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Spanghornturm Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Warning

Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.

This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.

Nobody has checked this particlular guide so you cannot rely on it's accuracy like you would a store bought guide.

You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.

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Usage policy

Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Stefanie Krell Georg Kretzschmar Campbell Gome Player Two CJ_DiePumpe Player One

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Spanghornturm 18 routes in Cliff

Summary:
G
F
M
A
M
G
L
A
S
O
N
D

Stagionalità

Tutti Arrampicata trad

Lat / Long: 50.908640, 14.045790

limitazioni per l'accesso

Das Klettern ist in der Sächsischen Schweiz nur nach den "Sächsischen Kletterregeln" gestattet.

Dementsprechend darf nur an genehmigten Felsen geklettert werden. An allen anderen Felsformationen besteht Kletterverbot.

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at DAV Sachsen or current list of climbing bans / aktuelle Sperrungsliste.

ereditato da Sächsische Schweiz

etica

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake. For climbability an extra model was developed.. CHECK IT at unclear conditions.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.
ereditato da Sächsische Schweiz
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Alter Weg

Links in der Nordostseite Wand und Riss zu kleinem Absatz. Ostkante zG.

FA: 1952

II Trad
2 Alter Weg Ostkante IV Trad
3 Alter Weg Bergvariante IV Trad
4 Alter Weg Bergvariante Erwähnung

Vom Übertritt etwas rechts Kante zG.

V Trad
5 Alter Weg Sprungvariante II 3 Trad
6 Südweg

FA: Helmut Großer, 1963

III Trad 10m
7 Hmm lecker!

Rechts in der Talseite den rechten von drei Rissen zu Loch. Linksgebogenen Riss zu Sanduhr. Links Wandstufen und "Südweg" zG.

FA: 10 Gen 2016

V Trad
8 Neuer Talweg V Trad
9 Neuer Talweg Variante VI Trad
10 Disney Land

A.F. VIIIa

VIIIb Trad mista 2
11 Talwand VI Trad
12 Schreck VIIa Trad
13 Westweg V Trad
14 Nordwestweg III Trad
15 Direkter Nordwestweg

FA: 1971

V Trad
16 Auf die Schnelle VIIa Trad mista 1
17 Sprung 2 Trad
18 In Eile IV Trad

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
II Alter Weg Trad
II/3 Alter Weg Sprungvariante Trad
III Nordwestweg Trad
Südweg Trad 10m
IV Alter Weg Bergvariante Trad
Alter Weg Ostkante Trad
In Eile Trad
V Alter Weg Bergvariante Erwähnung Trad
Direkter Nordwestweg Trad
Hmm lecker! Trad
Neuer Talweg Trad
Westweg Trad
VI Neuer Talweg Variante Trad
Talwand Trad
VIIa Auf die Schnelle Trad mista 1
Schreck Trad
VIIIb Disney Land Trad mista 2
2 Sprung Trad
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