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The Frontline

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Description

The Frontline was the first area discovered and developed in the Balkans. It is the biggest area with about 150 individual problems ranging from V0- to V13. There are excellent problems of all grades and styles.

These cliffs and boulders are generally west and south-facing and receive plenty of afternoon sun so they are perfect for cold winter afternoons and hot summer mornings. In summer they can get very hot. The rock is fast drying and clean but beware of the crimps, some have broken with "interesting" consequences. Learn to pull gently and evenly on the holds and tread very carefully.

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Access issues inherited from New South Wales and ACT

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

Approach

Referring to the location map park 50m into Larra Cr. just off Mill Dr. North Rocks next to the Bush-Fire Brigade trailer. Walk down the chained-off driveway, saying hello to all the local barking dogs, and turn left when you hit the grass at the bottom. About 30m along there is a well worn path down the hill with a small creek on your right, follow this path for about 50m. When you hit the cliff-line turn left and scramble down wherever you please, this is the Frontline area (left side).

Alternatively, from the Trenches, go down the hill, cross the creek and then back up the hill. Make sure you stick to the established paths!

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History

History timeline chart

Most of the V0-2 walls, slabs and cracks in this area were climbed from the mid 70s long before pads, sticky rubber, chalk or the V scale, by schoolboys, scouts and others.

The Frontline was (re)discovered in early 1999 by Tim O'Neil and Rob Saunders. Over the next 6 months, with the help of Adam Griffiths and Matt Wilder, the core of about 150 problems were added with the highlights being 'Choppers', 'Toe to Toe', 'Milo and Kofi', 'Macedomeia', 'Sloper-Dan Milosevic', 'Who Killed The Kennedys' and 'Opposition In Exile'.

A few odd classic problems were added by various other people with the most notable being Battle of the shirts by Gordon Low and L'homme obu (translates to'Rocket man' in French) by Fred Nicole.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Areas

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Name
Style
Routes
Ticks
Height
Grades
The Far Side boulder
33
2,274
3m
8
27
2,699
3m
8
20
3,241
3m
5
The Main Wall boulder
33
1,023
5m
7
47
2,895
4m
10
6
362
3m
2
11
532
3m
4
Area Q boulder
29
1,239
4m
5
Roadside boulder
18
650
3m
9

Routes

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Grade Route

Start on knob and gaston, to'better' hold then top just right of tree.

Up dihedral to scary top-out.

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Mike Forward and Peter Balint

Date: 2023

With 2065 bouldering problems ranging from V0-V15 across 57 areas nestled around Sydney, the all new Sydney Bouldering Guide will keep you occupied for years to come. Just because we live in Sydney we'll try not to be biased but honestly this city has some amazing bouldering and usually not more than a few minutes off the road or some even near parks and train stations. There's no need to camp out and trek for hours to get to world class problems, they're right on your door step.

Authors Mike Forward and Peter Balint spent over 7 years putting this guide together and is the first new bouldering guide for Sydney in over 20 years. It's over 350 colour pages including 600+ colour photo tops, crag tops, amazing images and more.

Author(s): Neil Monteith & Simon Carter

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9780645299908

Featuring 1142 climbing routes located at 24 of the best crags in the Sydney area, this A5 size guide book is super user friendly with easy to use colour cliff topos and access maps. Covers sport and trad climbing at a variety of grades, something for everyone.

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Sat 6 May
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