Ascents as Red point or Ground up red point as sport by Niko Eltarenko

Today; It wasn't far enough to stop me

Sent! Yeah I know what you're thinking; how the hell did that happen?! I can't believe it either. With that said, full disclosure: I clipped the anchors prior to making the last move. Im counting it.

8A - I swear I'm not even that good... But fuck it; maybe I am. Sky rocketing through grades lately. Plateau incoming in 3, 2, 1...

Sent! EZ PZ - Something harder now would be good. Also it's a prima route that deserves more than three ascents it got so far; jump on it! Thanks for bolting, Seb

A nice way to wrap up the year. Rock solid with NikoBeta™ most of the way - Umby lent a hand with the sequence [body position] for the top pinch section. Arrived at the anchors with minimal pump and had a quick go at COD (the climb, not the game) - best climb I have been on so far in my life. Even beats ghetto superstar

And it's a wrap. Second shot today. Felt really solid the entire way; this completes WoC. If you send the 27, definitely jump on this!

Absolutely destroyed this climb today

First go today. Felt a little soft for a 28 but super classic it definitely is!

New quality rating - Legendary. The only climb that compares is Ghetto Superstar. If your upper difficulty is 24 and you're looking for your first 25-26 tick there is no route better than this. 5 Slings are >needed< to dial down the rope drag from abysmal to slightly less ridiculous. When coming back left towards the anchors of the 25 reach bellow to unclip the previous quickdraw and move it to the next bolt; helps a lot! Also met the kids. More broken glass, bongs and rubbish.

Sent, Sent, Sent, Sent, Sent, Seeeeeent - had it in the bag in the previous session but fell for no good reason. Glad I could redeem myself

And sent.

On my fifth attempt today. Really pleased of how well I climbed it; was chatting to Tamati whilst doing all the moves. Provided me with some much needed beta; through the crux ended up doing my own [as per usual]. A bicycle toe hook to the anchors

Pow! My fingers are completely destroyed

Second shot (third if i count the botched start). To be fair it would have taken longer if I didn't have a spray of beta coming my way - thanks for the great times John

KAPOW! A sneaky afternoon session. Second Shot - after working the crux sequence on my first go to a complete automation - Excellent climb

Yeeeeeeeeah! If you like powerful short climbs it doesnt get any better than that. Fantastic!

Just love the starting sequence. The surfboard is pretty awesome too; that is when you realise it's much more sturdy than it looks. (Thank god)

#neverskipchestday boys! Fucking awesome!

On second go; first clean 25! Bring three extended Quickdraws and a couple of longer boned ones to minimise rope drag. Also this and it's neighbour climbs are the only ones not to seep after rain. The extension is wet also. Will be wet for some time. If you're planning on coming here this weekend go to the hideaway instead. Will be wet for a few more days.

Should have stars! Double toe hook start into a high heel hook into a undercling crimp and asymmetric throw. Mega!

Chucked 4 laps on this. Enjoyable bat hang, kneebar and tricky starting sequence. Did this during an other heavy thunderstorm -

A quick dog cleanup from last time. Good route. Jump on this

Hmmm... Somehow this one was a ghost according to the crag. Must have forgotten to log something. Lets make this official

Done and dusted. In complete spooge none the less; humid and as tucked away from the breeze as baaaaaals today

Loved it!

Had to do numerous laps today with Tom as the holds were almost completely soaked in parts. We had mer minutes to get back on the climb before it became wet again. Finally sent this bad boy. Phenomenal roof climbing

P.S Double toe hook FTW!

4 ascents total. Should have sent it the second time but did a stupid move and slipped off the best jug on the whole climb. Had to do it again and then an other time to clean it all! Maybe the best 23 in Sydney.

Didn't think I could get to the pocket but the high left heel hook and the micro crimp off to the right brought the send home

Super!

Picks some of the best pieces of this wall and joins them together. Bring slung out draw for the traverse.

Blew the on-sight on that long move. Make sure you meathook your left over it. It goes with relative ease then

One of the best 23's around. Do it! On second go because I made a stupid mistake near the top.

Second go to redeem myself!

Almost on sighted. Went for the uber long reach when I could have used an intermediate.

This time; it was cleeeeeeeeean!

In one word "eventful" went for a massive Dyno above the third clip. Grazed the entire front of my chest and found myself 50cm off the ground; Dom was dangling above. There went the onsight. Redpointing this was much better the second time around!

Hmm... Guide says 22; I would say a bit soft for the grade apart from the move from the thin upside down flake near clip 2-3. Enjoyable.

Dino'd up to the reachy hold expecting a jug on my first attempt... Should have done the move statically; it wasn't a jug at all... cleaned the dog on my second ascent

Funky slopers and committing movements. Fell off the last move by dyno-ing to it; apparently the juggy looking hold is very much a sloper. Ticked it the second time around.

Fantastic Climb. More than a little slimy in the heat

Damn; should have onsighted but once again poor footwork on nothing particularly difficult got me unstuck

Contender for the best 21 in Sydney region. This is the climb in the middle (not left) as the description has outlined. It's in-between BJ and HIL. Extend the following draws: 3, 4, 7, 8. Extremely solid for its grade; not an easy 21 tick.

Hard to onsight. But a real pleasure to redpoint. Again 3 times; in order to set up top ropes for friends.

Ground Fall from slightly above the 4th clip. Thankfully I landed flat on my back with minimal force as my belayer was still being pulled up by the force of my fall... From now on only normal ATCs and grigri's.

Wouldn't go out as far as saying the best 21 in Sydney. Vulgar Direct I felt was much much better; maybe it's because I decked though... Jump on it!

This is actually a very good climb. Once again I went up aiding on every clip. Emptied Sydney's supply of chalk on the holds and sent the following run.

Came here with my best friend. Wow! What a #%%$ of a climb! Everything was super greasy and wet. Took a few good lead falls and wacked myself in the face with both my hands. Used up my entire chalk bag contents; red pointed on the second ascent. My advice, check the wind direction before you go and the amount of time since it last has rained!

Still love this climb! x2.2 Because the 22 extension is really not worth doing. Seriously crumbly rock on a hollow ledge.

So, we had heavy thunderstorms, rain and mist for the last 3 days straight. But this place is bomb proof right...? Well... It seems I may have been too overly enthusiastic about how dry this crag stays. I tried jumping on every climb today only 2 of them were any way possible to pull on. This on and Drug Baron. To the credit of this crag; these two routes apart from the hideaway were probably the only ones in NSW that were even remotely climbable. One Aid onsight to dry and one redpoint.

Came here with a bouldering mat (as well as quickdraws); imagined this was a boulder; nek minut I'm at the top. It's incredible what a bit of confidence does for you.

There is a Niko Super Sandbag Variation at around grade 24-25 using the two chalked up mono-pockets because you didn't see the (non-chalked) undercling bellow.

Absolutely loved the move from the two finger pocket upwards. Fantastic.