Ascensioni in Wildensteine

Hinter meiner Tochter hinterher (7) bis zum Gipfel. Klasse Kinderweg. Der Sichernde muss aber etwas auf die Seilführung achten.

Und auch dass muss ja mal passieren. Schon so oft gemacht und dann doch verrissen. Mit dem Kopf ganz wo anders klappt auch dieser schöne Weg mal nicht :-/

Beautiful and varied climbing with a spicy crack section in the middle. The start is well-protected and there's a good sling at the start of the crack, but then it's quite run out to the second ring, at which I arrived with bloody knees due to the excessive jamming in the broad crack. Beautiful jug wall to the third ring and another crux at the very top to gain the slab.

We actually wanted to climb Direkte Südwand, but the start was still wet from the shower, so I dove into this one. Tried to climb it RP but had to rest in the first ring already because the start was so exhausting and terribly bold, with the first crux with irreversible moves at about 3 meters, then some more hard and tricky climbing to a good placement for two bomber slings which protect the way to the first (!) ring. Clipping that is the second crux, because the huge hold below it turns out to be really bad. Then follows another really hard and reachy section over the slab to the second ring. After reaching that, it gets easier until the third ring, but I had to rest once more there to figure out the friction slab to the top. At this point, the sun had already set and I was starting to feel bad for my second, so I hurried up and gave everything to stand up on the bad smears and throw for the one good hold, with success. Felt much harder than VIIIb.

Delightful climbing on sharper edges to the ring (which is placed a bit strangely there). Best to climb up along the arête to a good rock tunnel, then down again for half a meter to gain the sidepulls around the arête. Bold moves over the edge and a few nice meters of slab to the summit.

Really good friction slab with just the right amount of holds. Hard passages above both rings, and slightly committing to the second (no good placements). Nice mono pocket over the first ring. #barefoot

We wanted to climb "Westkante" but failed to find the correct start. The overhang at the start (first crux of "DuD") is extremely sandy, unfortunately. Because we thought us to be in "Westkante", we didn't go to the second ring of this route here, but instead climbed slightly to the right of it and around the arête to the ledge. The book says there's a bolt on that ledge to belay from, but I didn't find one, so I continued up the slab to the next ledge, which has an abseil station.

Great easy climbing in a fantastic setting, climbing through the roof of the cave. Good rock tunnels abound as soon as you made it past the first crack.

Nice little chimney from the balcony of the cave. ↑↓

My quality rating is for the start in clean condition. Unfortunately, it was utterly full of sand for us. Otherwise nice boulder start to get into the dihedral, easy wall climbing along iron knobs to the ring, a nice traverse under the roof to the ledge and a slightly bold short rib to the next big ledge. From there it's chimneys and easy slabs to the top, still a bit dirty.

Not too easy to find. Went up to the summit in the evening to have a better overview for the next day.

gerader

Immer wieder eine schöne Route Zwei Ringe und eine Sanduhr für die Moral. Kann man schon mal vorsteigen.

Man kriegt genau das, wonach es aussieht. Brüchig und kräftig.

with Rest because my fingers were frozen