until they are completed. There are also a couple open projects - have a go!

Storia

Grafico cronologico delle vie

The Extension Prospect coal mine was established near the end of the coal mining era in Nanaimo. It only operated for a short time (1940-1947), and many remnants of mining equipment can be found in the forest near the crag. The access trail to the crag passes one of the mine entrances, but it is considered dangerous to enter abandoned coal mines due to the potential for toxic gas accumulation. The trail that passes under the crag base is a well known black diamond mountain bike trail called Creeper. This 3 km long trail was established in 2020 and is still being expanded to the north, and will ultimately span the full 5 km length of Extension Ridge.

Vie

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Grado Via

Closed Project. Steep crack and head wall 10 meters left of Trash Panda.

The fist crack in the wall behind Clan of the Cave Bear. Ends at an intermediate ledge, and leads directly to Raging Ringtail above (second pitch).

FA: Kent Krauza, 20 Mag

The upper dihedral that starts on the ledge above Trash Panda. Good multi pitch practice, or climb both routes in a single pitch.

FA: Kent Krauza, 20 Mag

Open project. Follows the steep arete a couple meters to the left of Clan of the Cave Bear. Needs a scrub. Very challenging to reach top anchor from above.

Follows the NW arete of the detached pillar right beside the trail. Located about 50 meters north (climbers left) of the main wall. Shown as #3 on the crag overhead map.

Access the start by scrambling up behind the Clan of the Cave Bear pillar, then back out to a fixed line that leads to the intermediate ledge. This short crack climb utilizes perfect hand and fist jams on solid sandstone, other than the last couple moves on looser conglomerate. Likewise, the gear is excellent other than the top meter or two.

FA: Kent Krauza, 11 Mag

Open project. The imposing dark chimney/arete about 20 meters left of the main wall.

Start up the rounded arete, through a slab then to the overhung buckets above the ledge. Shares the last four bolts and anchor with Degrade Me. Grade is very height dependent, anywhere from 10c to 11a.

Start up the steep pebbled wall, to the ledge then join the finish of Obey My Spray. The crux is the lower wall.

FA: Cole Verrall

The dyno route in the middle of the wall. The throw between buckets above the first bolt is distinctively the crux.

FA: Cole Verrall

Closed project. Climbs the series of loose buckets to the ledge, then joins Snatch to the shared anchors.

The arete at the right end of the main wall. Great crack climbing near the top.

The wide crack with a big roof in the middle, about 15 meters right of the main wall. Requires 6-8 pieces of 3”-5” gear.

Follows flakes and ledges from under the large overhang and into the right facing dihedral corner above.

FA: Kent Krauza, 23 Apr

Starts below the prominent curved flake, through a couple ledges, then up the steep head wall and into another rib flake.

FA: Kent Krauza, 23 Apr

Follows the right arete, with occasional face moves. Crux between 5th and 6th bolts. Shown as #14 on the crag overhead map. Named for Joseph Mairs, martyr of the 1912 Nanaimo Coal Strike.

FA: Kent Krauza, 16 Apr

Closed project. The distinctive sickle shaped crack 10 meters to the right of Ode to Joe.

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Selected Guidebooks more Nascondi

Autore/i: Rich Wheater

Data: 2015

ISBN: 978-0-9877796-5-6

With 300 routes, 600 boulder problems and a handful of fine alpine objectives, Vancouver Rock Climbing provides comprehensive coverage of the diverse climbing scene around Vancouver, Canada.

  • Provides detailed coverage of Howe Sound, Caulfeild Sea Cliffs, Cypress Falls Park, Cypress Mountain, Grouse Mountain, Lynn Valley and Deep Cove
  • Includes full-color images and maps, descriptions of conditions and approach notes for each climbing area
  • Each climb description tells you what gear to use, how many bolts there are, a difficulty rating, the pitch length and where to start and end

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