Vie come sportiva in The Virgin Canyon

Comparte reunion con XL Puff Sneaker

The obvious crack up the right side of the Surf Board.

Dane says 5.7, Ed 5.9. Averaged to 5.8. (With good crack technique -- probably is 5.7, but feels like 5.9 to a face climber.)

Another classic in EPC. Climbs the big obvious flake feature. Don't wander onto the face, just really get into that crack.

Dane's book puts this as 5.11c, and Simeon copies this error. Ed and Frank give it 5.10c. If it is 5.10c, it is the softest 5.10c in the world.

Starts on top of a large boulder, with a high first bolt. Good climbing on good holds -- though still quite sharp.

Needs a 70m rope. Pitch 2, at roof -- 3 lines of bolts diverge, left goes nowhere, center goes over roof at 5.11a, right goes around roof and back at 5.10d.

Also, a 70m rope won't descend the first pitch, rap to the anchor for A Gringo At My Baby instead.

Starts just ro the right of Blind Faith. Climb the crack up to the small right-facing corner to a crack finish.

Starts below a detached block about 8feet up the wall, five feet right of A Gringo Ate My Baby, then heads up and slightly left to a thin crack.

A bit run-out in places.

Listed as 5.9+ in the (Ed's) book, the route setter (Dane Bass) calls it an honest 5.8.

(Dane's book lists it as 5.9) The name of the route is written with red ink (hard to find).

Starts where the staircase hits the wall.

Second route going up the staircase.

The third route going up the staircase. Its a very nice and easy roof with huge holds, easy to read.

Excellent route with nice holds! Shares reunion with "Spin Doctor"

(I think this was originally a 2-pitch route, later extended to 4 pitches.)

80m rope recommended, if you go to the route's reunion (and not that of the neighbouring line)

Starts off the big ledge 135ft up, climb “Cabeza de Chivo” or Selam to access.

Starts off the big ledge 135ft up, climb Cabeza or Selam to access.

Climb clean face to obvious overhang, pull overhang and finish up slab above to anchors.

Recomended 80m rope. Knot the end of your rope.

With shorter than an 80m rope, bring 2nd up and rappel twice using the anchor of "Flying Scorpions" to the right.

With a long/stretchy 70m rope, and a heavy climber, you might make it within acceptable scrambling distance of the ground.

Start on the dark grey streak.

Route runs close to and shares anchor with "Tilting at Windmills". Rusty bolts.

Nice line, resistance on decent holds with small feet. High first bolt- use the 1st (rusty) bolt of "Silverfish" if reqd.

Slab with good holds, feet become more challenging at the top of the face. Very high first bolt - can use the 1st (rusty) bolt of "Silverfish" if needed. 5th bolt very loose, needs gluing. 8m+ runout to the reunion, a thread through can be used to reduce this runout. Reunion poorly bolted; rappel or lower on one ring to avoid a curly rope.

Starts from the Amateur ledge, above "Sancho Panza" -- or access it from the end of the 3rd class ledge (up a corner, 1 bolt) in the "Upper Virgin Wall".

Starts from the Amateur ledge, above "Sancho Panza" -- or access it from the end of the 3rd class ledge (up a corner, 1 bolt) in the "Upper Virgin Wall".

Dane says, "open project", Ed says, "unfinished, keep off".

The REAL GRADE of this route si 5.11c. If you decide to stay on the blank face of the wall and DO NOT use the dihedral/arète on the right side of the final section the grade is harder 5.12a/b but this is a variation and should not be considered the official grade of the route since it is not the best beta.

Near the top, follow the flake that trends left to the anchors of "Mexico in Flames"

Start on "Mugre Mugre", but instead of trending left on the upper flake, climb straight up for the final bolt.

Another retro-bolted trad route.

The belay station is up high on the wall next to a little tree, get there by hiking the 3rd class ramp or by climbing El Balota, Mexico on Flames or Mugre Mugre. Make sure to take a daisy chain with you for belaying.

This is the 2nd pitch of the 2 pitch climb "Mexico in Flames" that starts on the "Lower Virgin Wall". Info here for route-finding ease.

Shares anchor with "Milk Cow Blues".

Ruta que sale para la izquierda y pasa por un pequeño diedro, para volver a salir hacia la izquierda.

Has a metal nameplate on the wall.

Tiene placa metálica con el nombre en la pared.

Latest cleanup performed March 27th, 2022

Última limpieza realizada en Marzo 27, 2022

Has a metal nameplate on the wall.

Tiene placa metálica con el nombre en la pared.

Latest cleanup performed March 20th 2022

Ultima limpieza realizada en Marzo 20, 2022

Has a metal nameplate on the wall.

Tiene placa con el nombre en la pared.

Bring a couple of long draws for the 9th and 10th bolt if you have them.

Si puedes, lleva un par de bandas(cintas) largas para las placas 9 y 10.

Latest cleanup on March 20th, 2022

Limpieza más reciente en Marzo 20, 2022

Spoiler alert: *run-out on easy terrain from 8th to 9th bolt.

*hebra en terreno tranquilo de la placa 8 a la 9.

No more loose rocks and thorny plants, Enjoy!

Ya sin piedra suelta ni plantas espinozas, Disfruten!

Has a metal nameplate on the wall.

Tiene placa metálica con el nombre en la pared.

Latest cleanup performed March 27th, 2022

Última limpieza realizada en Marzo 27, 2022

From last bolt to the anchor aim to arrive on the right side of the anchor.

De la última placa a la reunión intenta llegar por el lado derecho de la reunión.

Last (upper most) route on “Venom Wall”.

Última (de más arriba) ruta en "Venom Wall".

Three routes to the left before the tunnel. Slab climb on vegetated terrain. Left of “Bond of Peace”.

Has a metal nameplate on the wall. Second route left of the tunnel.

1st pitch (5.9): 11 bolts, 2 bolt anchor.

2nd pitch (5.9): 12 bolts, 2 bolt anchor.

3rd pitch (5.11-): 8 bolts, 2 bolt anchor.

The first two pitches make a nice 2-pitch relaxed 5.8 climb.

Bolts that are just to the left of where you pass through a small cave to continue up canyon.

First two pitches are easy slab, third pitch is long (112ft) up thin face.

Walk up through the tunnel and continue up and left onto a nice ledge. This is the left most route on the ledge, has a metal nameplate on the wall.

Ed (FA) say 5.10b. Dane says 5.9.

Ed (FA) say 5.10b/c, Dane say 5.9.

Escalada genial con algunas características de grieta.

Cool climbing with crack features.

IT IS LOCATED A FEW METERS ABOVE THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE MARICAHI, ON THE FLAMINGOS WALL

Same first pitch as "Strokin' the Bishop".

Climb the (shared with next three climbs) easy access pitch, go all the way to the left end of the ramp, then up.

Climb shared easy access pitch (5.8), then on ledge traverse 25ft left before heading up.

After climbing easy access pitch, trend immediately up and left to the first bolt.

Climb easy access pitch (do I sound like I'm repeating myself?), then climb face at right end of ramp. (Scary runout to anchors.)

Few bolts per pitch, home-made funky hangars. R-rated.

Subiendo 10 a 15 minutos de la ultima pared llamada: Ripped Wall. Encontraras un Multilargo divertido y con una bella recompensa visual desde lo mas alto de una terraza comoda sobre un pilar, ubicado en lo mas profundo del cañon de la Virgen.

Se compone de 3 largos con un nivel máximo de 5.10b.

Advertencia: Tener cuidado con la rocas sueltas en las repisas de área de belay, ya que no es muy transitada.

Climb up easy ramp to left-most bolt line.

Follows cold shuts up the center of the wall.

Starts 40ft up the gully to the left of the overlook.