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Ascensioni in Nuevo León da Justin Case che possiede sport-cpr o ascent-date

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Tutti 12 ascensioni visualizzati.

Grado Via Stile equipaggiamento Qualità
Gio 12 Dic 2013 - El Potrero Chico
The Spires South Side
5.11d Pangea - con Maria, Steve, and Igor Sportiva 24m, 7 Mega Classica
Excellent, excellent climb. Probably the best one at Potrero that we did. Last one on this trip too! Was only going to film Igor doing it, but felt compelled to try- very pumpy, pockety, sidepully, crimpy and pinchy sustaindness on gently overhanging bulletproof limestone. A MUST-DO! 2nd shot

 
Gio 12 Dic 2013 - El Potrero Chico
Wonder Wall
5.8 Mr. Hanky - con Maria, Steve, and Igor Sportiva 27m, 8 Classica
Very nice, sometimes runout climbing. Better as a warm-up for a climber for whom 5.8 is not that hard, otherwise psychological! Lots of "faithy" reaches and steps on not-that-great footholds

 
Mer 11 Dic 2013 - El Potrero Chico
Lower Sense of Religion
5.10b Cactus Pile - con Maria and Steve Sportiva 94m, 10 Molto buona
Only did the first two pitches today, Steve's first multi-pitch! Party was Maria, Steve, and myself. Very enjoyable first pitch which was lead by Maria and I lead the second, which felt scary, thin, runout and hard! Definitely feels like more than 10b (guide says 5.10?), and by the end, we all were feeling a bit wrecked, Steve's feet hurt, Maria had a migraine, and I felt like I was coming down with something... All in all, pretty good!

 
Mar 10 Dic 2013 - El Salto; C.d.G.
El Salto Animas Wall
5.12a Culo de la Negra - con Igor, Jin, Steve, and Kimberley Sportiva 25m, 12 Mega Classica
Extremely cool climbing from tufa to tufa at the start, followed by a powerful 3-bolt sequence which marks the crux. Can make it a little easier by wearing a left kneepad. 2nd shot! Very very very psyched to have done it Extremely cool crag, very pretty creek and waterfalls, the canyon is amazing, definitely coming back! BTW, the Tecolote cave is two river crossings away from Las Animas, and once you get to some big boulders with a third river crossing, go right instead and up to the cave!

 
Lun 9 Dic 2013 - El Potrero Chico
The Spires North Side
5.9 Crack Test Dummies - con Maria and Kimberley Sportiva 75m Buona
In one word: SCARY! Very runout and overgrown on the first pitch (easy), and very off-widthy and also very runout on the second. We wanted to get to the top of the spires, but we had to bail after I got to the top of the second (lead both), as it was getting dark and Maria had the pack on which would've made the offwidth pretty hard for her. Lots of plantlife with lots of thorns, and a tricky rap down. One to come back to go to the top!

 
Lun 9 Dic 2013 - El Potrero Chico
Lower Sense of Religion
5.9 5.11+ La Vaca - con Maria, Igor, Steve, Kimberley and Jin Sportiva 55m Molto buona
Only did the first pitch. Very enjoyable climbing with fun moves for a slab. As usual, technical on the feet, typical of limestone!

 
5.8 Abuelito Dime Tu - con Maria, Igor, Steve, Kimberley and Jin Sportiva 26m Classica
Very very nice hueco features! Also, some funky body positioning makes for very enjoyable climbing. A must-do of this wall

 
Dom 8 Dic 2013 - El Potrero Chico
Lower Sense of Religion
5.11a Motavation - con Maria, Igor, Jin and Kimberley Sportiva 26m, 9 Mega Classica
After trying Team Hilti, Opi recommended us to try this route, and a good recommendation it was! After some bulgy-mantly climbing you get to a clean, gently overhanging pocketed face with excellent pumpy cross over and matching moves all the way to the anchor. Proud OS for sure! Guide says 10d, but feels more like a hard 21, so probably 11a as it says here.

 
5.12a Bubble Boyz - con Maria, Igor, Jin and Kimberley Sportiva 34m Mega Classica
From the guidebook, we gathered that this was the 5.12 to try at Mota Wall, and I agree! Igor was feeling a bit de-motivated to try things at Mota Wall because of the feet-intensive style, but this climb was different. Starts with some easy climbing leading up to a V3 boulder problem between the bulge and the crack, finishing with a burly mantle. After this, you get a really good rest before you have to crank up the pocketed face with small feet for about 15m of grade 22 climbing! Second go

 
5.10d Team Hilti - con Maria, Igor, Jin and Kimberley Sportiva 33m, 12 Molto buona
The day before, tried doing a climb in zero temps and a cloud over Potrero! Everything was wet and cold, on the wrong wall and I went to some anchors to clean via three different climbs, scary! We bailed and Maria arrived after then we went to El Buho and then to Monterrey to get some very nice Norteno BBQ and shopping. Later that night Jin and Kimberley arrived Next day it cleared up and we went here, and this tricky, thin-in the feet slab was our warm-up, felt like a good OS to me

 
Ven 6 Dic 2013 - El Potrero Chico
The Surf Bowl
5.12b Guppie - con Igor Sportiva 29m, 8 Mega Classica
12b in the guidebook, and feels like it too. Igor wanted to try this two-star line, so we got on the pocketed steep face with a fantastic sequence- hopefully we come back to the Surf Bowl try again! Only had one shot that day... We were at sub 10 degree temps with the clouds passing right through us, very humid and we would often have a cloud between the climber and belayer

 
5.12a Blue Fin - con Igor Sportiva 30m, 12 Classica
First climb in this Mexico trip! We were meant to be climbing since early on the 6th, but since our flights got messed around we ended up spending the night in Houston and had to arrive on the 6th and we started climbing at around 1 pm. First part is so-so, found it scary and hard at first, with he usual adaptation period for the tricky limestone footwork- after seeing Igor on it and getting some encouragement from him, managed to send it second go! Classic kneebarry upper half First 12a!

 

Tutti 12 ascensioni visualizzati.

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