Decided to bring the rack and climb out late knowing it would be dark, really strange to place Trad gear in the dark with very limited vision of head torch light to look for placements
Led pitch 1,2,4
Really funny to come back after doing so many more multis now how my mindsets different, remembered the pitch 3 ledge to be so much smaller but now realise it's quite spacious
Awesome multipitch to finish the day. Beautiful position and nice straightforward but exposed climbing for the bottom pitches. We took the 17 left variant at the top, which was surprisingly punchy! Then finished back on trad.
Day for it! Epic. Was semi-forced onto the left 17 variant and got a little lost had to sit. Bummed at that but was an awesome day with Chantel for her first multi!
Epic day! On the 2nd pitch- If you're a trad newby like me don't keep thinking of saving your big cams till last because before you know it you've only used your small cams and you're at the anchors already hahaha. Also got confused on the 5th pitch at the lunch time ledge. Wasn't sure if I had to use the 2 carrots (didn't see this written on the crag before hand) so started the climb on the middle 17 variant, switching over and finishing on the left arete 17. Awesome climbing. Took us 4 hours in total.
Second time going up. In a party of 3 and managed to make some solid time! Didn’t use a single bolt plate. Not sure if the carrots are still there or if they have been chopped. 2 cams and a sling needed for the last pitch.
Got to the start at 10:00. Rock was generally dry despite a little rain overnight.
Linked a cold and windy traverse on P3 with P4. We had lunch on the lunch-ledge around 12:30, just as it was getting some sun.
I got a bit confused leading P6 - there are two variants going up the L face! I started up 'Sweet Dreams Variant #2' (the centre line), then thought this might have been the wrong grade so downclimbed+traversed+back-cleaned L to the 'Sweet Dreams Variant' line near the arete. beco had a bad time following the mid-pitch linkup/traverse. She did fine on the direct line to the anchors on gear though.
Walked out around 1445.
Highlight: (rope management achievement unlocked!) finished top-belaying every pitch with a stacked rope ready for leading the next pitch, without ever swinging leads.
I led pitch 1, 3/4, and the last pitch. Wasn't really planning to do the 17 variant but misread guidebook. Then I got really damn confused about a bolt from the end, and stepping left found the second last anchor of Saccharine Nightmare (didn't realise at the time), and linked its last pitch up to the finish. Made for nice climbing but the rope drag was abominable by the end!
Accidentally stumbled on the 17 variant. And I am so happy that we did. What a way to end a beautiful climb. Super cold , super windy, the sun was a treat when it hit the wall after mid day.
The sun was in my eyes and couldn't see any holds. Cool climbing though. Definitely better than the easier finish! One day I'll feel confident enough to lead a multipitch :p
Can finally say I've done Sweet Dreams. Supercruisy day out enjoying the views of the three sisters.
Pitch 1: Couple of moves onto a huge ledge then up the staircase corner - 2 carrot bolts.
Pitch 2: More corner climbing to cosy belay. Lewis placed a few cams.
Pitch 3 & 4: The traverse pitch (and money pitch). I struggle to spot carrot bolts on grey rock - 3 bolts up then start traversing horizontal. Rope drag got pretty solid by the end. No idea why pitch 4 exists separately.
Pitch 5: Follow the carrots to the huge ledge. Cool exposure stepping over the gap and looking down.
Pitch 6: The only one that feels like real climbing - we went up the line furthest to the left that has the carrot as the first bolt as it seemed to fit the description of 'blunt arete' best (not sure which line is 'correct' for this variant but seemed around 17). Placed 2 cams at the end - one to protect the rooflet and one in the final corner crack.
