Ascensioni in Schimmelecke

Fell on the last move to the anker

The second bolt is placed badly (carabiner is lying on a little nose), but it's not so hard to the third bolt. The runout after the third bolt draws you to the protruding block on the arête, where you can also clip a bolt of the neighbouring "Windbeutel", but it could be that it's easier the left way around. Today, a few pockets were dripping wet, which didn't exactly make it easier. Great line!

The overhang after the initial wall turns out to be quite manageable once you've found the key hold. Climbing to the next bolt is challenging and a little bold, nevertheless. The crux, however, comes up high, when the terrain gets steeper while the holds get smaller … Didn't immediately find a good sequence and fell off. I guess it's easily 8+, though.

Looks just like a variant from below, but turns out to be a separate line, quite worthwhile and with the highest density of bolts of all routes on the wall (once you've reached the actual climb). #warmup

This time without backpack and with the correct finish (which is brilliant, by the way). Hauled up the backpacks afterwards … quite exhausting, should have set up a better hauling system. ;-) #lastrouteoftheday

Perfect warmup.

Got all the way to the top and then didn't see where to go. It's not straight up the bolts (there is nothing) but a little to the left. The last two (closely spaced) bolts made me think I should stay in the line, but that's nonsense. No idea why that last bolt is even there...

Even on the second go, this seems hard for the grade. 3rd to 4th bolt is really far, and I'm not sure whether you're supposed to approach it from the left (short people will struggle here) or to mount the chossy block on the right. The actual crux is well protected.

After this experience in the second route here, I kind of dreaded trying the 8 to the right, so I stuck with easier ones for today.

Great route, best I did here. Curiously, I found it to be the easiest of the 7-ish ones here.

Was already a bit exhausted here, but the main problem was that I didn't notice that you need to aim for the little roof even though the bolts further to the right. From below the roof, traverse to the right. Still felt weird, but seems to be the way. I took a nice fall at least.

Nicer than it looks from the bottom! Surprisingly good protection, too.

Classic line through the big dihedral, nice #warmup.

Climbed it with my backpack to avoid having to walk back up. Almost didn't make it through the steep lower part! I didn't realise I had to go up straight in the final wall, so I apparently did the finish of "Diagonalwand" instead. I need to climb this again, the real finish seems to be especially rewarding.

Great exposure, slightly overhanging on good holds, with some sharp pockets in the end.

Stiff in the grade and rewarding. Slightly hard to read, especially in the upper part.

Interesting slab passage in the upper part, the rest is easier in great rock.

2nd go