Settore Mare Tutte Arrampicata sportiva 16 vie in settore

Exposed and very scenic climb up the less frequented side of Pedra Longa. The route is quite new, sharp and partially you find loose holds. Completely bolted every (2)-3-4m plus chains with ring, but avoid uncontrolled falls (sharp rock). After the traverse pitches, the line is very straight up. Two longer moves (prob. the crux sequences) can be A0-ed (6a obbl.). Retreat difficult (possibly by boat).

Approach: (similar to Cromosomi Corsari) take a path from the restaurant parking to the southern side of Pedra Longa, a little exposed, following the base of a wall. When a pillar splits from the right end of the wall, go left (between the wall and pillar) to find a single bolt for the rappel (27m). !!be very cautious, lots of loose blocks in sandy wall, absolutely dangerous below!!

Climb: Start from almost sea level following the bolts strictly to the right, not up (this is Cromosomi Corsari). Nice exposed traverse for 2 pitches. The water is loud here, maybe bring a walkie talkie. Pitches 3 to 5 bring you almost to the top of the leaning tower, the rock here is still very sharp and partly loose although a lot of the wall was obviously cleared before bolting. The pitches are short and communication should be no problem. The rock quality is getting better and especially the crux pitch offers nice exposed climbing, partially on the edge. From there, reach the summit in 1-2 Pitches.

Descend: follow the tracks of the via normale to the north until some very exposed ridge/ the most northern point, climb down left and follow a slightly ascending band back southwards (without rope or maybe short-roping). Find a rappel anchor under a red overhanging wall or downclimb 15m. From there just follow the path through the scalette sector. 30-50min

Super exposed multipitch above the sea. Very atmospheric, especially the traverse pitch! Average quality rock but extremely well bolted. Supposedly climbable at only 6a+ obligatory grade, but a hold seems to have broken at the crux of the last pitch (probably 6c and not easily escapable).

To access the climb, park at the main Pedra Longa carpark. Take the climbers' path through the bushes opposite the restaurant. Walk (exposed) for about 5-10 minutes in the direction of the main Pedra Long crag until you see a rocky inlet and the crag opposite. Here a rappel (1 bolt with maillon) takes you all the way to the bottom of the inlet (about 25m). At high tide you may need to quit the rappel a bit higher (15m-ish) and then scramble across at the level of some bushes until you can reach the second bolt of P1 on a small ledge.

P1: Traverse and small corner. P2: Corner and featured slab. P3: Exposed traverse. P4: Rambly choss. Be careful. Loose rock here has already caused one accident. P5: More rambly choss. P6: Traverse and a bit of steepness. P7: Technical grey wall.

To descend, prepare for a long and at times exposed scramble. From the last anchor, head left past a large standing boulder. An extra belay is possible just a little further on a small boulder and juniper to bring up the other climber from the final anchor if required. Now continue past this juniper along a path of black earth leading out onto the ridge line of the cliff. Follow the signs of passage and polished rocks on the ground. Near the end of the ridge an easy downclimb is required to your left. After this, head towards the left following the path that seems most trodden. A bit more scrambling and downclimbing will eventually take you down to a larger open space, from which the rest of the path is clear. Count 45-60 minutes for the descent.

Rappel from near the topmost part of Pedra Longa. Marco and an arrow is scratched into the rock, you have to scramble down a few meters. The first pitch is slightly overhanging with slopers and some pockets, rock quality is very good (6b+). The second pitch is more of the same, but with more juggy holds (6b). Pitch 3 is very short on flat holds (6a+). The crux pitch goes slightly to the right with fewer holds in a vertical wall before a short overhanging section (7a). The final pitch has lots of sharp water holes (6a). Overall good rock quality and very well protected. You can walk down from the top, as for the other multi pitches ending here.