Ascents by Brendan Heywood

Nice flow to this

Fun and flowy, fairly consistent and a great warm up for Innocence in a similar style

Super happy to flash this. My kinda problem with power jugs. Found a sneaky knee bar in the roof. A very easy V4 to Sanguine.

Was showing this to Ben as a warmup. In hindsite I now remember that Underbelly starts on the lowest part of the rail and I had worked this line but not sure if I'd actually done it before. I flashed it (thinking it was the V2) and was repeating it, and I think my right crimp was too aggressive, or too early in the morning, or all of the above. A pretty loud crack ended my day before it really started. A2 pulley on right ring finger, probably a grade II / partial tear, so not good but not too bad in the grand scheme of things

Super stoked to flash this, moved onto some desperate imaginary mono while everyone screamed to use the jug just above but was too committed and just pulled through it

Nice high step mantle

Looks harder than it is, sharp but not actually that sharp either

The most scary send I have had in ages - WOOHOO!!

Step up on rocks that you don't want to fall on, jump to the nice jug (if you are a short arse like me), a little left crimp, then match your right foot to your hand and rock over and up.

I thought I was doing the Feeling of Presence but turns out to be a new problem, and yet another high quality problem on this ace little wall

Dig the moves on this

Super fun, with just the right amount of difficulty over the water

Nice, how come I've never done this?

Climbs better than I thought - very happy to do the start static (Carol jumped past this first move)

Scouted and cleaned it from the top for the first time and it looked so hard and scary from the top looking down. But it's a pure gem and quite easy

So glad this link up worked after we un-buried it from the flood debris

I thought this would be really spicy but the left side is too close. A wild hard sit start could be possible off a little crystal pocket

Last time I didn't actually climb this, and dismissed it but it is really great. I might have just been eyeing up more to the right and missed the two great holds further left

I remember being freaked out watching Ben on this but this time it just seemed like no big deal looking up at it. You absolutely do not want to fall but it might even be a V0.

Classic! Cruisy, scary, high, don't fall

Great warmup

Thought it would be more on the arete and very sketchy fall, ended up quite sane straight forward

Cruisy, a longer sequence than much of gara. Should be a few other problems just around the arete too

Had a couple laps trying to not get completely tangled at the top

Slighty pumpy fun crux

Fun fun fun

This is a great little find

Apparently I didn't use the good hands, or the good feet, or any footers

Still nursing a hand injury from the fall at the bungles so didn't intend to climb. Worth putting my shoes on

More or less a nice extension

Juicy

Easy fun

Didn't do the sit start, apparently I also went off route at the top (in a sea of jugs, jeez)

Approach shoes with no pad. Great hands

Slopey campus

Worked it with Ben and got it again. Very happy!

Woohoo!! Super stoked to send this. First attempt I tried a new sequence and stuck it, which unlocked it: right crimp, left big sloper, match, shift weight on right foot, right to crux sloper, then slab left to pinch sloper, twist into layback and high step left foot, then right hand up to dimple in the slab and stand up. Then another 5 or so attempts working the top sequence and then felt pretty easy linking it all. Awesome

Sick! First proper play on this I'd always thought it looked really hard. First attempt stuck the first 4-5 moves and knew it would go. Ticked it on 3rd or 4th attempt. Now I gotta work the linkup into 'fire in the hole'

Tommy Krauss showed me some beta which made this really easy, flash pumped on the mantle and got it second try. Stoked!

Tommy's beta of double knee bar didn't work so great for me, I keep them out with left toe flag on the roof and dead point the right hand.

As soon as I saw it, it had to be sent, it just looks fun. Thought I'd onsight it but it ended up a half hour siege before it got sent.

Very happy to repeat this gem.

Sweet! Felt a bit cheated with the knee bar which made it heaps easier

Loved this one, started out feeling impossible, chipped away at it inch by inch and finally sent it after an hour.

Did the easier variant first crack

Spent ages working this from the flat hold on, probably 20 attempts, with stylish shoulder, cheek and eyebrow smearing. Eventually found some class and sent it with delicate bridging.

I really liked this, lots of ok holds but no clear sequence so is more puzzle solving than hard.

Cool little problem, has bomber foot locks. I found the right heel a bit sketchy so just went direct.

warmup for main event