Ascensioni in Fangatave Beach

Rushed ascent in a 3 after getting to the crag the long way around via the beach. Some pitching and some moving together. Overall an amazing adventure, but we were limited with time so had to rush through the easy stuff and get out for a pre-arranged pick up.

The first pitch is a very nice climb. I was a bit tired after three days of hiking around Eua to various crags, so made use of the plentiful rests We didn't climb the second pitch because we weren't doing any multi-pitch this trip.

Warm up

Follow the crack/flake arete, with jugs all around. Really nice climb

Sort of a boulder-y start but super easy with grippy jugs. Goes left onto the face and then traverse right. Nice ledges to rest on along the way. If you don't have a nice jug, just keep moving and you will find one

Easy fun flake at the start, followed by slight overhang sustained to anchors (past the tree branch brushing the rock). There is a full body jam just before the pumpy part for a hands-free rest and plenty of juggy pockets though. A bit slopey pulling up to anchor but hidden pockets. Beautiful long, fun climb! ♡

First introduction to 'Eua climbing. Nice climbing to the right after access pitch. Nice to have an overhang feel so easy because of great holds and rests

'Eua climbing! Nice cave and view from the anchors at the top of this one.

Fun little route up a squeeze chimney if you want and onto a nice juggy arete to a grassy ledge with a big cave and lovely sea view just before the anchor

First pitch interesting path moving left across the blind part. Second pitch tough onsight finding the best holds and clipping the DBB

long and varied, goes to Cosmos anchors. Could use a separate lower anchor for direct toproping and cleaning, above current midway anchor, but in alcove right above line.

just lots of jugs through moderate terrain

toproped direct line into third bolt at about 20. And possibly easier line staying left until about bolt 5 at <18. otherwise, a good feature.

sharp, but crisp, not too hard actually

climbing right of second bolt makes it easier, but still challenging through low crux, and hanging on up top.

quality of rock seems mungy/wet. hard long moves at start and bolting a bit high on first bolt, hard to clip 3rd.

Climbed using jugs on arete right of bolts, otherwise it would be more full on through the middle part. Starts with some jugs up past the first bolt, but in your face immediately to the second, which is a bit high. cruxy to the third bolt, but plenty of pump remaining for the top half of the first pitch. Didn't do the second pitch

Sandbag of a climb. I reckon the first assessment of this route is more accurate. Arguably around a grade 20/21, not 18.

Bolting choices detract from the climbing. first bolt too low, ledge fall potential mid route, awkward position for 1st anchor, Good stone on second pitch is a saving grace. Did not climb the 3rd pitch.

straightforward climbing up the right side of the feature with some possibly reachy moves among the first few bolts. The face climbing mid-way up was thoughtful and leads into the black groove at the top which is dirty but reasonable. Nice ledge for bringing up the second, but bolted well for toproping with a 60m.