The North Face Tutte Arrampicata trad 6 vie in parete

1. To reach the next route head left along the track past some steep faces (good boulder traverse) to a large left leaning dihedral. This is the Dihedral Wall, and is easy to spot from the carpark. Climb easily up to the base of a shallow groove a few feet left of the dihedral. Head up the groove past a fixed nut, traversing left at the top of a ledge to two bolts. A bit run out. From here there are two options for continuing. Pitch

2. From the two bolts head right to the crack (look for an old wooden peg from the original attempt). Step right and follow a series of underclings (1½ cam) and scoops to a right tending ramp (bolt and 3 cam), then up to chain belay. The bolts were added by Guy White, Chris North and Emily Lane in 1996, thinking they were doing a

Instead of belaying at the bolts at the end of the first pitch of The Dihedral, carry on straight up through some flakey ground (crux) to the crack (cams). Follow the crack left around a corner (cams) and up to a piton to belay. To descend, traverse left and down to a small tree and abseil off.

1. An enjoyable, airy climb, and the most direct line on the North Face. Climb the first two pitches of The Dihedral, avoiding the belay station at the end of the first pitch.

2. Starts to the right of belay bolts. Climb the face direct past a bush (bolt). Move up to a ramp (friends) tending left to reach another bolt. Climb through bulges (cams and 3 bolts), then follow crack to reach chain belay next to small manuka bushes.

3. Up a slab left of the belay, through a bulge (large cam and 10 hex), to an easy scramble rightish (bolt) before stepping onto ramp. More bolts protect the crux — an overhang surmounted by bridging, then through a grassy bit to belay on a large rock to left.

1. About 40m further left is a grassy bank. On the left is a slabby rock band, and this is the start. Climb the slab via small ledges and bridging near the top to a large grass covered bank and tree belay on left. Not much pro.

2. A difficult to find and strenuous start on the face below an overhang till a jug can be reached. Climb up to overhang (cams), then traverse left on small holds till the roof can be turned via a jug and small ledge. Head right to grassy ledge and belay off small tree.

3. Head up and right to large mantleshelf ledge (peg). Continue right and up over small sloping ledges (nuts and a bolt) till a tree covered bank is reached. At the next wall step left onto a shallow corner (bolt) and follow up and right to large flax and bolt belay. Can be climbed as two pitches to reduce rope drag.

4. Climb straight up past two bolts then tend left to a bulge with a crack underneath. Step left past the hangered bolt and continue up, moving with difficulty past another bolt. Finish by jamming up a large crack to an airy bolt belay.

5. Named “Numb Nutties Traverse”, head left (past a poor excuse for an expansion bolt from the first ascent) around awkward bulges till a belay stance can be reached.

6. Climb up on easy sloping slabs and cracks to the summit. Although there are a number of bolts, a full rack of natural gear, especially cams, is necessary. Try and pick out the route from the carpark, as the line is not always obvious. Plenty of big wall atmosphere, especially on the higher pitches.

1. Down at the track walk left for a few metres where easy rock can be scrambled up to reach the same grassy bank as for the end of the first pitch of Green Eggs and Ham. Look for a dirty vertical crack. This is the start. Climb the crack to the cave. The original ascent used aid, but the pitch has since been freed. Scramble up and left along the tree covered ledge past steep walls until a line of least resistance becomes apparent.

2. Head up, right and up again through broken ground till the top is reached. Can be broken into two pitches to avoid rope drag. A pleasant enough climb, all on natural pro.

From behind the boulder move up into a steep fingery layback to small ledge (2½ or 3 cam). Good pro (2 cam) on the left as you get out around the arete at two-thirds height and up to belay off trees. This route may extend and complete the 1972 attempt at the same site by Pete Jemmett and Robbie McBirney, labelled Hang It.