A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
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Table of contents
- 1.
Dyviksudd
153 in Crag
- 1.1. Gibbon 27 in Sector
- 1.2. Kokoskorvsväggen 9 in Sector
- 1.3. Apocalyps 25 in Sector
- 1.4. No more heroes 58 in Sector
- 1.5. Lord Hård 27 in Sector
- 1.6. Lilla dyviksväggen 7 in Sector
- 2. Index by grade
1. Dyviksudd 153 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Arrampicata trad, Arrampicata sportiva e altri stili
Lat / Long: 59.192093, 18.406434
sommario
One of the best crags around Stockholm. Trad, sport and mix.
descrizione
Old online topo (Not just Ice): http://www.sverigeforaren.se/dyviksudd-isklattring/
limitazioni per l'accesso
http://access.bergsport.se/dyviksudde/
In or just next to Dyvik lövängars nature reserve. Keep low profile.
avvicinamento
Parking at the designated parking at the gate to the nature reserve and boat club.
1.1. Gibbon 27 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Arrampicata trad e Arrampicata sportiva
Lat / Long: 59.194228, 18.406617
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | 100 grader | FR:6c | ||||||
| 2 | Zanzibar | FR:7a+ | ||||||
| 3 | Zanzibar direct | FR:6c | ||||||
| 4 |
Gibbon
FA: Christer Åstrand, 1978 | FR:6b | ||||||
| 5 | Club Piraya | FR:6c+ | 7m | |||||
| 6 | Taklagsöl | FR:7a | 7m | |||||
| 7 | Sir Mör | FR:7c | 7m | |||||
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 8 |
Gravitera mera
Avvertimento Attrezzatura fissa: Bad bolts Short, steep on jugs. | FR:7a | ||||||
| 9 | Eternell | FR:7a | ||||||
| 10 | Längtan | FR:6a+ | 5m | |||||
| 11 | Laybackhörnet | FR:6a+ | ||||||
| 12 | American flyer | FR:6a+ | ||||||
| 13 |
Boren av behag
Very old bolts. | FR:7a | 12m, 4 | |||||
| 14 |
Kult
Very old bolts. | FR:7a+ | 13m, 2 | |||||
| 15 | Orion | FR:6c | 10m, 1 | |||||
| 16 |
Smerson et partners
Very old bolts | FR:7a | 10m, 2 | |||||
   |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 17 | ★★★ Hörnet | {FR} 4+ | 12m | |||||
| 18 | Nageltrånget | 6 | 6m | |||||
| 19 | Vänsterprassel | {FR} 6 | 12m | |||||
| 20 |
★★ Maja
Very difficult start, harder than the grade itself. Two #1 rocks secures the start after the very tricky overhang start (not using the tree). Once under the first roof you get 1-2 bomber aliens (green & white). Thereafter, you can protect every inch, if you like,while jamming/laybacking. FA: Torbjörn Berg & Kenneth Lindström, 1974 | {FR} 6 | 12m | |||||
| 21 |
★ Alpinisten
FA: Christer Åstrand, 1978 | {FR} 6+ | 14m | |||||
| 22 |
★★★ Fingerkroken
An excellent climb with tricky but ok protection of the crux. Beware of the name "Fingerkroken" equals Fingerhook, when going for the crux. | {FR} 6 | 14m | |||||
| 23 | ★★★ Fingerkroken - variation | {FR} 5 | 14m | |||||
| 24 |
Mina kulor - din haka
Very old bolts FA: Daniel Bidner | FR:7b+ | 14m, 2 | |||||
| 25 |
Finn din stil
Old bolts | FR:7b | 14m, 2 | |||||
| 26 |
Clawfinger
FA: Johan Luhr, 2008 | FR:7c | 14m | |||||
| 27 | Marillion | FR:7c+ | ||||||
1.2. Kokoskorvsväggen 9 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Tutti Arrampicata trad
Lat / Long: 59.193625, 18.406417
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★ Dyrbar fritid
FFA: 1983 | 6 | 27m | |||
| 2 | Motorburen ungdom | FR:6b | ||||
| 3 | Brutal konfekt | FR:6c | ||||
| 4 | Tights | FR:6a+ | ||||
| 5 |
★ Kokoskorven
FFA: 1984 | 6+ | 23m | |||
| 6 | Sandinista | FR:6c | ||||
| 7 | Kamikaze | FR:6b | ||||
| 8 | Minos | FR:6b | ||||
| 9 |
Just ask
FA: Harri Sporrevik | {FR} 5a | 20m | |||
1.3. Apocalyps 25 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Arrampicata trad e Arrampicata sportiva
Lat / Long: 59.192762, 18.406217
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Till en god vän | FR:5c | ||||
| 2 | Äppelkaka | 6 | 7m | |||
| 3 | Bad | FR:4c | ||||
| 4 |
Romans
FFA: 1987 | 6+ | 10m | |||
| 5 | True romance | FR:6c | ||||
| 6 | Redo | FR:7a | 1 | |||
| 7 |
Reptilen
FA: Anders Lundahl | FR:7c+ | ||||
| 8 |
★★★ Zorro
Video beta - Erik Massih climbing FA: Johan Luhr | FR:8a | ||||
| 9 |
★ Räven
Link up. Start in 'Kosmos kid' and finish in 'Reptilen' | FR:7b | ||||
| 10 |
★★ Kosmos kid
FA: Johan Luhr & Rikard Hedman | FR:7c+ | ||||
| 11 |
★ Green Hornet
FA: Johan Luhr | FR:7c | ||||
| 12 | Kilroy Alternative | FR:7c+ | ||||
| 13 |
★★★ Kilroy
FA: Anders Lundahl | FR:7c+ | ||||
| 14 |
★★ Human torch
https://vimeo.com/185481863?fbclid=IwAR13YW7AXzg69ZemJN1nUI5a61aqegbyh5DjR1kufyOuAgerHZy4G6i5ryI FA: Johan Luhr | FR:7c+ | ||||
| 15 |
★ Moon Knight
FA: Scott Mooney, 2021 | FR:7c | ||||
| 16 |
★ Drax Now
Start in Drax and exit in 'Apocalypse Now' Partly bolted. | FR:8a | ||||
| 17 |
★ Drax
FA: Johan Luhr | FR:7c | ||||
| 18 |
Apocalypse Now
FA: Erik Massih & Jonas Paulsson | FR:7b | ||||
| 19 |
Apocalyps
FA: Christer Åstrand, 1979 | FR:6b+ | ||||
| 20 | Asers hangel | FR:6b | ||||
| 21 | Apunkalypse | FR:6a+ | ||||
| 22 | ★★ Fingersprickan | {FR} 5b | 10m | |||
| 23 | Kök | FR:5c | ||||
| 24 | Mantelhooken | FR:6b | ||||
| 25 | Mirage | FR:6b | ||||
1.4. No more heroes 58 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Arrampicata trad, Arrampicata sportiva e Arrampicata aid
Lat / Long: 59.191635, 18.405994
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | P B Arkebuserad | FR:6b | ||||||
| 2 | På tidens brant | FR:6c+ | ||||||
| 3 | Solkatt | FR:7a | ||||||
| 4 | Post Pinus | FR:7b | ||||||
| 5 | Lockdown | FR:7c+ | ||||||
| 6 | Dr Mabuses hämnd | FR:6b | ||||||
| 7 |
Navigare
Renovated. | FR:7a | 2 | |||||
| 8 | Sly | 3 | ||||||
  |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 9 |
Pavanne
A rusty piton, a very old bot and some small gear. | FR:6a | 1 | |||||
| 10 | ★★ No more heroes | FR:6a+ | 25m | |||||
| 11 | Early warning | FR:7a+ | ||||||
| 12 | Kapten Luhr | FR:7c+ | 3 | |||||
| 13 | Pol | FR:6c | 1 | |||||
| 14 | Pot | FR:6c | ||||||
| 15 | Besserwisser | FR:5b | ||||||
| 16 |
★ Rose comple
Avvertimento Attrezzatura fissa: Very old and rusty bolts. | FR:6c | ||||||
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 17 | Namnlös | FR:5a | ||||||
| 18 |
★★ Monsieur Ballayr
Rebolted 2019 | FR:7a | 4 | |||||
| 19 | A-has | FR:7a | ||||||
| 20 | Admiral Hornblower | FR:7a+ | ||||||
| 21 | Fingerkrossen | FR:6c | ||||||
| 22 | Critical metals | FR:7c | ||||||
| 23 |
★★ Punx not dead
FA: Hannes Puman, 2021 | FR:8a+ | ||||||
| 24 | Gyllene tider | FR:7a | ||||||
| 25 | 1000 punxs | AID:A4 | ||||||
| 26 | Sällskapsresan | FR:5a | ||||||
| 27 |
★ Sällskapsresan_
Follow the deep offwidth crack/chimney using the left small crack for protection. | {FR} 4c | 12m | |||||
| 28 |
Straffa stygga sopsäckar
On the high ledge. | FR:6b+ | ||||||
| 29 |
Grädde på moset
On the high ledge. | FR:6a | ||||||
| 30 | Död åt alla | FR:7a+ | ||||||
| 31 | Tredje stenen från solen | AID:A2 | ||||||
| 32 | Stentrick | FR:6a | ||||||
  |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 33 |
Heroes for one day
FA: Tiziano Buccella, 2019 | FR:8a | ||||||
| 34 | Ingemars kamin | FR:6a+ | ||||||
| 35 |
★ Italo disco
FA: Nils Winell, 2019 | FR:6c+ | ||||||
| 36 | Halvhård | AID:A1+ | ||||||
| 37 | Jesus i betong | FR:6c+ | ||||||
| 38 | Bidrags-Jesus (min bäste vän) | FR:6b+ | ||||||
| 39 |
Degrees of freedom
FA: Martin Ott | FR:7a+ | 17m | |||||
| 40 |
Laser-Jesus
Renovated 2021 | FR:7a | ||||||
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 41 |
★ Tisdag i regnet
Söndag i sängen utan escape FA: Southbeach, 22 Ago 2023 | {FR} 8a+ | ||||||
| 42 |
★★ Söndag i sängen
FA: Martin Ott, 2021 | FR:8a | ||||||
| 43 |
?
Project. Direct start La Onda | |||||||
| 44 |
★★ La onda
FA: Nils Winell, 2019 | FR:7b+ | ||||||
| 45 |
★★ Waves
Fully bolted 2018 FA: Anders Lundahl & Eva Selin, 1987 | FR:6c+ | 6 | |||||
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 46 |
★★ Livets pussel
Maybe 6c if using the corner and the right wall. About 7a of only climbing on the left wall. FA: Martin Ott, 2019 | FR:6c | 7 | |||||
| 47 | Vi accelererar | 5 | ||||||
| 48 |
★★ Captain Cook
Rebolted and cleaned 2019. Be careful when clipping 3rd bolt. | FR:7a+ | ||||||
| 49 | Fredsmäklaren (with aid start) | FR:7b+ | ||||||
| 50 | ★★ Festen har börjat | FR:7c | ||||||
| 51 | Hjärndöd | AID:A2+ | ||||||
| 52 | Jag är död | AID:A2 | ||||||
| 53 | Bladerunner | AID:A2+ | ||||||
| 54 | Qvinna av idag | FR:6b | ||||||
| 55 | 6a+ | FR:6b | ||||||
| 56 |
A bunch of angels and some other shit
Now climbed free as Kungsleden | |||||||
| 57 |
La Verdonesque
Starts on the wall above the big roof FA: Rasmus Johansson, 2019 | FR:7a | ||||||
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 58 |
Kungsleden
FA: Stefan Petterson, 2018 | FR:8b+ | 30m, 11 | |||||
1.5. Lord Hård 27 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Arrampicata sportiva, Arrampicata trad e altri stili
Lat / Long: 59.190809, 18.406200
   |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★★★ I Scottlinjen / Scottlinjen
FA: Scott Mooney | FR:8b+ | ||||||
| 2 | Long John | FR:7c+ | ||||||
| 3 | Kalkylerad fisk | FR:7a+ | ||||||
| 4 | Inga vargar jagar mig | FR:7b+ | ||||||
| 5 | Fly and die | AID:A3+ | ||||||
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 6 | Freedonia | FR:7b | ||||||
| 7 | ★★★ Fantasia | FR:7c | ||||||
| 8 | Ut i det fria | FR:7b | ||||||
| 9 | ★★ Uti det fria, sport version | FR:7b+ | ||||||
| 10 | Lord Hård | FR:7b+ | ||||||
| 11 | Mamma mia | FR:7b+ | ||||||
  |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 12 |
Goddag yxskaft
Name as aid climb "Utan Gammeldansk" (A2) FA: 1982 FFA: 1984 | 8- | 16m | |||||
| 13 | 99 ballonger | FR:7b | ||||||
| 14 |
Med kritpåsen i bakluckan
Partly bolted | FR:7a+ | ||||||
| 15 |
★ Utan pardon
Fully bolted 2016 | FR:7a+ | ||||||
| 16 | ★★ Renässans | FR:6c+ | ||||||
  |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 17 | ★★ Tyresö express | FR:6c+ | ||||||
| 18 | Presstopp | FR:6c | ||||||
| 19 | ★ Orgier på personaltoaletten | FR:6b | ||||||
| 20 | ★ Ryggskottlinjen | FR:6b | ||||||
| 21 |
★ Dr Johanssons menisktest
Close to 'Ryggskottslinjen' after the crux. | FR:6b+ | ||||||
| 22 | Sommar utan slut | FR:6b | ||||||
| 23 | Fackgäss | FR:6b | ||||||
| 24 | Skola - arbete - död | FR:6c+ | ||||||
| 25 |
Peters princip A nice complex problem
FA: Martin Ott, 2021 | FR:7c | 3 | |||||
| 26 | Adventisten | FR:6c | ||||||
| 27 | Snutslakt | FR:6a+ | ||||||
1.6. Lilla dyviksväggen 7 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Tutti Arrampicata trad
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Imse vimes spindel | FR:6a | ||||
| 2 |
Little Britain
Solo, 7+, E4 6a http://crackoholic.blogspot.com/2008/02/ntligen.html FA: Jonas Paulsson | FR:6a UK:E4 | ||||
| 3 | Crank, catch or disappear | FR:6c | ||||
| 4 | Avskaffa paragraf fetma | FR:6b | ||||
| 5 | Djungelboken | FR:6a | ||||
| 6 | Faxa mig en yuppinalle | FR:6b | ||||
| 7 | U2 | FR:6a | ||||
