Foto
Aiuto

Cueva Cabeza de la Vaca

  • Contesto grado: FR
  • Foto: 6
  • Ascensioni: 88
  • Aka: The Cow’s Head Cave

Stagionalità

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F
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Descrizione

This is the prominent cliff seen right above and behind Raúl’s Farm and one of the most popular sectors in the area. Left and right of the cave are a few moderate routes but the majority is steep tufa climbs with some of the hardest climbing in Viñales.

Avvicinamento

Follow the approach for the northern sectors. Pass Raúl’s Farm and follow the trail left of the small lake to the obvious cave. Hike up the concrete stairs to reach the cave and tunnel.

Etica ereditato da Cuba

Climbing gear is extremely hard to impossible to get in Cuba. Please bring gear you can spare, bolts, ropes, anything of good quality and leave it with the Cuban climbing community.

Tags

Vie

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Grado Via

These routes are on the far left buttress in the cave. All routes listed left to right!

FA: Josué Millo, 2004

FA: Josué Millo, 2004

FA: Alberto Leiva, 2007

These routes are in the tall alcove on the far left of the cave.

FA: Alberto Leiva, 2007

FA: Yarobys García & Maikel Novo, 2007

FA: Josué Millo, Yarobys García & Alberto Leiva, 2006

FA: Josué Millo, Yarobys García & Alberto Leiva, 2006

Start left of "The Wasp Factory" and finish left of the huge tufa.

FA: Josué Millo, Yarobys García & Alberto Leiva, 2006

Start left of the block and follow the tufa line up to an anchor just right of the big stalactite. Great steep climbing on mostly good holds and a cool move over to the final tufa, one of the best lines in Viñales.

This is The Wasp Factory with its extension.

FA: Neil Gresham, 2002

FA: Tim Emmett, 2002

This is Esplendidos with its extension.

FA: Tim Emmett, 2002

1 6c+
2 6c+

The left variant for the second pitch.

These routes are loacted in the right alcove (the first left of the tunnel entrance) and before you reach the left (tall) alcove. Routes are listed left to right. The rightmost routes start just right of the tree.

FA: Josué Millo, Alberto Leivas & Reiniel Sosa, 2002

FA: Aníbal Fernández, 2002

1 6c+
2 7c

FA: Josué Millo, 2002

Starts left of the tunnel entrance and right of the next alcove, left of the tree. Big tufas and stalactites lead the way to the top ledge. Shares anchor with Chao Pescao. Great warm-up.

(While it may not sound like a lot of bolts, they are where you need them and the falls are generally pretty clean. So a reasonable climb even if this is the opposite of a warm-up.)

Starts just right of the tree and shares the anchor with RM. Easy climbing to a crux to exit on the slab.

FA: Josué Millo, 2005

1 6b+ 25m
2 3+ 17m
3 7a+ 20m

This route climbs the left edge of the tunnel entrance.

  • Pitch 1: Stay left after bolt 2 and pass right behind the tree on the ledge to an anchor left behind the big stalactite.
  • Pitch 2: Move right behind the stalactite on the ledge to another anchor.
  • Pitch 3: Trends slightly left from the anchor.

Lower down from the top to the stairs. Easier to clean pitch 1 in top rope.

FA: Vitalio Echazábal, Armando Menocal & David Ryan, 2000

This is an alternative 2nd pitch for Puro Cubano and goes up straight from the anchor of pitch 1.

FA: Abel Pérez & Loisbel Silvelio

Same start as Puro Cubano but head right after bolt 2.

FA: Josué Millo, 2002

This is a second pitch of Cubanitos en la Red leaving the anchor towards the left.

FA: Los Titos

This is a second pitch of Cubanitos en la Red leaving the anchor towards the right.

These routes are located at the tunnel entrance on the left side. They are listed left to right (going into the tunnel)!

FA: Josué Millo & Reiniel Sosa, 2005

Start on top of the concrete cube in the tunnel.

FA: Ned Harris & Alberto Leivas, 2002

FA: Josué Millo & Alberto Leivas, 2005

FA: Josué Millo & Alberto Leivas, 2005

FA: Josué Millo & Alberto Leivas, 2005

FA: Josué Millo & Alberto Leivas, 2005

FA: Josué Millo, 2005

These routes are located on the right side of the tunnel entrance. They are sorted left (inside the tunnel) to right (outside the tunnel).

FA: Josué Millo, 2005

FA: Josué Millo & Raiquel Reyes, 2005

FA: Josué Millo & Raiquel Reyes, 2005

FA: Josué Millo & Fransua Bosmenier, 2005

FA: Josué Millo & Fransua Bosmenier, 2005

The classical test piece of Viñales. Taking the Bull by the Horn was a top rope problem following the same line.

FA: David Brasco & Rosa Catalá, 2001

FA: Josué Millo & Reiniel Sosa, 2005

On the far right side of the tunnel entrance behind the big block.

FA: Martin Molin & Ariel Pasqualeitti

These routes are located right of the stairs as you walk up to the cave. There is a concrete platform and a short trail to the right.

A short route just left of "La Cuchilita" -- the left-most route starting of the landing -- with an anchor just below the ledge and tree.

1 4+
2 6a
  1. (4+, 26m) Start off the platform up and rightward, then follow the groove/dihedral angling up and left, avoiding the steep section, then back right to an anchor. This pitch is popular as a beginner route.

  2. (6a, 25m). Climb the arete to the right, then move back left.

This was initially a trad route but has been bolted.

Start on the gray, strongly featured rock. Climbs nice and homogenously up on sharp rock with good holds. Popular top-rope route - bolts are spaced a bit far as an initiation route for lead.

Start right of the broken tufa on the grey slab and go up straight. Anchor is on top left of tree. Shares first bolt with Guajiras. Climbs easy on mostly sharp rock to a crux high up.

FA: Scott Cole & Armando Menocal, 2000

Shares the first bolt with Guajiros but then branches out right on the orange wall.

FA: David Brasco, 2001

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