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Paredón de Josué Tutte Arrampicata sportiva 17 vie in parete

  • Contesto grado: FR
  • Foto: 1
  • Ascensioni: 44
  • Aka: Vega de Crespo
17
FR
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Stagionalità

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Descrizione

This is the most developed sector on the Vega de Pelón side of Mogote del Valle. It is well shaded from late morning on and offers excellent climbing on pockets, tufas and some sharp rock.

Avvicinamento

Follow the approach for Cueva Cabeza de la Vaca and pass the tunnel (it is short and can be done without light). Hike down the obvious trail on the other side. Once you reach the field, look for a trail that leads up left to the obvious cliff.

Etica ereditato da Cuba

Climbing gear is extremely hard to impossible to get in Cuba. Please bring gear you can spare, bolts, ropes, anything of good quality and leave it with the Cuban climbing community.

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Guide

Vie

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Grado Via
1
6a ★★★ Calentando Baterias Sportiva 25m, 7

Starts just right of the big tree that follows the cliff. Excellent climbing on big holds to an anchor on the right flake.

2
6c ★★ Chan Chan de Ilusiones Sportiva 25m

Shares frist 2 bolts with Tarentola but then climbs staright up on the face.

3
6a+ ★★ Tarentola Sportiva 28m, 8

Follow the crack to the right and then climb straight up. Shares first 2 bolts with Chan Chan de Ilusiones.

4
7b+ ★★★ Romeo y Regleta Sportiva 28m
5
6b+ Guajiro Natural Sportiva 25m
6
6c ★★ Por la Raja de Tu Falda Sportiva 25m, 7
7
6b Economizando Baterias Sportiva 25m
8
6b+ Reversible Sportiva 20m

Goes up just left of the big tufa.

9
6b ★★★ Mujer, Peligro y Placer Sportiva 25m, 9

Start on the boulder and climb up just right of the big tufa. Pass left of the roof and follow rhe crack to the face and anchor.

10
8a Mancha en Mi Expediente Sportiva 30m

Start right of the tufa and climb through the obvious low roof.

FA: Josué Millo & Yuniesky Gonzales, 2002

11
7b Pies de Homo Hábilis Sportiva 30m, 12
12
7a Dame Luz San Valentín Sportiva 30m, 11
13
6c ★★★ Melodía Celestial Sportiva 30m

Start on the boulder and climb the face to reach the big flake. Layback up on poor feet to reach the tufa and follow the slab to a final overhanging section. The last 2 bolts climb very sharp rock.

14
7a+ Terapia de Miedo Sportiva 30m, 12

This route climbs right of the big flake on the flat arete.

15
7a Cuando los Ángeles lloran Sportiva 30m, 12
16
6b Rebentadera Sportiva 30m, 11
17
6b Sorpresa Sportiva 60m, 2
1 6b 30m
2 6a+ 30m

This is an isolated route about 50m further right and up on the same cliff. Search the wide crack.

FA: Josué Millo & Raikel Reyes, 2002

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6a ★★★ Calentando Baterias

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Mar 2 Mag
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