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Very nice.

Start: Immediately right of 'Bullet Buttress'. A steep wall leads to a baby chimney, then up easily and step left into BB.

Step R from cave to ledge. Then up corner or nose, both with poor pro.

Start: Start as for 'Cricket Bats in a Box'.

This baby offwidth was possibly first climbed by Bob Craddock.

The left-most deep crack on the roadside face.

Impossible to get lost on.

Starts above the plaque on the north-west side of the crag. It's the obvious wide chimney, that narrows to a crack near the top.

Up a shallow orange corner left of Prairie, continue direct through steepening and onward forth to walk off ledge. May have some suss rock, vegetation and lichen.

Corner with ledge at half-height on south-east facing wall around left from 'Serious Young Lizards'.

Completes the trilogy of nice easy climbs in this area. Think of it as an indirect start to 'Predator'. Step off the 'Mesa' boulder and head up right to the airy arete. Continue steeply over the right side of the roof and up juggy groove to ledge. The 'Mesa' rap anchor is just to the left.

The squeeze chimney. 'Classic'. Start R of T.

Deep crack on left side of Conifer Crack buttress, in the gully. Take some large gear.

Very entertaining. Just be aware that at times you have to climb on large apparently detached blocks. Start 1 metre left of where the the big dead tree was until last Friday (i.e. left-hand crack on front of buttress).

1. 40m (9) Slabby thin crack on left side of buttress to ledge. Step right and pull through bulge then straight up to huge ledge.

2. 40m (9) Behind are twin V cracks up the right side of the buttress. It is usual to move straight up from the ledge and then move across right and climb the right-hand crack but either crack is OK. An optional third pitch is to climb the blade of rock at the end of the second pitch.

This is quite a good chimney and the rap anchor lets you avoid the cruddy finish. Start below the next buttress right of the Didgeridoo Pipe. Scramble up 6 metres into the gully on the left of the buttress then traverse right until below the chimney. Climb up into the chimney and follow it (originally climbed up the left edge of the chimney for a bit) past the roof on the left. Belay on left about 5 metres above the roof at chains. 30 metre abseil or continue up crud to the top.

Start at base of mossy ramp and follow left sloping crack 2 1/2 metres left of 'Ann', Finish up left face of the bulge

Start at mossy ramp as for 'Falling Upwards'. Move right at top of ramp to join large obvious crackline.

Up, then L on ledges. Finish up black crack in upper L wall.

Start: Start 1 m R of 'Strife on the Gravy Train'.

Bottomless crack 3m R of Charity at the R crack.

Climb the crack, step left on to face and up.

Start: Scramble up past 'Treachery' to next buttress.

A separate buttress 15m right of Purity and 3m right of Clemency. Climb the most left hand line. (Most likely same buttress as Heatherbell ). A low angled climb with the crux being the first moves off the ground on grey rock. Requires RPs to protect the initial moves,

The major skanky diagonal cleft.

Start on the L wall, then the R. Bridge airily to an awkward and runout finish L around the roof. Start on the next buttress uphill from Morfydd, at a chimney with a square roof.

Probably the most descended route at Arapiles (by abseilers using Ali's rap anchor). May also be the least ascended. Start 5m L of Ali's.

1. 24m (8) Follow Phoenix for 8 metres to thread runner then out right and up past all 'Highway' 8 sign to shallow corner. Up to ledge.

2. 25m (9) Gain the line just to the right and up to crawl through hole to ledge.

3. 30m (9) Traverse 6 metres left to crack and up this to big ledge.

4. 20m (8) Walk 12 metres left and up tricky wall to right end of Flinders Lane.

Sit start and mantle the small bloc right side and opposite NE face.

Same sit start position as Tiger Tail Left moving right and up.

Quality mantle sitting start at overhanging rear section of bloc between detached block and small tree moving up and left.

Orange streak 10 metres right of 'Blockwork Orange'. Finish up crack in headwall.

Clean black slab right of 'Heckle'.

Useless. Twin cracks 5 metres left of Trampled Underfoot.

Nice line and rock but still a little shrubby. From the top of this it is a short scramble to the base of 'Mentor' so Kermit/Mentor/The Protege could provide an interesting outing.

Start: Start 30 m L of 'Wedding Tackle'.

A wonderful long classic, climbed at the same time as Introductory Route. A remarkably well-conceived line, it culminates in a magnificent final corner.

Start as for Introductory Route, on the right side of the Tiptoe Ridge buttress, about 10 metres right of a major corner (Ordinary Trees), where two detached blocks are sitting just off the ground. There's an overhang about 6 metres up and a large dead tree marking the top of the pitch.

1. 25m (4) Up the wall, passing the overhang on the left, then up to the dead tree, as for the first pitch of Introductory Route.

2. 35m (8) Move right and up a little crack then follow prominent right-leading diagonal to a spectacular ledge on the arete. Note that the climb originally climbed the latter part of this pitch out right near the arete, now included in the second pitch of Xena.

3. 35m (8) A mildly terrifying step across the void leads to easy climbing diagonally right. A few tricky moves then lead to a comfortable ledge below the big corner, with DRB.

4. 25m (6) Up corner to next ledge or carry on up the next pitch.

5. 25m (9) Up corner which finishes with a few rounded layback moves, then continue up little wall and belay on terrace.

From here either walk off left along terrace and scramble up little gully and wall to top or climb little right-facing corner just left of final belay. This is grade 11.

Follows the chimney-corner bounding the left edge of the left Watchtower face after starting up Hot Flap's first pitch, then the chimney-gully forming the left side of the Siren buttress.

A truly great climb up the middle of the Watchtower. Many variants are possible, especially in the middle section; yes they have already been climbed. Start up the right-hand of the two deep cracks at the base of The Watchtower. This is just left of the undercut section (Pumping), and 9m R of Watchtower Chimney.

1. (40m, 8) Up deep crack until it ends. Traverse 4 metres right, up over disconcerting bulge and follow crack to large ledge. (The first ascent traversed all the way to the right arete before climbing bulge).

2. (21m, 8) Either climb up left of the belay or climb just right of the crack until below bulge and then step left over the crack. Belay on narrow ledge below overhang on left side of The Watchtower.

3. (14m, 9) Either climb straight up veering slightly right, or traverse right on smooth rock past ancient piton before moving right. Belay in a good cave on the right side of the buttress.

4. (30m, 8) Move left out of cave and up exhilarating wall to top. Prearrange your signals as communication is likely to be impossible from the top.

A very popular variant on Arachnus, but more serious because of the poorly protected section on pitch three.

1. 40m (8) Arachnus p1.

2. 12m (8) Up smooth wall just right of crack, traverse right, then up to small ledge below juggy crack through overhang.

3. 23m (9) Up crack, then balance carefully right (poor protection) for 4 metres. More easily up to cave belay.

4. 30m (8) Arachnus p4.

A great adventure.

Start below major chimney on left side of cliff.

Note that numerous variants are possible, and have been done, from the middle of pitch 3 to the terrace at the end of pitch 4.

1. 50m (9) Up wall then chimney to terrace.

2. 13m (9) Just to the right is a short, right-facing corner. Up this and step right to belay.

3. 18m (9) Up righthand V-corner to roof. Move left under roof then step right and up to ledge.

4. 25m (9) 'Diagonal' up right (as for Tale Of Woe) to huge terrace.

5. 30m (7) Pull onto wall right of undercut arete, traverse right and go up on horizontal breaks approximately 6 metres right of arete. At ledge, move left and up. The fingery wall just right of the arete is Court Jester's finish.

A popular outing following the prominent diagonal line. Not really sure that it warrants a star though.

1. 30m (8) Follow the major left-leading diagonal from the terrace until it ends. Belay on ledge past first little cave.

2. 25m (9) Diagonally right, passing large roofs on the right, finishing over a little bulge.

3. 30m (7) As for the final pitch of 'Beau Geste'.

Crack 3 metres right of Max is also quite good.

Delightful doddle.

Start: Start just right of 'Stone Age' up to right leaning flake

Strenuous for the grade but has great jugs. The Shepherd guide description for Menagerie followed this line but the original Menagerie description clearly places it further right. Start at top of rise behind the largest conifer (?same place as Heavy Petting).

Start right of largest conifer. Short red groove, traverse right then up to left-facing corner. Up corner and exit left.

Shabby left wall of broken corner immediately left of 'Winterset'. 'Contrived' up middle of slab to finish just left of roof.

Doesn't look much but has easy climbing on superb rock. Start as for Youth In Asia.

1. 15m (8) Climb up a couple of metres to join the traverse-line of The Bishop's Crook and move right and up the wall to ledge as for that climb.

2. 25m (9) Follow the easy ramp on the right for about 10 metres until below the first direct line of weakness. Go straight up the steep wall.

Traverse left and up through a wide crack.

Start: Start 5 metres up and right of "Armageddon" at initials "HB"

Chimney-crack 2 metres left of "Prelate".

Face 1 metre left of 'The Priest'

The crack at the left end of the wall has a tricky move at half-height.

Start: Start 5 metres left of "Deacon's Dilemma".

Good rock. Takes the prominent prow 30 metres down left of Mason's Apron. There's a small, chipped mark near the ground.

1. 27m (10) Either climb the ramp from the right, or direct up a tricky seam to a small ledge under the overhang. Go 3 metres left then gain main, left-facing corner and go up.

2. 8m (5) Romp to the top.

Short, orange corner 15m L of 'Little Ripper', then L to grey, L-facing corner. Up this to tree.

Start in the centre of the pinnacle up and left of Zorba, about 3 metres left of Leprechaun. Up the face just right of the corner to big horizontal then up central crack. Roped scramble off back necessary.

Takes the major right-facing corner that starts from the ledge 25 metres up the cliff.The first pitch is rubbish but the corner is superb. Originally graded 9.

1. 25m (-) Ascend rubbishy face to ledge below corner.

2. 25m (11) The excellent right-facing corner with a tough start.

Summerday-style classic. Six metres right of 'Ghoulies'. Juggy line with the left kink at the end.

Five metres left of the chimney. A nice short corner to a ledge. 'Escape' off right or thrutch up a wide crack to top.

The obvious big line where the track meets the cliff. Up the juggy left wall, near the top step across the chimney to a ledge and finish up a short steep corner. FA Unknown

Good fun and surprisingly exposed. Take 5 or 6 slings. Start just R of 'Fungal Fantasies'. Head up slightly R to climb the "mushrooms" on the wall just L of the scoop, move a bit L to finish.

Nice and long for these parts.

Start: Initialled corner a few m R of 'Cypress'.

1. 12m (9) Up corner to the ledge. The variant moves R at the flake then up the wall (15).

2. 12m (9) The crack on the L.

Like most easy routes on 'Central Buttress' this is an excellent introductory toprope problem for beginners.

Start: Start down the L end of 'Back Wall'.

1. 25m. Follows as for the start of “Any Day Now”; up to small scoop, ledge- belay here.

2. 20m. Up main headwall to below top of wall.

3. 15m. Step right across big chimney, up small wall tending right to summit. Very loose and fragile rock,

The obvious corner above the ledge at the right hand end of Cradle Wall. Some people may wish to rope up to access this ledge.

Nice easy jug climbing. Michael and Kevin must have needed a rest day after doing all the other hard routes in the area!

Start: 'Access' is a bit of a pain and possibly the crux! Start perhaps 10-15m left of Bay Of Pigs by scrambling along the large ledge then follow it left and up to its continuation. Beginners might want to rope up for this traverse.

No bolt ladders here. Good fun jugging with good gear on good rock, may even be worth a second star? Start around 20m left of Bad Moon Rising's corner. Up the mega jugs on the left side of the smooth grey wall for about 15m, tending right up jugs to blank looking wall. Traverse left approx 5m until decent holds appear, straight up through gap heading right of small black chimney up face on good holds to top.

“Stillborn” – an aborted attempt on the wall, abandoned due to weather but written up either as an easy single-pitch route or for someone to finish later. About 50m right of Wacko Jacko there is a triangular boulder about 2m high, standing about 3m from the cliff, with a left-facing corner high above. Start here. Up 8m to a bolt, then continue up to a ledge and over easy ground to another steepening (bolt) then to a good ledge with two rings and a third hangerless bolt. Pro can be found in pockets with a rack of small to medium cams. Rap off.

Classic - if you enjoy the beach. Gain the ledge on the R then move back left to the wide crack. Up the wide crack and then the buttress above on good holds.

The next block R of the Suez Crisis block. Start up L arête just R of wide crack/gully separating the two blocks. Up to and up juggy flake to easy angled section, finish up short wide crack to summit. Descend down the North side of the block, possibly roped up.

Climb the toe of the buttress 10m right of Audax. Climb past the the left side of the cave to join the last section of Audax.

50m left of US at first break in roof. Wandering and probably loose and filthy. A fine choice for the first route at Bundaleer.

One of the few worthwhile aid routes in the Grampians, with a huge roof at the very top of the cliff. It is written up with the direct start, which is the best way to do the climb.

The original start (two pitches) came in to the base of pitch four from 45 metres up the gully to the right via mostly easy climbing and a few aid bolts.

It is likely that significant sections of the lower pitches could be freed relatively easily. Using 60 metre ropes could help to run the lower four pitches into two giving a significant time saving on the approach to the roof. Head torches have been found useful in the past. Take 2 bat-hooks and 11 hangers.

The climb is about 750 metres from where the main walking track is left, with the final 400 metres being relatively slow. Expect to take between 45 minutes to an hour-and-a-half from the car with packs.

Start: Below the obvious line leading to the huge roof at the top of the cliff about 150 metres left of 'Burning Daylight' (400 metres left of Big Chimney). Scramble about 10m up onto a block.

1. 27m (- M4) Move left and up incipient groove to ledge. BB on right.

2. 40m (12 M3) Step up right (BR) and then left to the foot of a crack. Free up the crack, switching to aid when necessary. Finish with some bolts then free to a big ledge.

3. 10m (-) Step right and up to next ledge.

4. 27m (- M3) The crack, mostly aid, to below the roof.

5. 15m (- M4) The thin crack in the outrageously exposed roof.

What can you say? It's a big chimney, a major geological feature. The second pitch is truly awesome. Most modern climbers will find the crux to be the poorly protected chimney sections rather than the well-protected first pitch. This has traditionally been graded 9 but, as with many old Rosea routes, it is much harder than routes of that grade at 'Arapiles'.

Start: Find the landmark chimney, about 60 metres left of 'Dinosaur Gully', 20 metres left of 'Rameses'. There are faint initials BC on the left wall but if you need these to positively identify the climb you should go home.

1. 24m (11) Up the line to an awkward bulge at 6 metres. There's an ancient peg runner here but good wires just below and a large cam (#4 Camalot just works but #4.5 would be better) makes it redundant. From the stance above pull up the unlikely little arete on the right. Jugs and a finger crack lead back into the line above the grunge. Up to a cool belay behind the huge chockstone.

2. 22m (11) Chimney straight up from the chockstone. When the chimney widens slightly move in to a thread belay.

3. 24m (11) Still more chimney to the next chockstones. A recent ascent climbed up to the outside of the chockstones but this was quite insecure until a U-bolt was encountered just below the chockstones. Possibly more secure to climb this section deeper in the chimney. Now easily up to the terrace.

4. 30m (11) Chimney on the right of the terrace. This does not look very hard but protection is almost non-existent. Alternatively, climb the wall immediately right of this chimney, pitch 3 of 'Crocks Direct', grade 15.

A very indirect start to a major line. Originally the third pitch was considered the crux but, as with so many of these old routes, some horror-show unprotected chimney sections went totally unremarked. Perhaps modern climbers are just wimps.

Start: Start at the large flake-crack as for 'Rameses'.

1. 27m (9) The flake-crack past a tree and under the chockstone to another tree.

2. 21m (9) Traverse left across wall, move around arete, cross a scrubby corner and belay on a ledge below a small roof.

3. 9m (10) Climb the corner, passing the roof on the left.

4. 33m (10) The pleasant crack to the terrace. A pointless ring-bolt and chain will be encountered as some point.

5. 30m (11) The very poorly protected chimney on right (last pitch of Big Chimney) to the next terrace. Scramble off up a gully on the left.

The left of two lines at left of middle cliff