Nodi in Wadi Rum

Sandstone trad climbing in another world.

Sandstone becomes brittle when wet because it absorbs water, this effects its internal structure. Once the rock surface is totally dry, you need to wait another 24 hours before climbing, this gives time for the absorbed water to also evaporate and the rock to regain its strength.

Sandstone becomes brittle when wet because it absorbs water, this effects its internal structure. Once the rock surface is totally dry, you need to wait another 24 hours before climbing, this gives time for the absorbed water to also evaporate and the rock to regain its strength.

6b or 5c A1.

Descent: Rappel "Boules Brunes".

Sandstone becomes brittle when wet because it absorbs water, this effects its internal structure. Once the rock surface is totally dry, you need to wait another 24 hours before climbing, this gives time for the absorbed water to also evaporate and the rock to regain its strength.

Small peak, excellent rock! it's the small mount series behind the rest house, just east of Wadi Sbackh.

From the car park follow the Jebal with lots of cairns from the south ridge all the way to the peak. Nice V2 boulder at the peak to reach the very top point.

Descent: Reverse the way or better continue down the north ridge to the shoulder above the col between Wadi Es-Sid and Wadi Sbakh (Rakabat Es-sid), then go back through Sbakh.

2-3 hours.

Topo: Howard guidebook #5.

Sandstone becomes brittle when wet because it absorbs water, this effects its internal structure. Once the rock surface is totally dry, you need to wait another 24 hours before climbing, this gives time for the absorbed water to also evaporate and the rock to regain its strength.

Sandstone becomes brittle when wet because it absorbs water, this effects its internal structure. Once the rock surface is totally dry, you need to wait another 24 hours before climbing, this gives time for the absorbed water to also evaporate and the rock to regain its strength.

Sandstone becomes brittle when wet because it absorbs water, this effects its internal structure. Once the rock surface is totally dry, you need to wait another 24 hours before climbing, this gives time for the absorbed water to also evaporate and the rock to regain its strength.

Topo: Howard guidebook #10.

Sandstone becomes brittle when wet because it absorbs water, this effects its internal structure. Once the rock surface is totally dry, you need to wait another 24 hours before climbing, this gives time for the absorbed water to also evaporate and the rock to regain its strength.

Topo: Howard guidebook #11.

Topo: Howard guidebook #12.

Topo: Howard guidebook #13.

Sandstone becomes brittle when wet because it absorbs water, this effects its internal structure. Once the rock surface is totally dry, you need to wait another 24 hours before climbing, this gives time for the absorbed water to also evaporate and the rock to regain its strength.

Sandstone becomes brittle when wet because it absorbs water, this effects its internal structure. Once the rock surface is totally dry, you need to wait another 24 hours before climbing, this gives time for the absorbed water to also evaporate and the rock to regain its strength.

Topo: Howard guidebook #18.

Topo: Howard guidebook #19.

15 minutes north-west from the Rest House Camp in Rum.

Approach up Wadi S. Bach Pitch numbers a bit different than the TH guide book

1. f5 - 50m Start between the block and the wall, head right to the flake and gain the ramp. Belay on big ledge, there is a bolt about 5m to the right.

2. Walk to the right about 20m, stop at the red wall just before the small roof system starts, still on the main face. You can see some features of P4

3. f5 - Slab a bit run out, belay on a big ledge. (possible to link with P4 stopping just short of the tree ledge). Variation pitch: The wall just 8m right of the bolt-belay (along a fixed sling which you can see from the belay) to the big ledge. Same grade (f5), better belay.

4. f5+ - Vertical crack, this might also be broken up into 2 pitches. Big abseil tree is to the right can end here or carry on. Ropes on tree look a bit old, but okay (tested 02/2023).

5. f5 - The grey slab in front of the big tree. Other topos say no gear but marginal cams can be placed, BD4 used.

6. (A short walk to the left before the start of this pitch.) f5, up the crack, physical, laybacks and jams

7. f5+ up the crack, physical, a mantel, slopey laybacks and jams, tough for the grade (possible option to swing out left on the face rather than direct

8. f3

9. f3

Descent:

Rappel Down the route, then either - repel to the big tree and repels into couloir. - or repels down the main face to the start (one being 60m to the bolt at the top of the 1st pitch).

Topos: Howard guidebook #25.

Sandstone becomes brittle when wet because it absorbs water, this effects its internal structure. Once the rock surface is totally dry, you need to wait another 24 hours before climbing, this gives time for the absorbed water to also evaporate and the rock to regain its strength.

Sandstone becomes brittle when wet because it absorbs water, this effects its internal structure. Once the rock surface is totally dry, you need to wait another 24 hours before climbing, this gives time for the absorbed water to also evaporate and the rock to regain its strength.

Topo: Howard guidebook #26.

Sandstone becomes brittle when wet because it absorbs water, this effects its internal structure. Once the rock surface is totally dry, you need to wait another 24 hours before climbing, this gives time for the absorbed water to also evaporate and the rock to regain its strength.

Sandstone becomes brittle when wet because it absorbs water, this effects its internal structure. Once the rock surface is totally dry, you need to wait another 24 hours before climbing, this gives time for the absorbed water to also evaporate and the rock to regain its strength.

The obvious crack in the north face of Abu Maileh Tower. Approach up Wadi S.Bach. A little harder than the guidebook grades.

1. Scramble up to a ledge with big boulders.

2. Awkward moves into a cave, pull through overhang with good holds.

3. Two grovely corners.

4. Slab then layback on sandy open holds.

Descent: 2 rappels, 50m each, down the right side of the route. 1st from big boulder on the right. 2nd from belay at the top of pitch 2.

Topo: Howard guidebook #28.

South face of Abu Maileh Tower, in front of the East Face of Jebel Rum. 15 minutes from the resthouse. The little tower, the "Camel's Head" (30 meter), can be clearly distinguished when looking from the campground of the resthouse. Walk up from between the farm and the temple.

Brilliant and hard short toprope routes on perfect rock. The belays of the routes ae bolted and can be easily reached by scrambling up the right corner to gain the ledge 15m above.

Topo and pictures.

Sandstone becomes brittle when wet because it absorbs water, this effects its internal structure. Once the rock surface is totally dry, you need to wait another 24 hours before climbing, this gives time for the absorbed water to also evaporate and the rock to regain its strength.

Sandstone becomes brittle when wet because it absorbs water, this effects its internal structure. Once the rock surface is totally dry, you need to wait another 24 hours before climbing, this gives time for the absorbed water to also evaporate and the rock to regain its strength.

Sandstone becomes brittle when wet because it absorbs water, this effects its internal structure. Once the rock surface is totally dry, you need to wait another 24 hours before climbing, this gives time for the absorbed water to also evaporate and the rock to regain its strength.

Sandstone becomes brittle when wet because it absorbs water, this effects its internal structure. Once the rock surface is totally dry, you need to wait another 24 hours before climbing, this gives time for the absorbed water to also evaporate and the rock to regain its strength.

Sandstone becomes brittle when wet because it absorbs water, this effects its internal structure. Once the rock surface is totally dry, you need to wait another 24 hours before climbing, this gives time for the absorbed water to also evaporate and the rock to regain its strength.

Right hand variation.

West face of the little tower.

Sandstone becomes brittle when wet because it absorbs water, this effects its internal structure. Once the rock surface is totally dry, you need to wait another 24 hours before climbing, this gives time for the absorbed water to also evaporate and the rock to regain its strength.

Above the Champs-Élysées ledge, they joined Ramedame (Remy-Remy, 1986) and followed this route for another six pitches (up to 6b) to the top. They placed 11 protection bolts on the new pitches and outfitted the belays with anchor bolts.

Article. Video. AAC article with topo.

#33

#32. Crazy exit.

#31.

#30. 6c or 6a A1.

#29

Loads of classic climbs a short walk from the village. Long, short, bolted or trad.

Very good overview topo.

Timing: Allow for a long day, more if you get lost, which you probably might, more if you want to take it easy and have a break or two. If you are a super-duper mountain guide then perhaps the guide book time of 3-4 hours is achievable.

Sun / Temperature: In August it was bearable with shady belays, but starting in the dark could help.

Gear: Expect rope drag, Cams up to Camalot 3. Some belay stations are bolted. The abseil from the plateau (Hammads ridge) back down to the traverse is about 50m.

Route

• From the village head towards Jebel Rum and take the steps up to Lawrence’s well. Turn right in the minty area and head up the gully.
• After passing between large boulders, towards the top of the gully on the right hand side there will be a rock ramp heading up but facing down the gully (grade 3/4). Someone has also scratched an arrow into the face at the bottom. (Between 40 mins and 1 hour from the village.)

• Traverse the ledge and scramble up

  1. f5- large diagonal crack in the wall, 50m.
• From the shelf traverse a little bit to the right and then head up the plateau (Hammads ridge),look out for a repel station on your right as you climb.
• On the plateau, head left
• find a straight, long and narrow walled chimney/gully that heads to the great siq floor and descend.
• Go east through the great siq with a rappel and two short problems, 2nd being about f5 6m and unprotectable.

• After the 2nd problem you will be at the base of the eye (3 - 4 hours from the village).

  1. f5- wide crack about 50m.

  2. 50m, f5- starts with a tricky chimney

  3. 40m f4 climb the ramp

  4. traverse across to the base of the eye, f3.

  5. Pitch 5 of the main route, climb the slab (and or crack / chimney), in the guide book it is f3 however there are some very tricky sections, with maybe the hardest move of the route, 40m. You are now in the eye.

Descent.

Reverse route about 6 repels to the base, back up through the siq and back up the chimney to hammads ridge. Two options exist from here.

Descent alt. Alternative abseil descent, down jebel rum east face and route mumkin. Somewhat complicated and easy to make mistakes. - 50m From the eye rap diagonally back to below the start of the final pitch. - 25m, hidden. - 50m, heading more east to big ledge at the side of the big black slab - 50m, down big black slab - 50m, - 15m, traversing climbers right, don't go down the gully. - Easy walk through sand to Mumkin abseils.

For more details see http://kbecan.blogspot.com/2014/02/welcome-to-jordan.html

Topo: Howard guidebook #57.

Topo https://www.emontana.cz/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/First-Kiss-TOPO.jpg The crux maybe easier than 7a.

#40

Probably the best rock on Jebel Rum. Starts some meter left of 'Towering Inferno'

Topo

Phototopo by Tobias Wolf

Gear

• 2x 60m Rope
• 14 Quickdraws
• 3x 1,20m Slings
• 3x BD Cams 0.2, 0.3, 0.4 or Metolius Mastercams 1, 2, 3

Source Arnaud Petit

#39. Extends Inferno all the way to the summit, finishing up the final huge chimney of 'Inshallah factor'.

#38

Independent line to the right of 'Revienta o barilla' and crosses 'Insh’Allah Factor' at about half-height. Source planetmountain.com

https://vagabondsdelaverticale.wordpress.com/2020/02/23/la-voie-du-coeur-au-wadi-rum/

Photo Topo shared by Tobias Wolf

#37

mainly sport but trad finish with raid mit the camel

Bolts in difficult sections, making the first 4 pitches sport climbing-like. Need to protect in others.

A glue on critical holds, featured in the reel rock movie "Valley of the Moon". Mainly bolted. Article and topo.

#36

#35

#34

In front of the giant and obvious East Face of Jebel Rum are the smaller East Face Towers. These offer a good selection of short climbs, with good abseil pistes down. Some routes are great as introductionary climbs, after arriving in Rum village.

Sandstone becomes brittle when wet because it absorbs water, this effects its internal structure. Once the rock surface is totally dry, you need to wait another 24 hours before climbing, this gives time for the absorbed water to also evaporate and the rock to regain its strength.

Nice short route at left end of the magnificent East Face of East Dome. Pleasant climbing in cracks and good rock with satisfactory protection. Descent by abseil on the route, take care ropes are jamming.

P1: Start the rip left of the little cave. 2-bolt-belay at ledge or combine with next pitch.

P2: Follow the corner crack sytem. Sling belay left of the ledge (for abseiling) or more comfortable gear belay at the ledge.

P3: Follow the crack, sling belay.

P4: Crux pitch, hard for 5+. Sling belay.

P5: Left leaning corner to the end.

A nice corner just left from Inferno. Ends with traverse right to the Inferno bolt and abseils via it. Few bolts included.

Sandstone becomes brittle when wet because it absorbs water, this effects its internal structure. Once the rock surface is totally dry, you need to wait another 24 hours before climbing, this gives time for the absorbed water to also evaporate and the rock to regain its strength.

Topos: Howard guidebook #45. First 5 pitches of "Towering Inferno"

1. 5c wide crack to your right, and a hidden crack to your left, committing, with a slight overhang move at the end.

2. Climb straight up left wide crack, a bit hard to protect, chimney on the edges, use left face and body jam finding protection inside, good news ! you reach a station of 4 bolt!!

3. Same style a bit easier

4. The crux (Or not !) a traverse left to get to inferno line, that can be easy if you find the right line.

Form here you can try the 6a inferno pitch or just go down on inferno stations

Sandstone becomes brittle when wet because it absorbs water, this effects its internal structure. Once the rock surface is totally dry, you need to wait another 24 hours before climbing, this gives time for the absorbed water to also evaporate and the rock to regain its strength.

Powerful archetypal laybackig and jamming.

Sandstone becomes brittle when wet because it absorbs water, this effects its internal structure. Once the rock surface is totally dry, you need to wait another 24 hours before climbing, this gives time for the absorbed water to also evaporate and the rock to regain its strength.

Sandstone becomes brittle when wet because it absorbs water, this effects its internal structure. Once the rock surface is totally dry, you need to wait another 24 hours before climbing, this gives time for the absorbed water to also evaporate and the rock to regain its strength.

Goldfinger goes up the small pillar that resembles a hand giving the finger, in the middle of the east face of Jebel Rum.

No belays are bolted.

P1: Start up the cracks up and right along to a belay below the obvious crack and chimney (5a, 55m), Build your own anchor.

P2: Climb the finger crack to a big ledge (6a, 35m) (5+ if you know how to finger jam), build your own anchor.

P3: Climb up and left in a corner and proceed further to the very top of the Goldfinger pillar(5b, 20m).

Descent in four rappels down the left (Troubadour) side of the pillar. Rapps on this side are bolted

First 4 pitches of "The Inshallah Factor".

Sandstone becomes brittle when wet because it absorbs water, this effects its internal structure. Once the rock surface is totally dry, you need to wait another 24 hours before climbing, this gives time for the absorbed water to also evaporate and the rock to regain its strength.

Sandstone becomes brittle when wet because it absorbs water, this effects its internal structure. Once the rock surface is totally dry, you need to wait another 24 hours before climbing, this gives time for the absorbed water to also evaporate and the rock to regain its strength.

Home made hangers on dark rock.

Homemade hangers.

P1: Big glue in bolts, few cams and nuts would be needed along the way.

P2-4 trad/sport?

Homemade hangers, sling on the small roof.

Slabish climb with very technical moves.

First 4 pitches of "Aquarius".

Soft rock that comes out in chunks! Not great quality and SCARY we bailed after 2 pitches.

Sandstone becomes brittle when wet because it absorbs water, this effects its internal structure. Once the rock surface is totally dry, you need to wait another 24 hours before climbing, this gives time for the absorbed water to also evaporate and the rock to regain its strength.

Bedouin Route. Howard guidebook #60. Summitpost route description with satellite picture. Topo.

350m in Total

It is possible to climb the first 5 pitches (100m) of 'Coup Par Coup' as an alternative to the final section of the approach, and then start 'The Pillar of Wisdom'

Topos: Howard guidebook #65. & Verticalpirate.

Topos: Howard guidebook #66 Graded TD: Tres Difficile/very difficult (Alpine grade)

Sandstone becomes brittle when wet because it absorbs water, this effects its internal structure. Once the rock surface is totally dry, you need to wait another 24 hours before climbing, this gives time for the absorbed water to also evaporate and the rock to regain its strength.

Sandstone becomes brittle when wet because it absorbs water, this effects its internal structure. Once the rock surface is totally dry, you need to wait another 24 hours before climbing, this gives time for the absorbed water to also evaporate and the rock to regain its strength.

Sandstone becomes brittle when wet because it absorbs water, this effects its internal structure. Once the rock surface is totally dry, you need to wait another 24 hours before climbing, this gives time for the absorbed water to also evaporate and the rock to regain its strength.

Sandstone becomes brittle when wet because it absorbs water, this effects its internal structure. Once the rock surface is totally dry, you need to wait another 24 hours before climbing, this gives time for the absorbed water to also evaporate and the rock to regain its strength.

Bedouin route up the canyon to the summit. Takes the right side of the canyon.

Bedouin route up the canyon to the summit. 2000 years old. Takes the left side of the canyon.

The first recorded route in Rum, by wife and daughter of Tom Longstaff. Ascends the W side of Jebel Rum, Jordan. About 2km

finish on the shoulder of Frustration Dome, north of Sheikh Hamdan’s Siq

finish on the shoulder of Frustration Dome, north of Sheikh Hamdan’s Siq

finish on the shoulder of Frustration Dome, north of Sheikh Hamdan’s Siq

Ivictus (Alema?n-Coll-Sort,) Catalan group climbers, see Desnivel.com

Deliri (Bonsom-Gibert-Mas-Vale?) Catalan group climbers see Desnivel.com

Imposing towers up a suspended garden

Direct line up the main crack system. Classic of the area, sustained climbing with scrambly finish.