Aiuto

Napoleon

25

Stagionalità

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Sommario

High, two-summited tower with amazing climbs in many grades.

Descrizione

The big "Napoleon" tower consists of two summits, the "Napoleonsblock" and the amazingly thin "Napoleonswand", separated by a plateau. Both summits are reachable via a few exquisite climbs in various grades; the "Block", for example, via the brilliant classic "Westriss", the fantastic "Freundschaftsweg" and the bold "Membrane"; the summit of the "Wand" is often reached by climbing up the "Plateau Normalweg" and choosing one of "Nordkante", "Ostwand" and "Westwand" from there, but there are also good lines from the ground, like the stunning "Südkante" and the bold "Direkte Ostwand".

Limitazioni per l'accesso ereditato da Frankenjura Nord

Seasonal closures for protected birds. See here: Closed crags

Additional information: IG Klettern closure list

Zoning concept

  • Zone 1: NO climbing
  • Zone 2: climbing on existing routes
  • Zone 3: new routes possible

Please respect signs and zoning.

Avvicinamento

In Gößweinstein, drive into "An der Martinswand" (diagonally opposite the petrol station); there is a parking lot for hikers at the end. From there, follow the hiking path north to reach the crag after a few meters.

Etica ereditato da Frankenjura Nord

  • The limestone is soft – please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
  • Don't toprope directly through bolts – use your own material.
  • Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
  • Don't leave toilet paper.
  • Pick up rubbish.
  • No unnecessary noise.
  • No camp fire and bivvy.
  • Park considerately (tractor should be able to pass also at the weekend).
  • Smoking in the forests is forbidden from March 1 until October 31 by law.
  • No publishing of boulder blocks.

Tags

Vie

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Grado Via

FFA: Toni Erdenkäufer & Wolfgang Güllich †, 1983

FFA: Kurt Albert †, 1979

FFA: Reiner Pickl, 1984

Starts on the plateau.

Starts on the plateau.

FFA: Peter Burger, 1987

FFA: Stephan Haase

FFA: Martin Grulich, 1987

FA: Hans Bieringer, 1929

FA: Hans Bieringer & Willi Einhellinger, 1928

FFA: Kurt Albert †, 1977

FFA: Klaus Bauernschmitt, 1987

Starts on the plateau.

The routes start on the plateau.

FFA: Alexander Neubauer, 2013

FFA: Alexander Neubauer, 2013

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Selected Guidebooks more Nascondi

Autore/i: Ulrich & Harald Röker

Data: 2023

ISBN: 9783938680490

Volume 1 of the Climbing Guidebook Franken describes 6450 routes on 479 crags - the complete work, including Volume 2, offers information about more than 13,500 routes.

Autore/i: Ulrich & Harald Röker

Data: 2020

Volume 2 of the Climbing Guidebook Franken describes 6790 routes on 387 crags - the complete work, including Volume 1, offers information about more than 13,500 routes.

Autore/i: Sebastian Schwertner

Data: 2021

Alloggi in zona more Nascondi

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