Ascensioni in Gorges du Todgha

Very sharp rock which is hard on the hands but fun. The raps down were slightly annoying becuase the rope was getting caught on everything. Easy for the grade but a great multi-pitch for beginners.

The First of Ela (F5+) 250 meter.

Place: (31.5828963, -5.5927324) Walk along the river. Look for a electrocity post and walk up a sandy hillside.

1. pitch 4:You will meet a big rock and maybe you can’t see the next bolt. Look to the left and traverse to the left.

2. Pitch 10:You reach a big plateau and might not see a bolt. Scramble 10 meters up to the wall to the left and you will see and anchor.

3. Pitch 13:You will be on a mountain back (safe), but you haven’t reach the top yet! Look to the pyramid shaped top and you will have to climb 3 more bolt. At the top (Where you can sit) there is an abseil anchor. You can then abseil down to the left and then continue scrambling down.

Remember: Trekking shoes. Clothes for the wind and weather change. Food. It took us 7,5 hours to climb. And 1 hour scrambling down.

It is easy climbing, but important that one of you is an experienced climber!

ENJOY it’s an amazing experience:-)

Remember: Your guidebook, warm clothes, trad gear for extra protection, food/water, good trekking shoes for the long decent (1 hour). It took us 7,5 hours to climb and 1 hour to decent. Do not underestimate this route.

You need to scramble to find the starting point. Somebody has painted “TIK”. The ascent is step, but loads of footholds and grips. When you reach the last anchor you can just start your ascend

No anchor at end of the first pitch. Quicklink present though.

No anchor at the end of first pitch.

Bring trad gear. Big runouts on very sharp stone, the crux is on the second pitch. Scramble around 50m, then go left you will see fixed ropes and first abseil spot. 2x60m half ropes were enough for 2 abseils.

Easy MP, with 2 bit harder pitches, the rest is scramble like. First pitch is the hardest. Walk off 2+ hours. Around 7 hours for whole route and walkoff. Few cams needed for mental protection in long runouts.