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Red Sea Terrace

  • Contesto grado: US

Stagionalità

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Sommario

The plateau above the Battle of the Bulge wall is being defined here as the Red Sea Area.

Descrizione

Red Sea Area extending about 250 odd meters along the north-south axis on the plateau. Extending from the Holy Crack high boulder to the south to the short slabs to the north. Orienting from west to east as the line moves north.

The southern-most route in this section is the Holy Crack and the Finger Crack set of routes, and the current northern most route is the Stack Up. Red Sea is the oldest trad route in this area, and amongst the more prominent boulders visible from the trail, with a tree growing out of the upper section of it to the left.

Along the southern trail leading up to this section has some quality bouldering lines, all along the trail.

Avvicinamento

To reach these high boulders two options:

  • The scrambling trail just below the Rapa Nui boulder, that takes you through the weakness in the Bulge wall. When hiking in from the Stalin’s farm, turn right at the fences, and after 50 odd meters, head up the slope, towards a palm tree located below the Bulge wall, switch north, and angle towards the wall. Below the Rapa Nui boulder, sitting on the Red Sea Plateau, find the weakness, and scramble through the mildly exposed terrain.

  • The second and easer trail. Hike up further on the trail, and then find the trail going up, left of the Slab Crack Boulder. The winding trail gets on the plateau between Holy Crack (to the right or south), and Crack Jack (to the left or north).

  • To access the Red Sea short slabs, located to the north, through the fences from Stalin’s farm and scramble up east. Or past the fences and turn east, and there is a trail that winds through the Westland, past the Breath-in boulder, and behind, and up.

Vie

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Grado Via

Finger and hand crack. An old classic.

Do not waste your energy trying to dislodge the 50- or so-kg chocked stone in the crack. Moves, but has not come out in over three decades. If it does, might be interesting to see if the grade changes.

Facing: West

Rack: #3 cams and below.

Anchor: Horizontal crack takes finger sized cams or tricams.

Natural Anchor: Difficult, but possible with half a length static rope.

Top Rope route to the immediate left of Stack up. Thin crack radiating left and thendisappearing into the slab.

Offwidth crack that takes #3, #4, & #5.

To the left (or north) of the Red Sea, on the plateau a step above.

Facing: West

Rack: Fist and Off-width gear

Anchor: Tree

Natural Anchor: Tree

FKA: Karthik Vijayakumar, 2017

The boulder is about 50-60 feet to the left of Red Sea boulder as you face east.

Anchor for top rope using small to intermediate pieces of gear

Traverse to the left, then from the ledge, through the finger crack in the center.

The blue line traversing right is an easier variation.

FFA: Aravind Selvam, 2019

Grit style climbing between the left Arete & the crack, directly under the tree, Grit stone style sketchy climbing in Bangalore!

One placement in the horizontal crack to the left, use the arete, and then get on the face to sling a horn, and then over the ledge to anchor the tree.

A fall before slinging the horn will be certain ground fall. Belayer needs to be attentive.

Rack: A hand sized cam, a sling, and some large nuts.

Anchor: Tree and cracks.

Natural anchor: Tree

FFA: Aravind Selvam, Aug 2017

Top Rope

Start along the arete, and through the face to the tree

Anchor: Tree and cracks

Face climbing to the right of the Red Sea crack Protection - Slung horn and fist sized pieces

Anchor; Chossy horizontal crack that takes fist sized pieces and below.

The boulder is immediately left (west) of the Red Sea Boulder. The three- placement crack problem. Challenging to protect this crack with crashpads. Also, watch your placements. At least, one known case of gear ripping out on a fall.

Facing: South

Rack: Fist sized cams and below.

Anchor: Possible to build an anchor about 10-12 feet behind, with small pieces

Natural Anchor: None

FFA: Onsighted by Aravind Selvam in early 2017

Off-Width

Further south of Red Sea, on the same terrace, after 50 meters, a bit hidden from direct view, facing south.

The crux is just after the take off. A fist jam protects the transition to the off- width sized crack.

Thereafter, well protected easy climbing.

Facing: South

Rack: #4 cam and below. Doubles of #4 cam would help.

Anchor: Cracks and boulders

Natural Anchor: Two boulders

Additional top-ropeable lines could be set up to the right and left of the off-width.

The jagged face to the left (5.8), face to the right of the crack (mid-5.11), stem- chimney to the right (5.6/7). And one further to the right in the Stem-Chimney (5.5).

Five to ten meters south-east of Crack Jack sits this high boulder, with a thin crack and features on the south face.

Top-roped by Christopher Diaz in 1992, per Dinesh Kaigonhalli.

Per Aravind Selvam, the line in the center is possible to be freed.

Off-Width to Chimney

One of the easiest and a starter off-widths line at Yedumadu. The placements are also from comfortable stances.

Further south from the Crack Jack, after about 50-60 meters. Long crack on the west face.

Starts as a fist crack (for big hands) to hand stacks, and then widens progressively, then to squeeze chimney, and finishes as a full chimney.

Rack: #4, #5, and #6. Bump up the #4 (where needed).

Anchor: Crack that takes fist sized cams and below.

Natural Anchor: Difficult, or long rope anchor to the tree behind

Finger Crack / Seam / Slab

This impressive dome is asking for free ascent! The section up until the end of the seam is very stiff.

10 meters to the right (south) of Holy Crack.

The finger crack/seam radiating for 25-30 feet, and then plain slab for another equal distance.

For Aid of the crack, pieces smaller than the Black Totem or Black and Blue Alien needed. A set of micro-nuts.

Facing: West

Anchor: 20- or 25-meter rope and fist and hand-sized pieces in the crack to the left, and the tree to the right (or a thinner crack closer to the edge with a blade piton).

Natural Anchor: Trees & 40-meter rope.

First explored for aiding until the seam by Dave Gates, Sohan, & Amrit. June 22, 2022.

Lower 5th and upper 4th class. 20 meters.

To the right of the Holy Crack, around the corner of the boulder, a series of boulders form a talus cave system. Scramble through them to hit the High-Noon area and the trail.

The series of piled up boulders provide for a bit of an adventure and potential for cover from the sun. (Not rain so much).

Cave- The line through the cave and over it, is a bouldering line.

Provides for cover from the sun and the rain.

Finger and Hand Crack

The short crack on the trail between Crack Jack and Holy Crack. On the approach to the Red Sea plateau via the path left of Slab Crack Boulder, located just below the main plateau.

Or if approaching from the Red Sea Plateau, on the trail between Holy Crack and the Holy Crack, look for the path going downhill through a jumble of boulders, and through a narrow passageway between the boulders, the path winds down and switchbacks.

About 50 meters from the Holy Crack. The crack is facing west. Another quick one-piece route. A satisfying route for beginner crackclimbers.

Facing: West

Rack: Hand and finger pieces.

Anchor: Crack runs all the way to the top and behind.

Natural Anchor: None / Hip Belay

Diagonal Chimney

The prominent diagonal chimney, facing north, can be easily soloed out. The face to the left of the chimney (facing north) with some potential shallow cracks, could be a Grit style project? The east face arete has been high balled previously.

Facing: Chimney itself faces North

Old problems. Information by Vineeth, name provided by Vikram Murthy

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