Ascensioni in Wānaka da John Pitcairn

Hardish start and balancy clipping, keeps you working.

A few dicky moves at 1/3 height but otherwise straightforward and fun. Don't put your gear in the finger locks. Friendly jams up top.

Meh.

One of the best grade 14 trad lines I have ever climbed. Good rock, excellent pro, compares very favourably to Arapiles.

Oops. Cocked up the moves off the pedestal and found myself back on it without weighting the rope. Counting that as a fall.

Much better. Managed to bang my head too. Thank you helmet.

Think this is new, not in the 2014 guide. Somebody is being cheap, could use another bolt or 2 at the grade. There is another new route to the right starting on the stepped ledges.

Not sure whether we were on this or Climb Into The Unknown. A hard start and some decent climbing after, but very poor bolting means you are looking at a groundfall from the crux between bolts 1 and 2, be careful, do not high clip bolt 2, belayer pay close attention. Grant came off...

Easier than it looks, good bridging, plenty of gear. The 2 bolts at the top are totally unneccesary and should be chopped, there is adequate gear right next to them.

Aesthetic thin crack that screams "climb me". Small but bomber gear, and the top is not runout if you have the right gear.

There's perfectly decent gear all the way with a miniscule runout to the anchor. Crux getting out of the crack and over the lip. Solid 16 or soft 17?

Not sure on the grade so top roped it first. Shouldn't have.

Draws on. Unmemorable.

First pitch is a fun trad crack, just clip the first bolt to protect the start. The other bolts in reach are for other routes. P2/3 fully bolted, Allen ran them together. Third pitch easy and rather exposed. A grand new years day outing with Allen and Graham.

Enjoyable enough. Grant led it first.

A bit of a sit at the 2nd or 3rd piece before angling right. Should have toughed it out. There is plenty of gear low down.

Was aiming for Self Directed Learning Tool, placing gear, but took the (somewhat) cleaner exit. Really grubby at the top.

Nice bridging in the chimney until halfway. Exit before the roof and move right then up, whereupon it starts to feel like some old Arapiles classic.