Foto
Aiuto

Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. Northern Sierra Nevada 3,216 routes in Region

Summary:
G
F
M
A
M
G
L
A
S
O
N
D

Stagionalità

Arrampicata su roccia, Bouldering e altri stili

Lat / Long: 38.688830, -120.193901

1.1. Lake Tahoe, California Side 2,414 routes in Crag

Summary:
Arrampicata su roccia, Bouldering e altri stili

Lat / Long: 39.147247, -120.624480

storia

These guides all document the history of Tahoe are climbs.

Climbing Guide to the Crystal Basin by Bob Branscomb. 1992.

(etc)

1.1.1. Bowman Valley 124 routes in Crag

Summary:
Per lo più Arrampicata sportiva

Lat / Long: 39.440063, -120.661916

descrizione

Mostly single-pitch sport climbing on granite faces. Directions, maps and FA info can be found in North Tahoe: A Rock Climber's Guide by Josh Horniak.

1.1.2. The Emeralds 202 routes in Crag

Summary:
Arrampicata sportiva, Arrampicata su roccia e altri stili

Lat / Long: 39.333626, -120.625440

descrizione

Mostly single-pitch sport and trad climbing on two main cliff bands along the South Fork Yuba River. Directions, maps and FA info can be found in North Tahoe: A Rock Climber's Guide by Josh Horniak. Pools near the beginning of the approach are a popular summer swimming hole.

1.1.3. Indian Springs 53 routes in Crag

Summary:
Arrampicata su roccia, Con corda dall'alto e altri stili

Lat / Long: 39.328036, -120.566425

1.1.4. Rainbow 48 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Arrampicata su roccia, Bouldering e Arrampicata aid

Lat / Long: 39.308913, -120.511632

1.1.5. Truckee - Donner 492 routes in Area

Summary:
Bouldering, Arrampicata su roccia e altri stili

Lat / Long: 39.337462, -120.263793

1.1.6. Truckee River Canyon 149 routes in Crag

Summary:
Per lo più Arrampicata su roccia

Lat / Long: 39.251228, -120.185020

1.1.7. Sugarloaf 121 routes in Crag

Summary:
Arrampicata trad, Arrampicata sportiva e altri stili

Lat / Long: 38.775085, -120.308464

1.1.8. Phantom Spires 170 routes in Crag

Summary:
Arrampicata trad, Arrampicata sportiva e altri stili

Lat / Long: 38.785024, -120.250053

descrizione

A hillside above highway 50 covered with tiny crags and boulders, and a few main towering spires of granite.

Amongst a barren rock field you will find many traditional routes, along with some more difficult sport and mixed routes in an excellent, yet unsheltered setting that's almost eerie at times. Watching other parties climb is easy, since there are absolutely no trees surrounding the spires.

You can climb here from late fall to early summer before it gets too hot, and even in the winter on heavy drought years.

The black and white granite of The Phantom Spires will remind you of Yosemite, but like most Tahoe granite, isn't as glasslike.

avvicinamento

The original developers hoofed it uphill from highway 50. Today we have the luxury of a rarely maintained logging road. Low clearance cars must park on Wrights Lake Road, which adds about a mile of walking each way to the approach. The dirt road is closed seasonally during snow cover, check with Eldorado National Forest's website for current status.

etica

Trad rules. Bolts are only tolerated on new lines where no traditional pro can be had. If in doubt, don't drill.

storia

These formerly phantom rocks were unleashed from their concealment by a forest fire in the 1980s.

1.1.9. Lover's Leap 267 routes in Crag

Summary:
Arrampicata su roccia, Arrampicata trad e altri stili

Lat / Long: 38.801054, -120.136691

descrizione

This area is an excellent 250 to nearly 600 foot tall chunk of mostly vertical granite, containing hundreds of cracks crisscrossed with thousands of horizontal dikes. These dikes are key to reducing what would otherwise be very steep and difficult traditional routes, into routes with good rests and abundant holds, resulting in an area with relatively moderate grades. You will find over 250 developed routes that range from low bouldering traverses to 4 pitches tall. Some routes are bolt protected, but most of the sport climbing is 5.10+ YDS or harder, as the abundance of traditionally protected routes in close proximity to each other discourages squeezing in a bunch of moderate sport face climbing. All of the routes demand less than 20 minutes to "hike" into, as the entrance path is part of the pioneer trail, and therefore excellently maintained and quite wide.

Lovers Leap can sometimes seem crowded in certain areas, especially in the summer on weekends. However there is an almost limitless number of adventure routes and hidden classics that rarely ever see any traffic. As long as you're willing to step outside the box and try something that is not a "trade route", you will never have to wait in line or climb anywhere near other climbers... ever! Lovers Leap has a higher concentration and number of routes in close proximity to each other than any other crag in California. Add to that it's wide range of difficulty in routes and there is more than enough to keep everyone busy for a long time.

The main formation is traditionally divided into these walls, from right/west/closest to the campground, to left/east/furthest:West Wall, Main Wall, Central Wall, and East Wall. The second largest formation is the Hogsback. Many other small developed walls abound, mostly not yet covered on this site (seven or more of these are covered in Carville's Tahoe climbing guide). The nearest and most popular of these are the Lower Buttress and Dear John Buttress. The Loaf Boulder and Monks Rock are major boulders right outside the campground; other potential abounds in less convenient and obvious pieces of granite.

limitazioni per l'accesso

For all access issues, please contact CRAGS, the local affiliate of the Access Fund.

As of 2020 CRAGS is running a major multi-year stewardship project to help address the significant impacts this classic area has faced, from decades of high levels of climber traffic. If you have or plan on climbing here and are able to donate either money or time, your contributions will be greatly appreciated!

1.1.10. Bliss State Park 17 routes in Area

Summary:
Tutti Bouldering

Lat / Long: 38.988408, -120.106347

1.1.11. Desolation Wilderness 0 routes in Area

descrizione

A large wilderness area including both the Sierra crest and the Crystal Range, ripe with alpine lines. Like all wilderness, this is a leave-no-trace trad climbing and bouldering region.

1.1.12. Crystal Basin 39 routes in Region

Summary:
Per lo più Arrampicata trad

Lat / Long: 38.902171, -120.314596

1.1.13. Cascade Cliff 6 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Tutti Arrampicata sportiva

Lat / Long: 38.930977, -120.111171

1.1.14. Eagle Creek Canyon 133 routes in Crag

Summary:
Arrampicata su roccia, Arrampicata trad e altri stili

Lat / Long: 38.952146, -120.113610

descrizione

Tahoe area rock climbers refer to anything destination commonly approached from the Eagle Lake trailhead as "Eagle Lake Canyon," even though some crags in the area are physically outside of the Eagle Creek watershed.

1.1.15. Eagle Rock 7 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Per lo più Arrampicata trad

Lat / Long: 38.768265, -120.268672

descrizione

An obscure cliff, despite being obvious from hwy 50.

avvicinamento

From forest service road 11N18c, near China Flat Campground.

1.1.16. Echo Lakes 140 routes in Crag

Summary:
Arrampicata su roccia, Arrampicata sportiva e altri stili

Lat / Long: 38.841343, -120.058334

1.1.17. Echo Pass 0 routes in Area

1.1.18. Angora Lakes 3 routes in Area

Summary:
Tutti Deep Water Soloing

Lat / Long: 38.866675, -120.065984

descrizione

Some nice DWS above a beautiful (if crowded) alpine lake, and some bouldering in the forest nearby.

avvicinamento

Park at the trailhead for Angora Lakes ($7 / day / car, as of 2016), then a short (< 1 mile) walk to upper Angora Lake.

On weekends the parking lot fills up by about 10:30am, so you need to get here early if you want to avoid a longer, hotter hike in and out.

1.1.19. Pie Shop 109 routes in Crag

Summary:
Arrampicata su roccia, Bouldering e altri stili

Lat / Long: 38.887043, -120.013885

descrizione

The prominent mountain with the aesthetic south facing wall located in the centre of the plain on the southern end of the lake. Exceedingly obvious from hwy 50 as you go over Echo Summit.

1.1.20. The Secrets 71 routes in Field

Summary:
Tutti Bouldering

Lat / Long: 38.759209, -120.191302

1.1.21. Christmas Tree Valley / Meyers 67 routes in Region

Summary:
Arrampicata su roccia, Bouldering e altri stili

Lat / Long: 38.820128, -119.971037

1.1.22. Unnamed - Empath Cliff 1 route in Cliff

Summary:
Tutti Arrampicata sportiva

descrizione

The exact location of this cliff is unknown, please locate this cliff if you know where it is.

storia

Traversi first visited the cliff in the summer of 2019, after Jimmy Webb had sent him a picture of it in 2018. Webb had spotted it on a recon for new boulders in the area.

1.1.23. East Shore (see Nevada) 0 routes in Crag

sommario

1.1.24. Reno and Carson Valley Area 57 routes in Crag

Summary:
Per lo più Arrampicata su roccia

1.1.25. Headwall Climbing Wall 0 routes in Gym

descrizione

1960 Squaw Valley Rd

Olympic Valley

California 96146 USA

http://www.squawadventure.com/climbing-wall

call: (530) 583-0150

1.1.26. South Tahoe Crossfit 0 routes in Gym

descrizione

2050 Dunlap St.

South Lake Tahoe

California 96150 USA

http://www.southtahoecrossfit.com/

call: 530.541.2341

1.1.27. Bubble Bath Boulders 9 routes in Field

Summary:
Tutti Bouldering

Lat / Long: 39.105678, -120.924840

1.1.28. South Yuba River 59 routes in Field

Summary:
Per lo più Bouldering

Lat / Long: 39.314544, -121.039169

1.1.29. Hirschman's Pond 16 routes in Field

Summary:
Tutti Bouldering

Lat / Long: 39.268348, -121.031843

1.1.30. Bear River Boulders 8 routes in Field

Summary:
Tutti Bouldering

Lat / Long: 39.066891, -121.003186

1.1.31. Dry Creek Boulders 4 routes in Boulder

Summary:
Tutti Bouldering

Lat / Long: 39.109366, -121.329220

1.1.32. Stagecoach Trail 1 route in Field

Summary:
Tutti Bouldering

Lat / Long: 38.912122, -121.046015

1.1.33. Island Lake Boulders 22 routes in Field

Summary:
Tutti Bouldering

Lat / Long: 39.400192, -120.621571

1.1.34. Penner Lake 3 routes in Field

Summary:
Tutti Bouldering

Lat / Long: 39.420442, -120.614306

1.1.35. The Blues 1 route in Field

Summary:
Tutti Bouldering

Lat / Long: 39.360305, -120.647515

1.1.36. Black Buttes 1 route in Sector

Summary:
Tutti Arrampicata trad

Lat / Long: 39.394294, -120.558814

1.1.37. Cisco Grove 14 routes in Sector

Summary:
Tutti Bouldering

Lat / Long: 39.358190, -120.494743

1.2. Carson Pass 392 routes in Area

Summary:
Arrampicata trad, Bouldering e altri stili

Lat / Long: 38.598808, -120.273289

sommario

Climbing areas typically accessed from California state route 88.

limitazioni per l'accesso

Note: within the Eldorado National Forest you may park anywhere beside highway 88, provided your car is fully off the pavement. Obviously this rule no longer applies once snow season starts.

1.2.1. The Spot 43 routes in Crag

Summary:
Per lo più Bouldering

Lat / Long: 38.546053, -120.339528

sommario

A 1.5 mile stretch of unusually featured granite boulders and outcrops at 6000' altitude, right beside hwy 88.

descrizione

The highest quality, most concentrated area of problems is at 'The Pinnacle' at the eastern end, but the 'Alien Sector' is also relatively concentrated, and there are scattered boulders throughout the zone.

Be aware that there are a lot of mountain lions in this part of the Sierra, so best not to be here alone, or around dawn or dusk (when they're more active). It's no coincidence that Cat, Panther and Tiger Creeks are all nearby natural features...

limitazioni per l'accesso

Located within Eldorado National Forest, so no restrictions on climbing.

avvicinamento

Park right beside the boulders on forestry road 8N37, or (early season) carefully park in one of the few turnouts along this stretch of highway 88 (making sure your car is well off the road) and walk up the hill.

For 'The Pinnacle' it's better to come in from the Lumberyard Fire Station end of 8N37, opposite and just downhill (West) of Ellis Rd.

1.2.2. Upper Bear River Reservoir 0 routes in Area

1.2.3. Lower Bear River Reservoir 0 routes in Area

1.2.4. Calaveras Dome Area 71 routes in Crag

Summary:
Arrampicata trad, Arrampicata su roccia e Arrampicata sportiva

Lat / Long: 38.490439, -120.236770

sommario

Some big, lesser known domes.

descrizione

A fantastic, slightly old-school area comprising several distinct domes and walls. The centrepiece is 'Calaveras Dome' itself, a massive 1800' high dome on the southern side of the Mokelumne River.

limitazioni per l'accesso

No access issues, as its located in National Forest.

avvicinamento

From CA highway 88, turn right (south) onto Ellis Rd (poorly signposted) and drive for several windy miles to the bottom of the valley. At the bottom, turn left (East) and follow the road along the Mokelumne River (with several crossings) until the domes loom into view.

dove alloggiare

There's plenty of free camping just downstream from the domes. The official National Forest sites have pit toilets, picnic tables and fire rings, but there is no potable water anywhere in the valley.

1.2.5. Hwy 88 Boulder 0 routes in Boulder

descrizione

A great looking boulder right beside the road.

1.2.6. God's Country 28 routes in Field

Summary:
Tutti Bouldering

Lat / Long: 38.635271, -120.156694

descrizione

A tight cluster of 3 great boulders located right at 7900' elevation (so great in summer), and only a couple of hundred yards off the road. Somehow managed to avoid getting burned in the Caldor Fire, so still shady and pleasant.

avvicinamento

Carefully park beside highway 88 just east of the turnout between Maiden's Grave (~¾ mile to the West) and the western end of Tragedy Springs Rd (~½ mile to the East). Do not park in or at the ends of the turnout! The shoulders here are narrow, so you may need to park several hundred yards east, at a shallow road cut with unusual “pancake stack” rock layers on the southern side, where it’s possible to park fully off the road.

Find the tall blank boulder just off the road, just east of the turnout and on the other side of the road, then head straight uphill to the boulders.

1.2.7. Silver Lake 71 routes in Area

Summary:
Bouldering, Arrampicata trad e altri stili

Lat / Long: 38.663500, -120.128509

sommario

The large, heavily glaciated basin around Silver Lake.

descrizione

A large area with a huge amount of rock, both bomber alpine granite and (mostly unclimbable) volcanic choss. Like the nearby Kirkwood Lake / Caples Creek area, this is an excellent place to explore if you're the adventurous type.

1.2.8. Two Sentinels 0 routes in Area

1.2.9. Kirkwood Lake / Caples Creek 0 routes in Area

Flora e fauna: Burnt in the Caldor Fire

Although this area reopened April 1st, 2022 (as per Forest Order No. 03-22-06), it was extensively burned by the southern lobe of the Caldor Fire, and there is a substantial amount of standing dead timber throughout. Caution is advised.

Visualizza i dettagli sugli avvertimenti e commenta

Ha creato 2 anni fa

descrizione

A large and complex area of domes, slabs, and walls up to about 100m in height (though mostly much shorter than that).

While the area has been climbed on for many decades and has some fixed gear here and there, information is (deliberately) very scant as there is a desire amongst the local climbing community to preserve this area as somewhere that can provide a first-ascent-esque adventure experience.

If you know what you're doing and are after that experience, this is a wonderful place to visit. Just please don't publish what you find, so that others may also have that same experience.

avvicinamento

Kirkwood Lake parking lot is the single best place to park for this area, though it can be exceptionally busy on weekends, and some of the cliffs are better accessed from the Lake Margaret parking lot and trail, or various parking lots along Caples Lake.

1.2.10. Caples Lake 0 routes in Area

sommario

The large basin around Caples Lake.

1.2.11. Carson Pass Crags 27 routes in Area

Summary:
Tutti Con corda dall'alto

Lat / Long: 38.698900, -119.989048

sommario

Top roping and bouldering on fantastic alpine granite, with great views over Red Lake and into the Hope Valley, and just a short walk from the car.

descrizione

A small but complex area of glacial benches and boulders right beside Carson Pass. Most of the taller cliffs have been extensively bolted with fixed top-rope anchors, but because of the unusual placement and spacing of these bolts long slings and/or a second rope are needed to try to reduce force multiplication effects. Most of the cliffs appear to have had a single bolt installed every 3-6 feet along the cliff top - a highly unusual arrangement that somehow manages to be both inconvenient and overbolted at the same time...

There is more information on the top-roping areas here.

avvicinamento

For all areas, park at the Meiss Trailhead parking lot. The first (huge!) boulder is visible right beside the parking lot, while the other areas are accessed via a climbing trail that climbs the hill just to the right of this boulder.

1.2.12. Elephant's Graveyard 0 routes in Area

limitazioni per l'accesso

These cliffs are located within the Mokelumne Wilderness Area, so fixed anchors (bolts etc.) are strictly forbidden.

1.2.13. Blue Lakes 6 routes in Area

Summary:
Tutti Bouldering

Lat / Long: 38.622594, -119.938471

sommario

A beautiful glacial basin at around 8000', with sharp volcanic peaks all around.

limitazioni per l'accesso

The Blue Lakes and surrounding areas are PG&E land.

avvicinamento

From 88 in Hope Valley, follow Blue Lakes Rd (paved) all the way to the end at Lower Blue Lake. From here turn right and follow a well maintained dirt road along the east shore of the lake, then along to Upper Blue Lake.

Do not take Forestdale Rd from 88 unless you have a high-clearance 4WD and/or an ATV, and lots of time.

dove alloggiare

There are at least 3 official campgrounds on the shores of the lakes.

1.2.14. Woodfords Canyon 134 routes in Crag

Summary:
Arrampicata trad, Arrampicata sportiva e altri stili

Lat / Long: 38.772828, -119.845040

1.2.15. Mokelumne Wilderness 12 routes in Sector

Summary:
Arrampicata sportiva, Arrampicata trad e Bouldering

Lat / Long: 38.653023, -119.948998

1.3. Ebbetts Pass 84 routes in Area

Summary:
Bouldering, Arrampicata sportiva e Arrampicata trad

Lat / Long: 38.389999, -120.106650

1.3.1. True Value Crag 25 routes in Crag

Summary:
Per lo più Arrampicata sportiva

Lat / Long: 38.650515, -119.723797

1.3.2. Bear Valley 59 routes in Sector

Summary:
Tutti Bouldering

Lat / Long: 38.415452, -120.039721

1.4. Sonora Pass 324 routes in Crag

Summary:
Arrampicata sportiva, Bouldering e altri stili

Lat / Long: 38.124895, -120.008721

descrizione

There's tons of granite climbing along the Sonora Pass Highway (108), with these pages hinting at just a few of the areas and climbs. Anyone climbing here should definitely have a copy of A Climber's Guide to the Sonora Pass Highway by Brad Young and Steve Dawson. The book has much more detailed descriptions and directions. Check out the author's forum for new routes and conditions.

1.4.1. Two Mile Bar 0 routes in Crag

1.4.2. Table Mountain 157 routes in Crag

Summary:
Per lo più Arrampicata sportiva

Lat / Long: 37.917839, -120.498233

sommario

The best sport climbing within 2 hours of the Bay Area, along with some good trad at The Grotto.

descrizione

Table Mountain is the remains of a 9 million year old lava flow that originated near Dardanelles Cone, approximately 60 miles to the east near Sonora Pass. These lavas flowed down the ancestral bed of the Stanislaus River, solidified into hard igneous rock (Latite), and in the intervening period the surrounding softer rocks were eroded away, leaving Table Mountain standing up above the surrounding area. It is one of the longest and best-preserved "inverted valleys" in the world.

The resulting cliffs offer steep, generally positive climbing on blocky (and occasionally columnar) bullet-hard rock.

limitazioni per l'accesso

Access to some of the crags at Table Mountain can be tenuous, with some crags on private property and some of the access trails crossing private property. Make sure to check the Access Fund (http://status.accessfund.org/) for current restrictions, and always be respectful of the property owners.

avvicinamento

The climbing areas are located beside highway 108 in the vicinity of Jamestown CA - check the individual crag pages for precise access instructions.

1.4.3. Columbia 60 routes in Area

Summary:
Tutti Bouldering

Lat / Long: 38.031199, -120.391663

descrizione

Adventure limestone bouldering with a Cowboy Western feel.

1.4.4. Potter's Rock 0 routes in Area

1.4.5. Herring Creek Dome 5 routes in Area

Summary:
Tutti Arrampicata trad

Lat / Long: 38.231415, -119.936570

descrizione

Slab climbing on a granite some. For an excellent description and directions, see pg. 188 in A Climber's Guide to the Sonora Pass Highway by Brad Young and Steve Dawson.

avvicinamento

Hike is one mile uphill.

1.4.6. Burst Rock 32 routes in Area

Summary:
Arrampicata trad, Con corda dall'alto e Arrampicata sportiva

Lat / Long: 38.204148, -119.878557

descrizione

An extensive area of high quality alpine granite, easily accessible off of Highway 108. In addition to lots of roped climbing, there is a lot of bouldering potential in the surrounding area (including on the drive in).

avvicinamento

If heading East on Highway 108, take a right on Crabtree Rd a few miles before Pinecrest.

If coming from Pinecrest Lake, follow Dodge Ridge Rd to the Dodge Ridge Ski Resort and take a signposted right turn at the welcome sign for the resort (where the one way loop starts). After a quarter of a mile or so this connects to Crabtree Rd - take a left.

From this junction the routes combine - follow Crabtree Rd to the Bell Meadows turn off. Stay left here on forest road 4N37 and drive all the way to the end, where there are several large parking lots. All of the Burst Rock climbing areas are accessed from this parking lot.

Note: Don't take forest road 4N34 from Dodge Ridge Ski Resort unless you have time to kill and/or want to go exploring. Although it connects to 4N37 at the far end, it's in much poorer condition than 4N37, and is therefore much slower (and could be impassable in early season). Lots of hunters also use this road during hunting season - if you go exploring off the road wear brightly coloured clothes.

1.4.7. Columns of the Giants 0 routes in Area

1.4.8. Second Quarry 2 routes in Area

Summary:
Tutti Arrampicata su roccia

1.4.9. Chipmunk Flats 17 routes in Area

Summary:
Arrampicata trad, Arrampicata su roccia e Con corda dall'alto

1.4.10. Class 5 Fitness 0 routes in Gym

descrizione

20860 Mechanical Dr.

Sonora

California 95370 USA

http://www.24-7at5.com/

call: (209) 532-5556

1.4.11. Knight's Ferry 6 routes in Sector

Summary:
Tutti Bouldering

Lat / Long: 37.820182, -120.660909

1.4.12. St. Mary's Boulders 6 routes in Sector

Summary:
Tutti Bouldering

Lat / Long: 38.336916, -119.646387

1.4.13. Lta 10 routes in Sector

Summary:
Per lo più Arrampicata trad

Lat / Long: 38.329708, -119.553914

1.4.14. Emigrant Wilderness 2 routes in Sector

Summary:
Tutti Arrampicata trad

Lat / Long: 38.170697, -119.803846

1.4.15. Upper Highway 108 11 routes in Sector

Summary:
Per lo più Arrampicata sportiva

Lat / Long: 38.336749, -119.803116

1.4.16. Pinecrest Lake 2 routes in Sector

Summary:
Tutti Arrampicata trad

Lat / Long: 38.204201, -119.970957

1.4.17. Road 5N06 Area 9 routes in Sector

Summary:
Arrampicata sportiva e Arrampicata trad

Lat / Long: 38.324768, -119.955256

1.4.18. Donnell Reservoir 5 routes in Sector

Summary:
Tutti Arrampicata trad

Lat / Long: 38.302439, -119.979320

1.5. Walker River Canyon, US 395 1 route in Crag

Summary:
Tutti Bouldering

Lat / Long: 38.449679, -119.454413

1.5.1. 395 Boulders 1 route in Field

Summary:

Lat / Long: 38.456280, -119.460511

descrizione

Beautiful blocks of white alpine granite have been kindly deposited along the side of US 395, so you can break up your drive with this excellent roadside attraction.

avvicinamento

Located at the base of a scree field on the west side of US-395, it's almost as if Caltrans made a pullout just for your bouldering.

storia

The boulders used to be higher up on the slope, but have more recently come to rest a more convenient location.

1.6. Carson River Canyon, US 395 1 route in Crag

Summary:
Tutti Arrampicata su roccia

Lat / Long: 39.194024, -119.645746

Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 Português 中文