Routes as trad in Slangolie Buttress

1. Climb the square recess up for 4 meters and move slightly right and up to a ledge. Climb the weird short crack section to the proper base of the mountain.

2. About 10 meters to the right of the crest there is an easy recess/crack. Climb it basically straight up to a roof, moving to diagonally right on the face just below the roof. Continue up and slightly left to the base of an obvious crack.

3. Climb the crack straight up passing through a cam in-situ. At the top of the crack, continue going up using the face on the right hand side to an obvious corner/ ledge.

4. Climb broken rock up for about 10 meters. Careful with loose rocks here. Continue diagonally right to an obvious right facing corner.

5. Climb the corner for 10 meters and traverse right for 4 meters. Continue diagonally right to a right facing corner close to the edge of the cliff.

6. Climb the short (less than 2 meters) stepped crack and traverse left to a vegetated ledge. Walk and scramble up moving always diagonally left until able to find a cairn. Stance here. A more interesting variation is to climb the crack to the right moving up pass a bush and traversing left around 2 meters above the bush. After the easy exposed traverse scramble up to the small ledge with a cairn (suggested grade, 11).

7. Scramble up till able to reach the base of a recess/chimney. Climb it to a ledge on the right.

8. Climb the short crack through a gap to a big vegetated ledge. Walk across it to a face with a big face crack boulder tending towards the left. Climb it to a stance on some big blocks in a beautiful vegetated ledge.

9. This is the best pitch of the route if you choose to do the 16 pitch. It is obvious once you get there. Climb the crack in a flat wall and continue up on good holds on a slightly overhang wall. Climb the break to the left and up to a good undercling. Continue up slightly to the right and back left to a short ledge. From here you have the option to climb the crack on the far left of the ledge or pull straight up on good holds but not great foot in the first pull. Continue up to a ledge with some big blocks.

10. Mantel up a small face and traverse left to a crack around the corner. Pull through it and traverse left to an obvious break. Smear and mantel up through the gap to a vegetated ledge. Cross it and scramble up to the base of a big recess on a white face.

11. Climb the recess to a bushy steep walk section. Cross it and scramble to ledge. Cross the ledge to the base of a big chock stone in a crack.

12. Pull through the chock stone and scramble up through the gap and up to the top.

Start on the path at the left end of the crag up a clean slabby face beneath a step over roof. Step left at the roof for a small prow, then follow the main crack above to a vague rail about 2m below the next overlap. Traverse 3-4m right to a break in the overlap and take good holds to the top.

Start from the ledge. Take the big open book on the left end of the ledge (the one facing the ocean, not the one facing the ledge). Exit left the open book at the overhang, then finish as for First Casualty above.

Start from the ledge, left and behind the bushes on the left side of the crag, and the line heads diagonally right until the head wall, where it goes straight up to the tree.

Best Line at the crag: interesting moves with a pumpy disposition. Start in the north-facing, undercut open book on the left side of the wall, and basically follows this line to the top. Head up and right to an undercut nose, then up the vague open book and through easier ground to a rest below a clean face broken by a single, vertical crack.

Just right of a hanging blunt nose is a rounded sheet on the wall- great chicken eating spot. Convince your feet up, then take the fault to the top of the crag. Great Pro.

Excellent line that gets progressively more challenging. Start off a Ladies Tee towards the right corner of the crag: beneath an undercling at the bottom of a small left facing corner. Basically the line takes the big open book all the way to the top, however we strongly recommend stepping left about 5m up over the undercut to take the face above. Then reunite with the open book to the top. The line at the top avoids the feature taken by SO.

This is the longest line at the crag: an enormous left diagonal line sharing the same start as POD and exiting at the tree above An Uncertain Piece. It was opened ground up on-sight.

Supposedly 22. Take the series of overlapping open books as it tackles the steep wall. At the top the route traverses right to take a prow through to an easy head wall then the top.

Take the arete on the left end of the wall to a right tending crack to the top. last few meters need a clean, sorry. Start up the Rectangular face to the ledge, then step over to the arete.

An improbable looking line for the grade. The route takes a steep launch off the ground to the ledge, then a line series of thin moves to the top, punctuated by a large "Thank God" rest on top of a big flake (NOTE: the flake has since fallen off the face). Doesn't take gear larger than BD#0.75. Strong contender for the best line on the buttress so far.

Same start as route above, only taking the right fork. It shares a rest at the top of the flake. Exciting finish.

On the right end of the orange wall is a turret, take this to the ledge, step 2-3m right to climb the face just left of the open book crack. Follow the cracks to a horizontal break that bends up to a vertical crack just left of the route. From the next rail blast through to the top.

The two pitches probably could be linked to one pitch.

1. 10m (19) The route takes a line beneath a huge hanging face with a spectacular hanging arete. Scramble up and start in a left arching crack directly beneath the hanging wall. At the base of the wall/roof step left to a ledge at the base of an open book.

2. 18m (17). Take the open book before traversing across the face using a good rail- to the arete, which is taken to the top.

One of the few routes to face south, this line is at the very right end of the crag and starts in a open book/crack before stepping onto the left face, past a small protrusion to a rail, then onto the top. Best of luck coming down as the opening party got lost trying to walk off.