Vie come sportiva in Lower Virgin Wall

(I think this was originally a 2-pitch route, later extended to 4 pitches.)

80m rope recommended, if you go to the route's reunion (and not that of the neighbouring line)

Starts off the big ledge 135ft up, climb “Cabeza de Chivo” or Selam to access.

Starts off the big ledge 135ft up, climb Cabeza or Selam to access.

Climb clean face to obvious overhang, pull overhang and finish up slab above to anchors.

Recomended 80m rope. Knot the end of your rope.

With shorter than an 80m rope, bring 2nd up and rappel twice using the anchor of "Flying Scorpions" to the right.

With a long/stretchy 70m rope, and a heavy climber, you might make it within acceptable scrambling distance of the ground.

Start on the dark grey streak.

Route runs close to and shares anchor with "Tilting at Windmills". Rusty bolts.

Nice line, resistance on decent holds with small feet. High first bolt- use the 1st (rusty) bolt of "Silverfish" if reqd.

Slab with good holds, feet become more challenging at the top of the face. Very high first bolt - can use the 1st (rusty) bolt of "Silverfish" if needed. 5th bolt very loose, needs gluing. 8m+ runout to the reunion, a thread through can be used to reduce this runout. Reunion poorly bolted; rappel or lower on one ring to avoid a curly rope.

Starts from the Amateur ledge, above "Sancho Panza" -- or access it from the end of the 3rd class ledge (up a corner, 1 bolt) in the "Upper Virgin Wall".

Starts from the Amateur ledge, above "Sancho Panza" -- or access it from the end of the 3rd class ledge (up a corner, 1 bolt) in the "Upper Virgin Wall".

Dane says, "open project", Ed says, "unfinished, keep off".

The REAL GRADE of this route si 5.11c. If you decide to stay on the blank face of the wall and DO NOT use the dihedral/arète on the right side of the final section the grade is harder 5.12a/b but this is a variation and should not be considered the official grade of the route since it is not the best beta.

Near the top, follow the flake that trends left to the anchors of "Mexico in Flames"

Start on "Mugre Mugre", but instead of trending left on the upper flake, climb straight up for the final bolt.

Another retro-bolted trad route.