From the Chichidho lodge: Head on trail straght towards the peña. The trail will trend right. When you hit a sharp left, take it. You will go past a boulder, and eventually veer right again towards the King Kong buttress. Walk past the ramp-like feature on your left. King Kong is identifiable for a round, nook-like intentation in the rock right below three close bolts.
5.10c. Start off with a small boulder problem between bolt 1 and 3. Solid, fluid climbing thereon. - 11 quickdraws + R
5.10b. A small ledge early on, followed by crimpy, vertical face climbing makes for an interesting pitch. Then a scramble up to the most comfortable belay ledges of the 4 pitches.
5.10a. Relaxed, highly featured climbing. - 12 quickdraws + R
5.10c. This is the King Kong pitch. Go up an eroded, water slide-looking feature, with sharp, funky holds on each side. Unique, gorgeous rock. Makes it all worth it. From here, you can continue four more pitches to the top of the so-called King Kong buttress.
5.7. Go all the way up heading left through a funky scramble, follow the bolts up to a first set of chains on a comfy ledge where you can belay from above or follow the scramble up and left to a second set of chains on a comfy ledge also (if you do this, use a large quick draw to avoid rope drag)
5.10b. From the belay station there is a deep ditch where you need to climb down before continue way up to the route. Sloppery holds and hidden crimps.
5.10a. Bolts on this pitch tend to be spaced between each other but holds are in good condition. There is a set of chain which you can skip up to the next set.
5.4. All the way up to the shoulder where the dirt ledge starts, follow the metal cable to the left to a set of anchors or continue up to a second set of anchors right in the summiit.
Rap down the route following the bolts, exactly were you climbed up. There as been many people who mistaken the rap route and got in trouble.
Route setter: Luis Carlos Garcia, Bernardo Ezeta & Mathias Ape | |
Prima ascensione: Luis Carlos Garcia, Bernardo Ezeta & Mathias Ape |
5.10c,5.10b,5.10b,5.10c,5.7,5.10b,5.10a,4 | Grado comunitario registrato |
★★★Bowline Dandy | |
5.10b [5.10a - 5.10c] - | grAId |
5.10c,5.10b,5.10b,5.10c,5.7,5.10b,5.10a,4 | MexBN |
No chipping, erase tick marks after using them, bring out what you bring in, do not bring misbehaved dogs/pets, do not destroy local flora/fauna, do not play loud music, and be kind and respectful to the locals.
Overall quality 80 from 21 ratings.
In base a 4 valutazioni.
In base a 4 valutazioni.
★★★ King Kong La Bestia Electromecánica 5.10c - C24AB8EB-C16D-49D5-9F9C-4645334E0CB2.jpeg
Bowline Dandy su ★★★ King Kong La Bestia Electromecánica 5.10c - 4C5D48D4-4F00-4A86-A3D7-12C2FA23144C.jpeg
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