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Barriere Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Warning

Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.

This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.

Nobody has checked this particlular guide so you cannot rely on it's accuracy like you would a store bought guide.

You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

DDjensl Georg Kretzschmar Peter Colditz Alma Campbell Gome Kai R. vilda_hkvdf Jürgen Kabus Victor Feldsturm

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Barriere 30 routes in Cliff

Summary:
G
F
M
A
M
G
L
A
S
O
N
D

Stagionalità

Tutti Arrampicata trad

Lat / Long: 50.899581, 14.031988

limitazioni per l'accesso

Das Klettern ist in der Sächsischen Schweiz nur nach den "Sächsischen Kletterregeln" gestattet.

Dementsprechend darf nur an genehmigten Felsen geklettert werden. An allen anderen Felsformationen besteht Kletterverbot.

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at DAV Sachsen or current list of climbing bans / aktuelle Sperrungsliste.

ereditato da Sächsische Schweiz

etica

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake. For climbability an extra model was developed.. CHECK IT at unclear conditions.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.
ereditato da Sächsische Schweiz
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Alter Weg

FA: Heinz Walther & E. Fröde, 1958

III Trad 12m
2 Schräger Riss IV Trad
3 Linker Schräger Riss IV Trad
4 Linker Schräger Riss Erwähnung VIIb Trad
5 Hoffnungsvolles Monster

AF Xb.

FA: 1996

Xc Trad mista 2
6 Spritztour

AF VIIc. Vom Einstieg der Nordhangel überhängende Wand (Sanduhr, R), später geneigte Wand zG.

FA: 1988

VIIIb Trad mista 1
7 Nordhangel

Rechts in der Nordostseite linksgeneigte überhängende Hangelrippe über Zacke und geneigte Wand zG.

FA: 1961

VIIa Trad 20m
8 Sekundenschlaf

FA: Thomas Willenberg, 2007

XIa Trad
9 Schlafende Venus

FA: Thomas Willenberg & M. Schiffke, 1994

Xb Trad mista 1
10 Fünfminutenschlaf

AF XIa. "Kraftakt" 3m hoch und überhängende Wand zG.

FA: 2007

XIb Trad mista 1
11 !Kraftakt VIIIb Trad
12 40

3m links von "Kraftakt" überhängende Wand (Ö) und liegende Wand (Sanduhr) zG.

FA: Falk Stephan, 25 Feb 2020

IXc Trad mista 1
13 Kleines Geschenk

Links in der Nordseite von spitzem Block rechts kurze Wand (Ö) gerade und Gehgelände zG.

FA: Falk Stephan, 25 Feb 2019

VIIIb Trad mista 1
14 Schneise der Väter

2m rechts vom "Nordostweg" unterstützt geneigte Wand rechtshaltend zG.

FA: 1977

III Trad
15 Nordostweg IV Trad 10m
16 Ostkante

With support III.

V Trad
17 Diagonale IV Trad
18 Kein Zuckerlecken

AF VIIc.

VIIIa Trad mista 1
19 Biotop

AF Xc. Rechts der "Pallisadenwacht" überhängende Lochreihe nach rechts zur Südkante (R). Lochreihe oder Kante zG.

FA: 2008

XIa Trad mista 1
20 Biotop Einstiegsvariante Xb Trad mista 1
21 Schöne Baustelle

FA: Elke Schöne & und Gefährten, 2009

IV Trad
22 Palisade IV Trad
23 Palisadenwacht

2,5m rechts der "Vaterführe" über Überhang zum Quergang der "Pallisade".

FA: 2005

VI Trad
24 Vaterführe

With support III. 4m rechts vom "Mittelweg" (unterstützt) Wand rechtshaltend, oben bei kleinem Risseinschnitt zG.

IV Trad 10m
25 Mittelweg

In Mitte Südwestseite Wand leicht rechtshaltend oder direkt zG.

III Trad 10m
26 Südwestweg III Trad 10m
27 Sommerweg IV Trad
28 Sommerweg Direkteinstieg

FA: Alma & Torsten Schierz, 1992

VIIa Trad
29 Knieklemmer

AF VIIc. Einstieg wie "Alter Weg" und rechts Kante (2R) zG.

FA: Christine Fiedler & Joachim Friedrich, 28 Apr 2018

VIIIa Trad mista 2
30 Sandweg

With support III.

VIIb Trad

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
III Alter Weg Trad 12m
Mittelweg Trad 10m
Schneise der Väter Trad
Südwestweg Trad 10m
IV Diagonale Trad
Linker Schräger Riss Trad
Nordostweg Trad 10m
Palisade Trad
Schräger Riss Trad
Schöne Baustelle Trad
Sommerweg Trad
Vaterführe Trad 10m
V Ostkante Trad
VI Palisadenwacht Trad
VIIa Nordhangel Trad 20m
Sommerweg Direkteinstieg Trad
VIIb Linker Schräger Riss Erwähnung Trad
Sandweg Trad
VIIIa Kein Zuckerlecken Trad mista 1
Knieklemmer Trad mista 2
VIIIb !Kraftakt Trad
Kleines Geschenk Trad mista 1
Spritztour Trad mista 1
IXc 40 Trad mista 1
Xb Biotop Einstiegsvariante Trad mista 1
Schlafende Venus Trad mista 1
Xc Hoffnungsvolles Monster Trad mista 2
XIa Biotop Trad mista 1
Sekundenschlaf Trad
XIb Fünfminutenschlaf Trad mista 1
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