Québec Guide

Summary:

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F

M

A

M

G

L

A

S

O

N

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Stagionalità

Arrampicata trad, Bouldering e altri stili

Lat / Long: 53.670621, -68.503265

descrizione

Quebec is Canada's largest province by area and it includes vast wilderness. It is the most French speaking. Most people live along the southern edge of the province, and most described climbing areas will be there as well.

The main city is Montreal, and the capital is Quebec city.

Summary:

Arrampicata trad, Bouldering e altri stili

Lat / Long: 46.508539, -74.901978

descrizione

Fascinating and welcoming destination, the Laurentian region is located north of Montreal. Its 22 000 km² (8800 mi²) of territory span south to north from One Thousand Islands River to the Mont Laurier; and east to west, from the Lanaudière region to the Outaouais region.

Plains and valleys of the Laurentians offer trekking over the hills and mountains and discovering a kaleidoscope of fascinating landscapes bursting with beauty. This is a little holiday realm with mountainside and lakeside cottages, lovely towns and villages, ski hills, network of cross-country ski trails, and top-notch golf camps.

Seduced by region’s nature and unique attractions, many Canadians and Americans set up a vacation home at the Laurentians.

The Laurentian region enjoys a well-deserved reputation for fine dining and regional specialties. In addition to restaurant dining, visitors can savor a meal at a sugar shack, pick apples straight off the trees, and spend a night at a luxurious inn or lodge.

A perfect destination for family vacations, the Laurentians house the National Park of Mont Tremblant, Quebec’s largest protected area. The famous bike trail known as the P’tit Train du Nord (Little Train from the North) winds its way through hills and villages for more than 200 km (125 mi). During the winter, the former railway line welcomes snowmobilers and cross-country skiers. Hundreds of destinations are there for you to choose!

Guidebooks:

Val-David: Guide des Parois d'Escalade Paul Laperrière et Bernard Poisson 1994 Les Editions La Cordee Available at La Cordée and Montain Equipment Coop

Guide des cascades de glace et voies mixtes Stéphane Lapierre et Bernard Gagnon Les éditions La Randonnée 528 pages Guide updates (2009)

Escalade de Rocher Weir Pierre Cornellier 1998 out of print

Summary:

Per lo più Arrampicata sportiva

Lat / Long: 46.182028, -74.810877

sommario

Unique rock type for the region, wild pristine lake with no direct road access, so no boats on the lake. Very quiet spot.

descrizione

Sport crag. A lot of moderate to hard routes, very few easy routes. Ideal for the 5.10 climber, not so much for beginners. The routes are well equipped. Bring a stick clip, as some route have so pretty high first bolt!

limitazioni per l'accesso

The area is owned by the municipality of La Conception. Climbing is permitted even though there isn't any official agreement yet. Prepare to maybe pay acess at parking.

avvicinamento

Take the Alléluia Trail, cross the bridge, follow the edge of the lake, pass a few campsites, and keep walking untill you see a natural path to the wall. The wall is roughly 50 meter away from the lake, it is visible from the trail.

dove alloggiare

Don't camp in the parking. Camp at Montagne d'Argent's campsite, it's much nicer, there is water, toilets, shelters and fires.

There is also a variety of camping spot at the beginning of the lake and along the approach.

etica

Wear a helmet also to belay there is some loose rock, kids=helmet ALL the time at the cliff, bring a stick-clip, top-rope on your equipement, pick up your garbage, no fires at the crag, no chipping, absolutely no dry tooling! no stupid/dangerous/crazy dogs... only cool ones!

storia

The crag was re-discovered in 2004 by Guy Parent after a long search with the few info available. Guy Parent, Charles Pechousek, Eric Paquet, Socrate Badeau and Emanuel Crevier were the main the openers of the " Golden age" of that development period. Later on, local climbers, like Jean-Dominique Saudan, opened a few lines.

Summary:

Arrampicata trad, Arrampicata sportiva e altri stili

Lat / Long: 46.132280, -74.675458

sommario

A large selection of climbs on good granite, usually with well maintained trails, anchors, and top-cliff access for setting top-ropes in many areas.

descrizione

Montagne D'argent is a climbing and hiking area near the town of La Conception, Quebec. Or, a more known land mark would be that it is not far from the Mont Tremblant ski area.

There are a number of well-developed cliffs on generally good quality granite.

Web site: http://www.montagnedargent.com/ (French)

Oh, and one oddity -- the guide book uses a one to 4 star rating for trad climbs to represent the quality of the protection, not the route. (This is a new and different thing I have seen nowhere else.)

Further more, it should be noted that the history of Montagne d'Argent is directly related to the owner-operator, Gaetan Castilloux, who, had initially purchased the property and subsequently transfered the property to the community of La Conception as a non-profit organisation. Mr. Castilloux is also responsible for the cleaning and opening of the majority of the crags.

A brief narrative of the history is available in the for-purchase guidebook of the area (all proceeds go directly to the P.E.R.M.A and serve to maintain the access and quality of climbs and services on site.)

As of recently, Mr. Castilloux as become the head of Section for the Laurentides section of the Canadian Alpine Club.

The local climbing community would also like to extend it's thanks for his contribution of this vastly popular and visited site.

All photo topos have been removed at the request of Gaetan Castilloux. Please buy the guide book at the registration area for topos of the climbs.

limitazioni per l'accesso

The climbing area is maintained by "Parc d'Escalade et de Randonnée de la Montagne D'Argent" (PERMA) -- primarily a climber's organisation. Daily access fee was $14 as of summer 2021, and yearly memberships ($70 as of 2021). Being affiliated with the Alpine Club of Canada, members of certain sections may climb for free upon presentation of their club membership but are still required to pay for on-site camping.

On weekends, there is generally someone there to collect the fees, during the week this is more often done on the honour system.

The site is open all year round with artificial ice falls created over the cliffs over the freezing winter months for Technical Ice Climbing.

A complete guidebook (including hand drawn reproductions, contributed by a local artist) is generally available at the hut on weekends. It has maps for access to the cliffs, and drawings of all the cliffs with routes marked on them. The current official guidebook is fully bilingual.

avvicinamento

Map your way to: 950 Rte de la Montagne D'Argent, La Conception, Québec.

Google maps link(may have to cut & past link, rather than click through): http://maps.google.ca/maps?q=950+Rue+de+la+Montagne+d'Argent,+la+conception,+Quebec&hl=en&ie=UTF8&sll=46.123493,-74.677484&sspn=0.010009,0.022724&z=16

Hike up the obvious small road to the hut (a minute or so), then after registering, hike to the various cliffs from there.

dove alloggiare

Camping is available at the park for a fee ($14/night as of 2021) -- or it is free with annual pass.

There is no drinking water available, so make sure to bring enough water for your stay.

storia

The complete history is available in the official guidebook, available at La Montagne d'Argent or in stores like MEC, La Cordée... etc.

Summary:

Bouldering, Arrampicata sportiva e altri stili

Lat / Long: 45.997248, -74.737135

descrizione

http://www.clubmontagnardslaurentiens.com/kanata-tremblant.html

Située à St-Rémi d'Amherst Kanata est un Écovillage dans lequel on retrouve une paroi d'escalade. On y retrouve plusieurs voies en tout genre ainsi qu'un secteur de bloc bien garni.

Si vous désirez vous impliquez dans le développement de ce merveilleux projet ou pour plus d’information, veuillez nous contacter à clubmontagnards@gmail.com

limitazioni per l'accesso

La paroi de Kanata est un site, développé, aménagé et entretenu par les grimpeurs du CML affilié à la FQME. Il faut donc être membre pour pouvoir y grimper. Le développement de voies d’escalade, pose d’ancrages, coupe d’arbres, nettoyage de blocs, sentiers etc, n’est pas permis sans l’autorisation préalable de la FQME. Si vous n’êtes pas membre de la fédération, vous pourrez acheter les passes journalières et annuelles directement au Club House où vous devez obligatoirement vous enregistrer pour vous rendre à la paroi. Il est très important de mentionner que les chiens ne sont pas permis sur tout le site Kanata Tremblant.

avvicinamento

Kanata Tremblant 695 chemin Rockway-Valley, Amherst, QC, J0T2L0 (877) 734-‐3414 www.kanatatremblant.com/

De Montréal, empruntez l'autoroute des Laurentides (15Nord). Après Sainte‐Agathe‐des- Monts la 15 Nord devient la 117. À Mont-Tremblant (St‐Jovite) prendre à la sortie de la 323 direction Brébeuf. Dans le village de Brébeuf, tournez à gauche vers St‐Rémi d'Amerst. En entrant au village de St-Rémi prendre la gauche sur la 364 (il y a un petit panneau) indiquant Kanata Tremblant. Environ 2 km plus loin vous trouverez l'entrée principale de Kanata-Tremblant sur votre gauche et le Club House ou vous pourrez vous enregistrer.

À partir du Club house, vous aurez encore 5 minutes de voiture à faire et le stationnement se trouvera directement à côté de la paroi.

dove alloggiare

Vous trouverez ici quelques suggestions d'hébergements à proximité de la paroi.

Pour une plus grandes variétés de suggestions, vous pouvez toujours consulter la page de Bonjour Québec ou encore parler à un conseiller au 1 877 BONJOUR.

Camping: Camping Domaine des cèdres: Brébeuf Gîtes et auberges: Auberge du Lac à la Loutre: Huberdeau Hôtels: Comfort Inn et Suites Tremblant: Saint-Jovite Chalets et Condos: Chalets et condos sur le site de Kanata Tremblant Le Rustique: Bréboeuf Centres de vacances et auberges de jeunesse: Auberge de jeunesse Tremblant: Mont-Tremblant

Summary:

Arrampicata sportiva e Arrampicata trad

Lat / Long: 45.978172, -74.135211

sommario

La paroi de Mont Baldy c'est l'endroit par excellence pour tester son niveau. Par journée chaude d'été, le mont Baldy reste relativement à l'ombre.

descrizione

https://fqme.qc.ca/sites/mont-baldy-sainte-adele/

limitazioni per l'accesso

Il faut être membre de la FQME pour accéder à la paroi. À Baldy, on on ne crie pas

avvicinamento

(45.973170, -74.136516) Attention à ne pas se garer proche de l'entrée du voisin qui doit parfois passer avec une remorque Prenez le nouveau sentier FQME qui part vers la droite. Il est un peu plus long mais nous permet de garder l'accès à la paroi.

Summary:

Tutti Bouldering

Lat / Long: 45.924207, -74.274565

sommario

Bouldering here is already well-established, but some issues (like parking, complaints) are being discussed at the moment with the city of Morin-Heights and the FQME. Stay tuned for more development.

descrizione

Site with the crag's topo is temporarily closed due to access issues, but hopefully soon it will be back up. Only putting up problems for now to be able to log them. Feel free to add information/problems that you know.

Website: https://www.boulderinglaurentides.com/

limitazioni per l'accesso

Be respectful of others, the neighbours and the environment if ever you decide to go climb there. Don't park on the side of the road, only in permitted parking areas.

Summary:

Tutti Arrampicata trad

Lat / Long: 46.248161, -74.477746

sommario

An adventurous crag with many hard and long trad climbs.

descrizione

This is the crag you can see on the right of "chemin du lac supérieur" when driving towards the "Parc du Mont Tremblant". It is seperated into two different sections ("Petit Nixon" and "Grand Nixon".)

Information is hard to find on this area so please update!

limitazioni per l'accesso

The Club Montagnards Laurentiens and the FQME are working to get a official access to this cliff, any access will put in jeopardy the work they are doing for all climbers.

IMPORTANT

The access as well as the crag are all on private property and the owner is not friendly towards climbers due to damage and people not following the rules. The access to this crag is thus very fragile. Many crags around the area have been closed off for this very reason.

Lets change that.

Be extremely respectful of anyone you cross. Do NOT camp. Do NOT make fires.

IMPORTANT

avvicinamento

Parking lot: (46.2427018, -74.4857661)

To get to the "Grand Nixon": From the parking lot, walk north along the road for about 100m and turn right on the obvious trail (just before the road turns). Follow the trail straight until a "T" intersection. Going right there leads to the "Twin Towers sector" and left to the "Grand Nixon" sector. After the intersection, walk on the trail for around 50-100m and head right to an unmarked trail. Look for traces of human passage and you should eventually get to the base of the "Water Gate" sector.

To get to the "Petit Nixon": From the parking lot, walk north along the road for about 100m and turn right on the obvious trail (just before the road turns). At some point, you will see a trail branching left, take it. After walking for around 100m, head right into the woods. There is no trail from this point. Look for the cliffs. It shouldn't be any farther than 300-400m.

Summary:

Arrampicata sportiva, Arrampicata trad e Arrampicata su roccia

Lat / Long: 46.208495, -74.486513

sommario

Une superbe paroi visible du chemin du Lac Supérieur et comprenant une vingtaine de voies de plus de 30m de 5.9 à 5.13b.

descrizione

SITE FERMÉ Le site du Cap des Pères au Lac Supérieur regroupe deux parois de caractères très différents, soit le petit cap (fermé) et le grand cap.

Le petit cap offre plus d'une vingtaine de voies sportives de difficulté facile à modéré (entre 5.6 et 5.10). La paroi est dalleuse ou vertical et les voies font entre 15m et 20m. Cette section de paroi est fermé. Il s'agit d'une propriété privé et il n'y a aucune entente pour l'accès avec le propriétaire actuel (mai 2014). La grimpe y est donc interdite.

Le grand cap se démarque par ses longues voies sportives, toutes aussi classiques les unes que les autres. Les voies sont verticales et font toutes au moins 30m. La difficulté des voies varie entre 5.9 et 5.13b. Il faut de l'endurance et de la technique pour y avoir du succès.

Malgré son orientation sud-est, Il s'agit tout de même d'une bonne destination l'été. La paroi passe à l'ombre vers 2h30 et une légère brise du lac nous rafraîchit souvent.

limitazioni per l'accesso

Les rochers du Cap des Pères du Lac Supérieur appartiennent à différents propriétaires Qui ne donne plus de permissions . L'accès est donc strictement interdit.

Cette entente est fragile a été retiré au printemps 2019 Pour la maintenir, les grimpeurs devront être responsables de l’environnement et de la quiétude de ces propriétaires en respectant ces consignes :

Il est strictement interdit de se servir de leurs espaces de stationnement même comme débarcadère ou d’y passer pour se rendre aux parois.
L’accès aux terrains aux bords du Lac Supérieur est strictement interdit.
Interdit de camper et de faire des feux.
Interdit de donner des cours ou toute activité commerciale. De plus, les règlements de zonage l’interdisent aussi.
Obligation de rapporter ses déchets incluant vos mégots de cigarettes.
Les chiens doivent être tenus en laisse en tout temps.
Limitez le bruit et surtout les cris aux pieds et sur les parois. On nous entend très bien sur le bord du Lac. Le son porte très loin.
Le propriétaire n’est pas responsable de maintenir ou d’entretenir les sentiers. Vous utilisez les sentiers à vos propres risques et le propriétaire dénie toute responsabilité et ne pourra être tenu responsable pour tout incident découlant de l’usage de son terrain.

avvicinamento

Autoroute 15 Nord jusqu'au bout, ensuite Route 117 Nord
à droite sur la rue principale à St-Faustin
gauche sur chemin du Lac Supérieur.
droite sur chemin du tour du lac (au dépanneur)
droite dans le stationnement de l'ancienne église situé au 68 ch. du tour du lac. (1.7 KM à pied de la paroi)
Rebroussez chemin à pied jusqu'au chemin du Lac Supérieur et la paroi est bientôt visible de la route.
Marchez jusqu'au sentier balisé de rubans roses.

dove alloggiare

Camping:

Parc du Mont-Tremblant: Lac-Supérieur
Domaine Desjardins : Saint-Faustin-Lac Carré

Gîtes et auberges:

Auberge le Versant Nord : Lac-Supérieur
Avalanche B&B : Lac-Supérieur

Hôtels:

Marriott Residence-Inn Mont-Tremblant: Mont-Tremblant

Chalets et Condos:

Côté Nord Tremblant: Lac-Supérieur
Chalet Chez Fanny: Lac-Supérieur

Centres de vacances et auberges de jeunesse:

Le p'tit bonheur :Lac-Supérieur
Auberge de jeunesse Tremblant: Mont-Tremblant

storia

Unknown

Summary:

Arrampicata trad, Arrampicata sportiva e Con corda dall'alto

Lat / Long: 46.169207, -74.426562

sommario

Small granite crag in the Laurentians with a very short (1-3 minute) approach.

descrizione

This is a smallish crag easily approached from the road, ranging in height from 10-25m. It offers a variety of trad and sport routes

Cliff-top access is generally doable, though may be tricky to figure out, for setting up top-ropes.

(As of spring 2011) a topo (in French) is available from: http://www.drtopo.com/quebec/246 or from http://www.fqme.qc.ca/index.asp?id=884

limitazioni per l'accesso

The site is on public land managed by the municipality of Lac Superior (not the great lake) and the Fédération québécoise de la montagne et de l’escalade (FQME).

You should be a member of FQME to climb at this site.

avvicinamento

Google map link for parking: http://maps.google.com/maps?q=46.168835,-74.425464&num=1&sll=49.356499,-74.015209&sspn=8.600199,1.118575&ie=UTF8&ll=46.168805,-74.425721&spn=0.020923,0.038409&z=15

Park there, walk a minute or so west along the road, then up the obvious access trail to the cliff. Approach time 2-3 minutes.

etica

Clean-up after yourself. Stick-clipping is expected especially on some of the tougher sport routes and they were bolted with this in mind. Don't belay off existing fixed gear. No new development of routes without authorisation of the FQME. Projects will be marked with red tape, don't climb projects.

Summary:

Tutti Bouldering

Lat / Long: 45.951952, -74.135517

sommario

Saint-Adèle has a few boulders scattered in the region. Since most boulders seems to have no established access, their location is not disclosed here.

limitazioni per l'accesso

No official access to many boulders. Please be respectful of the neighbors if you go around hunting for the lines.

(45.946452, -74.533467)

The massif of the Weir is one of the most impressive in the Laurentians. It has long, technical routes and a short approach.

Height is about 90-100m, and unlike most other cliffs of this size in the area, mostly vertical to overhanging.

The cliff is to the east of the road, north of the satellite dishes.

Guidebooks: There is a printed guidebook available (https://escaladeweir.ca/) and a rakkup https://rakkup.com/guidebooks/quebec-mont-larose-weir-rock-climbing/

limitazioni per l'accesso

The land is owned by Tata Communications, please do nothing that might cause them to remove permission to climb.

From april 1st to august 1st, some setors are be closed for peregrine falcons. These typically include all the center walls, ranging from Mur du Capitaine to Adagio, but it might change depending on the falcons' nest. Watch out for more info at the trail start.

The climbing is managed/insured by the FQME (http://www.fqme.qc.ca), you should be a member to climb here.

avvicinamento

Hiking trails should be obvious. Watch out for poison ivy!

Summary:

Tutti Arrampicata trad

Lat / Long: 46.258527, -74.669185

sommario

Laurentides' most beautiful cracks on a slab. Remote and quiet.

descrizione

Opened around 2018, a 40-45m multi-pitch wall with four routes only accessible from the top. Great for top rope with top belaying. The bottom of the area can be only access by bushwalking from a trail, and bushwalking is forbidden in the area. Apparently not part of FQME, so you're on you're own. Crag is remote and rarely visited. Cellular signal is good on top of the crag.

limitazioni per l'accesso

The northern part of the previous Montagne Verte Loop, after the crag, seems now to be a private property with forbidden access. Fortunately, entering private property is not required to access the crag. You will however have to walk past a "Stay on trails" sign and follow the older path towards the north. There are no signs stating that climbing is forbidden at this place (2023).

avvicinamento

To access the area, you must follow the Montagne Verte loop and use the crest trail which is at the east of the return trail. Expect a 20-30 min walk from the parking. From the parking, head east and stick east for the crest loop at the first crossing about 100m from the parking. Walk north on the trail until it turns west to the left and you encounter a "Stay in trails" sign. Instead of going west keep going to the north for 20 m past the sign, and look for pink ribbons placed on trees along the way. This will take you to the top of the crag in about five minutes. Having a phone with the GPS coordinates entered is very helpful. A proper app/Garmin with hiking trails also simplifies the approach.

Summary:

Arrampicata sportiva e Arrampicata trad

Lat / Long: 46.267795, -74.688257

sommario

Up to 4 pitches, sport or trad, finger to offwidth cracks, slab, crimps, flakes, divots and scenic belaying ledges.

descrizione

A large cliff with a lot of sport routes, generally closely bolted, and often with bolted cracks.

Routes have a two-bolt anchor (unless indicated), and all pitch lengths are for a 60m rope, unless indicated. Where longer, there will be a way to rappel off with a 60m rope.

The topo information on here is incomplete, not all routes are listed, and names may be descriptive rather than correct.

There is evidence (2016) of ongoing development or potential for it -- anchors above uncleaned cracks, etc.

limitazioni per l'accesso

The site and access are on public land. As of June 21, 2022, parking has been banned on all streets surrounding Lac Gervais. The only available parking is the Montagne Verte parking.

https://municipalite.labelle.qc.ca/images/documents/reglements/R%C3%A8glement_2022-358_-_Stationnement.pdf

avvicinamento

Park at the Montagne Verte parking lot and walk North on Chemin du Lac Baptiste for 1.5km and turn left on Chemin du lac Gervais. Walk for another 1.2km until you reach a large pullout (used for emergency vehicles to turn around) on the left. The trail is at the back of this "pullout".

Follow the orange ribbons, do not miss the second tape at 30m. Where you turn right the track is clear enough and rises quickly. 10 minutes walk before you get to the wall.

The track is well beaten now, so you can't get lost. Be careful at the steep section, the ground is deteriorated and some fairly large rocks tend to fall.

dove alloggiare

No camping on site. You can camp at Montagne d'Argent.

etica

As the site is adjacent to Lake Gervais, sound carries away from the walls. The lakeside owners do not appreciate the presence of all climbers, so be discreet.

storia

The wall of Lake Gervais was developed by Gaetan Castilloux in 2010. Some routes were bolted in 2013.

descrizione

95 Boul des Entreprises Suite 100

Boisbriand

Quebec J7G 2T1 Canada

http://amusementactiondirecte.com/

call: (450) 688-0515

Summary:

Per lo più Arrampicata sportiva

sommario

La priorité va au groupe d'école, domaine privé, payer à l'avance les frais d'accès et remplir le formulaire de décharge.

Summary:

Arrampicata sportiva, Arrampicata trad e altri stili

Lat / Long: 46.344445, -74.659131

sommario

A small crag with pleasant easy to low-moderate routes.

descrizione

A small (20m), granite(ish) slab with a variety of features. The climbing tends more technical than physical.

The base is flat and well-shaded by trees, and the crag faces east, giving it shade much of the day. And, with the easy routes, and short approach, would make it a good crag to bring kids to.

The top of the cliff can be accessed for setting top-ropes by following a trail up the left side of the cliff.

limitazioni per l'accesso

This is an FQME crag, so you should have an FQME annual memebership or day-membership to climb here. See https://fqme.qc.ca/adherer/

The base is part of a Maple sugar farm, the crag is sometimes used by a local camp, and there are cottages in the area. Please respect all of these.

avvicinamento

The crag is located just west of the intersection of chemin du Lac-Caché and chemin des Pruches. Turn (right) onto Chemin des Pruches, where the right shoulder widens enough for 3 cars to park and park.

Walk back to chemin du Lac-Caché, turn right, go a few 10s of meters where a trail will climb up off the left side of the road, past an FQME access sign. Follow the obvious trail about 200m to the crag.

etica

FQME

Summary:

Arrampicata sportiva, Arrampicata trad e altri stili

Lat / Long: 46.623494, -73.856260

descrizione

The region of Lanaudière is part of central Quebec and is located between the Saint Lawrence River and the Laurentian Mountains, between Mauricie and the Laurentides. Lanaudière attracts a good deal of interest from vacationers due to its unique character founded largely on the harmony between its culture and the surrounding natural environment. Lanaudière's area of 12,413.73 square kilometers (4,792.97 sq mi) stretch northwest from a shoreline of 60 kilometers (37 mi) on the Saint Lawrence River. Lanaudière is generally rural, while the urban areas are generally concentrated in the south of the region, such as Repentigny, Terrebonne and Berthierville. The altitude rises as one goes northwards; it is 20 meters (66 ft) near the Saint Lawrence River to almost 800 meters (2,625 ft) at the top of mountains near Saint-Donat and Saint-Zénon.

Lanaudière is made up of three distinct geographical groupings: the southern plain has cities and farming villages and includes many historical locations; the piedmont in the centre has become a vacation spot due to its numerous lakes and natural attractions, and the Laurentian Plateau in the far north in the forested country is known for its fishing and hiking.

Lanaudière's road network was developed according to three north-south axes (25-125, 31-131, 347), all of which have few links with the neighbouring regions. Even though this internal network is almost exclusively composed of secondary roads, it is well-designed for long automobile trips or for biking. Lanaudière has two wildlife preserves, the Rouge-Matawin and the Mastigouche, as well as part of the Mont Tremblant park. Further to the north, about an hour away from Saint-Michel-des-Saints, there is the Atikamekw indian reserve of Manawan.

Guidebooks:

Guide des cascades de glace et voies mixtes Stéphane Lapierre et Bernard Gagnon Les éditions La Randonnée 528 pages Guide updates (2009)

Guide d'Escalade de Lanaudière (Roche et Glace) Jean Claude Néolet (2009)+updates Available at La Cordée and Montain Equipment Coop

La montagne du Tranchant Socrate Badeau (2010)

Summary:

Arrampicata trad, Bouldering e altri stili

Lat / Long: 46.251397, -73.948088

sommario

Site de Trad avec l'exception de deux voie en Sport et les Blocs.

descrizione

Site dans le parc du foret Ouareau http://www.parcsregionaux.org/parcs-regionaux/parcs/parc-regional-de-la-foret-ouareau/

http://www.fqme.qc.ca/images/stories/sitesacces/Topos/Topo_Ouareau.pdf

limitazioni per l'accesso

Il faut être membre de la FQME pour grimper et payer l'entrée pour le parc de la Fôret Ouareau. Autour de 14.50$ par famille et 6$ par adult par jour.

avvicinamento

De Montréal, suivre la route 25, puis la 125 jusqu’à l’intersection pour Rawdon. Empruntez la 337 nord jusqu’à l’intersection de la 343 à Saint-Alphonse-Rodriguez. Suivez la 343 nord jusqu’à l’intersection de la route 347 à Saint-Côme. Suivez la 347 nord en direction du village de Saint-Côme. À partir de l’église de Saint-Côme, roulez pendant 16,2 km jusqu’au panneau de la porte C de la Forêt Ouareau. À gauche, suivre le chemin de gravier pendant 2,4 km.

Suivez le sentier le Murmure qui longe la rivière pendant 3 km, pour une marche d’environ 50 minutes. Il y a quelques balises indiquant la présence d’un site d’escalade. Le sentier qui mène aux parois passe par le camping primitif et nécessite environ 10 minutes de marche supplémentaire pour atteindre la paroi.

dove alloggiare

Dans le camping du parc de la Foret Ouvreau ou alentour de Saint Côme.

Summary:

Arrampicata trad, Arrampicata sportiva e Arrampicata su roccia

Lat / Long: 46.272081, -73.989243

sommario

Cool petite paroie proche de Lac Castor. En haut lac blanc très beau jolie face. Sud et soleil.

limitazioni per l'accesso

Gens à coter aime pas beaucou les climbers.

avvicinamento

Depuis parking Lac Castor prendre trail gauche et tourner a gauche apres le pont

dove alloggiare

Possible camper Lac Castor.

Summary:

Arrampicata sportiva, Arrampicata trad e Arrampicata su roccia

Lat / Long: 46.269354, -73.972531

descrizione

avvicinamento

(46.2257100, -73.7395200)

dove alloggiare

Camping Montagne D’Argent FQME

Summary:

Arrampicata sportiva, Arrampicata trad e Arrampicata su roccia

Lat / Long: 46.285492, -73.782488

sommario

Centre-Ville se situé entre la ville de Saint-Côme et Tranchant.

Note: Le guide book de SAINT ALPH et compagnie de Steve Bourdeau contiens aussi Centre-ville : https://grimpe-saint-alph.square.site/

descrizione

https://www.escaladelanaudiere.com/centre-ville.html https://www.mountainproject.com/area/114210054/saint-come-centre-ville

limitazioni per l'accesso

Il faut être membre de la FQME.

avvicinamento

Passez le village de Saint-Côme vers le Nord sur la 347. Ensuite tournez à droite sur la 102e Avenue et tournez à droite après le petit pont et prenez la 106e. 50 mètres avant la fin du chemin vers la gauche est le nouveau stationnement.

Ensuite prenez le sentier suivez le sentier de raquette ou fatbike et suivez "les flaques jaunes". Il va avoir plus loin des indications avec le logo de la FQME.

La parois se trouve à votre gauche, difficile à manquer.

Summary:

Arrampicata sportiva e Arrampicata trad

Lat / Long: 46.291751, -73.854205

sommario

La falaise offre beaucoup de voies en face raide. Il y a quelques fissures, des dalles et aussi de petits toits à surmonter. On retrouve aussi quelques multi-pitches de deux longueurs. Ce qui rend le rocher spécial, c’est les prises très franches. On retrouve des prises très positives et surprenantes dans la majorité des voies. L’escalade est technique et les séquences peuvent sembler difficiles jusqu’à ce qu’on trouve comment passer.

descrizione

Orientation : Sud-Ouest Ensoleillement : 11h 30 au coucher du soleil Pluie : Plusieurs des voies sèchent vite après une pluie abondante. Cependant les voies plus faciles en fissures restent mouillées plus longtemps. Saison : Les voies peuvent être grimpées très tôt en saison lorsque la température augmente au mois de mars. La majorité des voies sont sec mais il faut faire attention aux chutes de glace dans certains secteurs. On peut aussi grimper jusqu’à fin octobre/début novembre. Type d’escalade : La falaise offre beaucoup de voies en face raide. Il y a quelques fissures, des dalles et aussi de petits toits à surmonter. On retrouve aussi quelques multi-pitches de deux longueurs. Ce qui rend le rocher spécial, c’est les prises très franches. On retrouve des prises très positives et surprenantes dans la majorité des voies. L’escalade est technique et les séquences peuvent sembler difficiles jusqu’à ce qu’on trouve comment passer. Approche : d Moyen 8 min.

limitazioni per l'accesso

Menbre de FQME

avvicinamento

La falaise de la Montagne du Tranchant est située près de la route 347 entre les villes de Notre-Dame-de-la- Merci et de Saint-Côme.

De Montréal, il faut emprunter la 25N jusqu’à St-Esprit. Ensuite, tourner à gauche sur la 125N direction Rawdon/St-Donat. Après environs 13 Km il faut suivre la fourche de droite vers Rawdon en prenant la 337N. Attention lorsque vous traverser le village de Rawdon vous devez suivre les directions pour la 337N vers St-Alphonse-de-Rodriguez. À la jonction de la 343 tournez à gauche sur la 343N. Continuez jusqu’à St-Côme. Du pont qui traverse la Rivière l’Assomption en plein centre-ville suivre la 347 en direction de Notre Dame de la Merci. Compter environs 6.4 Km pour se rendre à la route du Lac Clair Si vous voyez la Station de ski Val St-Côme vous êtes trop loin. Tourner à droite sur la route du Lac Clair et rouler 1.5 km. Le stationnement et la falaise seront visibles à votre droite.

Du stationnement, prendre le sentier qui se situe à gauche. Suivre le sentier évident qui mène à la falaise. (8min) En quittant le pierrier, on arrive dans le secteur de gauche et on voit très facilement la ligne Dans ta Face avec l’arête déversante en forme d’escalier. Toilettes : Dans le stationnement, on y retrouve une toilette sèche. SVP servez-vous en et essayez de ne pas faire vos besoins près de la falaise.

dove alloggiare

Saint Come ou Rawdon

etica

Éthique et ouverture de voies : Le point le plus important est la sécurité des voies. Si vous décidez d’ouvrir des voies SVP faites un bon travail de nettoyage, surtout à l’égard des blocs instables. De plus, poser uniquement du matériel en acier inoxydable conforme. Finalement, afin de ne pas créer de conflits, SVP contacter les ouvreurs actifs. Ceci peut être fait en en contactant l’auteur du présent guide au courriel suivant : (socratebadeau@gmail.com). Ou en rejoignant le CEL : (escaladelanaudiere@hotmail.com).

storia

There are occasional erratic boulders in the woods below the cliffs that people boulder on a bit.

limitazioni per l'accesso

As of spring 2019, Mont Rigaud is charging $5/car for parking in their lot, but no other fees if you tell them you're their to climb. They do have a $2/person posted hiking fee -- if you park outside and walk in, they may choose to collect this. They also have washrooms available in the building with the "accueil" sign.

They appear to be keeping the parking lot open until 7pm as well -- at least on weekends.

Access is through the Mont Rigaud ski area, which is an aerial park with zip lines and such during the summer. The cliff is not on their property, but access to it is through their land, and so far they have tolerated climbers fairly well. They have a parking lot that is open during the day, and do not seem to mind climbers parking there. It does have gates that are (apparently) chained shut at night, and the official posted hours are that they close at 4pm -- so if you park in their lot, plan on getting back to your car before then. There is also some road-side parking available on a nearby side-road.

Here is a message (in French) from the owners of the Mont Rigaud ski area.

Bonjour,

Depuis l’an dernier je prends plaisir à lire vos forums, principalement sur le site de Rigaud.

J’aimerais prendre quelques minutes pour vous expliquer la situation de ce site.

Comme vous le savez, ce site est particulièrement achalandé, surtout l’été. La proximité de Rigaud en fait probablement un attrait pour plusieurs d’entre vous.

Le massif n’est pas situé sur les terrains du Centre de ski Mont Rigaud mais sur le terrain voisin. Celui-ci appartient à Ma Baie Développement. Mais la proximité de la rue Des Érables (la route 325) permet aux grimpeurs de passer sur le site du Centre de ski pour y accéder.

Nous sommes proprios du Centre depuis 2001. Depuis cette date, nous ouvrons le stationnement presque à tous les jours et laissons les excursionnistes et les grimpeurs l’utiliser. Hors de la saison de glisse, la clôture ferme habituellement à 16h00. Malheureusement, il arrive que certaines personnes n’aient pas vu l’affiche annonçant l’heure de fermeture du stationnement et nous devons fermer celui-ci afin d’éviter le vol et le vandalisme. Comme certains d’entres vous le mentionnez dans les forums, il est cependant possible de stationner un peu plus loin sur la même route, juste passé l’arrêt, à droite. Le stationnement n’est plus permis devant le Centre, sur l’accotement de la route, pour des raisons de sécurité routière. Cette décision ne relève d’ailleurs pas de notre autorité.

Vous êtes toujours les bienvenus sur le site du Centre de ski. Vous comprendrez donc que nous ne pouvons cautionner l’escalade du rocher puisqu’il ne nous appartient pas, mais nous acceptons volontiers que les grimpeurs stationnent et passent sur notre site.

Le seul vrai problème, que certains d’entre vous avez soulevés, est le manque de respect et de civisme de certains visiteurs. Régulièrement nous devons procéder au nettoyage des pistes (L’Express et La Falaise) puisque nous y retrouvons débris, sacs, bouteilles, etc. Il y a quelques années, nous avons installé une poubelle blanche à mi-chemin. Régulièrement, celle-ci se retrouve en bas de la piste ou renversée dans les boisés...

Nous gardons quand même un bon espoir que la majorité d’entre vous, et des autres visiteurs, soyez collaborateurs au maintien de la sécurité et de la propreté du site. L’an dernier, nous avons nettoyé le sommet du rocher et certains débris à la base dont notamment beaucoup de verre brisée. C’est pourquoi nous vous invitons à l’extrême prudence aux alentours du rocher.

Notre personnel se fera un plaisir de répondre à vos questions (et même vous permettre d’utiliser les toilettes du chalet si requis). Je réitère que vous êtes les bienvenus sur le site.

Deux demandes que j’aimerais vous formuler : prudence en dehors de la saison de glisse car beaucoup de travaux ont lieu sur le site dont le transport de pierres et terre dans les pistes; aucun accès durant la saison de glisse (afin d’éviter les accidents avec les clients du Centre. Nos assureurs interdisent que nous acceptions des promeneurs à pied dans les pistes. Il existe cependant un accès par le sommet de la montagne (par la rue du ski-doo ou le rang St-Georges) qui vous évitera de passer dans les pistes.

Merci pour votre collaboration.

Luke Centre de ski Mont Rigaud www.skimontrigaud.com

avvicinamento

Warning: watch for Wild Parsnip (http://www.invadingspecies.com/invaders/plants-terrestrial/wild-parsnip/) on the ski hill part of the approach.

Park in either the Mont Rigaud parking, or along the road nearby. The crag is the obvious face of rock to the left of the ski runs. Hike up the left-most (facing up) of the ski runs then about 400m up cut left off the ski run on a series of trails running through the woods. Work your way upwards along the trails until you reach the cliff, scrambling over the usual talus field as you get close. (If you miss the trail cut-off, it isn't hard to bushwhack up to the cliff -- it is long enough that, really, it is hard to miss it.)

etica

Use your own gear for anchors. Keep the area clean. Don't annoy the Mont Rigaud commercial operations, so that climbing will continue to be tolerated.

Summary:

Tutti Bouldering

Lat / Long: 45.487924, -73.578733

descrizione

5 or 6, 20 m splitter cracks differant size from hand to fist

avvicinamento

Allez sous le viaduc

Summary:

Tutti Bouldering

Lat / Long: 45.554480, -73.553348

descrizione

Two huge granite blocks, designed for climbing, were installed on the Esplanade. Each of the rocks has a variety of both natural and improved lines with grades ranging from V2 to V10. Official topo freely available at https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.theonsite.onsite .

avvicinamento

Get to the Pie-IX metro station and walk north of the northeast exit.

storia

The site was open on July 25th 2019, from a partnership with OnSite.

Summary:

Per lo più Bouldering

Lat / Long: 45.519988, -73.535550

sommario

Bouldering within metro Montreal.(school wall & super soft grades )

descrizione

This site is in an area the is the remains of some blasting that was done to build the botanical garden of Montreal for the 1967 World Expo. It is about 10 minutes from down-town Montreal on Ile Ste-Helene (St. Helen's Island) in the St. Lawrence river between Montreal and Longueuil.

The climbs are generally in the 3m-8m range, and it is mostly bouldering, though with a couple top-rope routes.

More info including full topo as (June 2018) available from: http://www.fqme.qc.ca/sites-et-acces/topos-en-ligne-des-sites-du-reseau-acces-montagne/276-parc-jean-drapeau-fqme.html

limitazioni per l'accesso

The site is affiliated with the FQME. You must be a member to climb. If you are not a member of the federation, you can buy a daily membership.

Info here (fr) http://www.fqme.qc.ca/adherer/descriptif-des-adhesions.html

(en, google translate) https://translate.googleusercontent.com/translate_c?act=url&depth=1&hl=en&ie=UTF8&prev=_t&rurl=translate.google.com&sl=auto&sp=nmt4&tl=en&u=http://www.fqme.qc.ca/adherer/descriptif-des-adhesions.html&xid=17259,15700019,15700124,15700149,15700168,15700173,15700186,15700191,15700201&usg=ALkJrhhIMgUP4rn-Lx9EW1OljHnlQyZOAA#adhesionjournaliere

Please keep the site clean.

avvicinamento

Take the Jacques Cartier bridge, and exit on Ile Ste-Helene. Circle so you are just south of the bridge, and park. The crag should be visible from there.

The "cliff" should be visible in this google map: http://maps.google.ca/maps?q=45.520035,-73.535529&num=1&t=h&hl=en&ie=UTF8&ll=45.520526,-73.535464&spn=0.002537,0.004823&z=18

Other approaches include a bus from Papineau station, the metro and get off at Jean-Drapeau (yellow) line, or bicycle over the bridge. (If it will get you to La Ronde, it will get you to this bouldering.)

dove alloggiare

Anywhere in Montreal -- but, really, you wouldn't travel for this bouldering.

Summary:

Tutti Con corda dall'alto

Lat / Long: 45.505898, -73.583990

sommario

Short boulder/top-rope cliff with trees on top for anchors.

avvicinamento

Approach via Royal Victoria parking entrance on the corner of Peel and Pins (bottom) or the Mont Royal pedestrian path (top). Can access anchor trees from the path on Mont Royal if you want to approach from the top of the cliff instead.

descrizione

3040 Sherbrooke

Montreal

Quebec Canada

https://www.dawsoncollege.qc.ca/physical-education/

call:

descrizione

2350 Dickson Street

Montreal

Quebec H1N 3T1 Canada

http://www.horizonroc.com/

call: (514) 899-5000

Summary:

Con corda dall'alto e Arrampicata sportiva

Lat / Long: 45.533240, -73.575170

sommario

Zéro Gravité is a unique indoor rock climbing and yoga centre set in a safe, friendly and relaxed atmosphere: challenge for all levels, one price for both activities and more than 100 routes.

Bouldering Gym

avvicinamento

Metro Cremazie and take the bus 100 in west direction, stop at l'Acadie street
Metro Sauvé and take the bus 121 in west direction, stop at l'Acadie street Metro l'Acadie and take the bus 179 in north direction, stop at Chabanel street

descrizione

Urban Bouldering showns in famous video Disturban behaviour Gritty concrete

avvicinamento

Métro Station "LaSalle"

Summary:

Arrampicata trad, Arrampicata sportiva e altri stili

Lat / Long: 47.131881, -73.090695

sommario

beau site de bloc en desous de ligne dhydro

Summary:

Arrampicata sportiva, Arrampicata trad e Bouldering

Lat / Long: 46.640139, -72.971592

sommario

Cinquantaine de voies et possibilité pour plus

avvicinamento

Suivre les indications jusqua la parois.

descrizione

1276 Rue Ste-julie

Trois-Rivieres

Quebec G9A 1Y6 Canada

http://www.adrenergie.com/

call: (819) 697-3220

Summary:

Con corda dall'alto, Arrampicata sportiva e Arrampicata trad

Lat / Long: 46.527957, -72.763165

descrizione

Topo available at http://www.fqme.qc.ca/images/stories/sitesacces/Topos/Ile_Melville.pdf

Summary:

Arrampicata trad, Con corda dall'alto e altri stili

Lat / Long: 47.095767, -72.917572

sommario

Le mur d’escalade est d’environ 400 mètres de large et d’en moyenne 60 mètres de haut. On y retrouve présentement 75 voies et possibilité d’en avoir plus de 200.

descrizione

Topo PDF : https://www.escaladequebec.com/topos/Topo_Trois-Rives.pdf

limitazioni per l'accesso

La FQME assure ce site et le CEMM gère son développement. Vous devez être membre de la FQME pour y grimper. Les différentes adhésions peuvent être achetées en ligne ou sur place. Pour plus d’information, visitez www.fqme.qc.ca

avvicinamento

https://goo.gl/maps/SviXxqJaWiKGY4t56

dove alloggiare

Camping : https://www.passionescalade.com/

storia

Ayant acheté la propriété au pied d’une falaise d’escalade en août 2020, Patrick Brouillard et Amélie Vertefeuille, co-propriétaires de Passion Escalade, ont commencé à développer le site d’escalade de Trois-Rives avec l’aide de nombreux bénévoles et de la Fédération québécoise de la montagne et de l’escalade (FQME). C’est grâce à l’accord des propriétaires de la falaise que les travaux ont pu commencer.

Summary:

Arrampicata trad, Bouldering e altri stili

Lat / Long: 47.023246, -71.545036

Summary:

Arrampicata trad, Arrampicata sportiva e altri stili

Lat / Long: 46.922044, -71.989257

Summary:

Bouldering, Con corda dall'alto e altri stili

Lat / Long: 46.880285, -71.378650

Summary:

Arrampicata trad, Arrampicata sportiva e Con corda dall'alto

Lat / Long: 47.665469, -70.296757

sommario

Only 100km east of Quebec City, the Charlevoix region harbors the highest concentration of accessible moderate trad multi-pitch climbs.

Summary:

Tutti Arrampicata su roccia

Lat / Long: 46.813420, -71.271820

Summary:

Arrampicata trad, Arrampicata sportiva e altri stili

Lat / Long: 46.289408, -70.845564

Summary:

Per lo più Arrampicata trad

Lat / Long: 46.135500, -71.100460

descrizione

À ne pas confondre avec le Gros Morne! Ce site peu connu est pourtant d'une qualité incroyable. Une roche surprenante, une tranquillité rare et des voies de tous les calibres, et de tous les styles, font du Grand Morne un endroit à découvrir en escalade au Québec.

Il existe un topo datant de Nico & Cie années 2000 qui est disponible chez Verti Call (https://www.verticallstore.com/Guide_descalade_du_Grand_Morne/p4546831_20632283.aspx)

avvicinamento

(46.134082, -71.099679)

À partir du stationnement, emprunter le sentier de randonnée juste à droite de la cabane d'accueil. Rapidement (avant le pont en bois) vous verrez un sentier secondaire partant vers la droite. C'est le sentier d'approche que vous pourrez suivre jusqu'à arriver devant le secteur "La Grande Face"

storia

https://vimeo.com/130052526

Summary:

Per lo più Arrampicata sportiva

Lat / Long: 46.443669, -70.590614

sommario

Trois secteurs d'escalade un peu au nord du Mont-Orignal.

descrizione

L'accès au site est possible grâce au travail incroyable des bénévoles que Club d'escalade et de montagnes des Appalaches (CEMA), de la FQME et avec l'accord des propriétaires des terrains. S.V.P. respectez les conditions d'accès, encouragez le CEMA en achetant le topo du Rakkup à un prix modique et payez vos droits d'accès à la FQME, c'est le minimum que vous pouvez faire pour assurer la pérennité de votre sport. N'oubliez pas d'encourager les commerces locaux et dire que vous venez faire de l'escalade.

Topo Rakkup : https://rakkup.com/guidebooks/quebec-saint-leon-de-standon-rock-climbing/

CEMA : https://www.facebook.com/CEMA.club.montagne

FQME :

https://fqme.qc.ca/sites/montagne-du-soleil-couchant-st-leon-de-standon-fqme/

https://fqme.qc.ca/adherer/

limitazioni per l'accesso

Le site est ouvert du 1er juin au 30 septembre. Il est STRICTEMENT INTERDIT d'y circuler pendant la période de la chasse en octobre et novembre. Si le propriétaire rencontre une personne sur le site pendant la chasse, il en interdira l'accès pour TOUJOURS.

dove alloggiare

Camping Rivière Etchemin : https://www.campingriviereetchemin.com/

Camping Le Rescapé : https://www.campingrescape.com/

Camping Lac Etchemin : https://campinglacetchemin.com/

Summary:

Arrampicata sportiva, Bouldering e altri stili

Lat / Long: 47.885417, -68.791100

Summary:

Arrampicata sportiva, Con corda dall'alto e altri stili

Lat / Long: 47.673074, -69.740534

sommario

A sport-route crag including some top-roping options. All routes are single pitch.

descrizione

Located 3kms from the village of Saint-Andre-de-Kamouraska on the south side of the Saint-Laurent river, the Kamourasaka crag is operated by the SEBKA (http://sebka.ca/), which in turn also operate a campground 1 km from the approach parking. Annual access memberships which are also valid for la Montagne d'Argent in the Laurentides ( north of Montreal, near the village of Saint-Jovite) are available for purchase at the minimal cost of 40$. Daily access rates are available at the SEBKA information center (Currently 10$).

The rock formation is orto-quartzite and is riddled with mono-finger sized pockets straight through full-on arm and leg pockets.

On a side note, depending on the time of year, be prepared for droves of mosquitoes. Be warned and come prepared.

A map and guide-book of the crag are available for a 2$ donation at the information center.

All routes are single pitch, under the 30m mark. No more then a 60m rope and 12 draws max should be required. Lower-off anchors are generally chain and ring/link and in some cases are placed 1 foot or so away from the cliff's edge. Over-hanging or roof route anchors are either after top out or mid-roof. The complete list of routes and number of bolts per route, is available at the SEBKA information center, again for a 1$ contribution.

limitazioni per l'accesso

Helmets are mandatory (they actually do enforce it).

This crag is privately owned but operated by the SEBKA. Access to the crag is allowed via the property/farm owner by utilizing the indicated trail at the parking lot. As for any crag around the world, please respect his property in order to maintain access is to this jewel of a crag.

Parking passes are available at the SEBKA information center.

People who wish to climb need to pay a fee at the SEBKA. Day passes are on sale for 10$ and annual passes for 40$. This last option also gives you access to "La Montagne d'Argent" in the Laurentians.

avvicinamento

The parking lot is located approx 1 km east of the SEBKA information center along the 132 hwy. Directly across the parking lot is a clearly identified trail, which after a 2 km up-hill approach ( approx 30 mins walk ) leads to the crag. Follow indications along the trail network for "La Grimpe".

Approach trail is clearly identified and maintained. Please keep to the trail.

Once at the crag, expect class 3 terrain along the length of the crag (lots of scrambling on potentially sharp rocks)

dove alloggiare

A camp-ground is operated by the SEBKA offering all services related to car-camping and WIFI in the information center. Water is unfortunately not safe to drink, purchase water prior to arrival or boil on site.

A number of B&B's are scattered along the 132 hwy and the city of Riviere du Loup hosts a number of hotels and motels.

etica

As for the vast majority of crags, this one is owned privately by a local farmer and exploited by the SEBKA. Do your part, respect his property.

Smoking at the crag is considered bad karma.

Dogs are not allowed access.

Summary:

Arrampicata su roccia, Arrampicata sportiva e altri stili

Lat / Long: 47.364076, -70.047037

sommario

Type de roche semblable à Kamouraska, depends du secteur.

descrizione

Situé une heure de la ville de Québec ou 30 min de Kamouraska.

avvicinamento

Prendre l'autoroute 20 de Québec en direction de Rivière-du-Loup. Sortir à centre-ville de la Pocatière, sortie 439.

1.) Pour les secteur Prémutation. Monter la côte vers la Collège. Ensuite tourner à droite continuer jusqu'au Metro puis tourner à droite. Prendre la rue du verger jusqu'à la grande boite au letters de Post Canada à droite. Stationner dans la rue puis suivre le chemin qui mène dans le bois.

2.) Pour le secteur de la Grotte des Fées : Trouvez-vous un stationnement près du Collège. Du stationnement, suivre le sentier principale, ne prenez pas l'escalier, continuez encore. Montez plus loin la pente vers la fôret plus haut. Suivre le versant de la montagne vers la droite jusqu'à la grotte de fées.

Guide de DrTopo :http://www.drtopo.com/north-america/canada/quebec/la-pocatiere

dove alloggiare

SEBKA

storia

Serait semble t'il le lieu du premier 5.14 Québecois.

Summary:

Per lo più Arrampicata sportiva

Lat / Long: 47.537047, -69.811306

sommario

Topo : https://www.escaladequebec.com/topos/topo_Montagne_a_Coton.pdf

descrizione

Corde de 35 mètres nécessaire

avvicinamento

Stationnement : https://goo.gl/maps/2h5uBJZg4yWRPYJ57

Summary:

Tutti Bouldering

Lat / Long: 47.425857, -69.900164

sommario

Topo sur le site des Grimpeurs de l'Est : https://lesgrimpeursdelest.files.wordpress.com/2020/10/topo_m-c.pdf

descrizione

Attention à bien respecter les conditions d'accès et les règles sur le stationnement.

limitazioni per l'accesso

Adhésion FQME journalière ou annuelle obligatoire pour l’accès au site : https://fqme.qc.ca/adherer/

Summary:

Bouldering, Arrampicata trad e altri stili

Lat / Long: 46.357765, -76.453711

Summary:

Tutti Bouldering

Lat / Long: 45.715150, -75.084106

sommario

Beau bloc unique sur le sentier LJP à St-André-Avellin.

descrizione

Le bloc a été nettoyé et brossé en avril 2021. Potentiel totale d'environ 5-6 voies. Convient aux débutant et aux familles. Hauteur de 4m.

limitazioni per l'accesso

Très facile par le sentier aménagé

avvicinamento

500m de marche du stationnement sur le rang st-louis.

Summary:

Arrampicata trad, Bouldering e altri stili

Lat / Long: 45.544346, -76.017588

sommario

Good climbing on solid granite close to Ottawa (Ontario) and Gatineau (Quebec).

descrizione

NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT.

Most of the climbing in Gatineau Park is on the Eardley Escarpment, a granite feature rising along the north shore of the Ottawa River. There are a variety of scattered crags along this feature, mostly single-pitch climbing though with a few longer climbs.

Note: grades (except on sport climbs over about 5.10a) in this area tend to be "old-school".

limitazioni per l'accesso

NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT.

https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted".

The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing.

Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up.

The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing

While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing.

avvicinamento

Varies from area to area -- 15 minutes to an hour or so.

etica

No new development or bolting allowed. Strong tradition of leaving trad routes trad, even if badly run-out.

Summary:

Arrampicata trad, Arrampicata su ghiaccio e altri stili

Lat / Long: 45.933812, -75.882803

sommario

Cracks: from thin fingers to chimneys. Ice in winter.

descrizione

Mont Ste-Marie is a small but complex crag just below the Mont Ste-Marie ski resort, and overlooking the Lac Ste-Marie golf course. The rock is generally compact and solid once surface plating is removed, and tends towards vertical or near-vertical crack lines, making for many excellent gear-protected lines. The top of most climbs can, also, be reached for setting top-ropes.

The crag is primarily west-facing, getting afternoon sun, though some sections and climbs stay shaded most of the day. There is also reasonable tree cover across much of the base.

Most/all climbs have a rock at the base with their name.

As this crag is quite new, most/all grades are still subject to discussion/confirmation.

The climbs left of the "Flight Deck", up to and including "San Diago" are easily reachable from the top by hiking up and around the left end of the crag.

For climbs right of this, it is more complicated. There are a couple of approach anchors that can work for most the climbs except "Flight Deck, Front" where you need to climb "Challenger" (short 5.6 with two bolts), and "Ivy League Dreams" which is more complicated, and probably not top-rope accessible.

The ice climbs form on the right end, beginning just past "Ive League Dreams".

limitazioni per l'accesso

The crag is on municipal land that is zoned for mixed recreational use.

avvicinamento

The approach is currently under construction. Literally. New roads are being built at the time of publication, for what looks like a new cottage sub-division to go in, making describing exactly how to find the start of the approach a bit tricky.

Davos Road (Rue de Davos) used to end in a turn-around at (45.9413900, -75.8855000) https://www.google.com/maps/place/45%C2%B056'29.0%22N+75%C2%B053'07.5%22W/@45.9413889,-75.8876054,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x0:0xf07b52162d87f98e!8m2!3d45.9413889!4d-75.8854167 . This is still the best point to park and meet someone.

From there, follow the newly constructed road as it continues (down hill a bit) then take the first left, which will go up hill a bit. About 200m after the left, look for an obvious trail heading off into the woods on the right. It is ATV wide, and double-rutted. You will see a small white sign on a tree as well, about 15 metres off the road.

Follow this trail for several hundred metres down the hill and across some low-lying land that is often wet. Look for a flagged trail on the left, about 5m before the third plastic culvert.

The flagged trail will branch shortly after it starts, with the left branch taking a steepish approach and arriving at Iron Lotus at the left end of the crag, whereas the right branch is more gentle, and brings you to the right end of the crag, close to the climb "Ivy League Dreams".

Ivy League Dreams is the right-most current climb, and right of it is often wet, and forms ice in the winter.

etica

Keep things clean. The crag overlooks a local golf course - don't be loud enough to annoy the golfers.

Check with Doug & Nicole before doing any development work. (Contact me, David Gibbs, if you wish to be put in contact with them.)

storia

The crag was developed by Nicole Fodor and Douglas Fleck, starting in 2016. It was opened to the public with about 20 finished lines in May 2022, though development continues. At the time when they started development, the line named San Diago had been climbed before, and had pre-existing top anchors, but there was no evidence of climbing on other lines.

Summary:

Arrampicata sportiva, Arrampicata trad e altri stili

Lat / Long: 45.902165, -75.783665

sommario

Primarily moderate (5.5 to 5.10) sport routes on generally slabby gneiss/diorite looking down on a picturesque lake.

descrizione

Lac Sam is a small lake about 70km north of Ottawa. It is horse-shoe shaped, with steep hills and cliffs rising out of the back of the horseshoe up to almost 250m in total height gain, though not all of it rock face.

Being south-facing, Lac Sam is best as a spring and fall crag. On a sunny mid-summer day, it will be hot, and even the shadier bases (e.g. Lower Cliff) will be warm.

While Right Wing and Main cliff required some experience, being rappel-in, climb-out crags, both Upper Left Wing and Lower Cliff are reached by a trail to the base, and are "normal" climb-from-the-ground crags with relatively flat bases.

Development has slowed as of 2023, with most of the obvious lines on the currently open walls having been developed. But, there is still undeveloped rock, so there are still opportunities to open new routes, or perhaps even a new wall.

Even the developed areas are "young" so be wary of loose rock, or holds that may break. A helmet is a very good idea. Further, this is set in a hill-side, and after any heavy rain, and especially in the spring, hill-side will wash onto the climbs -- small rocks or loose gravel being the most common issue. If you encounter a small rock on a hold or ledge of a climb, stick it in your pocket until you get to the base, and empty your pockets, there.

Can't decide where to start? Here's what you get at each cliff:

"Right Wing" - quickest approach (15 min), but you'll have to rappel in unless you go to gully wall, longest single-pitch routes (up to 37m), generally some of the cleanest rock as it's been climbed the most, however the base is the steepest, shady at the bottom of TnA Wall, more sun-exposed on Pink Floyd Wall.
"Left Wing" - takes another 10 minutes to get to from "Right Wing"
"Upper Left Wing" - approach is to the base, with a reasonably flat base, mostly shorter single-pitch climbs, with several 5.10+ choices
"Main Cliff" - below and right from "Upper Left Wing", rappel-in, has some of the longest climbs (45m, 2 pitches) at the crag
"Lower Cliff" - approach is about 20 to 25 minutes including a (roped) scramble down a steep gully. The base which is generally comfortable, most shaded.

Developer discussion: https://www.thecrag.com/discussion/3952671888

limitazioni per l'accesso

Other than The Swamp, the cliffs are on crown land.

Note: the private land sign (which appeared in 2018) on the left side of the road as you approach the parking is a lie -- that is crown land. The private land, no hunting sign on the right side of the road was not put up by the land-owner of that particular chunk of land, but by someone else -- the land-owner is unsure who, though he has a guess. (Conversation with land-owner, fall 2018.)

avvicinamento

Most of the climbing is on the "Upper Faces", so this should be your normal approach unless you know what you're doing.

Upper Faces approach:

Normal parking location: http://maps.google.ca/maps?q=45.913049,-75.800455&hl=en&ll=45.912914,-75.800568&spn=0.005173,0.011362&sll=45.902911,-75.805463&sspn=0.01553,0.032015&num=1&t=h&vpsrc=6&z=17 should link to a map that indicates where the pull-off and start of the trail is.

From Ottawa, find yourself on 307 North out of Cantley. Take a left on chemin Des Voyageurs (towards Denholm), straight through the 4-way stop, then left when the road ends at a T-Junction at chemins du Poisson Blanc. Follow this until you hit a left turn for Lac Sam. Shortly (about 350m) after turning off Chemin du Poisson Blanc, there is a wider area with a gravel road branching off to the right. This road (Chemin du Lac Sainte Marie, though unmarked as such) leads over to Lac Sainte Marie after a few twistings and windings. After about 4.8 km, there will be a one-lane track turning off to the left, turn on this. Less than 200m up there will be a pull-off to the right with space for about 5 cars (if you park carefully) and a small trail leading into the brush on the opposite side of the track (currently marked with orange tape). Park here and hike up the trail.

Hiking up the trail will take 10-15 minutes, and bring you out at the top of the escarpment, onto the ridge-top trail. This approach intersects the ridge-top trail above the "TnA Wall" sector of "Right Wing". Descend towards the lake for Right Wing, or turn right and hike (initially more up) along the ridge-top trail for "Left Wing" (see sector for details).

For "Lower Cliff", split left off the main approach trail before crossing the stream (see the crag for details), but it is still a bit "adventurous".

Alternate for "Lower Cliff" (lake approach) and for "Jumping Rock" (DWS) approach:

There is a public access beach with some parking at the tip of the south/west arm of the lake. Boats can be launched from this point. The trip is about 1.5-2km up the lake to the main faces. Then lowest of the cliffs are about a 10-minute bushwhack directly upwards. Lower Cliff is almost directly above the eastern tip of the small island in the north corner of the lake.

Jumping Rock is another 1.5km down the other arm of the lake, past another small island.

5.Superfunwall can be approached by boat, travelling all the way around the lake, or by a bushwhack/trail.

(Google maps can be used to find "Lac Sam, Quebec". )

etica

New routes welcome. Please document them on the crag.

Developer discussion: https://www.thecrag.com/discussion/3952671888

Bolting fine; rap-bolting fine. Please bolt for safe sport or mixed routes. If a route is almost completely bolted, bolt it as sport, rather than leaving just a couple of gear placements needed on an otherwise sport route.

There is lots of rock, try to avoid squeeze jobs.

If something has been climbed on gear, please don't retro-bolt without FA's consent.

storia

As kids, in the 70s, we used to canoe accross the lake and hike/scramble up "the mountain". To my knowledge, none of the main cliffs have had any technical climbing done on them before 2010 (possibly one free solo by Randy Reed) and the start of development by David Gibbs and friends in 2011.

A bit of climbing and cleaning was done on 5.SuperFunWall in summer of 2009 by David Gibbs, Randy Reed, and a friend of Randy's.

The Jumping rock has been climbed DWS a few times over the years.

Summary:

Tutti Arrampicata trad

Lat / Long: 45.930006, -75.808604

sommario

Moderate multi-pitch trad area overlooking Lac Tucker.

descrizione

Fun moderate multi-pitch trad climbing with bolted anchors in a beautiful setting. Cracks and slab with good gear ranging from #0 to #5 cams.

60m rope is fine, 70m is better. Tie knots when rappelling!

limitazioni per l'accesso

The land around the south/west side of the lake is private property, however the north/east side of the lake (where the cliffs are located) are on crown land.

Avoid visiting Lac Tucker during hunting season. The crown land around Lac Tucker, including the approach road, is used by the locals for hunting.

avvicinamento

From Chemin de la Trans Outaouais, drive 2km north on Chemin de la Solitude. It is a rough road but should be doable for any vehicle. Watch for ATV's.

At just under 2km, there's an obvious ATV trail branching left and a street sign for Chemin de la Solitude. Park along the roadside at this intersection. Do not block the road or the ATV trail. There is room for about 4-6 vehicles.

Parking coordinates: 45°55'24.3"N 75°48'01.6"W

Google Maps has been known to send people the wrong way. The route should have you approaching from the south (from Chemin de la Trans Outaouais) and not from the north. Apple Maps does not seem to have this same problem.

Once parked, hike up the ATV trail for about 10 minutes until the trail widens into a gravel washout. Turn right at the washout and follow another ATV trail into the forest for about 5 minutes. Shortly after crossing a low drainage, watch for a flagged trail on the left. Follow the flagged trail for about 10 minutes to the base of Birthday Bunduru.

etica

There is lots of potential for future trad and sport routes, development is welcomed.

Keep trad routes trad. Bolt sport routes for safety. No retro-bolting.

Respect the cottagers and keep the noise down. Consider bringing radios for pitches 3 and 4 as it can be difficult to hear your partner.

storia

Birthday Bunduru was originally climbed ground-up in October 2022. Route cleaning and development took place over the summer of 2023 and spring of 2024. The crag was opened to the public in May 2024.

Summary:

Arrampicata trad, Arrampicata sportiva e altri stili

Lat / Long: 46.015129, -75.717431

sommario

The climbing wall is now under management of FQME. see below for details.

A near-vertical wall of granite rising straight of a scenic laurentian lake.

descrizione

Paroi Elephant is thirty meters high and about 200 wide. To date, two fatalities have resulted from people wanting to jump in the water from the top of this cliff.

limitazioni per l'accesso

The main climbing wall is located in the Poisson Blanc Regional Park. Camping on the North half of the lake is managed by the park while the south side of the lake is on crown land. The climbing wall is now managed by FQME, check their website for more details and a full topo. https://fqme.qc.ca/sites/poisson-blanc/

Park info - https://poissonblanc.ca/

There are two main ways to access the lake. First is through the park (see website above), the second is at Base de Plein Air, Air - Eau - Bois http://www.aireaubois.com/ You can rent canoe's at both sites.

Camping is free as long as you stay on the south side of the lake on crown land (about a 10 minute paddle south of the cliff), but to park on the south side near the Base de Plein Air, Air - Eau - Bois there is a parking fee (may be cash only).

avvicinamento

About a 7.65km paddle (or boat) North from the put in site at Base de Plein Air, Air - Eau - Bois. If you stick to the right shore line you will see the wall on the right (with a few good swimming spots on the way)

Once at the wall the only way to get to the bottom of each climb is a boat belay. There is a path on the right that can be used to head up and down to set up top ropes. Only about 5 minutes up or down.

dove alloggiare

Camping is free as long as you stay on the south side of the lake on crown land (about a 10 minute paddle south of the cliff). Paid camp sites can be booked through the park. Check out this link for info and a map. http://poissonblanc.ca/camping/camping-sur-les-iles/

etica

The climbing wall is now managed by FQME, check their website for more details and a full topo. https://fqme.qc.ca/sites/poisson-blanc/

Since the site is insured by the FQME, you must contact the FQME before bolting new routes in the area.

storia

There is some history of climbing on the lake as far back as the 1980s, although it is likely people have been climbing here much before that. It is currently unknown (to me) who set the first anchors on the wall. However, recently the FQME has been developing the wall and setting several new sport routes on the main wall.

Summary:

Tutti Bouldering

Lat / Long: 45.490635, -75.619267

sommario

Easily accessed boulders in wooded city park. Reaching 100ish problems by the end of summer.

descrizione

It's not a place with huge boulders. Thus why the traverses. The problem are original in most of the cases. Also, it's not an ''official spot'' where everything is well cleaned out and super safe. Some problems aren't easy to find either. You need to be adventurer and to love hiking a little to go there.

Hope you enjoy !

Address: 741 Boulevard Maloney Est, Gatineau, QC Location: 45.487677, -75.622176

You may also check/join the facebook page on the following link : https://www.facebook.com/lacbeauchampboulder?fref=ts

You may also check a few videos I made for some live topo !!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h98xXCeqBxM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xv6LqdNKSXE

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BuOH6fCByJY

Access is questionable, at best. The current phrasing on the NCC website is to list only the sections of the park where climbing is open, and this is not listed.

avvicinamento

5minutes walk

Summary:

Tutti Bouldering

Lat / Long: 45.472855, -75.792465

descrizione

Big and round boulder close to a biking path in Gatineau Park. Top out is sketchy for most of the routes as the boulder is really tall, rounded, dirty on top and also the is brittle and of poor quality. Landing is good until you reach 3-4 meters in height.

Access is questionable, at best. This is not part of the escarpment, so one might argue it isn't covered by the closure -- but the current phrasing on the NCC website is to list only the sections of the park where climbing is open, and this is not listed.

avvicinamento

The access is pretty easy. You walk around 8 minutes south on the Gatineau Park Pathway directly facing 139 Chemin de la Mine. It will be on your right after you go past the second huge electricity pole.

storia

None.

sommario

Klimat is a brand new, state of the art bouldering and fitness centre, located in the heart of the Gatineau Hills, in the small village of Wakefield, Quebec.

descrizione

The first floor is dedicated to 3200 square feet of bouldering surface which accommodates approximately 80 finely crafted bouldering problems. Complete with a 12x12 Kilterboard, adjustable to 55 degrees, hangboards, rings, bars, and a 12 foot wide campus board.

descrizione

Climbing in gym in Gatineau Quebec.

http://altitudegym.ca/en/gatineau/

35 Boulevard Saint-Raymond Gatineau, Québec J8Y 1R5

http://www.altitudegym.ca/

call: (819) 205-0959

Summary:

Tutti Bouldering

Lat / Long: 45.497966, -75.688254

descrizione

In this area the wall is 3 to 5 meters in height. The length of the wall is about 100 meters. Mostly vertical with small roofs.

avvicinamento

From hospital street, in front of boulevard Mont-royal street park and walk 5 minutes

Summary:

Tutti Bouldering

Lat / Long: 45.600066, -75.623823

sommario

Parc Marc Carrière contains one prominent roadside boulder and some additional boulder problems on the opposite side of the road up trail on the west side of the river.

descrizione

With straight up lines, jug starts, and complete topouts you’ll find that the boulders at Parc Marc Carrière offer enjoyable accessible bouldering. Since this is a public park and other people enjoy it please do not play loud music.

--FR

Des lignes directes, des départs dans des bacs et des sorties de problème satisfaisantes, les blocs du parc Marc Carrière offrent des problèmes accessibles et stimulants. Le parc est public et ouvert pour tous, donc ne jouez pas de la musique forte.

Le parc Marc Carrière contient un bloc évident sur le bord de la route et des problèmes additionnels de l’autre côté de la route, le long d’un sentier du côté ouest du cours d’eau.

limitazioni per l'accesso

The bouldering at Parc Marc Carrière is located on the park land and is not privately owned. The neighboring property owner approached one group of climbers and seemed friendly. There is signage that states that the park is closed between the months of November to April, however you will find people snowshoeing and walking throughout these winter months regardless so it’s likely no issue. There is roadside parking which can park about 10 cars - please lookout for the no-parking signs if you find that the parking is fully occupied.

-- FR

Les blocs se trouvent à l’intérieur des limites du parc Marc Carrière, ils ne sont pas sur une propriété privée. Des panneaux indiquent que le parc est fermé entre les mois de novembre et d’avril, mais on peut voir des utilisateurs y faire de la raquette ou prendre des marches durant l’hiver malgré tout, donc ce n’est probablement pas un problème. Un espace de stationnement pouvant accueillir environ 10 véhicules est aménagé le long de l’aire de jeu. Faites attention à la signalisation interdisant le stationnement dans les rues environnantes si le stationnement principal est plein.

avvicinamento

Park your car and look across the road where you will find the “Walk in a Park” boulder. To locate the other boulders walk across the bridge and onto the trail along the river. The boulders are located up trail and near to the river - not difficult to locate.

-- FR

À partir du stationnement, vous verrez de l’autre côté de la route le bloc “Walk in a Park”. Pour trouver les autres blocs, traversez le pont et prenez le sentier qui suit le cours d’eau. Les blocs sont un peu plus loin, près de l’eau, ils ne sont pas difficiles à trouver.

storia

The current known history is that PL Gyre began looking at these boulders, cleaning some, and climbing a few lines back around 2018.

-- FR

Au moment d’écrire ces lignes, c’est PL Gyre qui a remarqué ces blocs, en a nettoyé quelques uns et a grimpé sur quelques problèmes vers 2018.

Summary:

Arrampicata trad, Arrampicata sportiva e Con corda dall'alto

Lat / Long: 45.671677, -74.973261

sommario

Paroi de faible inclinaison d’escalade traditionnelle.

Lovely small crag with trad slab climbing.

descrizione

Le site se compare à Chico de Val-David ou bien le site de la Montagne Verte, mais sans approche à pied. L’assurage peut presque se faire de la voiture ! Pour ceux qui aime la sécurité de la moulinette, l’installation se fait facilement avec des sentiers aménagés. Paroi de 28 mètres. Quelques voies restent à ouvrir aux extrémités de la paroi en date de mai 2023. N’hésitez pas à demander à la communauté afin d’ouvrir un nouveau projet sur le site.

Slab climbing on gear, usually with good gear, though occasionally a bit run-out. Some of the lines are a bit indistinct, but can be figured out. Anchors should be reachable by hiking around the top for top-roping.

Possibility of more routes on the edges, but ask the community before starting work on anything.

limitazioni per l'accesso

Don't park on the side of the road below the cliff -- there is a small gravel parking area on the other side of the road a few meters before the crag which has been negotiated with the municipality as climbing for the crag.

avvicinamento

Quelques secondes.

Cross the road, cross the ditch, you're there.

Summary:

Arrampicata trad, Bouldering e altri stili

Lat / Long: 45.666253, -74.963183

sommario

Le rocher du capitaine est un site de grimpe de difficulté modéré principalement en escalade traditionnelle ou mixte.

descrizione

Pour les grimpeurs de l'Outaouais, le site se compare à HomeCliff, mais sans approche à pied. L’assurage peut presque se faire de la voiture ! Pour ceux qui aime la sécurité de la moulinette, l’installation se fait facilement avec des sentiers aménagés.

limitazioni per l'accesso

Prenez l’autoroute 50 jusqu’à la sortie Montebello. Direction sud sur la route 323 sur quelques centaines de mètres. Ensuite tournez à droite sur le chemin St-Hyacinthe. Vous trouverez le site 2 minutes plus tard sur votre droite. Stationnez-vous sur le bord de chemin après le gros bloc “Iceberg”.

Lien : https://goo.gl/maps/cBVygrhyVS142hKZ8

avvicinamento

Il y a 2 sentiers qui part de la route, à gauche de l’Iceberg pour les blocs et les voies 1 à 6. 100 pieds à droite de l’Iceberg, vous verrez un sentier qui arrive au mur principal des voies 7 à 14. Si vous restez au bas de la paroi, continuez sur le sentier pour découvrir les 2 autres murs avec de superbes voies.

etica

Plusieurs problèmes de blocs restent à ouvrir ainsi que quelques voies. N’hésitez pas à demander à la communauté afin d’ouvrir un nouveau projet sur le site.

Summary:

Arrampicata sportiva, Arrampicata trad e Con corda dall'alto

Lat / Long: 45.860141, -75.703995

sommario

A forested single pitch crag with routes from 5.6 to 5.12 and a flat family-friendly base.

descrizione

A single pitch (60m rope good for all routes) crag in the le parc régional de la Forêt Bowman, with a nice flat bse (family-friendly) and generally well-bolted (glue-ins throughout) routes.

The FQME has a lot of information at: https://fqme.qc.ca/sites/panorama-bowman/ and a topo at https://fqme.qc.ca/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/BOWMAN_GUIDEBOOK.pdf .

Note: the FQME topo has chosen to list and number the routes from right to left. I have chosen to stick with the standard left-to-right here. -DAG

The FQME topo for Panorama/Bowman has explicitly chosen to recognize the work done on route development by the "Ouvreur-équipeur (OE)" and where different from the first ascensionist, I have recorded that information here as "Route Setter".

limitazioni per l'accesso

Access is supported by the local municipality, though the FQME and an FQME membership or day-pass is required to climb there. See: https://fqme.qc.ca/adherer/ for membership or day-pass.

avvicinamento

Parking co-ordinates are: 45.859278, -75.708083 - but Google maps will (May 2022) take you wrong. From Ottawa, you want to find yourself on highway 307 North (by whatever way you prefer to exit town) driving past St Pierre de Wakefield then Poltimore (don't forget to turn left in Poltimore to follow the 307.) After passing "Camping Thom", you will cross a largish bay from the lake on the right. A couple 100 meters later (2.5 km from camping Thom), you will want to turn left onto rue Faubert. This will shortly take a sharp left, with a gravel road (chemin du Lac Brochet) continuing straight -- take this. After about a kilometer you'll pass a little picnic area (with swimming) on the right, and continue until you reach a Y. Stay left at the Y, climb up a hill (usually in pretty good shape) and come to the parking.

From the parking, there is a 4-whweeler trail (for rescue access, if needed) and hikers trail heading into the forest past the sign-board. Follow either until you reach the look-out (Panorama), then there will be a marked climber's trail that will drop you down to the base of the cliff. About 20 minutes hiking to get to the base.

Summary:

Arrampicata trad, Bouldering e altri stili

Lat / Long: 45.548895, -71.945151

descrizione

This is the south-eastern corner of Quebec, south of Quebec city and south-east of Montreal. From a climber's perspective, this is the where the northern tip of the Appalachian range pokes up into Canada, and ends on the north at the St. Lawrence river valley.

Summary:

Bouldering, Arrampicata sportiva e altri stili

Lat / Long: 45.300031, -72.229953

descrizione

Mont Orford is a climbing area in Mont-Orford National Park (Parc National du Mont-Orford) a provincial park in Quebec, just west of the city of Sherbrooke.

The primary guide is "Escalade au Mont Orford: Guide des voies et blocs" which is in French, but with an English translation of the introduction and a small translation guide for French terms used in describing routes/climbing.

Orford is primarily a sport-climbing destination with steep compact rock, well-textured with holds.

There is also a field of boulders along the base, with more than 50 developed problems from V0 to V7. (Probably more, both in number & upper range, since guide publication in 1999.)

limitazioni per l'accesso

Rock-climbing is generally well-recognized by the administration of the park. Rock-climbing access is specifically mentioned and times (daily, yearly, with possible falcon closures) on the park website:

http://www.sepaq.com/pq/mor/index.dot#Item3123625

(Escalade is French for climbing.)

Daily access is (currently) $6.50 per person. An annual pass for the park would be $32.50, and an annual pass for all Quebec "National" (provincial) parks would be $58.50. ( http://www.sepaq.com/pq/tarification-parcs-nationaux.dot ).

avvicinamento

Park on the north side of route 112 just west of the "Motel Rond Point", about 1.5km west of the intersection 112 and 141, just off exit 115 from Autoroute 10.

Walk up the obvious trail, about 1.1km to the cliffs.

storia

Little climbing before the "sport" revolution in the 90s.

Summary:

Per lo più Arrampicata trad

Lat / Long: 45.023421, -71.896913

sommario

The biggest wall you'll find close to Montreal, roughly 150m high.

avvicinamento

Accessible from the top or the bottom. From the top, park your car in Baldwin village and take the mont Pinacle Trail. 3.6km. Rappel down to the bottom, it is highly recommended to rappel on two 70m ropes for safety. There is bolted relays all the way down.

Summary:

Per lo più Arrampicata trad

Lat / Long: 45.476328, -72.175621

sommario

Close to the city, wide range of difficulties and easy access to the top to install the topropes.

descrizione

The lake La Rouche crag is a nice small spot close (20-25 minutes drive) from Sherbrooke. The access is short and easy, and the crag presents routes from 5.1 to 5.12, with almost everything that's in between. While it is most known as a toprope rock school crag, there are some serious trad routes here, from classics nice ones to hard others. There is only one sport route, and not the easiest (5.12 b/c).

Nice place for short days, to practice technique or to introduce new friends to climbing!

A detailed topo with photos and route descriptions has been created by Jean-Philippe Gouin, owner of "école d'escalade et de montagne Chamox". It can be accessed here: http://wp.chamox.com/topo. The password can be obtained by filling in your name and email address in the form.

All the top anchors can be reached from a nice trail on the right of the first routes. You can't miss it! Almost every route is equipped with two stainless bolts so you can easily set your anchor. Please, don't belay directly from the fixed gear. In most case, a third bolt as been set to allow you to clip in your daisy chain before you reach the anchor. Generally, a 120cm daisy is perfect, and a 120cm anchor will generally clear the rock and let your biners free in the air. Enjoy!

limitazioni per l'accesso

45.473637, -72.176758 Take route 222 from Sherbrooke (from route 249, if you come from Montreal and exit the highway right after Magog). Once you've passed the campground near Lac Brompton, you're almost there; Pass chemin Bombardier on your left, then go up a small hill. The entrance is on the other side of the hill; As soon as the road starts to go left, slow down, and look for a green "P" (parking) sign on the right. Seriously slow down before, as the entrance appears at the last moment, and it's a 90 degrees right turn on a dirt road.

avvicinamento

From the parking, take the wide trail behind the gate. The one close to the road is a hiking trail, and while it's a nice one, it will bring you a long way from the wall! Follow the trail for about 50m, and when you see a trail map, turn on your right. You'll cross a small water band, continue until you reach the cliff. Go up all the way until you reach the base of the crag. The whole thing should take about 5-10 minutes!

etica

The history of the site reveals that the access has been a bit precarious, so simply don't bolt anything without asking first. There is a strong reluctance to bolting from the climbers who opened the area ... it is probably meant to remain mostly a trad/toprope area, even though some routes would be better off bolted.

Summary:

Tutti Arrampicata su roccia

Lat / Long: 45.357761, -73.148059

sommario

Area is closed to climbing

descrizione

Unfortunate, this area is permanently closed to climbers. This has occurred for reasons of protection of the ecosystem, more specifically its fragile fauna composed of many endangered species. To preserve optimal mating capabilities of the ecosystem, climbing has been forbidden by the CIME (Centre d'interprétation du milieu écologique du Haut-Richelieu).

sorry info only in french. "www.cimehautrichelieu.qc.ca/documents/FHQE/Fiche8.Escalade.pdf"

also mentioned in the Guide des Parois de l'Estrie (Guidebook of the area)

CIMES website for more information http://www.cimehautrichelieu.qc.ca/

limitazioni per l'accesso

Area closed to climbing

10ch. de la Plage des Cantons

Canton de Magog

Quebec J1X 5X8 Canada

call: (819) 868-0444

descrizione

1021 Cowie

Granby

Quebec j2g 8w8 Canada

http://www.pleindair.com/#!accueil/mainPage

call: 450-777-7496

descrizione

1021 rue Cowie- C.P. 786

Qubec

Quebec J2G 8W8 Canada

http://www.pleindair.com/

call: (450) 777-7496, (450) 375-7003

Summary:

Tutti Bouldering

Lat / Long: 45.551348, -73.155759

sommario

Peu connue, cette région possède pourtant quelques petits trésors cachés, une roche surprenante et des parois tranquilles, loin des foules.

Summary:

Arrampicata trad, Arrampicata sportiva e altri stili

Lat / Long: 48.327959, -70.712786

Summary:

Arrampicata trad e Arrampicata aid

Lat / Long: 48.318017, -70.327265

Summary:

Arrampicata trad, Arrampicata sportiva e altri stili

Lat / Long: 48.440129, -71.066288

sommario

Right on the side of the saguenay river. All the cliff are facing south and have an amazing view over the city. All the area have easy access. 10 minutes to drive from downtown.

descrizione

In chicoutimi, you can find more then 200 routes located on 4 different crag: le 24h, la croix, Roussel Ouest et Roussel Est. The rock is mostly made of pink granite. Watch out in some of those crag because the rock at the bottom of some have been polished and are really slippery. The Club de Montagne du Saguenay is working on a new topo. If you need any information, here is the website : http://www.clubmontagnesaguenay.com/#! You can also look at the facebook group.

limitazioni per l'accesso

Some small cliff have access problem that the Club de Montagne du Saguenay (CMS) is working on but most of them are open all year long. The cliff named Marshmallow needs to be watched before accessing because there are peregrim falcom nesting all year long.

avvicinamento

All the crag from chicoutimi have a 5 minutes approach walk. You'll have plenty places to park on the side of the road or on streets around. The crags are located in the north part of Chicoutimi so you'll to cross over the dubuc bridge by car or walk/bike accross the pedestrian bridge.

dove alloggiare

There are different hostel at chicoutimi Youth hostel = https://ajsaguenay.com/

You can also find two campground in the north part of Chicoutimi. - Camping Plage Margot = http://www.saguenaycamping.com/ - Camping Lac Joly = http://www.campinglacjoly.com/

etica

The Mountain Club manage the different crag for the climbing federetation and are the one responsable of the access, the bolting and the cleaning of the crag.

Summary:

Tutti Arrampicata trad

Lat / Long: 48.424332, -71.250263

descrizione

Please help locate these areas and routes properly

sommario

Roche conglomérat rouge très fragile, potentiel peu exploré et mérite plus d'attention. Pour le moment, il n'y a qu'une voie bolté en sport et quelques lignes de mixte.

storia

Très connu pour son escalade de glace, le site a du potentiel pour le développement de voies sport.

descrizione

5.8 à 5.13 - Environ 20 voies 8 à 15m

limitazioni per l'accesso

Le site est affilié à la FQME. Il faut donc être membre pour pouvoir y grimper. Si vous n’êtes pas membre de la fédération, vous pouvez acheter une adhésion journalière.

avvicinamento

De Carleton-sur-Mer, emprunter la route 132 vers l’ouest. En arrivant dans la municipalité de Pointe-à-la-Croix, tourner à droite sur le Chemin des Méandres et continuer pour 2 km. Juste avant une vieille maison blanche, vous trouverez une entrée de gravier qui mène au stationnement.

Approche : Suivez le sentier qui débute au fond du stationnement et qui monte jusqu’aux falaises, visibles de la route. L’approche est courte, mais soutenue. Il faut en moyenne de 15 à 20 minutes pour se rendre aux différents secteurs.

Coordonnées GPS de l’entrée du site : 48.053370°, -66.663707°

etica

Le développement de voies d’escalade, pose d’ancrages, coupe d’arbres, nettoyage de blocs, sentiers, etc., doivent être effectués par des ouvreurs-équipeurs brevetés ayant obtenu l’autorisation préalable de la FQME.

Responsables de l’aménagement : La FQME et le comité local du Bloc de l’est.

Summary:

Per lo più Bouldering

Lat / Long: 48.918743, -68.595885

Summary:

Tutti Bouldering

Lat / Long: 48.539521, -69.253384

descrizione

avvicinamento

Après Baie-Comeau, continuez sur la route 138 EST environ 25 km. Vous devriez arriver à la rivière Mistassini 2-3 km avant le village de Franklin. Environ 1 km après avoir traversé le pont de la rivière Mistassini, utilisez le petite sentier derrière le garde-fou du côté droit pour descendre. À noter que l'accotement à l'opposé de la rivière (côté forêt) est plus large et permet de stationner.

dove alloggiare

Vous trouverez tout ce dont vous avez besoin à Baie-Comeau. Par contre, si vous voulez minimiser vos déplacements, il y a un dépanneur à Franquelin où vous trouverez l'essentiel. Pour dormir, une multitude d'hotels et d'auberges sont à votre disposition. Toutefois, le camping sauvage sur les belles plages de la Côte-Nord demeure une option intéressante. Soyez vigilants avec les marées et assurez-vous de déplacer votre tente assez loin de l'eau (sur la plage de Mistassini, peu d'endroits sont à l'abri des marées).

etica

Mistassini est un petit regroupement de chalets sur le bord du fleuve. SVP, faites attention pour ne pas déranger les résidents, qui sont pour la plupart, très réceptifs et intrigués à l'idée de nous voir grimper leurs grosses roches. Si vous songez à pêcher, veuillez vous assurer d'avoir les permis/droits nécessaires.

Summary:

Bouldering, Arrampicata sportiva e Arrampicata trad

Lat / Long: 48.127417, -77.934874

Summary:

Bouldering, Arrampicata sportiva e Arrampicata trad

Lat / Long: 48.182859, -79.194205

sommario

Refers to https://escaladeabitibi.wordpress.com/

descrizione

Outre les sentiers qui sont aménagés pour la randonnée et la raquette, le site offre un très grand potentiel pour l’escalade de blocs et de voies. Entre autres, le champ de blocs est l’un des plus imposants au Québec et la Grande Falaise, d’une hauteur de 40 mètres, offre un point de vue insaisissable sur la forêt et les lacs environnants.

Summary:

Arrampicata trad e Arrampicata sportiva

Lat / Long: 47.337790, -79.430086

avvicinamento

Le nouveau parking est au bout de la rue de la montagne, prendre le sentier baliser en direction des paroies, bifurquer a gauche pour le secteur du haut ou tourner a droite pour celui du bas!

Summary:

Arrampicata trad e Arrampicata sportiva

Lat / Long: 47.302321, -79.427086

Summary:

Per lo più Arrampicata su ghiaccio

Lat / Long: 53.768130, -71.461195

Climbing in Québec is often on, or passes through, private property. Make sure to keep up to date with current access issues. FQME provides a (somewhat) up-to-date spreadsheet. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1iVagXxManOSmh5i0zpdB2PyooPvoV88OuTRxgUVOZJI/edit#gid=0

Summary:

Tutti Arrampicata su ghiaccio

Summary:

Tutti Arrampicata su ghiaccio

Lat / Long: 47.418497, -71.214069

Summary:

Per lo più Arrampicata su ghiaccio

Lat / Long: 48.769125, -65.766475

Summary:

Tutti Arrampicata su ghiaccio

Table of contents

1. Québec 5,966 routes in Region

1.1. Laurentides 1,941 routes in Region

1.1.1. Lac Boisseau 35 routes in Crag

1.1.2. Montagne d'Argent 268 routes in Crag

1.1.3. Kanata (Tremblant) 82 routes in Crag

1.1.4. Mont Baldy 62 routes in Crag

Accesso: Re-opened ... Climb on!

1.1.5. Morin-Heights 190 routes in Crag

1.1.6. Mont Nixon 1 route in Crag

1.1.7. Cap des Pères 26 routes in Crag

Accesso: Closed fermée

1.1.8. Parc d'Escalade Julien Labedan 58 routes in Crag

1.1.9. Sainte-Adèle 3 routes in Area

1.1.10. Val-Morin 24 routes in Region

1.1.11. Val-David 1,018 routes in Crag

1.1.12. Weir 94 routes in Crag

1.1.13. Montagne Verte 5 routes in Area

1.1.14. Lac Gervais 43 routes in Crag

1.1.15. Action Directe 0 routes in Gym

1.1.16. Attitude Montagne 16 routes in Crag

1.1.17. Paroi Laurin - La Macaza 16 routes in Crag

1.2. Lanaudière 530 routes in Region

1.2.1. Rivière Ouareau 34 routes in Crag

1.2.2. Lac Blanc 30 routes in Crag

1.2.3. Lac Castor 39 routes in Cliff

1.2.4. Les Contreforts 5 routes in Cliff

1.2.5. Au 4 sommets 2 routes in Cliff

1.2.6. Saint-Alph 127 routes in Crag

1.2.7. Centre-Ville 31 routes in Area

1.2.8. La montagne du Tranchant 49 routes in Crag

1.2.9. Proximus (Sainte-Émilie-de-l’Énergie) 35 routes in Crag

1.2.10. Sérénité (Sainte-Émilie-de-l’Énergie) 57 routes in Crag

1.2.11. Mont-Chauve 9 routes in Area

1.2.12. Lac du cap 112 routes in Area