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Ascensioni in Breitenberg Südwand che possiede Informazioni sui passaggi

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Tutti 39 ascensioni visualizzati.

Grado Via Stile equipaggiamento Qualità Arrampicatore
Ven 26 Apr 2024 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Breitenberg Südwand
4 Löwe - con tichacek, Adyctu Sportiva 15m, 3 Molto buona
Dragallur
Extremely chill route.

 
6- Siebenschläfer - con tichacek, Adyctu Sportiva 15m, 3 Buona
Dragallur
Not a bad route, but there are better in the crag.

 
6+ Rechter Kantenweg - con tichacek, Adyctu Sportiva 11m, 3 Molto buona
Dragallur
Similar style to Wassermann but harder.

 
6 Wassermann - con tichacek, Adyctu Sportiva 11m, 3 Molto buona
Dragallur
You have to climb this one.

 
7 Scharfes Luder - con tichacek, Adyctu Sportiva 10m, 2 Buona
Dragallur
Almost fell, the other 7 is better. (guide book says 7- but I don't agree)

 
7 Je t'aime - con tichacek, Adyctu Sportiva 10m, 2 Molto buona
Dragallur
Epic overhang, enough protection.

 
6+ Schlingenweg - con tichacek, Adyctu Sportiva 10m, 2 Media
Dragallur
It is quite simple to get quickly over the overhang.

 
4+ Dura April-Flocke - con manh Sportiva 11m, 2 Buona
tichacek
Felt quite hard with super polished holds

 
3+ Stier - con manh Sportiva 12m, 4 Classica
tichacek
The holds on this one are super nice

 
4+ Barbarelli-Weg - con manh Sportiva 16m, 4 Classica
tichacek
Very enjoyable and well protected route

 
6 Dura Wassermann - con Adyctu, Dragallur, manh Sportiva 11m, 3 Molto buona
tichacek
Quite a nice route with a hard first half, the move to the jug was pretty cool

 
5+ Jungfrau - con manh Sportiva 10m, 3 Molto buona
tichacek
Very nice route with good holds

 
6- Nordlicht - con manh Trad mista 10m, 1 Buona
tichacek
I kinda liked this route even though others didn't the anchor is hard to see

 
Gio 30 Giu 2022 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Breitenberg Südwand
7 Scharfes Luder - con Martin Sportiva 10m, 2
Martin Steuer
Definitely harder then je t'aime. you need to tolarate relatively bad holds.

 
7 Je t'aime - con Martin Sportiva 10m, 2 Molto buona
Martin Steuer
crux after second bolt, some good but polished pockets, keep going

 
Mar 19 Apr 2022 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Breitenberg Südwand
4 Krebs - con E, L Sportiva 12m, 3 Molto buona
Georg Kretzschmar
Kam mir schwerer vor, als der Barbarelli-Weg. Etwas weitere Hakenabstände. Evtl. wären ein, zwei Keile sinnvoll gewesen. Man steht aber immer sicher.

 
4+ Barbarelli-Weg - con E, L Sportiva 16m, 4 Classica
Georg Kretzschmar
Schöne, direkte Route. Top gesichert. Hervorragend geeignet, um sich wieder ans Klettern in Franken zu gewöhnen.

 
Dom 2 Gen 2022 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Breitenberg Südwand
6+ Rechter Kantenweg - con Bovist Sportiva 11m, 3
monolith
Got only to the first bolt. Reachy moves on sharp holds wasn't my thing with cold fingers today. Would like to try on warmer days again though, because it looks like a really nice, bouldery passage over the bulge up to the sling.

 
Ven 31 Dic 2021 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Breitenberg Südwand
6- Nordlicht - con Bovist Trad mista 10m, 1
Christoph Rauch
No idea if I climbed it as intended, but the only sensible line to me was the dihedral around the corner, which climbs nicely, but is probably rather 4+. The 6- part is then the move to the anchor.

 
4+ April-Flocke Sportiva 11m, 2
Christoph Rauch
Interesting for the grade, quite juggy.

 
5+ Jungfrau - con Bovist Sportiva 10m, 3 Buona
Christoph Rauch
Nice Frankenjura pockets. The bolts are shabby, though.

 
5 Neigsabbt - con Bovist Sportiva 10m, 3
Christoph Rauch
Short slab, a bit forced.

 
4+ April-Flocke - con Christoph Rauch Sportiva 11m, 2 Media
Bovist
Not easy for #warmup

 
5+ Jungfrau - con Christoph Rauch Sportiva 10m, 3 Molto buona
Bovist
Schöne löchrige Wandkletterei.

 
Mer 22 Dic 2021 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Breitenberg Südwand
4 Waage Trad 12m
Christoph Rauch
Looks steep for the grade, but one slightly powerful move takes you to the jugs. The rock structures are a bit crispy, so a little care is necessary.

 
4 Löwe Sportiva 15m, 3
Christoph Rauch
Nice crack line, easier except for a short passage at the first bolt.

 
5 O sole mio - con monolith Trad 12m
Christoph Rauch
Short pocketed wall, ever so slightly overhanging. Used a purple and a small silver Dragon cam in pockets for protection.

 
4+ Barbarelli-Weg - con Christoph Rauch Sportiva 16m, 4 Molto buona
monolith
With the strong midday winter sun, the (for the grade) interesting middle part and the relaxing top part, it felt like the nicest route on the wall and got quite warm for the first time this day. Best protected of all the routes.

 
4 Löwe - con Christoph Rauch Sportiva 15m, 3
monolith
First route on a cold winter morning. Has a cruxy part on the first bolt. The route wasn't bad, but I don't know how it got rated with 2 stars. Liked the "Barbarelli-Weg" on the right much better for example. Also wouldn't say that the tag #beginners is more suitable for this route than any other on the wall with grades 3 and 4 (at least from what I can say, with what I climbed). Maybe my cold stiff fingers made the whole experience worse than the route actually deserves.

 
4 Krebs - con Christoph Rauch Sportiva 12m, 3 Buona
monolith
Overall a really nice crack line, but I couldn't find a good clipping position for the second bolt on the big flake. I jammed my cold and partly numb right hand in the crack with medium good feelings about it and had my feet weirdly positioned. I don't know what went wrong but this part on the bolt felt quite hard for 4. grade, but maybe I just still suck at cracks.

 
Gio 28 Ott 2021 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Breitenberg Südwand
7+ 7 Scharfes Luder Sportiva 10m, 2
Brad Hill
Really hard for the grade

 
6+ Geil und brüchig Sportiva 13m, 5 Molto buona
Brad Hill
Pumpy! Big loose chunk at the start.

 
Sab 10 Ago 2019 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Breitenberg Südwand
7 Je t'aime Sportiva 10m, 2 Molto buona
Douglas Talbot
#2go Tough little overhang with some sharp holds

 
Sab 13 Mag 2017 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Breitenberg Südwand
7 Scharfes Luder - con Simon Sportiva 10m, 2 Buona
Daniel
Short boulder though the overhang, good holds, nothing exciting.

 
6+ Rechter Kantenweg - con Simon Sportiva 11m, 3 Media
Daniel
Very polished. In comparison, Wassermann is more worthwhile.

 
6+ Geil und brüchig - con Simon Sportiva 13m, 5 Molto buona
Daniel
Enjoyable traverse on solid jugs. Not brüchig at all.

 
Sab 8 Ott 2016 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Breitenberg Südwand
6+ Geil und brüchig - con Bovist Sportiva 13m, 5 Molto buona
Christoph Rauch
Loose and hollow in the first part, but then a glorious traverse on perfect holds in the upper part.

 
4+ Barbarelli-Weg - con Bovist Sportiva 16m, 4 Buona
Christoph Rauch
Very nice for the grade.

 
Ven 17 Ago 2012 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Breitenberg Südwand
6+ Geil und brüchig Sportiva 13m, 5 Molto buona
Johannes
Great, pocketed endurance climb.

 

Tutti 39 ascensioni visualizzati.

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