Aiuto

Lac Tucker

Stagionalità

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Sommario

Moderate multi-pitch trad area overlooking Lac Tucker.

Descrizione

Fun moderate multi-pitch trad climbing with bolted anchors in a beautiful setting. Cracks and slab with good gear ranging from #0 to #5 cams. Choose your own adventure!

60m rope is sufficient, but a 70m rope will allow rappelling on any pitch. Tie knots when rappelling!

Limitazioni per l'accesso

The land around the south/west side of the lake is private property, however the north/east side of the lake (where the cliffs are located) are on crown land.

Avoid visiting Lac Tucker during hunting season. The crown land around Lac Tucker, including the approach road, is used by the locals for hunting.

Avvicinamento

Parking coordinates: 45°55'23.7"N 75°48'01.3"W

Be cautious with GPS routing as various apps (particularly Google Maps) have been known to send people the wrong way. When driving from Ottawa, the routing should have you approach from the south (through Denholm) and not from the north. Routing from Ottawa should look similar to this:

https://www.google.com/maps/dir/Ottawa,+ON/45.9107843,-75.791077/45.92326,-75.80035/@45.6778556,-75.9415203,10z/am=t/data=!4m10!4m9!1m5!1m1!1s0x4cce05b25f5113af:0x8a6a51e131dd15ed!2m2!1d-75.7003397!2d45.4200572!1m0!1m0!3e0?entry=ttu

After turning onto Chemin de la Solitude from Chemin de la Trans Outaouais, drive 2km north. It's a rough road but should be doable for any vehicle. Watch for ATV's.

At just under 2km, there's an obvious ATV trail branching left and a street sign for Chemin de la Solitude. Park along the roadside at this intersection. Do not block the road or the ATV trail. There is room for about 4-6 vehicles.

Once parked, hike up the ATV trail for about 10 minutes until the trail widens into a gravel washout. Turn right at the washout and follow another ATV trail into the forest for about 5 minutes. Shortly after crossing a low drainage, watch for a flagged trail on the left. Follow the flagged trail for about 10 minutes to the base of Birthday Bunduru.

Walk off at the end of the day is recommended, however the entire route can be rappelled (a 60m rope will get you to the ground using the right-most anchors, but a 70m will allow you to rappel any pitch). To walk off, hike up from the P4 anchor for 100m or so until you find a trail. Hike out on this ATV trail, passing the flagged approach trail on your descent.

Etica

There is lots of potential for future trad and sport routes, development is welcomed.

Keep trad routes trad. Bolt sport routes for safety. No retro-bolting.

Respect the cottagers and keep the noise down. Consider bringing radios for pitches 3 and 4 as it can be difficult to hear your partner.

Storia

Grafico cronologico delle vie

Birthday Bunduru was originally climbed ground-up in October 2022. Route cleaning and development took place over the summer of 2023 and spring of 2024. The crag was opened to the public in May 2024.

Vie

Aggiungi via Aggiungi scheda Riordina Modifica in blocco Converti gradi
Grado Via
1 5.9 25m
2 5.7 23m
3 5.9 36m
4 5.5 35m

Birthday Bunduru follows the left-most line the entire way up.

  1. 5.9, 25m. Climb the dual cracks, pull right onto the slab, then into a layback. Scramble to the ledge and traverse to the farthest left anchor.

  2. 5.7, 23m. Follow the crack system, passing a cedar tree and dihedral to an anchor on a ledge.

  3. 5.9, 36m. Make a couple thin slab moves to get into the next crack, up the crack and then traverse right to another cedar tree. Up the corner then across the slab at the top to the next anchor.

  4. 5.5, 35m. Climb up the slab and flake. Traverse right along the top of the slab and climb the corner up two ledges to the final anchor.

FFA: Nicole Fodor & Douglas Fleck, 5 Ott 2022

1 5.10 28m
2 5.9 22m
3 5.6 30m
4 5.6 27m

Belly Full of Bug Bites follows the right-most line the entire way up.

  1. 5.10, 28m. Start from behind a large boulder, next to a yellow birch. Climb the offwidth to a ledge and traverse to the farther right anchor.

  2. 5.9, 22m. Move right off the ledge and up a short staircased section to a crack above. Easier if you use the tree, maybe 5.8.

  3. 5.6, 30m. Super fun offwidth pitch. Bonus points if you actually climb the offwidth/chimney (closer to 5.7-5.8).

  4. 5.6, 27m. Walk right along the base of the slab and belay from below the obvious crack. Climb the shallow crack to the top, traverse right along the top of the slab, then climb the corner up two ledges to the anchor.

FFA: Nicole Fodor, 4 Set 2023

FFA: Douglas Fleck, 15 Mag

FFA: Douglas Fleck, 2 Giu

This variation follows a series of small cracks between pitch 1 of Birthday Bunduru and Belly Full of Bug Bites. It has two possible starts:

  1. Start as for Birthday Bunduru. After pulling the crux onto the slab, traverse all the way right across the slab, climb over a flake, then continue up the corner following a series of small cracks. Top out on the ledge and take your pick of anchor.

  2. Start behind the boulder where Belly Full of Bug Bites begins. Make a couple thin unprotected moves to gain the weakness towards the left. Continue up the corner following a series of small cracks. Top out on the ledge and take your pick of anchor.

FFA: Douglas Fleck & Nicole Fodor, 2 Giu

Very nice crack with good gear. #0 cam is nice to have for the thin crux.

FFA: Nicole Fodor, 15 Mag

This route heads straight up from the P2 anchor of Belly Full of Bug Bites. Climb up the wide crack to the cedar tree, then rejoin P3 of the original route. Bring your #5 cam!

FFA: Nicole Fodor, 15 Mag

Ciao!

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