Tutti 12 ascensioni visualizzati.
Grado | Via | Stile equipaggiamento | Qualità | |||
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Gio 12 Dic 2013 - El Potrero Chico | ||||||
The Spires South Side | ||||||
5.11d | ★★★ Pangea - con Maria, Steve, and Igor | 24m, 7 | ★★★ Mega Classica | |||
Excellent, excellent climb. Probably the best one at Potrero that we did. Last one on this trip too! Was only going to film Igor doing it, but felt compelled to try- very pumpy, pockety, sidepully, crimpy and pinchy sustaindness on gently overhanging bulletproof limestone. A MUST-DO! 2nd shot
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Gio 12 Dic 2013 - El Potrero Chico | ||||||
Wonder Wall | ||||||
5.8 | ★★ Mr. Hanky - con Maria, Steve, and Igor | 27m, 8 | ★★★ Classica | |||
Very nice, sometimes runout climbing. Better as a warm-up for a climber for whom 5.8 is not that hard, otherwise psychological! Lots of "faithy" reaches and steps on not-that-great footholds
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Mer 11 Dic 2013 - El Potrero Chico | ||||||
Lower Sense of Religion | ||||||
5.10b | ★★ Cactus Pile - con Maria and Steve | 94m, 10 | ★★ Molto buona | |||
Only did the first two pitches today, Steve's first multi-pitch! Party was Maria, Steve, and myself. Very enjoyable first pitch which was lead by Maria and I lead the second, which felt scary, thin, runout and hard! Definitely feels like more than 10b (guide says 5.10?), and by the end, we all were feeling a bit wrecked, Steve's feet hurt, Maria had a migraine, and I felt like I was coming down with something... All in all, pretty good!
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Mar 10 Dic 2013 - El Salto; C.d.G. | ||||||
El Salto Animas Wall | ||||||
5.12a | ★★★ Culo de la Negra - con Igor, Jin, Steve, and Kimberley | 25m, 12 | ★★★ Mega Classica | |||
Extremely cool climbing from tufa to tufa at the start, followed by a powerful 3-bolt sequence which marks the crux. Can make it a little easier by wearing a left kneepad. 2nd shot! Very very very psyched to have done it Extremely cool crag, very pretty creek and waterfalls, the canyon is amazing, definitely coming back! BTW, the Tecolote cave is two river crossings away from Las Animas, and once you get to some big boulders with a third river crossing, go right instead and up to the cave!
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Lun 9 Dic 2013 - El Potrero Chico | ||||||
The Spires North Side | ||||||
5.9 | ★ Crack Test Dummies - con Maria and Kimberley | 75m | ★ Buona | |||
In one word: SCARY! Very runout and overgrown on the first pitch (easy), and very off-widthy and also very runout on the second. We wanted to get to the top of the spires, but we had to bail after I got to the top of the second (lead both), as it was getting dark and Maria had the pack on which would've made the offwidth pretty hard for her. Lots of plantlife with lots of thorns, and a tricky rap down. One to come back to go to the top!
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Lun 9 Dic 2013 - El Potrero Chico | ||||||
Lower Sense of Religion | ||||||
5.9 5.11+ | ★★ La Vaca - con Maria, Igor, Steve, Kimberley and Jin | 55m | ★★ Molto buona | |||
Only did the first pitch. Very enjoyable climbing with fun moves for a slab. As usual, technical on the feet, typical of limestone!
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5.8 | ★★ Abuelito Dime Tu - con Maria, Igor, Steve, Kimberley and Jin | 26m | ★★★ Classica | |||
Very very nice hueco features! Also, some funky body positioning makes for very enjoyable climbing. A must-do of this wall
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Dom 8 Dic 2013 - El Potrero Chico | ||||||
Lower Sense of Religion | ||||||
5.11a | ★★★ Motavation - con Maria, Igor, Jin and Kimberley | 26m, 9 | ★★★ Mega Classica | |||
After trying Team Hilti, Opi recommended us to try this route, and a good recommendation it was! After some bulgy-mantly climbing you get to a clean, gently overhanging pocketed face with excellent pumpy cross over and matching moves all the way to the anchor. Proud OS for sure! Guide says 10d, but feels more like a hard 21, so probably 11a as it says here.
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5.12a | ★★ Bubble Boyz - con Maria, Igor, Jin and Kimberley | 34m | ★★★ Mega Classica | |||
From the guidebook, we gathered that this was the 5.12 to try at Mota Wall, and I agree! Igor was feeling a bit de-motivated to try things at Mota Wall because of the feet-intensive style, but this climb was different. Starts with some easy climbing leading up to a V3 boulder problem between the bulge and the crack, finishing with a burly mantle. After this, you get a really good rest before you have to crank up the pocketed face with small feet for about 15m of grade 22 climbing! Second go
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5.10d | ★★ Team Hilti - con Maria, Igor, Jin and Kimberley | 33m, 12 | ★★ Molto buona | |||
The day before, tried doing a climb in zero temps and a cloud over Potrero! Everything was wet and cold, on the wrong wall and I went to some anchors to clean via three different climbs, scary! We bailed and Maria arrived after then we went to El Buho and then to Monterrey to get some very nice Norteno BBQ and shopping. Later that night Jin and Kimberley arrived Next day it cleared up and we went here, and this tricky, thin-in the feet slab was our warm-up, felt like a good OS to me
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Ven 6 Dic 2013 - El Potrero Chico | ||||||
The Surf Bowl | ||||||
5.12b | ★★ Guppie - con Igor | 29m, 8 | ★★★ Mega Classica | |||
12b in the guidebook, and feels like it too. Igor wanted to try this two-star line, so we got on the pocketed steep face with a fantastic sequence- hopefully we come back to the Surf Bowl try again! Only had one shot that day... We were at sub 10 degree temps with the clouds passing right through us, very humid and we would often have a cloud between the climber and belayer
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5.12a | ★★ Blue Fin - con Igor | 30m, 12 | ★★★ Classica | |||
First climb in this Mexico trip! We were meant to be climbing since early on the 6th, but since our flights got messed around we ended up spending the night in Houston and had to arrive on the 6th and we started climbing at around 1 pm. First part is so-so, found it scary and hard at first, with he usual adaptation period for the tricky limestone footwork- after seeing Igor on it and getting some encouragement from him, managed to send it second go! Classic kneebarry upper half First 12a!
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