Crazy Horse Guide

Bouldery and powerful start.

Bouldery and powerful start and a great thin slab section. Bit of a squeeze job, but none the less, a great line! Hardest route at the lower sector of Heart Wall.

Enjoyable pumpy climbing on good rock all the way to the top. Quick link lower offs.

Great line for the grade and a stunning pump fest to the top from the half way point.

Cool climbing on great rock. The big flake is a wonderful feature and super knee bar friendly no matter your size.

Awesome technical climbing at the grade with a lovely decision for all at the lip.....do I go left or right?

Very unique climbing for the grade on a great clump of rock. Unusual indeed.

It climbs ok and it's a bit of fun.

Fun to play on for the grade.

Technical crux cross through with a delightful finish. Worth the effort!

Stunning climbing all the way to the anchors. It really doesn't get more enjoyable than this. Get on it!

Powerful climbing on steep terrain. As the name says "Decide".

Tough and short with a balancy committing finish. Little runout with a dodgy fall possibility. Pull hard youngsters.

Its all there, you just need to find it all. Good climbing.

Very unusual rock with a nice little touch of "Weird" attached. Have Fun!

Technical thrutchy start then you're off and running........and you will be....Impressed.

Absolutely stunning for the grade. Varied and powerful in spots.

This is the best at the grade in the area. Simply stunning climbing all the way to the top. The route can be climbed with 60m rope, it has an anchor at 20m (just over the big tufa).

Sleep climbing through tufas, with a powerful pull over the lip to balancy stance a little way above your last bolt.....hence the name.

Great climbing on beautiful rock. Go for the onsight!

Super bouldery and thrutchy from the ground to the anchors. Do if that sort of thing suits you.

Go and go left and then left again and up and then up again. First anchor at 22 metres, then final anchor at 25 metres. Great route. Pain to clean.

Nice varied climbing for the grade. Short but value packed. Quick links at the anchors.

Great fun climbing with a sting in the tail. Pull hard for the on-sight.

Super fun, super easy and all the way to the top. Sometime you even get monkeys at the anchors trying to steal your quick draws. Take a spare if you're the second on the route. You have been warned.

5 bolts and 2 threads.

8 bolts and 2 threads.

8 bolts and 1 thread.

9 bolts and 1 thread.

8 bolts and 1 thread.

A four pitch climb that starts on the left face of the cave after walking in from the lower entrance. Goes all the way to the top of the cave for a great view of the cave below and the Mae On country side. Lots of loose rock so check everything before pulling on it and wear a helmet!

1. 25m. 10 bolts.

2. 25m. 11 bolts.

3. 20m. 19 bolts. Traverse right about 4m to a ledge when you start, to access the 5c climbing, otherwise you will be going up a 6a variation.

4. 10m. 7 bolts. Continue up the cave exit. Belay from bolts. A rappel station is 2m climber's left of this belay station.

For the rappel, you can do 2 rappels outside of the cave or 3 rappels inside the cave (70m rope)

Steep and sustained, all the way!

Anxiety State Crisis takes a line up a featured pillar in the center of the cave.

Located to the right of Reunion. Figure out the tricky start and then climb through huecos to an anchor at the headwall. From the anchors, you can veer left and continue onto the 2nd pitch of Reunion.

Accessed from halfway up Reunion Pitch 3. Belay anchor is inside the cave. Finish on the same anchors as Reunion Pitch 3.

7 bolts and 5 threads.

The route is in your left side just coming into the cave, in front of Cool and Funky

Just inside the cave to the right.

Located just inside the mouth of the cave on the right side. (To the right of Cool and Funky). Start just to the left of a pile of bamboo. Be careful and try not to fall during the first 2 bolts; the bamboo can injure you.

First 3 bolts of the Wild Pumpus, then the go left to Foaming at the Mouth.

This line begins on "The Wild Pumpus/Foaming Pumpus" for the first 4 bolts through the boulder problem, then traverses left into the second bolt of "Freeblast" and the rest of the route.

Unclip the second bolt of "Freeblast" after clipping the third to reduce rope drag.

The first route at Crazy Horse

5c, Pitch 1: Straightforward, juggy face climbing. 15m, 10 bolts

6a+, Pitch 2: 25m, 15 bolts. Climb the face and finish at a set of rappel rings and rap down or veer left to another set of anchors and the 3rd pitch of the climb.

5a, Pitch 3, 15m, 6 bolts. Easier climbing. Belay from the first set of anchors you see. Rap off the next set of rap rings. 60 meter rope will get you to the ground (tie knots)

It is a good idea to check for bees before you climb this route. The final rappel descends right in front of bee hives where the route "A Wild Ride on a Crazy Horse" is located.

Access this route from the top of "Magic Drop" or "Reindeer request"

Starts at the top of Reindeer Request

Starts at the top of Reindeer Request. Go right after first bolt.

Starts at top of Ding Dong. 5a pitch is a traverse.

Starts from top of Bamboo Finders.

Starts at top of Blood, Love and Steel Pitch 1.

Starts at the top of Headhunters Pitch 2.

Starts at top of Blood, Love and Steel Pitch 1.

Watch for the bees.

Starts at the top of Dangerous Joy.

The route was first graded 7c. For the 7c take the jug in the bottom of the big hole (in the right of the third bolt) and then up and right.

Use long draws on the 4th, 5th and 6th bolts. You can use this route to access Route #21 at The Crazy Horse Area West Face.

Only route that on west face of the cliff. Have to climb up Via ferrata to belay station(between Horse shoe and Furnace)

Great climbing at the grade with a nice little finish way up on high. Great first lead.

Two-pitch climb. Second pitch heads up and left from anchors. It is possible to abseil from the second anchors with a 60 m rope (about 20 meters to ground below).

Fun route with good holds and super safely bolted. Enjoy, enjoy, enjoy!

Nice climbing with a thin technical crux. Enjoy the journey and don't clip the anchors on the route to the left.

Stellar line from the ground to the anchors. Doesn't get much better at the grade. Technical thin crimping with a sustained pumpy finish. Stay tight and learn to fight.

Good varied climbing on a stellar orange face, worth every clip and jug.

Makes climbing here all the more fun. this route is great. Maybe stick clip the first if at your limit.

One of the best in the area, this route is technical and has caught some of the better climbers that try it. Super good route on bomber rock.

Nice way to start out your day. Good varied climbing all the way to the anchors on nice grey rock.

The unnamed (as of yet) 2 pitch route at the far left of Tamarind Village.

1. 20m (5a) Climb a slabby face with good holds to a generous belay stance.

2. 25m (5c+) Climb a longer and more strenuous pitch to another nice belay ledge.

You can rappel back to the ground with a single 70m rope (tie knots at the end). The vertical displacement of the rappel is just under 35m.

Same climb as The Chimney Sweep but without the rear wall.

Far left of the wall starting with a small roof. It runs very close to the Unknown2 route. Unknown route name. Easy 6a (most probably bolted by F.Haden)

Unknown route starting near the bush on the wall and up through a gap between rocks.

Climbs on large features and splits off left from another route just before an overhang.

Splits off to the right just before the overhang.

Interesting route with some nice moves

This route shares the first bolt with the 7a+ on its right. For the 6b stay Left and follow the bolts straight up

The first bolt is in common with the 6b. Follow the Right line of bolts, up onto the overhanging bulge, and up

Climbs into the large crack. The first two bolts are in common with the 6a. Split left immediately above the third bolt onto the bulge if you want to keep the grade. Stay on the line of bolts on the arete and DO NOT veer right on the 6a. The start and finish is the same as the 6a on the right.

Climb up into the wide crack, then split right and climb the face with mantel ledges. Same start and finish as the 7a on the left.

A couple of meters to the right of "Monkey Around"

Left of two routes on the north facing corner. Grade not known but looks like 4c/5a.

Right of two routes on the north facing corner. Grade not known but looks like 4c/5a.

Lefthand route on the back wall. Grade not known but it looks like about 4a-c

Second route from the left of the back wall.

Navigate through a series of crimps, jugs, underclings and challenging slab, offering a thrilling blend of technicality and strength. As you reach higher elevations, breathtaking panoramic views reward your effort, making this ascent both a physical and visual adventure.

A fun route with a bouldery start and climbs through a featured tufa.

Start on fun bouldery moves, pull into a large hueco.

The most easiest route in this section

Good for warm up

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