Vie in Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur

Initially graded 9c but downgraded by Stefano Ghisolfi in agreement with Alex Megos in Aug-2021.

An 8c section (the "approach walk") is followed by an almost blank 50° overhanging sequence that gave the route its name ("Adam's rage" because Adam Ondra came to try but could not decipher the beta).

The boulder problem is then followed by an easier 8b .

It took 5 years, on and off, for Seb to free the route. This first ascent comes just a few months after Seb repeated Move (Flatanger), another 9b/+. Checkout the video of his journey to climb this route.

An exit variation of 'Le poisson pilote'. More infos @ www.kletterblock.de

An exit variation of 'Le poisson pilote'.

Connexion entre "Bronx" et "sachidananda".50 mouvements.

start of "brooklyn" end of "le bronx".

8A+ bloc puis 7C+ bloc puis 8b+.Tres beau et quasiment tout naturel.

Rési avec une grosse section bloc au milieu. Gros dévers.

Direct start to "Destruction" right in the cave. More at kletterblock.de

Début dans Sachidananda et sortie dans Bronx

https://kletterblock.de/de_DE/2020/09/alexander-megos-holt-sich-die-2-begehung-von-letrange-ivresse-des-lenteurs-9a/

A 60m "king line" on an overhanging prow above 150m of air. Seb bolted the route in 2009, in a bottom up effort that took him three days to complete. Over the following years, Seb regularly came back to try the route but it soon became obvious that its difficulty was out of reach. He finally sent his project in 2008, grading it 9a+ (solid). History video

Stamina fingery testpiece.

Has yet to be freed. In 2011, Rémy Bergasse did "DTN", a variant with a different start which is itself 9a. Start a the right of "Symbiose" then goes left to link with the last.

Magnifique petite proue naturelle.

Left start into 'Crackinette'.

A route of historic importance bolted by French local Quentin Chastagnier, FAed by Alex Megos and flashed by Adam Ondra, making it the first of the grade to be flashed (see Reel Rock 13).

According to Adam Ondra, the route doesn't have any real crux, just around 25-30 moves of very sustained hard and fingery climbing in a big overhang where the hardest section comes just before linking the direct start into the original Crackinette, and then you have to deal with the awkward 8b+ crack itself.

This route would be the 3rd 9b in France if you count Akira and C.R.S.

Initially graded 9b, Pierre Le Cerf repeated the route in 2022 and suggested a downgrade to 9a+.

Left exit of "poisson pilote"

Repeated by Loïc Zehani (10/04/2018).

Still project - Open - 9a+ ?

In 1989, Jean-Christophe Lafaille bolted the whole pitch and named it Biographie. In 1996, Arnaud Petit added an anchor in the middle of the route, and did the first ascent of the first half in that year. Around 2007 the anchor chains marking the end of the route which Arnaud Petit climbed were removed from the wall. In July 2001 Sharma became the first person to climb the full route and gave it the name "Realization", following the American way. Since then, Sharma has said that "most of the time I actually call the route Biographie".

Ascent History:

• 2001, July, 19, Chris Sharma - Beta video
• 2004, May, 24, Sylvain Millet
• 2004, July, 29, Patxi Usobiaga
• 2007, July, 30, Dave Graham
• 2007, Sep, 02, Ethan Pringle
• 2008, July, 27, Ramón Julián Puigblanque
• 2010, Aug, 15, Enzo Oddo
• 2014, June, 01, Jonathan Siegrist
• 2014, July, 11, Alex Megos
• 2014, July, 22, Adam Ondra
• 2014, Aug, 07, Sachi Amma
• 2015, June, 22, Stefano Ghisolfi
• 2016, May, 25, Jon Cardwell
• 2016, Aug, 05, Sean Bailey
• 2017, Sep, 24, Margo Hayes
• 2018, July, Piotr Schab
• 2018, Sep, Stefano Carnati
• 2019, July, Jorge Díaz-Rullo
• 2020, Sébastien Bouin
• 2023, Apr, Tanguy Merard
• 2023, May, Matty Hong

This route is made of two parts:

• the first part is a resistant and physical 8c+, followed by a good rest.
• the second part is an 8c taking place in the steepest part of the work that will drain your stamina...

Seb has said that this was harder than "Thor's Hammer" which is why he is suggesting 9a+.

Gérome started working the direct version in 2004 after sending the classic right finish (8c+). He came back to work it in 2009 and again in 2010 when conditions were better. That year, it took him six days to free it.

Starts with a few technical moves and finishes on a sketchy slab.

Originally suggested as a 9a+ also graded with 9a (https://kletterblock.de/en_GB/2020/10/video-anatole-bosio-mit-dritter-begehung-von-aubade-direct-9a/)

Originaly graded 8c+. Since "Rémy Bergasse" FA, a hold broke in the crux now 9a/a+.

Doing all the hard part of "L'Intégral Du Play Boy" (8c+), but when L'Intégral crosses to the right, the route continues straight.

Then there is a big dyno in the roof and a short enduring section for going to a very big rest. After this big rest, there is still a very demanding, short and bouldery 8b/+ with very big moves which are a little bit morphological (hard if you are less than 1,75 M).

This route is long, magnificient, amazing, and also a mega - line.

Video of Lucien Martinez :

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_r7W5DT2dlg

Majeur et bien dévers.

Direct start of Rêve de Poutre.

Adam Ondra attempted to on-sight this route but broke a key hold in the crux section. He believes the route is still possible.Alex Megos climbs the route in 2021 and graded the Route with 9a/+

Variant of En verve et contre tous. Shares the first bolt and the anchor. Downgraded by Alex Megos

#sd Combination of 'traverse de surprise' with 'Agent de la paix Ghesquiers'

Majeur. Connexion "jeunet vrillé" /"casi mono". 60 mouvements. Rocher dément.

Same start as "Le Voyage" but then left. Not yet graded but likely very hard.

Sébastien Bouin on : https://youtu.be/6R1_la0hNW0

According to Charlotte Durif, the route can be split in 3 sections. The lower third that consists of half of "Pue le fion" 8b+ with two or three small key movements a little morpho; the middle third with three very technical key moves and a very tough section; and a third section with three serious key movements of "Pull Over" 8c+.

Third female 9a by Charlotte Durif (18 août 2011).

Une section bloc tres à doigts en tres léger dévers puis une dalle bien technique. Rocher magnifique.

An old François Legrand 8c+ . Some holds broke at the beginning of the route . Now it's 9a.

Nice crimpy climb

Same start as "Symbiose", goes straight up and end at "Apothéose" anchor.

Départ UFO sortie XXL.

Pitch 2 of La Baume

Super ligne. Assez bloc au milieu et bien à doigts à la fin.

Start by "Perplexe" (8b+), and continue on "Le Complexe Adipeux Intégral" (8c+) where there is a 7C boulder problem.

François Legrand bolted Perplexe and tried to send Sans Complexe in 2007, but he failed.

Erwan Legrand, his son, done the First Ascent in January 2023 and rated it 8c+/9a.

Ros devers qui démarre par une section bloc en plafond sur de très mauvaises réglettes. Classe et original.

Bloc puis rési. Classe. Grotte à droite de la face nord.

Right of “Mélodie pour un ami ardéchois".

Bouldery start, followed by some easier moves and a hard boulder problem that leads to the final tufa which marks the end of the hostilities.

💎💎💎💎💎

Ancien 8b "purifié" de ses prises taillées pour une jolie voie quasiment toute naturelle à présent. La plus jolie voie en 9 d'Orgon. 2 sections blocs sur petites prises en bon dévers.

Belle ligne très rési en bon dévers.

L1 irreverence 8c puis après un repos total on fait environ 25 mouvements bien puissants

Départ dans l'irreverence et sortie à gauche. Resi puis bloc.

Variante de "La Proue Débridée".

Links "Une Arquée pour un criquet" and "La Croix de To Loose".