Grado | Via | Stile equipaggiamento | Qualità | Arrampicatore | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Lun 13 Mag 2024 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Cap Blanc | |||||||
5.10b/c ~5.10c | Hanche Gauche | ||||||
5.11c ~5.11b | Fruit d'homme | ||||||
5.9 ~5.10a | ★ 5.95 | ★ Buona | |||||
5.10c | ★★★ Le Slip | ★★★ Mega Classica | |||||
Sab 27 Apr 2024 - Portneuf | |||||||
Lac Long Célébration | |||||||
5.11c | Lilou — 2 tentativi - con Caro, Nelson | 30m, 13 | |||||
Sab 27 Apr 2024 - Portneuf | |||||||
Lac Long Atomic Limbo | |||||||
5.10b | Codeinomane - con Nelson | 34m | |||||
Sab 27 Apr 2024 - Portneuf | |||||||
Lac Long l'Arène | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ Get to work M.F.s | 25m | |||||
5.8 | Piercing d'Aphrodite - con Nelson | 23m, 1 | |||||
Mar 23 Apr 2024 - Portneuf | |||||||
Gros Bonnet Transcanadienne | |||||||
5.10 | ★ Transcanadienne | 110m, 8 | ★ Buona | ||||
Lun 11 Mar 2024 - Portneuf | |||||||
Lac Long La Plage | |||||||
5.8 | Salopette - con Phil | 30m, 3 | |||||
Was still wet and icy. We went up to clean a deathblock from above. Protects well.
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Lun 22 Gen 2024 - Quebec City | |||||||
Champlain | |||||||
5.6 | ★★ Offwidth crack | 5m | |||||
5.8 | ★ Chemine 1 | 9m | |||||
5.6 | ★ Chemine 2 | 9m | |||||
5.8 | ★ Miroir | 9m | |||||
5.7 | ★ Chemine 3 | 9m | |||||
5.7 | ★★ Le tombeau | 11m | |||||
Mer 25 Ott 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme Tache blanche | |||||||
5.8 |
Temps de Cure
- con
PAB, Léa
3
5.8
Finished straight up through the bush to avoid soaking wet rock.
4
5.7
A few loose rocks remaining. Great pitch. Long but not much rope drag. | 210m | |||||
5.7 G |
★★ Voie de Rappel
- con
PAB, Léa
1
arrampicata in lead da
Léa
2
arrampicata in lead da
PAB
Finished in the dihedral and large flake leading to "Temps de cure" second anchor. | 150m | |||||
Gio 19 Ott 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme Wet Dreams | |||||||
5.4 G | ★ La petite ecole - con Léa, Charle-Antoine | 15m | |||||
5.5 | Unknown easy route - con Léa, Charle-Antoine | 15m | |||||
Sab 14 Ott 2023 - Portneuf | |||||||
Lac Long Fougère à me plaire | |||||||
5.8 | ★★★ Fougere a me plaire - con Cyn | 25m | |||||
Sab 14 Ott 2023 - Portneuf | |||||||
Lac Long La Croisée des Chemins | |||||||
5.6 | Répète - con Éli, Julien | 15m, 6 | |||||
Sab 14 Ott 2023 - Portneuf | |||||||
Lac Long Les Joyeux naufragés | |||||||
5.9 | Dépression atmosphérique | 35m, 7 | |||||
Sab 14 Ott 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Palissades de Charlevoix L’Arête | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ L'Arrête | ||||||
Mar 10 Ott 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme Tour de controle | |||||||
5.8 |
★★ Passerelle
- con
Léa
1
5.6
A little runout. I did a long pitch (70m) hoping to reach the tree anchor of P2. Didn't make it so I build a gear belay on an uncomfortable stance.
2
5.7
3
5.3
4
5.6
Tried going up the 5.7r but found it too committing while wet. Downclimbed and a few shenanigans later, found myself pulling a nice 5.7 roof crack move and then linking into the last pitch of "Soutien gorge" to avoid the (unfortunately) wet traverse and crack exit.
5
5.8
| 170m | |||||
Lun 2 Ott 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme King Can / Les Toits | |||||||
5.12a G | ★★★ Le baiser de l'homme araignee | 22m | ★★★ Classica | ||||
New highpoint: hands in the top crack, placed the .75 but didn't clip. Found new beta for that section as well as the exit sequence.
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Lun 2 Ott 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme Wet Dreams | |||||||
5.7 | ★★ Le diedral - con Lea, Chantalle | 180m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
Only climbed the first pitch while waiting for "wet dream" to clear up. Second half need a little cleanup. Great climb. The crux (5.7) protects very well.
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5.9 PG | ★★★ Wet Dreams - con Lea, Chantalle | 110m | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
P3 can actually be pretty well protected but the gear is tricky to get in.
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Dom 1 Ott 2023 - Portneuf | |||||||
Lac Long l'Arène | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Epilogue | 26m | |||||
Dom 1 Ott 2023 - Portneuf | |||||||
Lac Long La Croisée des Chemins | |||||||
5.10a | ★★ Pas plus catholique | 15m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
Sab 30 Set 2023 - Portneuf | |||||||
Lac Long Fougère à me plaire | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Tete a Papineau | ★★ Molto buona | |||||
Super voie ... quelques move précis dans une ptite crack
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5.8 | ★★★ Fougere a me plaire | 25m | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Ma trad la plus sérieuse vraiment belle voie
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Sab 30 Set 2023 - Portneuf | |||||||
Lac Long l'Arène | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ Wet Dream | 25m, 10 | ★★★ Classica | ||||
5.8 | Nacho Libre | 30m | |||||
5.10+ | ★★ The Punisher | 25m | |||||
5.7 | ★ Batman | 25m | |||||
Ven 29 Set 2023 - Portneuf | |||||||
Lac Long La Croisée des Chemins | |||||||
5.9 | Scrub Machine | 15m, 6 | ★ Buona | ||||
5.6 | Répète | 15m, 6 | ★ Buona | ||||
5.10- | ★★ La petite orchidée | 15m | |||||
5.7 | ★★★ Tu peux toujours tousser Carole | 15m | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
5.9 | ★★★ Saint-Taliban | 15m | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Gio 28 Set 2023 - Quebec City | |||||||
Champlain | |||||||
5.11d | ★★ Debut de saison | ★★ Molto buona | |||||
5.7 Dura | ★★ Le tombeau | 11m | Media | ||||
5.11c | ★★ Plaisir d'amour | ★★★ Classica | |||||
5.11a | ★★★ Y faut qu'y ait quelqu'un la fasse | ||||||
5.10c | ★★ Acide lactique | ||||||
5.10c | ★ Toit d'Angèle | ||||||
5.12a | Peau de vache et langue de vipère | ||||||
Sab 23 Set 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme Tache blanche | |||||||
5.8 PG | ★★ Au bouleau mon homme - con Léa | 25m | |||||
Thin moves getting to the bolt. Protected as high as I could in the crack with a black totem.
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5.6 G |
★★★ La Granuleuse
- con
Léa, Thomas, Sophie
1
2
3
4
| 170m, 1 | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Lots of people on the wall. We had two parties and decided to climb at the same time in parallel. Had a blast chatting while leading. It really goes pretty much anywhere on P2 and P3.
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Mar 19 Set 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres Mont de l'ours | |||||||
5.7 |
★★★ La Directe de l'ours
1
5.5
45
2
5.7
60
3
5.6
35
| 140m | |||||
Mar 19 Set 2023 - Portneuf | |||||||
Gros Bonnet Transcanadienne | |||||||
5.10 | ★ Transcanadienne | 110m, 8 | |||||
Mar 19 Set 2023 - Portneuf | |||||||
Gros Bonnet Principal | |||||||
5.10a PG13 | De toute beauté | 140m | |||||
Mar 12 Set 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Cap Blanc | |||||||
5.10c | ★★★ Le Slip | ★★★ Classica | |||||
5.12a/b | Jambe droite | ||||||
5.10- | ★ Unknown | ★ Buona | |||||
Mar 12 Set 2023 - Portneuf | |||||||
Gros Bonnet Grandes Dalles | |||||||
5.10c |
★★★ L'Odyssée
1
5.4
2
5.4
3
5.7
4
5.8
5
5.8
6
5.10
7
5.9
8
5.10c
9
5.7
| 360m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
Lun 11 Set 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme Tache blanche | |||||||
5.7 G Dura | ★★★ Gaston Boston | 40m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
5.6 G Dura |
★★★ La Granuleuse
1
2
| 170m, 1 | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
Sab 9 Set 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme Tour de controle | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Passerelle | 170m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
P1: 5.7 (60-70 meters), P2: 5.7 (30 meters) P3 : 5.8 (50-60 meters).
There are a couple of tree belays with slings and cord on them but they can be hard to find. Start at the bottom of a very low angled slab which becomes slgihtly more vertical. We had 2 60s and simuled a for 10 meters but probably because my partner went off route. Second pitch ends with a walk through the bushes on the right of the cliff, just below a 5.11 arch. Third pitch is nice! The roof move on the third pitch is probably why this is 5.8. There are a couple of loose rocks on the third pitch so be mindful of this. |
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Ven 8 Set 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme King Can / Les Toits | |||||||
5.10d | ★ Le Paradoxe des formes | 18m | ★ Buona | ||||
5.10b PG | Eclipse | 28m | |||||
We ended up climbing it in two pitches, building a gear anchor after the slab, before the crux. I fell once on the crux, came back down to the anchor and made it. Interesting one to protect if you have a short reach.
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Mer 6 Set 2023 - Quebec City | |||||||
Champlain | |||||||
5.8 | ★ Chemine 1 | 9m | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Lun 4 Set 2023 - Portneuf | |||||||
Lac Long La Croisée des Chemins | |||||||
5.9 | ★★★ Saint-Taliban | 15m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
Lun 4 Set 2023 - Portneuf | |||||||
Lac Long Fougère à me plaire | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Tete a Papineau | ★★★ Classica | |||||
5.8 | ★ Yoyo | 20m | ★ Buona | ||||
Gio 31 Ago 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres Mont de l'ours | |||||||
5.7 | ★★★ La Directe de l'ours - con Noah Boudreau-Richard | 140m | ★ Buona | ||||
only 2nd pitch, 8+ variation
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5.8 Facile |
★★ Pinocchio P1
- con
Noah Boudreau-Richard
1
5.8
| 140m | ★ Buona | ||||
Gio 31 Ago 2023 - Quebec City | |||||||
Champlain | |||||||
5.6 | ★ Chemine 2 - con Olivier laroche | 9m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
5.8 | ★ Miroir - con Olivier laroche | 9m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
5.7 | ★★ Le tombeau - con Olivier laroche | 11m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
5.11a | ★★ Evolution - con Olivier laroche | ★★ Molto buona | |||||
5.10c | ★★ Acide lactique - con Olivier laroche | ★★ Molto buona | |||||
Gio 31 Ago 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres Mont de l'ours | |||||||
5.8 |
★★★ La Directe de l'ours
- con
Kexin Huang
| 110m | ★★★ Classica | ||||
P1 of "Pinnochio" into the direct P2 of the "Directe de l'Ours".
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Gio 31 Ago 2023 - Quebec City | |||||||
Champlain | |||||||
5.7 | ★ Chemine 3 | 9m | Media | ||||
5.12a | Peau de vache et langue de vipère | Media | |||||
5.9 | Mope humide | ★ Buona | |||||
Mar 29 Ago 2023 - Quebec City | |||||||
Mont Wright Secteur de la petite paroi | |||||||
V0 - 1 ~V1 | ★★ Tabula rasa | ★★ Molto buona | |||||
Possible d'installer un relais par le haut via des encrages à même le rocher.
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Lun 28 Ago 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres Mont du Gros Bras | |||||||
5.8 Dura | ★ Velerie Reverie | 40m | ★ Buona | ||||
Dom 27 Ago 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme Wet Dreams | |||||||
5.7 G | Terrasse a Lino | 15m | |||||
Belle fissure à doigts cassée avec quelques movements layback au début. Beaucoup de belles prises à l'extérieur de la craque aussi.
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5.4 G | ★ La petite ecole | 15m | ★ Buona | ||||
Good route to learn how to place pro. My boyfriend first mock-lead it and then lead it. Start was a tad tricky because eveything was wet.
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Dom 27 Ago 2023 - Portneuf | |||||||
Lac Long La Cour | |||||||
5.9 Dura | ★★ Courte paille | 30m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
Départ engageant, beaucoup plus facile par la suite. Attention, lorsque mon partenaire la grimpait, une roche de bonne dimension m'est tombée sur la tête. D'où l'importance de porter un casque! Le premier ancrage n'a que deux bolts, pas de chaîne.
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Dom 27 Ago 2023 - Portneuf | |||||||
Lac Long l'Arène | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Epilogue | 26m | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Belle voie trad pour débutants. Se protège très bien là où il n'y a pas de bolts, permet aux néo-tradeurs de se mettre en confiance!
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Dom 27 Ago 2023 - Portneuf | |||||||
Lac Long Mur des gauchistes | |||||||
5.11a | ★★ St Jean Batis' | ★★★ Mega Classica | |||||
Magnifique! Ne vous méprenez pas, le crux n'est pas le toit, mais plutôt un passage de dalle plus haut. Aux deux pockets avec cristaux, on peut passer à droite ou à gauche de la bolt. À gauche semble plus facile, mais il faut alors faire une traverse pour rejoindre la prochaine bolt. À droite est légèrement plus difficile, mais ça facilite grandement la progression par la suite. Je recommande de passer à droite.
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Ven 25 Ago 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres Mont Eudore-Fortin Les Dalles | |||||||
5.6 | Les jumelles - con Léa | 70m | |||||
Climb in one pitch if you have a 70m. Watch out how you protect the end of the second pitch to not risk dislodging a death bloc
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Lun 21 Ago 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Cap Blanc | |||||||
5.12a/b | Jambe droite - con Léa | ||||||
Gave it two tries from the ground. New highpoint: the jug before the last bolt.
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5.10- | ★ Unknown - con Léa | ★ Buona | |||||
This is probable the only moderate that is well bolted for someone climbing at that grade. Nice technical moves.
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Dom 20 Ago 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Palissades de Charlevoix Les Arches | |||||||
5.9 |
★★ Les Arches faciles P1
- con
Gabriel Harvey
1
arrampicata in lead da
Gabriel Harvey
| ★★ Molto buona | |||||
Sab 19 Ago 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Cap Blanc | |||||||
5.10b | Agoraphobie Direct - con Yasmina | 20m | |||||
Took a fall in the opening moves. Came back down and sent it. There is a good runout in a tricky section up higher. I added an extended draw for the second leader.
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5.9 | ★ 5.95 - con Yasmina | ||||||
5.12a/b | Jambe droite - con Yasmina | ||||||
Start of the line was wet so we aided to the first overlap and worked the moves ground up to the chains. Well protected. A flake marked with an X might come out soon-ish but held my weight fine.
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Sab 19 Ago 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Palissades de Charlevoix L’Arête | |||||||
5.8 |
★★ L'Arrête
- con
Gabriel Harvey
1
5.6
arrampicata in lead da
Gabriel Harvey
3
5.8
arrampicata in lead da
Gabriel Harvey
| ★ Buona | |||||
Le rappel du dernier pitch doit se faire depuis l'arbre avec l'anneau de rappel. Notre corde de 70m etait trop courte pour rappel depuis le 1er relais.
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Sab 19 Ago 2023 - Portneuf | |||||||
Lac Long La Plage | |||||||
5.9 ~5.10a | ★★ Bikini | 25m, 10 | ★ Buona | ||||
5.10b | ★★★ Solaris | 25m, 10 | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Sab 19 Ago 2023 - Portneuf | |||||||
Lac Long Fougère à me plaire | |||||||
5.8 | ★ Yoyo | 20m | ★ Buona | ||||
Gio 17 Ago 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme Wet Dreams | |||||||
5.9 | ★★★ Wet Dreams - con Martin | 110m | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
Gio 17 Ago 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme Tache blanche | |||||||
5.6 G | ★★★ La Granuleuse - con Martin | 170m, 1 | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Sab 12 Ago 2023 - Portneuf | |||||||
Lac Long l'Antre du Dragon | |||||||
5.10a Facile | ★★★ Incandescence | ★★★ Classica | |||||
Sab 12 Ago 2023 - Portneuf | |||||||
Lac Long Fougère à me plaire | |||||||
5.8 | ★★★ Fougere a me plaire | 25m | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Sab 12 Ago 2023 - Portneuf | |||||||
Lac Long l'Arène | |||||||
5.8 ~5.9 | ★ Robine | 25m | ★ Buona | ||||
Took 2 falls made worse because it was wet and extremely dirty. Feels like the grade should be 5.9+ even when dry.
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