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1 5.10c
2 5.10b
3 5.10b
4 5.10c
5 5.7
6 5.10b
7 5.10a
8 5.4

Beschreibung

From the Chichidho lodge: Head on trail straght towards the peña. The trail will trend right. When you hit a sharp left, take it. You will go past a boulder, and eventually veer right again towards the King Kong buttress. Walk past the ramp-like feature on your left. King Kong is identifiable for a round, nook-like intentation in the rock right below three close bolts.

  1. 5.10c. Start off with a small boulder problem between bolt 1 and 3. Solid, fluid climbing thereon. - 11 quickdraws + R

  2. 5.10b. A small ledge early on, followed by crimpy, vertical face climbing makes for an interesting pitch. Then a scramble up to the most comfortable belay ledges of the 4 pitches.

  3. 5.10a. Relaxed, highly featured climbing. - 12 quickdraws + R

  4. 5.10c. This is the King Kong pitch. Go up an eroded, water slide-looking feature, with sharp, funky holds on each side. Unique, gorgeous rock. Makes it all worth it. From here, you can continue four more pitches to the top of the so-called King Kong buttress.

  5. 5.7. Go all the way up heading left through a funky scramble, follow the bolts up to a first set of chains on a comfy ledge where you can belay from above or follow the scramble up and left to a second set of chains on a comfy ledge also (if you do this, use a large quick draw to avoid rope drag)

  6. 5.10b. From the belay station there is a deep ditch where you need to climb down before continue way up to the route. Sloppery holds and hidden crimps.

  7. 5.10a. Bolts on this pitch tend to be spaced between each other but holds are in good condition. There is a set of chain which you can skip up to the next set.

  8. 5.4. All the way up to the shoulder where the dirt ledge starts, follow the metal cable to the left to a set of anchors or continue up to a second set of anchors right in the summiit.

Rap down the route following the bolts, exactly were you climbed up. There as been many people who mistaken the rap route and got in trouble.

Historie der Route

Erschliesser: Luis Carlos Garcia, Bernardo Ezeta & Mathias Ape
Erstbegehung: Luis Carlos Garcia, Bernardo Ezeta & Mathias Ape

Warnungen

Position

Breite/Länge: 20.74968, -99.94613

Schwierigkeitsgrad-Referenzen

5.10c,5.10b,5.10b,5.10c,5.7,5.10b,5.10a,4 Schwierigkeitsgrad
5.10b [5.10a - 5.10c] - grAId
5.10c,5.10b,5.10b,5.10c,5.7,5.10b,5.10a,4 MexBN

Ethik

No chipping, erase tick marks after using them, bring out what you bring in, do not bring misbehaved dogs/pets, do not destroy local flora/fauna, do not play loud music, and be kind and respectful to the locals.

übernommen von Peña de Bernal

Saisonalität

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Saisonalität

Qualität

Mega-Klassiker
Klassiker
Sehr gut
Gut
Durchschnitt
Vergiss es
Schrott

Gesamtqualität 80 aus 21 Bewertungen.

Schwierigkeit - 5.10c

sehr leicht
leicht
normal
schwer
sehr schwer

Basiert auf 4 Bewertungen.

Vorgeschlagener Grad

5.10b
5.10c
5.10d

Basiert auf 4 Bewertungen.

Begehungsarten

Onsight 8
Flash 1
Rotpunkt 3
geklettert 9
Toprope 1
Versuch 2

Schlüsselworte in Bemerkungen

fun super great fantastic cool classic roof easy short steep traverse hands rest slopey bad crux exposed

Unterkünfte in der Nähe mehr Verbergen

Inhalt teilen

Mi 3 Mai
Finde heraus, was in King Kong La Bestia Electromecánica passiert.

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