Vie in Wharepapa South

Up the slab with 1 bolt for protection. Into the corner and follow it to the top.

Starts from the right hand end of the ledge. Follow crack feature to the right of GPT.

The bolted line just right of the fixed rope. Head up the left trending groove until half height, then take the left line of bolts up the headwall.

Starts as for Doing it at Dawn, then at half height take the righthand line of bolts.

Heads up the left-hand rib right of No Country for Old Men.

Climbs the smooth (and often mossy) slab and shallow groove before climbing left of the arete. A tough onsight.

Once you climb it you wont criticize the number of bolts.

Heads up the low-angle groove, moving into a sustained corner system and face.

Up the manky left-hand corner crack to DBC anchor. You may need to dig it out on the way.

The right-hand (cleaner) corner and crack with a tree part-way up. Continues on bolts above the DBC anchor of Short n Sweet with some balancy moves and thought-provoking finish over the top to a DBC anchor.

Starts in the narrow crack before heading past 2 bolts to the anchor.

Head up the difficult looking rounded pillar left of the big corner to a DB belay.

Climb the arching seam just right of the corner. Can place a cam otherwise catch some air time.

Head up the left-facing crack until a seam is met. Clip the third bolt then head along this seam right then up until you grab the arete. Continue up the arete to the anchor.

Starts as for Handsome Julio, then heads directly up the grey face left of Hard Trad Specialist.

The bolted line up the arete takes a few interesting twists and turns, has more than one crux and will keep you thinking if this is about your grade. Deserves a star.

Up the left face and into the overhung corner to gain the ledge, then stay right to keep it honest, don't join Baby Driver until the shared final bolt. Cams or wires may be useful between the 3rd and 4th bolt, or clip the far left bolt with a long sling. First ascent was without the 2nd bolt.

Follows the corner into the "over vertical" arete. Commonly covered in spider webs.

Traverse from far right up a series of ledges to the belay of Galaxy Grovel.

The right-most line of Galaxy wall. Shares the first bolt of Twinkle Twinkle, which then heads right to a last punchy move to access the anchor.

Climb the appealing left-curving hand/fist crack. An awkward move into the alcove, then up through the chocked blocks with care, to a DBC anchor.

Jam and layback the fist-to-offwidth crack to reach a large ledge, then jam the corner hand crack to a DBC belay.

Fist and off-width crack to an anchor at half height. Doesn't feel as short as it looks.

Zig-zagging fingertip to hand crack with a steep finish.

The bolted arête

The second pitch of this route and the top of the first was pushed off by a massive pine root in March 2019. RIP

Pitch 1: Climb the tight corner crack then move right and climb over the large blocks. Continue up the wide crack system then past 2 bolts (crux) and mantle onto belay ledge (DBC belay). Pitch 2: A difficult move off the belay ledge is followed by easier climbing past one bolt to DBC belay.

Start up the shallow corner then onto the face, pull over the small roof at the top to the DBC belay of 'Brass Monkey'. Useful to have 1 or 2 cams (green #0.75 to yellow #2) for the cracks in between 2nd & 3rd bolts.

5m metres further down the hill is a shallow right facing corner. Move left past the 2nd bolt & third bolts (crux) then climb up the engaging groove and rib to the bulge & corner. Pull through the bulge on side pulls & good holds then back into the groove. Up to flat ledge out left then climb the wall above, move right, then rock onto the sloping ledge to finish.

Originally named in honor of the English Rugby Victory over the All Blacks. Start up Stalemate to the 4th bolt. Pull left into the very shallow groove and follow this with difficulty past 4 bolts up a thin crack before stepping left onto small ledge. Pull back right onto the wall through small bulge and join the finish of Love Handle Expansion at it's 10th bolt. DBC belay of Love Handle Expansion. (First ascensionist had blinkers on and skipped the small ledge which makes it a bit harder)

The obvious rib, rib, shallow groove and corner system in the centre of the wall. Climb up the rib and move right into the shallow groove at the 5th bolt. Solve a thin, difficult crux sequence to reach a sloping ledge. Pull right into the corner section. Continue with thin, sustained climbing up the corner all the way to the top – awesome. Hard to on-sight at Gr27 but feels easier once solved.

Pull onto the ledge then climb the groove and arete above. The climb finishes at a Fixe Lower Off at half height.

Second pitch of 'Under the Thumb'. From the belay of Under the Thumb move back left and climb the hanging corner. Then move back right onto the belay ledge of Outside Edge.

Starts in the left facing corner. Hard starting moves then climb up the small groove above to the Fixe Lower Off at approximately half height.

From the first bolt move left into the corner, then move left onto the obvious arete. Gain the ledge then bridge up the corner above moving left past the roof then up to a rest. Continue up the wall above (crux) & go left of the roof to mantle onto a small ledge (40-60mm CAM for gear) then move back right onto belay ledge, Double Bolt Chain belay.

Start as for Rolling Stoppages to the third bolt then move left up to the ramp/corner. Hard moves up the corner till you gain the belay ledge of Rolling Stoppages. Climb up to the next slopping ledge, then finish up the hard corner to the Double Fixe Lower off.

Climb the face then move right onto the blunt arete and follow this to the 1/2 way ledge (shared with Industrial Action). Climb up the right hand side of the square arete on poor feet, tiny crimps/pockets & 1 good finger jug to a final dead point for the ledge and finish. (No bridging out right into the corner of “Industrial Action”) Note the fall going for the first top ledge is safe but best not to fall heading up the easy ground from here. Upgraded from 26 to 27 due to recent ascents feedback.

The corner and arete system just to the right of 'Rolling Stoppages'. Climb the lower crack section then continue up the wall on rounded holds. Once in the base of the obvious corner move right onto the arete. Climb the arete then pull onto the head wall (crux), move right again into the overhanging groove to a DUB belay.

Start just right of Industrial Action. Climb the small arete, move right at the third bolt to a hidden side pull. Up to a layaway then back left. Continue straight up through the bulges to join Route Rustlers at the foot ledge in the V groove. Finish up this.

A hard start past the first 2 bolts leads into a groove system which is then climbed gingerly up to the first small roof (with inverted V). Move left from here onto a small ledge just below the large roof. Step back to the right of the large roof, crux and the crack and groove out onto the arete above the roof and then move back left to the belay ledge. DRB belay.

Follow the groove and it's right arete past the first 4 bolts with the crux between the 3rd & 4th bolts. Bridge up the upper grove past 3 more bolts then move right under the overhang to gain the small belay ledge, just under the large roof.

Climb up the groove to the small roof, then step right and move out over the roof onto the face. A series of techical moves for the next 15m gets you to a small ledge and a decent rest. A further difficult move puts you up to the roof out right. Move back left then left and climb to the double bolt belay.

Start off the first board of the board walk. Either pop up off the board below the first bolt or, stem up the corner to the right to the second bolt. (Pre-clip). Climb the corner to ledge. Up the obvious layback to big flat hold then micro-corner above to traverse right at the 7th bolt on second horizontal. Follow the arete to join All Above Board at the 11th bolt. Finish up this. 4 long & varied bouldery/technical sections with rests in between.

A direct start to "All Above Board". Climb off the board walk up the tricky arete and through the small roof and tricky corner above.

1st Pitch: Climb the corner of Wet Under foot to the third bolt then traverse left past one more bolt left to a belay ledge & double belay 2nd Pitch: Move left into the groove, past the overhang (crux) and continue up the groove to the DUB belay

Start up All Above Board to the 4th bolt. Hard sequence up the thin crack and on to the face. Up this to a good ledge. Crux sequence up the steep arete. Pull left along the final sloping ledge and rock onto this to finish at the double ring belay. The grade is somewhat height dependent!

A hard start up the corner to easier climbing up a series of ledges. At the fifth bolt move left, across the tricky slab towards the corner. Move back right at the top of the short corner and climb the arete (1st crux) then up the corner to the roof. Move left around the roof and pull up into the groove above (2nd crux). Up this to the DBC belay.

Start as for Wet Under Foot, move right at the 2nd bolt onto the large ledge then climb up the easy ground out right. Climb the arete for a few meters then pull back left onto the face and move up the steep wall up to the roof. Surmount the roof then up the blank looking wall above

Belay as for Wet Under Foot, Pull into the corner out right. A hard start is followed by easier climbing, which moves right past a number of small ledges. Continue up the shallow corner, pull left onto the slab below the overlap. Climb over the overlap and up onto the head wall. Climb the wall & get established in the rounded groove above(crux). Bridge up the groove exiting slightly left at the top the DBC belay.

Climb the crack line to the Fixe lower off. [Pro Wire, CD)

Start at the same belay as Petit Theft. Climb up the wall past 3 bolts to the right of Petit Theft. Move left past the last bolt to the Fixe belay. Technical.

Starts at the Fixe Belay on the ledge 10m above Minor Misdemeanor/Petit Theft. Climb the tricky steepening wall to the roof. Hard moves through this to a "glory jug" and easier to the top. Done way back but never made the original Freeclimb guide. Very good but will need a reclean.

A tiny almost finger crack snakes its way up the wall. Shaun reckons it goes and has spent a while cleaning it, closed project until he confirms if it does or not.

The hand crack dominating the centre of the wall. A lot of work has gone into uncovering this masterpiece, please respect the effort by waiting until the route is declared open.

Follow the blunt arete on pockets until the bulge, then swing right through the bulge to the finger crack and jam to the ledge to belay. Closed Project.

Refael bolted this in the early days, then promptly abandoned it when he realised how ridiculously slaby it was. Now everyone just talks about doing it to claim it, but noone has quite got there yet. Open Project.

Bolted by Shaun Brown but abandoned as it wasn't attractive enough when the beer goggles wore off. Rafael took it over to make it an extension/2nd pitch of IWYBWTLAH. He subsequently had the same thoughts as Shaun and abandoned it for greener pastures above. Open Project.

With some badgering, a lot of scrubbing and even a little digging, Shaun once again claimed the first route of a wall (under Flogg FFA rules), freeing this awesome line up to half height of the wall. He left it mixed as the badgering only got him so motivated, so take a single rack for the broken crack.

Note the lowest bolt is for pontoon positioning, use at your own risk.

For the descent, either rap off the rings on the ledge, off the pit pine to the left, or climb up PIDLLT, maybe even claiming the first free ascent of that one at last.

Up the slab into the vertical, don't pump out before the rings. So named for the muppets Donovan keeps as company, although it is expected his siege of this will last longer even than his siege of Spurt at Froggatt.

Note the lowest bolt is for pontoon positioning, use at your own risk.

Descend as for Dragons.

Closed Project (for now).

Sam's first bolted route. It was looking easy until he was pressured into extending it higher. Closed project.

Bolted on lead, and if you played by Kawakawa rules it would be the first route of the wall. But it really doesn't count it's free. And it still isn't. Closed Project.

Technical climbing on small gear to the ledge at half height. Then punch it to the top up the splitter hand crack. Bolted anchor to left of crack before you hit the tree line.

The fixed rope rebelayed at the top of the obvious scoop feature. Note any bolts currently installed are temporary retrievable bolts, lead falls are not advised. Closed Project.

She's a little goey, and quite unique; some might even say visionary. Startup the corner with the rock pile at the bottom, then when the time is right step right onto the slab. Watch the top mantle, it's a heart breaker.

A grand line. Up the face on pockets then into the corner to an anchor under the big roof. Stays dry in light rain.

Closed Project.

Pitch 1 (16): Up the mossy green corner, escape right before the Flake of Doom to a stance and trad belay (#1-4 cams in belay).

Pitch 2 (21): Up the hand crack, ride top of flake of doom left to regain the corner. Up the tough thin corner into the pine tree. Classic.

Double Cams .3-3 and a 4 at least.

1. 15m (16) Same mushy green corner and traverse as "Agony in the Garden". Try to avoid using #2 and #3 cams when building your anchor, a high #4 is useful.

2. 25m (22) Continue up the handcrack, then traverse right to wrestle with the impressive leaning corner (.4-#3). If you make it, scuttle back left and up when the opportunity presents itself. The direct finish has not yet been climbed. Descent: Walk off, or rap off a fixed rope and carabiner anchor at the top (40m? with some tree shimmying?) Rack: At least double cams 0.3-3, one #4. Extra hand-sized pro would be nice.

Closed Project.

Cleaned, has anchors but bolts still to be finished. Open Project.

4 bolts to start, then trad from half height rest.

The first free ascent of Renaissance. The details of this and it's neighbour (Dacroona) were lost in the chaos of the COVID-19 crisis. Eventually Romain returned to the crag and enlightened everyone that there were some free routes.

The second free ascent of Renaissance, and again by the dirty hairy Frenchman. Bring your pocket game to get into the crack, then jam on up to the ledge and bolted belay above.