Aiuto

Hallenstein Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Warning

Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.

This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.

Nobody has checked this particlular guide so you cannot rely on it's accuracy like you would a store bought guide.

You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.

You must keep this warning with the guide. For more information refer to our:
Usage policy

Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

vilda_hkvdf Kai R. Franta Kaván Victor Alexander Hölke Peter Colditz Jonas

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Hallenstein

Summary:
G
F
M
A
M
G
L
A
S
O
N
D

Stagionalità

35 routes in Cliff

Tutti Arrampicata trad

Lat / Long: 50.840771, 14.045604

limitazioni per l'accesso

Das Klettern ist in der Sächsischen Schweiz nur nach den "Sächsischen Kletterregeln" gestattet.

Dementsprechend darf nur an genehmigten Felsen geklettert werden. An allen anderen Felsformationen besteht Kletterverbot.

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at DAV Sachsen or current list of climbing bans / aktuelle Sperrungsliste.

ereditato da Sächsische Schweiz

note per la calata

Abseile 25m, Abseilöse am Ausstieg vom "Blockkamin".

etica

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake. For climbability an extra model was developed.. CHECK IT at unclear conditions.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.
ereditato da Sächsische Schweiz
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Blockkamin

In Mitte Südostwand Kamin, oben links Kamin zG.

FA: Walter Stein, C. Stumpf & A. Kunze, 1903

I Trad 23m
2 Neue Südostwand

AF VIIIa

VIIIb Trad mista 3
3 Trance IXc Trad mista 4
4 Südostwand

AF VIIc

VIIIa Trad mista 1
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
5 !Kindergeburtstag

AF VIIIa

FA: Joachim Friedrich, R. Nestler, S. Lipski, R. Graf, J. Knepper, H.-U. Schmidt & G. Schäfer, 1984

VIIIb Trad mista 3
6 !Mörbitzweg Erwähnung

Vom Quergang Wand gerade zG.

VIIc Trad
7 !Mörbitzweg VIIc Trad
8 Unsere Freiheit

AF VIIIc

IXa Trad mista 3
9 !Südwand VIIIb Trad mista 2
10 Südweg VIIc Trad mista 1
11 Südweg Erwähnung

Links vom Einstieg "Südweg" Kante (Rissspur) an Überhang vorbei zum oberen Riss.

VIIc Trad
12 Westweg VIIa Trad mista 35m, 1
13 Westweg Verbindungsvariante VIIa Trad mista 35m, 1
14 Vertikale

AF VIIIa

VIIIb Trad mista 3
15 Vertikale Erwähnung

Oben links Kante zum R "Vertikaler Ausstieg".

VIIIc Trad mista 4
16 Vertikaler Ausstieg

AF VIIIb

VIIIc Trad mista 4
17 Westkamin II Trad
18 Zufallsweg VIIb Trad mista 1
19 Nordwestweg II Trad
20 Nordwestweg Erwähnung

Aus der Einschartung links vom Kamin Wand linkshaltend zum Absatz.

V Trad
21 Nordwestweg Südwesteinstieg IV Trad
22 Rapsblüte

AF VIIb

VIIc Trad mista 3
23 Nordwand VIIIa Trad mista 2
24 Nordwand Erwähnung

Vom 2. R rechts queren und linksgeneigeten Riss Riss zum Absatz.

VIIc Trad mista 2
25 Nordweg III Trad
26 Leistenbruch VIIc Trad mista 2
27 Stumpfe Kante VIIb Trad
28 Ostweg III Trad
29 Ostriss V Trad
30 Augenstecher

AF IXa

IXb Trad mista 1
31 Kopfsprung II 3 Trad
32 Schartensprung V 4 Trad
33 Technik V 4 Trad
34 Vollmond I 3/4 Trad
35 Sonnensprung 3 Trad

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
I Blockkamin Trad 23m
I/3/4 Vollmond Trad
II Nordwestweg Trad
Westkamin Trad
II/3 Kopfsprung Trad
III Nordweg Trad
Ostweg Trad
IV Nordwestweg Südwesteinstieg Trad
V Nordwestweg Erwähnung Trad
Ostriss Trad
V/4 Schartensprung Trad
Technik Trad
VIIa Westweg Trad mista 35m, 1
Westweg Verbindungsvariante Trad mista 35m, 1
VIIb Stumpfe Kante Trad
Zufallsweg Trad mista 1
VIIc !Mörbitzweg Trad
!Mörbitzweg Erwähnung Trad
Leistenbruch Trad mista 2
Nordwand Erwähnung Trad mista 2
Rapsblüte Trad mista 3
Südweg Trad mista 1
Südweg Erwähnung Trad
VIIIa Nordwand Trad mista 2
Südostwand Trad mista 1
VIIIb !Kindergeburtstag Trad mista 3
!Südwand Trad mista 2
Neue Südostwand Trad mista 3
Vertikale Trad mista 3
VIIIc Vertikale Erwähnung Trad mista 4
Vertikaler Ausstieg Trad mista 4
IXa Unsere Freiheit Trad mista 3
IXb Augenstecher Trad mista 1
IXc Trance Trad mista 4
3 Sonnensprung Trad
Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 Português 中文