Aiuto

Wonder Wall

  • Contesto grado: US
  • Foto: 1
  • Ascensioni: 742
  • Aka: Los Asadores

Stagionalità

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Descrizione

This is the wall across the back of the picnic area above the pools, with BBQs along its base. It is the first wall to the right along the front-side of the Potrero.

Be very careful on this wall, especially on the upper pitches of any mulit-pitch routes, when the pools and picnic/BBQ area is busy. Any rock fall could hurt locals, including children, who will not be looking for or expecting rock fall. (In fact, it is probably best to not climb anything multi-pitch on this wall if the pools and picnicing is at all busy.)

Esta pared se encuentra en la parte trasera de las albercas. En la base hay varios asadores.

Hay que tener mucho cuidado de no tirar piedras en los multi-largos.

Limitazioni per l'accesso ereditato da El Potrero Chico

Most of the climbing here is in a State Park. As of 2023 there is a one-time 250 peso fee to climb for the entire winter climbing season. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges. Respect the local land people by packing out what you pack in.

Avvicinamento

Walk up past the pools and BBQs to the obvious wall.

Entras por las albercas y caminas a la izquoerda subiendo rumbo a la pared mas cercana

Etica ereditato da Nuevo León

Please don´t litter, some crags like LaHuasteca are a little runout, but thats how they were set, please avoid adding bolts. Rebolting efforts are much apreciated, just send a heads up to the local climbing comunity for safety reasons.

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Vie

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Grado Via

The first two climbs aren't truly on the "Wonder Wall", but around the corner to the left, facing into the main canyon.

Las primeras dos rutas no están en la pared principal, si no a la izquierda a la vuelta de la pared principal subiendo por los escalones que van rumbo a la virgen.

Climbs through heavy vegetation in this small corner at the far left side of Wonder wall. Has intermediate anchors for rapping with a 60 meter rope.

Escalas por una sección cpn mucha vegetación sobre el lado izquierdo de womderwall. Tiene "reunión" intermedia para rappelear con cuerda de 60 metros.

Shares first 3 bolts with Alley Cat and intermediate anchors. Then climbs up and right onto the face.

Comparte las primeras 3 placas con Alley Cat y reunión intermedia. Luego escalas arriba y a la derecha porbla placa.

Two dihedrals, the right most now bolted, up to an anchor.

Originally used for belaying local kids to introduce them to climbing.

Dos diedros, el de la extrema derecha ahora plaqueteado, hasta una reunión.

Originalmemte se usaba para dar belay a niños locales en sesiones de introducción a la escalada.

"Best 5.8 in Potrero." according to Dane's guidebook.

First climb right of the dihedrals, goes past an intermediate anchor after 5 bolts.

"El mejor 5.8 de potrero" según la guía de Dane Bass.

Primera ruta a la derecha de los diedros, pasando una reunión inteedia despues de la quinta placa.

FA: Dane Bass

Avvertimento Attrezzatura fissa: Chopped Bolts

Climb the thin crack just right of "Mr. Hanky", and shares anchor with it.

Escalas la grieta delgada a la derecha de "Mr. Hanky" y comparte reunión con ella.

Super Sweet 5.10a

Climb the obvious crack and then over the bulge at the top.

Excelente 5.10a

Subes por una grieta obvia y luego escalas una panza en la parte superior.

FA: Dane Bass

Starts up thin slab above the large flake leaning against the wall.

Comienzas escalando una placa a favor arriba de uma laja grande que esta recargada en la pared.

Starts 5ft (2m) right of the large flake leaning against the wall, and angles leftward after the first couple of bolts.

FA: Dane Bass & Ralph Vega

Starts 10ft (3m) right of the big flake that is leaning against the wall. Veer left after the 3rd bolt.

FA: Dane Bass & Rick Ross

Same start as "The Great Baldini", but branches right afetr the 3rd bolt.

FA: Ralph Vega & Prentess Berry

Starts right behind a concrete picnic BBQ/table.

Be careful at the finish (last bolt) to stay right, else you'll finish on the anchors of "Redheaded Stepchild".

If you climb left mid-route it's a little easier.

FA: Dane Bass & Rick Ross

Avvertimento Roccia: Bolt 11 loose rocks on the right

Lovely route. Goes up for 5 bolts, then angles leftward.

FA: Dane Bass & Rick Ross

1 5.9
2 5.9
3 5.9

Jug haul on slab. Ideal route to practice your multipitch technique. Runs up just to the left of "Evil Shenanigans".

FA: Magic Ed & Ann Ramsey

1 5.9
2 5.11b
3 5.10c

Great 3 Pitch climb on far right of the wall.

This runs very close to "Ramsey's Shenanigans"; don't wander onto it, if you want full value for the 2nd (11b) and 3rd (10c) pitches.

FA: Dane Bass & Rick Ross

This route has a 5.11a variation.

Climb “The Devil’s Pitchfrok Direct” up to the 7th bolt and trend right the slightly overhanging face.

Lo sapevi?

Sai che puoi creare un account per registrare e condividere le tue ascensioni? Migliaia di arrampicatori lo stanno già facendo.

Selected Guidebooks more Nascondi

Autore/i: Frank P. Madden

Data: 2022

ISBN: 979-8218024314

The latest guidebook to El Potrero Chico is now available in its third edition. This book has comprehensive detail of not just the routes but how and when to be there. Single pitch or multi-pitch, this book has it all. More great crag photos to help locate the spot you want to climb as well as plenty of topo photos to help you find all the routes you will want to climb. The new edition also has a new history, local history and geology section of the guidebook produced by local members of the community! There is also the long awaited index by grade! A comprehensive guidebook for all of El Potrero Chico, Las Ventanas de Mina (Crescent Moon Buttress and Culo de Gato), Grutas de García, La Popa and Boca de los Potrerillos. Including a couple newly developed crags called Narnia and SunnyVale, and more than a few new routes unpublished anywhere else. Has multi-pitch topo photos for the classic routes with pitch by pitch information.

Alloggi in zona more Nascondi

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Sab 29 Apr
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